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What's the best approach to cutting these logs ?

  • 10-04-2018 11:00am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭


    I have a few tree trunks in my garden and a few big Lumps of wood about 5 times larger than my fireplace.
    I can hit them with an axe all day long and only end up blunting the axe.
    My circular saw doesn't cut deep enough and my reciprocating saw isn't getting anywhere and just gets a expensive blade blunted fast . My hand saws take forever just to get a very small piece of fuel.

    What should I do ? Should I rent a consaw?

    I need to cut these into usable sizes and stack them away . Age and weathering hasn't even made the wood any softer..I have a metal saw horse . It's tough going to get a usable piece . I just want to invest my time elsewhere . What do people usually do ? I'm new to having a fireplace as my.gas fire was disconnected and removed recently


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,386 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    I have a few tree trunks in my garden and a few big Lumps of wood about 5 times larger than my fireplace.
    I can hit them with an axe all day long and only end up blunting the axe.
    My circular saw doesn't cut deep enough and my reciprocating saw isn't getting anywhere and just gets a expensive blade blunted fast . My hand saws take forever just to get a very small piece of fuel.

    What should I do ? Should I rent a consaw?

    I need to cut these into usable sizes and stack them away . Age and weathering hasn't even made the wood any softer..I have a metal saw horse . It's tough going to get a usable piece . I just want to invest my time elsewhere . What do people usually do ? I'm new to having a fireplace as my.gas fire was disconnected and removed recently

    Did you try a log splitter?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭masculinist


    Did you try a log splitter?

    No . I don't have one . How do they work ?. Are they expensive ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Provided there is no soil or stone embedded in the stumps the only way to go is a chainsaw.

    Green freshly cut wood normally splits a lot easier than old dried up stuff.

    Wedges may also be of some use to split up trunks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,399 ✭✭✭✭r3nu4l


    What length of logs do you have and what diameter are they?

    You can hire log splitters but you should really cut the lengths into useable sizes first, ideally with a chainsaw.

    I bought a cheap timberpro chainsaw with 20 inch bar and used it to cut hundreds of logs that I had and seasoned, then I the ace on to split them but a log splitter would be a lot quicker. You don't need a Husqvana or Stihl chainsaw for simple logging. If it was everyday use for years to come out would be worth investing in those.

    Search YouTube for log splitter videos and then call your local hire shop. What county are you in?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Isn't a consaw for concrete?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    If you have a decent sledge you can get wedges that do a mighty job on old hard rings.
    I have one and used it on some old hard softwood that had been sitting out in the sun and rain for a few years.
    It worked really well, you will find that once a ring is busted it will become a lot easier to split.
    Try hitting the edge of the ring with the axe rather then the middle.

    18191459_max.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭masculinist


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Isn't a consaw for concrete?

    If it can cut through concrete shouldnt it also slice through wood ? The large diameter of the disk would slice the logs easily unlike my circular saw.
    r3nu4l wrote: »
    What length of logs do you have and what diameter are they?

    You can hire log splitters but you should really cut the lengths into useable sizes first, ideally with a chainsaw.

    I bought a cheap timberpro chainsaw with 20 inch bar and used it to cut hundreds of logs that I had and seasoned, then I the ace on to split them but a log splitter would be a lot quicker. You don't need a Husqvana or Stihl chainsaw for simple logging. If it was everyday use for years to come out would be worth investing in those.

    Search YouTube for log splitter videos and then call your local hire shop. What county are you in?

    a few of the logs are 5 foot long . they vary from about 30 inches in diameter to large lumps of 40 inches.
    CJhaughey wrote: »
    If you have a decent sledge you can get wedges that do a mighty job on old hard rings.
    I have one and used it on some old hard softwood that had been sitting out in the sun and rain for a few years.
    It worked really well, you will find that once a ring is busted it will become a lot easier to split.
    Try hitting the edge of the ring with the axe rather then the middle.

    18191459_max.jpg

    I was actually thinking about getting a wedge . I havent seen them this year in Aldi where they usually turn up . Thats not to say they havent been there. I do have a good long handled sledge.


    I've never used a chain saw before. So picking one up involves an initial apprehension. However I'm well used to all sorts of other tools. I'm wondering how easily the chain saw could slip or the log could push it back at me. I suppose thats why safety gear exists and why I should probably keep it at arms length ?


