Reactive Dog Guardians

em_cat

I was wondering if there is/was a dedicated subthread in A&P for guardians of reactive dogs. I was thinking as a 1st time reactive dog mamma, it might be nice to have a place for us. I have seen posts in several sections where people (rightly so) go for a wee rant or just need advice or just to let it all out.

Maybe it's a bad suggestion or it isn't I don't know.

Over to you mods...

Cheers

em_cat

Cherry Blossom

I think you've just started said thread.

em_cat

Cherry Blossom wrote: »

I think you've just started said thread.

Thanks, that made me chuckle. I was wondering what it takes to make it a sticky? Or does it need to be a sticky???

DBB

Sorry, it's unlikely to become a sticky. We're meant to be reducing what we have as it is
As long as people reply to the thread, it'll stay on or near the front page

em_cat

Ahh, fair enough, I‘ll think of something to start it with....eventually.

VonVix

Love this thread idea. This is a great recourse for people who have reactive dogs but are not quite sure where to start or would like a guideline with how to handle reactivity: http://careforreactivedogs.com/

PoppedPopcorn

So happy this post exists

em_cat

+1 for the above link. I’ll be the first to say it, I often feel completely overwhelmed by it all.

ShaShaBear

One reactive doggo here (although nowhere near as reactive as my last doggo!)
Was very well socialised, met all sorts of people and dogs on his walkies from 4 months old when we got him and then at 1 year of age, he just lost it. He can be managed, but our last old boy used to work himself up into vomiting, he was so aggressively reactive to other dogs!

jellybear

As many on here will know our baby Milo is very reactive. Very similar situation to ShaShaBear. He was socialised, did agility classes, was great with people and dogs and then all of a sudden became very timid.
He was attacked quite badly in February by a large off lead and unaccompanied dog and it was very upsetting, for both of us to be honest. Since then he's had at least 4/5 more dogs run at him and attack him. It's absolutely infuriating and heartbreaking.
It's very difficult being the owner of a reactive dog and I have to say we are very lucky in that our neighbours and people in our estate know him now and are so understanding and kind.

em_cat

jellybear wrote: »

As many on here will know our baby Milo is very reactive. Very similar situation to ShaShaBear. He was socialised, did agility classes, was great with people and dogs and then all of a sudden became very timid.
He was attacked quite badly in February by a large off lead and unaccompanied dog and it was very upsetting, for both of us to be honest. Since then he's had at least 4/5 more dogs run at him and attack him. It's absolutely infuriating and heartbreaking.
It's very difficult being the owner of a reactive dog and I have to say we are very lucky in that our neighbours and people in our estate know him now and are so understanding and kind.

Milo is so terribly cute. It’s really hard to imagine sometimes.

I often feel like I totally misread Mr C’s reactivity and seems like his triggers change day to day. Sometimes I write a small description of our walks to see if I can sort of pin point triggers.

Right now I am are trying to figure out if he has dog to dog reactivity due to hyperarousal or is it fear based.

Does anyone put yellow ribbons on their lead when they are out to signal that he/ she needs space? If so do other people totally ingnore it?

Infuriating & Heartbreaking is very apt....

Esel

Never knew about the yellow ribbons thing.

jellybear

Awh I'm glad you like Milo, he's our little divil!

I muzzle him when I walk him which helps hugely, people give him a bit more space. I've seen leads, collars and high vis vest online that have messages on them to say the dog is nervous/reactive. The yellow ribbon is great but I'm not sure how many people know what it means so maybe a more 'obvious' way of letting people know could work

Another guardian to a reactive dog here. I agree that it can be very overwhelming. Some days I just feel like a total failure. I love my Animals so much and I try so hard to give them the best lives. Hiros fear of other dogs creates so much stress for him and I hate that I haven't been able to conquer it.

I suppose for me the biggest issue is the timing of his reactions. In an ideal world I would reward him when the other dog was but a dot in the distance and keep rewarding for as long as he was calm and comfortable and work on extending his comfort zone all the time.

