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Replacement uPVC Glazing units and Beading

  • 22-08-2018 11:41am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭


    So, after much frustration over the last winter and some very helpful assistance from a well recommended local window installer it appears i have possibly two issues with my ten year old ( not purchased by me) windows.

    The background !

    Casement uPVC, double glazed, all handles and hinges etc in good working order and sealing tight.

    It appears however, the beading is of poor quality, implementing only a single blade which compresses against the glass to prevent in bound air. :(
    I can somewhat confirm this is the case, as i've ( over last winter) sealed the units in sheeting, taped along the outside of each bead, and watched as over a short period of time, said sheeting inflate as if it we're a hot air balloon :(.

    Now i'm handy at most things, so cutting/ installing etc, not a huge issue, but sourcing is my real concern, if anybody has guidance on where to purchase, or how to measure/ identify the type of beading required i'd be only made up !

    Second portion ! as the unit's are double glazed, again I've been reliably informed that replacement triple glazed units could be installed, and the associated costs while not pittance are some what low, given the return.
    Assuming I measure up the glazing required, suggestions on where to order from would be super fantastic !


    Answers on a postcard ( pm ) I guess.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    Hi I am a glazier 20 years.and tbh I rarely come across bad PVC glazing beads.i am trying to understand your post and can possibly help.could you post some pictures of what you believe to be the problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    Hey Massy,

    I'll pop out a bead later on and snap some pics, the basic advice was the bead contained only a soft blade to compress against the glazing, where as the tear drop/ bubble applys more area of compression to prevent draught.

    I've attached a blade and bubble version ( at least my understanding of them)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Could be solved by different internal rubber? Assume they’re externally beaded?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Could be solved by different internal rubber? Assume they’re externally beaded?
    ye that was my thinking too or a glazing tape.there again if you where thinking of changing the glass you could get a thicker dg or tg unit.all options should push the glass closer to the beading and in turn compressing the rubber more to make a better seal


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Would be a bit mad replacing all those units if they’re otherwise ok.

    Given that windows are mass produced, as are the beads, it has to be an issue with the wrong wedge rubber or as you say the wrong glass.

    I can’t see it being the bead.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Could be solved by different internal rubber? Assume they’re externally beaded?

    I can only assume they are externally beaded also, Havent taken the big step of pulling out a section of glazing as of yet ..

    Where does the internal rubber section sit ?

    massy086 wrote: »
    ye that was my thinking too or a glazing tape.there again if you where thinking of changing the glass you could get a thicker dg or tg unit.all options should push the glass closer to the beading and in turn compressing the rubber more to make a better seal

    Changing the glazing is but an option, not really one i'd want to take up, as the windows are not even 10 years old, and while i dont expect them to be all signing all dancing, the quantity of cold air that breaches the frame is excessive.

    What section is the dg/tg ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,888 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    how about some pictures of the actual windows, as requested in post 2?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    how about some pictures of the actual windows, as requested in post 2?

    Yikes, thought it was a request for the types of beading 🙈

    Photography skills may not be up to spec, but can provide more .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Those look internally beaded to me. Any pics of the outside of the window please.

    If they are internally beaded, the exterior rubbers should be keeping the wind out, it’s possible these have shrunk over time. I’ve seen a good few windows where whoever assembled them cut the rubber to length and didn’t allow for shrinkage. It should be possible to see the gaps in the corners if this is the case.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    They are internally beaded.so wedge rubbers would not be an option.is it only opening windows that are mainly very draughty


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    massy086 wrote: »
    They are internally beaded.so wedge rubbers would not be an option.

    It might still be using external (not wedge obvs) rubber as opposed to tape though. The likes of Profile 22 for example could use either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    Attached a few there, full shot, the lower split, and a corner section.

    Hope that helps. I'm a touch lost on the lingo now already.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    massy086 wrote: »
    They are internally beaded.so wedge rubbers would not be an option.is it only opening windows that are mainly very draughty

    Just on this, no, the lower section as is draughty as the upper section. I've tested this by sealing off just said sections with tape + bag, and it inflated in no time


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    There’s a big gap in the top left corner anyway by the looks of it?


    Also, I’m not a doctor, but those drainage caps are upside down?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    There’s a big gap in the top left corner anyway.


    Also, I’m not a doctor, but those drainage caps are upside down?

    I'll blame the drainage caps on the wind so ..(nips out to rotate them all)

    I assume the next stop would be to identify the profile of them and see if I can buy some new ones to cut and install ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I’d be inclined to just seal up the corners and see what happens.