    I have my eye on a stove which is slowly dropping from 500 euro at B&Q to its summer price of 250 or so ( I was away on vacation when the price went back up and missed my chance last year). Therefore there will be a lot of cutting logs in my future.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    What should I do ? Should I rent a consaw?

    Step away from all your tools.
    A consaw is for concrete, hence the name.

    You can't rent a chainsaw without training as far as I know.

    You need to get someone else to cut them up and then split them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    If it can cut through concrete shouldnt it also slice through wood ? The large diameter of the disk would slice the logs easily unlike my circular saw.
    The blade is designed for cutting concrete, not wood.
    a few of the logs are 5 foot long . they vary from about 30 inches in diameter to large lumps of 40 inches.
    I was actually thinking about getting a wedge.
    A length of 150cm wood is not suitable for a splitting wedge.

    I've never used a chain saw before. So picking one up involves an initial apprehension. However I'm well used to all sorts of other tools. I'm wondering how easily the chain saw could slip or the log could push it back at me. I suppose thats why safety gear exists and why I should probably keep it at arms length ?
    You need to be trained to use a chainsaw safely and properly. Safety gear is only for protection in emergencies.

    If you think you have a log of fire wood prepping if your future then invest in the training and safety gear. Chainsaw protection isn't cheap though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,386 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    Effects wrote: »
    Step away from all your tools.
    A consaw is for concrete, hence the name.

    You can't rent a chainsaw without training as far as I know.

    You need to get someone else to cut them up and then split them.

    I think you can rent the electric ones but anyway they are extra dangerous.

    Will your local council come and pick them up for a small fee?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    Did you try a log splitter?

    Was thinking this too. Similar to an axe but widens quick and splits better than an axe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,513 ✭✭✭Melodeon


    Rendering this sort of timber:
    a few of the logs are 5 foot long . they vary from about 30 inches in diameter to large lumps of 40 inches.
    ...into usable firewood is no small task, and is well into the realm of experienced/professional operators with suitable equipment.
    A saw fit to run a minimum 24" bar buried to the dogs in semi-seasoned timber, as this job would require, would run nicely into a four figure sum to buy. Add on the costs of the PPE required and the other tools and consumables, and you're heading past two grand real quick.
    All this is utterly unfeasible for domestic/home users.
    Even if you're willing to do the splitting yourself afterwards, getting someone with the proper qualifications, experience, insurance (most important!), and machinery to cut it into rings safely and quickly would probably cost more that buying an equivalent amount of processed firewood and leave the logs to go back to nature.

    I'd suggest you ring around your local tree surgeons and see what they say.
    This is the sort of thing they could fit in at the end of a short day at another local job, especially if you're not in a hurry to get them cut up.

    No commercial tool hire shop will hire out chainsaws of any kind. Their insurance providers have effectively banned it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭masculinist


    Effects wrote: »
    Step away from all your tools.
    A consaw is for concrete, hence the name.

    Can you not get a blade on the consaw that cuts wood ? Friction from a spinning blade would cut through wood easily as the wood is softer than concrete.,

    I think you can rent the electric ones but anyway they are extra dangerous.

    Will your local council come and pick them up for a small fee?

    why would I pay anyone to take away my firewood when I want to burn it to save money on heating ?

    Melodeon wrote: »
    No commercial tool hire shop will hire out chainsaws of any kind. Their insurance providers have effectively banned it.

    So I can purchase a chainsaw but I cant rent one ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,386 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    why would I pay anyone to take away my firewood when I want to burn it to save money on heating ?

    It might be cheaper to get it removed than the cost renting tools to cut it up.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    OP, its probably not worth it due to the cost of the tools but if you had at least 2 steel wedges (proper wedge shape) you could split the longer sections to save me confusing you this link explains it as well as I can https://www.timberyard.co.uk/single-post/2016/08/18/CLEAVING-NO2-SPLITTING-LARGE-LOGS .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭masculinist


    It might be cheaper to get it removed than the cost renting tools to cut it up.

    I'll have a stove now for the foreseeable future . I can get plenty of basically free wood . I wouldn't have to necessarily rent either . I can buy it . I can even buy it second hand in plenty of locations
    If I need a chainsaw license cert I can go get one . That's not a problem either


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭masculinist


    It might be cheaper to get it removed than the cost renting tools to cut it up.


