Made A Strat' for my son...Needs to be setup??

raspberrypi67

ok,

I built a Strat' for my younger son there about 14 months ago. I actually bought the neck, so only sourced a hardwood for the main body. I bought a plan and template for this and it was quite easy , for me anyway, I'm a woodworker anyway in my spare time so the building of the body etc was not a real problem.
I had done quite a bit of research on this type of electric guitar before I attempted anything as I wanted to see and learn the functions of a good electric guitar.

Just to mention, the reason I'm writing this is to ask what things I should be looking for here to set it up properly. They feel that it doesn't perform as well as it should. I wouldn't know as I know F-all about music. Having said that , I am an electronic technician so I do have a clue on the workings and how the sound is produced etc. I understand the mechanics.

Ok, here is the layout, NECK = Maple , Body is from Iroko
Pickups are single coil 'Wilsons' X 3

Cant remember the strings but I intend to get a new set of d'addario strings for stratocaster.

Can anyone who knows these guitars advise on how to set this up properly with the current way things are?
Thanks a lot...My sons will be happy...

Alanstrainor

I'd love to see some pictures of the guitar if you have any?

I presume there's no issues with tuning, and scale length of the neck etc? There's a lot of things that could make the guitar not play quite right. Provided the scale length is done correctly, then doing minor intonation adjustments to the bridge is important to make sure tuning is correct across the entire neck.

Then you have the action or string height. The neck should generally have a slight concave curve up. And should be adjusted with the truss rod. Lots of these adjustments will change with the gauge of string on the guitar too.

If the electrics work at all, I wouldn't worry too much about them being the cause of any issues. Once you get the guitar playing well when not plugged in, you can move onto the electrics. But I would guess that you have that done well anyway.

raspberrypi67

thanks for that. Yes, will have to do your first point, fret length.

I adjusted the truss rod yesterday with the curve in mind too...

String types, I'm getting new ones, which would you suggest ....?

I'll forward a few pictures tomorrow for you np.

Thanks for the information... I'll get them to do all the work...he he

Alanstrainor

raspberrypi67 wrote: »

thanks for that. Yes, will have to do your first point, fret length.

I adjusted the truss rod yesterday with the curve in mind too...

String types, I'm getting new ones, which would you suggest ....?

I'll forward a few pictures tomorrow for you np.

Thanks for the information... I'll get them to do all the work...he he

Strings are very much a personal preference, but to me at least I think a standard set of 10's would be a good start. Not too light, not too heavy. Just right. Obviously once strung up the neck will bow more, so there might need to be adjustment there once strung. There's plenty of relativity easy adjustments to make once you have the strings on. Intonation, action and neck. (The nut might need work too!). So spend a bit of time after stringing and see how you fair.

Best of luck, and I'd love to see some pictures!

raspberrypi67

Thanks for that info. I'll get the lads on it...

Heres a few photos....

Attachment not found.DSC_0089.JPG

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Strings are very much a personal preference, but to me at least I think a standard set of 10's would be a good start. Not too light, not too heavy. Just right. Obviously once strung up the neck will bow more, so there might need to be adjustment there once strung. There's plenty of relativity easy adjustments to make once you have the strings on. Intonation, action and neck. (The nut might need work too!). So spend a bit of time after stringing and see how you fair.

Best of luck, and I'd love to see some pictures!

raspberrypi67

I'm looking at strings but they mean nothing to me, I'm just the builder and I dont play. Know nothing about strings.

I'm on this website

https://lordofthestrings.com/en/brands/fender

So can you copy and paste what you'd recommend below. That would help me a lot

Many thanks. Hope you like the look of it...

feylya

https://lordofthestrings.com/en/guitar/electric/6-string/fender-350r-regular-350r-stainless-steel.html they'll do ya.

4068ac1elhodqr

Strings are largely irrelevant, as long as they are a brandname and new. 10/11 gauge (light-medium) are the most popular.

The wood/colour combo looks good, plenty of folks like (and some don't) the 'weathered' look, so might even be an idea to 'age' the body with sanding/burning to give fake signs of 'wear or aging'.
The P'ups aren't too special, but not too bad. A used pair of mid-high brand name may be an option.

High-end models usually have electrical insulation i.e. copper insulation behind the P'ups to reduce signal noise.
High-end models usually have brandname machine heads (tuners), these are a good investment to prevent constant re-tuning.
High-end models usually have fret polishing to ensure smooth and low action, and zero buzzing.

Ensure inotation on 12th fret matches open string (+1 octave), any music App can do this e.g. 'A' should read 440hz*.
* some folks prefer e.g. 423hz, very long story...

Long story short is a good looking unbranded guitar with good parts/features can triple it's value.

Also look at 'headless' models, suspect there is huge demand for these out there.
Last time I advertised a headless bass had emails from folks far and wide looking to buy it.

raspberrypi67

Thanks for all that great info. You're obviously a good player and know your stuff.
I'll be going to Waltons today with the sons.

What's a headless bass or guitar. They have several bases too. Was tempted to make one of these for the craic!!
I m actually interested in getting an acoustic guitar kit from Canada and putting it together.
Anyway, I'll keep you updated, you may be interested?.

Savannah Purring Opulence wrote: »

Strings are largely irrelevant, as long as they are a brandname and new. 10/11 gauge (light-medium) are the most popular.