Unfortunately Hiro loses his sh*t before he even sees the dog. If he smells a dog in the distance, hears a bark in the distance or indeed sees any shape appear on the horizon, regardless of how far away and even if it turns out to be a bush or a man or whatever, he freaks out and warns off whatever it is, just in case. So I don't really get the opportunity to reward at all.

I had mild success with walking in an area where dogs were strictly to be kept on lead. After passing countless dogs over countless weeks and all being on short leads and therefore unable to invade his space, he seemed to begin to calm a little. Nothing bad was happening to him and his barking got less extreme and he was making real progress. And of course then several people started showing up with boisterous offlead dogs and in a heartbeat all our work was undone. The frustration and despair I felt.

Sorry this is so long. It's nice to get it off my chest and know I'm not alone. Great idea for a thread em cat.

BTW I read the click to calm book and found it very good. It helped me to see that his nerves extended to other things. One big thing I've been tackling is his fear of eye contact. For example he always sits and waits for his dinner until he's told to take it but he only looks at the bowl. To help with his aversion to eye contact, Ive been waiting for him to look me in the eye and hold the look before allowing him to eat. It's worked really well and hes much quicker to look right at me now in all sorts of other scenarios. I'm hoping little changes like this will help with his over all confidence.

jellybear

Awh BuileBeag I never realised how similar your dogs reactions are to Milo's. I also have issues with even getting a chance to reward him as he reacts so quickly. He also has a big issue with people looking at him so will definitely try out the eye contact with him at home.

jellybear

jellybear wrote: »

Awh BuileBeag I never realised how similar your dogs reactions are to Milo's. I also have issues with even getting a chance to reward him as he reacts so quickly. He also has a big issue with people looking at him so will definitely try out the eye contact with him at home.

It's hard isn't it. Everything says to reward when they first see the other dog before the barking starts and build on that but what if you don't even get that opportunity!?

Hiros funny. He's so affectionate and he just loves sitting on my lap for a cuddle. But if I look at him, he immediately turns his face away. If I ask for a kiss he'll get all shifty but if I turn my face to the side, he'll immediately lick my cheek. He's much improved now though. So I'll pick another little issue to work on and slowly work on his confidence and build up to the reactivity I think.

honeybear

Great thread-tbh, I think I’m the main reason for my dogs shenanigans.

VonVix

Deleted User wrote: »

It's hard isn't it. Everything says to reward when they first see the other dog before the barking starts and build on that but what if you don't even get that opportunity!?

With reactive dogs I have handled, I find the best way to handle that kind of situation is say "lets go!" and jog away from the trigger, if the dog I am handling remains focused on the other dog, I usually add a high pitched "quickquickquick!" and then once s/he isn't reacting towards the trigger, I give lots of praise/reward. I try to be exciting so 'my' dog is more interested in me.

My GSD is reactive of sorts, not fear reactive, but enthusiastic-reactive, he is mad about certain dogs (usually Boxers/Golden Retrievers/Staffies/Brachy dogs, he loves dogs that are wiggly and obviously enthusiastic about greeting him), but when you see a big bouncy GSD most people get the wrong idea.

jellybear

VonVix wrote: »

With reactive dogs I have handled, I find the best way to handle that kind of situation is say "lets go!" and jog away from the trigger, if the dog I am handling remains focused on the other dog, I usually add a high pitched "quickquickquick!" and then once s/he isn't reacting towards the trigger, I give lots of praise/reward.

Thats great to hear because that's what I do too and it does seem to work well.
It's tough with people though because Milo is quite handsome (if I do say so myself!! ) and people are naturally curious about him. Sometimes he's fine and other times he freaks out and becomes very reactive. It's terrible really as I love a good chat but most of the time he's having none of it and starts barking and growling at whoever I'm speaking too even though no one's ever done anything to him. I've tried getting the person I'm speaking to give him treats etc but it doesn't seem to help

em_cat

Esel wrote: »

Never knew about the yellow ribbons thing.