    Ah but wheres the fun in that :pac:

    I never met a DIY job that was more stubborn than me :pac:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    I'll have a stove now for the foreseeable future . I can get plenty of basically free wood . I wouldn't have to necessarily rent either . I can buy it . I can even buy it second hand in plenty of locations
    If I need a chainsaw license cert I can go get one . That's not a problem either

    You don't need a chainsaw licence if you buy you own chainsaw. The Lidl/Aldi ones for around €100 are fine for occasional use.

    Safety is a big factor with them but so is chain sharpening.

    If you don't understand how the saw cuts, the need to keep it away from soil, stones etc and how to sharpen it then the whole experience can become very frustrating.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭masculinist


    my3cents wrote: »
    You don't need a chainsaw licence if you buy you own chainsaw. The Lidl/Aldi ones for around €100 are fine for occasional use.

    Safety is a big factor with them but so is chain sharpening.

    If you don't understand how the saw cuts, the need to keep it away from soil, stones etc and how to sharpen it then the whole experience can become very frustrating.

    Thanks . I know I don't need a license but I just want to assure anyone concerned that I'll treat it the same way I'd treat a loaded gun . With the utmost caution. If there's a small course in handling them I'd be very happy to take it as its purpose would be to benefit me.
    . I have a safepass and remember it being mentioned that different tools have different certifications which are handy enough to get .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,573 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    I wont use my chainsaws without chainsaw boots. Chainsaw trousers. Chainsaw gloves. Head ear face protection

    Just saying


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭masculinist


    I wont use my chainsaws without chainsaw boots. Chainsaw trousers. Chainsaw gloves. Head ear face protection

    Just saying

    That's good advice . I don't use many other tools without ear defenders and definitely never skip eye protection ever


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    There is great value in this machine
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00M9BBTT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    comes with toolkit bag and additional Chains too.


    Please please please purchase appropriate PPE though and take your time. Reason i say that is reading the consaw comment above. A consaw is an absolutel beast of a machine and you discussed it as it was a toy with wood blade options.



    #safetyfirstandlastandfirstagain


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭5T3PH3N


    Can you not get a blade on the consaw that cuts wood ?

    There may be specialist blades for for a consaw to cut timber but generally a consaw runs at about twice the rpm of a circular saw. If you did get a standard circ saw blade on a consaw, then I reckon it would be fairly dodgy as the tips would probably fly off.

    And a consaw is not just for concrete, there are rated abraisive discs to cut steel safely.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    40 inchs in diamenter . you will want a very big chainsaw. all in a good saw, safety gear, blades, shapening, etcetc. you will probably have spent 1000 euro.

    if i was you i would hire in someone to cut and split it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,099 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Op , if your going to cut the timber yourself, do a training course, then buy a secondhand Stihl or Husqvarna saw, I have never used the Chinese saws but I don't think they will cut big timber. Putting a toothed blade in a consaw would be lunacy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    40 inchs in diamenter . you will want a very big chainsaw. all in a good saw, safety gear, blades, shapening, etcetc. you will probably have spent 1000 euro.

    if i was you i would hire in someone to cut and split it.

    40 inches in diameter? Did I miss that bit


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Op , if your going to cut the timber yourself, do a training course, then buy a secondhand Stihl or Husqvarna saw, I have never used the Chinese saws but I don't think they will cut big timber. Putting a toothed blade in a consaw would be lunacy.

    All things considered he's not dropping trees , he is trimming and cutting logs . Buying second hand large saws is overkill unless he's using hen regularly. It's often thrown out comment on boards with little reality.

    The saw I linked will do what's required and do it well. Has full guarantee and has reviews coming out it's arse.

    It's fine for exactly this purpose and yes I agree I wouldn't be felling anything large with it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    listermint wrote: »
    40 inches in diameter? Did I miss that bit

    yes 30 - 40 inchs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,573 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    oh yes log splitters are great if you have alot of wood to split, i got an old version from these guys
    https://www.hartnett-products.ie/collections/log-splitters/products/7-ton-electric-log-splitter-with-a-frame-type-stand

    great job


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    listermint wrote: »
    All things considered he's not dropping trees , he is trimming and cutting logs . Buying second hand large saws is overkill unless he's using hen regularly. It's often thrown out comment on boards with little reality.