    (I’m not a glazer though, Massey086 will have the correct answer!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    In IMAG2724.jpg is that light colored strip on the outside a ruber


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    massy086 wrote: »
    In IMAG2724.jpg is that light colored strip on the outside a ruber

    Based on some poke testing it does appears to be a rubber


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I’d be inclined to just seal up the corners and see what happens.

    (I’m not a glazer though, Massey086 will have the correct answer!)

    Just had a look in a few other sections on other windows, and it appears to be almost peeling away from the glass a touch.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    Ok maybe see if you can remove one corner with a flat scraper or flathead screw driver


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    were the units ordered too thin and they used that ridiculously thick foam tape to fill the gap? There’s no way it’s meant to be like that?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    massy086 wrote: »
    Ok maybe see if you can remove one corner with a flat scraper or flathead screw driver

    Now of I attempt to remove this, are we export to slot back down inwards, it is on the external side of the windows #slightlynervious


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    Dr4gul4 wrote: »
    Now of I attempt to remove this, are we export to slot back down inwards, it is on the external side of the windows #slightlynervious
    Ah ya,ll be grand!!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    That looks like a treble glaze frame old treble was quite thick with a double window

    Are the double pane or single.?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    massy086 wrote: »
    Ah ya,ll be grand!!!!

    Indeed it was, however news is not good, they seem to be inserted into the inside of the frame also.

    Internal photo to follow


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    listermint wrote: »
    That looks like a treble glaze frame old treble was quite thick with a double window

    Are the double pane or single.?
    Can't be 100% sure but it looks to be one solid unit ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    Just a small nudge on this one to see if anybody has any wild follow up suggestions, like maybe, removing some glazing to have a proper look at said external rubber maybe :o .. or starting a small fire and claiming on the insurance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    Dr4gul4 wrote: »
    Just a small nudge on this one to see if anybody has any wild follow up suggestions, like maybe, removing some glazing to have a proper look at said external rubber maybe :o .. or starting a small fire and claiming on the insurance.
    I would remove the glass and from there see if the outside rubber was removable.and if so then post some pictures and I can try help you from there


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    massy086 wrote: »
    I would remove the glass and from there see if the outside rubber was removable.and if so then post some pictures and I can try help you from there

    One shall attempt said operation when the boss is not arround... And report back with photos


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    And we're back, with some possibly poor snaps, and some random codes.. the seal look to be in decent enough shape on the outside.. a touch perished perhaps, I'm more surprised to find all the screws on the internals frame ..altho perhaps this is the norm..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    Hi have you still got the glass removed??.if so can you measure the tickness of the dg unit.it will be either 24mm or 28mm.slso did the outer seal push back into place easily


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    massy086 wrote: »
    Hi have you still got the glass removed??.if so can you measure the tickness of the dg unit.it will be either 24mm or 28mm.slso did the outer seal push back into place easily

    Minor issue there, the unit has been reinstalled, however, I could have a go on my own to remove it in a day or so, my assistant was a touch nervous during the entire process.

    As for the seals, they came out of the channel with a little force, a small tug, and went back in smooth enough, seemed quite secure.

    Measurement to follow tomorrow prob.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭massy086


    Dr4gul4 wrote: »
    Minor issue there, the unit has been reinstalled, however, I could have a go on my own to remove it in a day or so, my assistant was a touch nervous during the entire process.

    As for the seals, they came out of the channel with a little force, a small tug, and went back in smooth enough, seemed quite secure.

    Measurement to follow tomorrow prob.
    The measurement is not majorly important.what I would say is possibly take out glass again and take a seal off the frame and then refit the glass.then if you are Dublin based I would head over to a company called national seals.there are just off the naas rd.and see can they supply you with a thicker seal maybe just 2-3mm bigger . If they don't have the exact seal ask them for some samples of wedge gasket.maybe try 6mm 8mm and 10mm.a wedge gasget will just push in after the glass Hass been fitted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    massy086 wrote: »
    The measurement is not majorly important.what I would say is possibly take out glass again and take a seal off the frame and then refit the glass.then if you are Dublin based I would head over to a company called national seals.there are just off the naas rd.and see can they supply you with a thicker seal maybe just 2-3mm bigger . If they don't have the exact seal ask them for some samples of wedge gasket.maybe try 6mm 8mm and 10mm.a wedge gasget will just push in after the glass Hass been fitted.


    Thank Massy, had a quick look on their www, I'll make the trip up mid week, not Dublin based but it's only an hour away..

    Really appreciate the advice


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