Neither had I until Mr C. I know the Yellow Dog Project has been around for a good bit, and I know we have the Yellow Dog Ireland FB, but the www.yellowdogproject.com is an international movement which has been going for a few years I think.

I don’t really have the confidence, in our area at least, that many people would understand as 90% of people walking dogs let them walk 5 meters in front of them.

VonVix

VonVix wrote: »

With reactive dogs I have handled, I find the best way to handle that kind of situation is say "lets go!" and jog away from the trigger, if the dog I am handling remains focused on the other dog, I usually add a high pitched "quickquickquick!" and then once s/he isn't reacting towards the trigger, I give lots of praise/reward. I try to be exciting so 'my' dog is more interested in me.

Would this not make them think you're running away from the other dog. Like there is something to fear so quick let's get away?

Would you let the person pass you out then from behind and turn back or keep going the opposite way? If theres a dog behind us or we pass a dog out, Hiro keeps spinning his head round and barking away.

VonVix

jellybear wrote: »

Thats great to hear because that's what I do too and it does seem to work well.
It's tough with people though because Milo is quite handsome (if I do say so myself!! ) and people are naturally curious about him. Sometimes he's fine and other times he freaks out and becomes very reactive. It's terrible really as I love a good chat but most of the time he's having none of it and starts barking and growling at whoever I'm speaking too even though no one's ever done anything to him. I've tried getting the person I'm speaking to give him treats etc but it doesn't seem to help

I know what you mean, I find lots of GSD-walking people want to stop and chat to me, but my fella is quite intimidated by dogs with pricked ears like fellow GSDs/Huskies/etc! Many of the ones he has met haven't greeted him too kindly or have come 'at' him too intensely for his liking, he prefers wiggly dogs.
Largely I walks, I make a point of NOT having him greet other dogs, but it's very difficult when you have people with dogs loose off leash. :rolleyes:

I generally discourage people trying to get their dog to take treats directly from someone who makes them uncomfortable. In many ways you are skipping an important step to try and have him relaxed in a situation he doesn't feel relaxed in. You are better off letting your dog take treats from you instead. Get him to do something else, like a sit (which can be awkward for some Lurcher-types, I know) or a down, and toss treats to him on the ground.

jellybear

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Would this not make them think you're running away from the other dog. Like there is something to fear so quick let's get away?

That's a good point actually. It's so hard to know what's best isn't it? I suppose I do that because if I don't and I continue to walk towards the other dog all hell will break loose so I need to get him away and by keeping it fun and high pitched he doesn't sense my fear.

VonVix

Deleted User wrote: »

Would this not make them think you're running away from the other dog. Like there is something to fear so quick let's get away?

Would you let the person pass you out then from behind and turn back or keep going the opposite way? If theres a dog behind us or we pass a dog out, Hiro keeps spinning his head round and barking away.

I generally keep my mood upbeat, I have found it works quite well in keeping a dog wanting to focus on me. I find it more important to gain distance from the trigger rather than have him/her linger in the presence of something scary too long if we're too close. I really don't like letting a dog rehearse behaviours that I'm trying to 'get rid' of, so to speak, so limiting the opportunity for them to react is a point I try to make. Hopefully that makes sense.

jellybear

VonVix wrote: »

I generally discourage people trying to get their dog to take treats directly from someone who makes them uncomfortable. In many ways you are skipping an important step to try and have him relaxed in a situation he doesn't feel relaxed in. You are better off letting your dog take treats from you instead. Get him to do something else, like a sit (which can be awkward for some Lurcher-types, I know) or a down, and toss treats to him on the ground.

Awh sorry I probably worded it wrong... I'll always give him his treat first, he gets peanut butter from an old canigest tube but I'll then offer them a go too (particularly when I can sense he's nervous)...maybe I shouldn't though..so tough to know what's going to work best as I know walking away is probably the best option but sometimes it's not possible and I also want to try to make him more comfortable I think the muzzle is also part of the problem as he probably feels he can't react if he senses or thinks he needs to, but to be honest I wouldn't walk him without it so it's a real catch 22.