    The saw I linked will do what's required and do it well. Has full guarantee and has reviews coming out it's arse.

    It's fine for exactly this purpose and yes I agree I wouldn't be felling anything large with it

    for 85 you cant loose much money.
    thats 85 for the saw and 2 chains. crazy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,513 ✭✭✭Melodeon


    listermint wrote: »
    40 inches in diameter? Did I miss that bit

    Yep:
    a few of the logs are 5 foot long . they vary from about 30 inches in diameter to large lumps of 40 inches.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    oh yes log splitters are great if you have alot of wood to split, i got an old version from these guys
    https://www.hartnett-products.ie/collections/log-splitters/products/7-ton-electric-log-splitter-with-a-frame-type-stand

    great job

    i have the stand up version. its great . im going to sell it because it will only spilt upto 24" . we built a hydrolic one for the tracter.

    great company to deal with.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Melodeon wrote: »
    Yep:

    Right so . No chance that's huge. Your going to have to just burn your back yard down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    MAJJ wrote: »
    Was thinking this too. Similar to an axe but widens quick and splits better than an axe

    They won't work on a five foot log unless you are the hulk.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,094 ✭✭✭househero


    Where are you?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 461 ✭✭Czhornet


    A consaw cutting disc is 300mm diameter, half that exposed is 150mm and take a bit off for where it is mounted on to the saw at at most you will have is 100mm (4 inches) of cutting disc to work with. Even with a circular saw disc (which is a very bad idea) its not much good for a 40 inch diameter log!!
    Timber rings cut 10-12" long x 40" diameter can weigh up to 50kgs each, get someone with a chainsaw to cut into rings and 1/4 them with wedges, don't go bursting you back lifting timber that's too big and awkward, believe me , I done it for years and I got zero thanks for it only niggly pains


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Chainsaw chain and a consaw blade work in completely different ways, a consaw works by abrasion a chainsaw chain has lots of sharp teeth that slice and cut wood fibres like a chisel.
    Using a consaw on wood is likely to result in the wood getting hot and burning within a very small time due to friction, its pointless and dangerous.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭masculinist


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Chainsaw chain and a consaw blade work in completely different ways, a consaw works by abrasion a chainsaw chain has lots of sharp teeth that slice and cut wood fibres like a chisel.
    Using a consaw on wood is likely to result in the wood getting hot and burning within a very small time due to friction, its pointless and dangerous.

    Advice about safety with a consaw noted thanks .
    I've used many tools over the years . The only tools I haven't used much at all would be a consaw and a chainsaw . I know enough to assess how it performs and behaves and acquire the wisdom and knowledge of others before I start doing anything

    I managed to get enough wood for a few fires with a sledgehammer applied at weak points created by circular saw . Ill have enough time to prepare for next winter thankfully


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,218 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I've been looking at getting a Makita electric chainsaw for cutting up logs (don't like petrol tools that are only used occasionally), but the largest one (UC4051A) has a 40cm bar which will only do up to about a couple of feet diameter even with plunge cuts.

    4ft diameter logs are really enormous.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Lumen wrote: »
    I've been looking at getting a Makita electric chainsaw for cutting up logs (don't like petrol tools that are only used occasionally), but the largest one (UC4051A) has a 40cm bar which will only do up to about a couple of feet diameter even with plunge cuts.

    4ft diameter logs are really enormous.

    You can cut lengthways with a chainsaw, it needs a sharp chain and will produce long curly shavings but will work to cut a big log into quarters.
    Crosscut the quarters and flip the log around it to get the bar close to the chainbrake side.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,399 ✭✭✭✭r3nu4l


    ...then buy a secondhand Stihl or Husqvarna saw, I have never used the Chinese saws but I don't think they will cut big timber. Putting a toothed blade in a consaw would be lunacy.

    I have used a Chinese saw to cut logs of 32 inch diameter. I use a timberpro 62cc with 20 inch bar. As long as you know how to cut with a chainsaw, it's fine. You just have to work your way around the log and if you need to cut wedges out, to make more room, you do that.

    These saws are fine if you're only doing occasional work. The big names are best if you want something that you will use most days of the week for years on end, in a professional or semi professional manner.

    Can't emphasize enough though that safety gear is a must.


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