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Installing Jockey seat on rib

  • 24-04-2018 8:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37


    Hi all,

    I recently purchased a single Jockey seat. It was cut out of an old rib therefore no external/internal flange.

    I've been advised to fiberglass it to the. Boat floor or consider stainless steel L shaped brackets to fix it directly to boat floor.

    Any input in the approaches would be welcome.

    Kind Regards,

    Marc


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,584 ✭✭✭✭Steve


    Do you have any pictures you could post here?

    Fergal, our resident and award winning boat re-builder is sure to have some ideas!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 Marcevo190


    Steve wrote: »
    Do you have any pictures you could post here?

    Fergal, our resident and award winning boat re-builder is sure to have some ideas!

    Hi Steve,

    Photos of the boat with its current Jockey seat and pics of the new secondary seat should be available at this link:

    http://imgur.com/gallery/DO25PYk

    So far I've received quotes of 200-300 to. Glass it in behind the primary Jockey seat.

    I was think of mounting it to marine MDF using stainless steel L brackets and sika. Might be more economical!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,584 ✭✭✭✭Steve


    Personally, I'd mount some marine ply behind the existing jockey seat, cut so the new one fits over it snugly, glass over it and use L brackets to bolt it on. Is there any access below the cockpit floor to secure through bolts?

    As I said, Fergal is the guru when it comes to things with engines, I'm more of the sailing side of this forum :)


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,344 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Do you know how thick the floor is and if it has a plywood core. Fibreglassing would be the strongest and something you could do yourself although if you can get it done for €200 thats not a bad price €100 for parts and €100 for labour, another option would be to make a wooden frame of 2x4's that the seat would fit over glue "Sikaflex" and screw to the floor then screw or bolt the seat on along the bottom. Always make sure any screws going in the floor aren't long enough to go through the hull.





    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 Marcevo190


    fergal.b wrote: »
    Do you know how thick the floor is and if it has a plywood core. Fibreglassing would be the strongest and something you could do yourself although if you can get it done for €200 thats not a bad price €100 for parts and €100 for labour, another option would be to make a wooden frame of 2x4's that the seat would fit over glue "Sikaflex" and screw to the floor then screw or bolt the seat on along the bottom. Always make sure any screws going in the floor aren't long enough to go through the hull.





    .

    Hi Fergal, I don't know how thick the floor is, the Rib was manufactured by a company called Riptide who went out of business in the early 2000's and I've struggled to find any information on them.

    The 2x4 approach sounds like it could be the cheapest/easiest approach? Self tapering screws and sika the 2x4 box the floor, then L brackets on the inside of the Jockey seat (or no L brackets and just drill a hole through jockey/timber frameframe and nut/bolt it together?), reinforced with sika and then job done?

    Should marine ply be used to prevent water damage/fatigue? Or is caucing some sika around the Jockey sufficient?


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,344 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    You could use treated wood like the stuff used for decking or a hardwood if you can get it, you could use marine ply if you make blocks out of it you need to make sure your screwing into the face of the plywood and not into the laminations as they will just split and are not very good at holding screws, ideally I would cover the frame in fibreglass cloth it would be a good way of getting to know how to use fibreglass and it will be hidden out of the way. No harm to put sika around the jockey to make sure its sealed as Im sure you will be using it for storage.






    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 Marcevo190


    fergal.b wrote: »
    You could use treated wood like the stuff used for decking or a hardwood if you can get it, you could use marine ply if you make blocks out of it you need to make sure your screwing into the face of the plywood and not into the laminations as they will just split and are not very good at holding screws, ideally I would cover the frame in fibreglass cloth it would be a good way of getting to know how to use fibreglass and it will be hidden out of the way. No harm to put sika around the jockey to make sure its sealed as Im sure you will be using it for storage.






    .

    The million dollar question - how far can I screw in to the floor safely to secure the box :rolleyes:


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,344 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Very hard to tell from that photo, is the drain hole below deck maybe you could stick your finger in it or a bit of wire remember you will be a few inches each side of the hole where you are fixing the frame. If there are screws in the console maybe you could take one out and measure it.


    31248470_10208733583015295_5906177672404271104_n_zpsjv4szvzd.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 Marcevo190


    fergal.b wrote: »
    Very hard to tell from that photo, is the drain hole below deck maybe you could stick your finger in it or a bit of wire remember you will be a few inches each side of the hole where you are fixing the frame. If there are screws in the console maybe you could take one out and measure it.


    31248470_10208733583015295_5906177672404271104_n_zpsjv4szvzd.png

    In that picture the little screw/rubber bung is below deck. Good technique I'll give it a go!


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