The wood/colour combo looks good, plenty of folks like (and some don't) the 'weathered' look, so might even be an idea to 'age' the body with sanding/burning to give fake signs of 'wear or aging'.
The P'ups aren't too special, but not too bad. A used pair of mid-high brand name may be an option.

High-end models usually have electrical insulation i.e. copper insulation behind the P'ups to reduce signal noise.
High-end models usually have brandname machine heads (tuners), these are a good investment to prevent constant re-tuning.
High-end models usually have fret polishing to ensure smooth and low action, and zero buzzing.

Ensure inotation on 12th fret matches open string (+1 octave), any music App can do this e.g. 'A' should read 440hz*.
* some folks prefer e.g. 423hz, very long story...

Long story short is a good looking unbranded guitar with good parts/features can triple it's value.

Also look at 'headless' models, suspect there is huge demand for these out there.
Last time I advertised a headless bass had emails from folks far and wide looking to buy it.

4068ac1elhodqr

raspberrypi67 wrote: »

Thanks for all that great info. You're obviously a good player and know your stuff. I'll be going to Waltons today with the sons.

What's a headless bass or guitar. They have several bases too. Was tempted to make one of these for the craic!! I m actually interested in getting an acoustic guitar kit from Canada and putting it together. Anyway, I'll keep you updated, you may be interested?.

No value in acoustics, and very, very difficult to manufacture properly. One of the best acoustics I've played was a simple (Chinese made) Walden. Got used for 50notes and repaired. Spruce (Engelmann) top, gold hardware, rosewood back/sides etc... Left a 1k Martin for dust and 1/10th price.

Headless gtr/basses usually feature the 'steinberger' type tuning system, not 'tuning pegs'. As a result a 34' bass can be thrown in a bag and sometimes taken as cabin baggage on trans-atlantic flights. Zero chance of doing with a Stnd Fender jazz/precision due to the size of the awkward machine heads.

Imagine a custom made (fancy) one should see a few hundred at least:
A cheap alibaba kit one might just leave a very modest or small profit.

raspberrypi67

Wow, yeah , they look cool all right. Will have to show the lads.

We went into Waltons in blanch this afternoon and they had a look at the strat. Seemed quite impressed and changed the strings ( 10's as you suggested, he suggested the same!) and adjusted the truss rod also. Said it was fine after that. Lads played it on a large amp in there. Have to say, sounded quite good to me. The lads seemed to think there was a good difference after the minor surgery!!!
Yeah, like the headless bass myself. Would be a nice little project. Will have to look up more info on them...
As I've a fender template i,m thinking of doing a strat' body from Walnut. I've got a wide 2" solid piece in my shed I was keeping for something else but I my just go down the road with another custom type strat! American fender pickups?

What do you think?

Savannah Purring Opulence wrote: »

No value in acoustics, and very, very difficult to manufacture properly. One of the best acoustics I've played was a simple (Chinese made) Walden. Got used for 50notes and repaired. Spruce (Engelmann) top, gold hardware, rosewood back/sides etc... Left a 1k Martin for dust and 1/10th price.

Headless gtr/basses usually feature the 'steinberger' type tuning system, not 'tuning pegs'. As a result a 34' bass can be thrown in a bag and sometimes taken as cabin baggage on trans-atlantic flights. Zero chance of doing with a Stnd Fender jazz/precision due to the size of the awkward machine heads.

Imagine a custom made (fancy) one should see a few hundred at least:
A cheap alibaba kit one might just leave a very modest or small profit.

4068ac1elhodqr

raspberrypi67 wrote: »

Wow, yeah , they look cool all right. Will have to show the lads.

We went into Waltons in blanch this afternoon and they had a look at the strat. Seemed quite impressed and changed the strings ( 10's as you suggested, he suggested the same!) and adjusted the truss rod also. Said it was fine after that. Lads played it on a large amp in there. Have to say, sounded quite good to me. The lads seemed to think there was a good difference after the minor surgery!!!
Yeah, like the headless bass myself. Would be a nice little project. Will have to look up more info on them...
As I've a fender template i,m thinking of doing a strat' body from Walnut. I've got a wide 2" solid piece in my shed I was keeping for something else but I my just go down the road with another custom type strat! American fender pickups?

What do you think?

Mixed reviews on walnut, a heavier wood so good low-end (bass), but some say can be too scooped (no mid-tone eq) and bit dark. Only seen walnut on a bass (center line only). Best to check with a proper Luther.

There are also countless of strat's out there, unbranded, fakes and even some branded, fully loaded and still new cheap (the Vintage brad).

Picked up a dynamic Pignose travel guitar (with built in amp, gain & speaker!) last month. If you built something like that (certainly not easy, due to electronics) but made it headless, and built and additional neck pickup... Assuming it didn't breach any patents, could probably take it to DragonsDen then export it to mass market.

The full gain on the Pignose does feeeback better than a marshall stack turned to 11. Some foreign lad on utube plays it on a boat of all places in Canada: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgR6FGYEr9U

raspberrypi67

Yeah,

Your probably right, Re: the walnut. is a bit dark. I do like the ash body I see on some of the strats' though.
I know there's a lot of start bodies and kits out there as you said. You can pick up a machined head for about 80stg!
Saw the video , mad little yoke... .
Anyway, think I'll do another strat for the other Son. If he doesen't play it I'll sell it!!!