Yeah that makes perfect sense. I suppose I should really do at least for now because he is just rehearsing the behaviour at this stage. We have certain places we go, knowing that it will either be dog free or very few dogs around. So he gets loads of stress free excersing and stimulation. But when we do meet the occasional dog he is just repeating the same behaviour over and over so I need to break it up and do something new.

Bells21

Has anyone looked the BAT 2.0 program? I've just started reading it and it has protocols for different issues. Once I get my head around it I hope to be able to use it effectively for one of ours. He can be quite reactive when certain people come into our house, especially the hallway for some reason. I have to keep him on a lead or else in a different room but this causes him more stress because he can't see/sniff.

VonVix

jellybear wrote: »

Awh sorry I probably worded it wrong... I'll always give him his treat first, he gets peanut butter from an old canigest tube but I'll then offer them a go too (particularly when I can sense he's nervous)...maybe I shouldn't though..so tough to know what's going to work best as I know walking away is probably the best option but sometimes it's not possible and I also want to try to make him more comfortable I think the muzzle is also part of the problem as he probably feels he can't react if he senses or thinks he needs to, but to be honest I wouldn't walk him without it so it's a real catch 22.

I think it's one of those things, you have to think about how important it is to you personally to have him greet strangers. He, as a dog, doesn't NEED to greet strangers. If you regard it as important, I'd try and see if you could set up some roleplay situations with familiar people (to him), where you stand a chat to a person for a few moments, give him a treat, let them give him a treat, walk on and repeat.

You'd be better off getting him to take a treat when you sense he *isn't* nervous rather than when he is. Sometimes you need to build a positive history where he is rewarded for good behaviour (or simply sitting there doing nothing, which is better than the alternative) in mundane situations with predictable people/dogs before a dog can start to progress to the tougher stuff.

em_cat

This is great, I knew I wasn’t alone in all of this. And massive thanks to everyone who is posting.

Currently Mr C is the:

I see you dog so you have to come to me or I’ll growl/snarle/bark my little head off, but hey if I trip my mamma she’ll let go of me and I’ll come sniff your bum, weather or not you like it!

I’n not really able to jog or run, RBKA, but I sure can walk pretty fast while begging Mr C to leave it, go this way etc. BTW, he’s a rescue who was fostered with other dogs and so indoors toatally ok with other dogs.

Also he is very affectionate and absolutely loves trick training and playing with his toys as long as we are indoors.

And yes I too, sometimes feel like I’m failing him.

shakencat

I've a well socialised, trained, happy Rottweiler who played off lead no problems!


Turns 2 - dislikes every dog when on lead!! People tell me it's a maturity phase ?


my lord, I hate those stretchy dog leads, and people with little dogs who visibly see Ralph broaden, and get larger, Huffing and puffing! but fail to keep their dog close

Also the people who stop to say
"jeez he's gorgeous "
Me: "yeah, he is, he's just not too happy when dogs sniff his bum... "
Queue them.. telling me ah, my dogs grand he/she won't do anything.
And im trying to move on out of the situation!!

I make Ralph sit and wait until the other walks by, 99% he stays calm and just watches, on edge mind you!!

I just wish he could tell me what's making him anxious!!


Oh
Also, seems to me, their dog is allowed bark-but if Ralph does, he's vicious and they look so shocked! (He only barks when really stressed)

*Sigh*

shakencat

shakencat wrote: »

I've a well socialised, trained, happy Rottweiler who played off lead no problems!


Turns 2 - dislikes every dog when on lead!! People tell me it's a maturity phase ?


my lord, I hate those stretchy dog leads, and people with little dogs who visibly see Ralph broaden, and get larger, Huffing and puffing! but fail to keep their dog close

Also the people who stop to say
"jeez he's gorgeous "
Me: "yeah, he is, he's just not too happy when dogs sniff his bum... "
Queue them.. telling me ah, my dogs grand he/she won't do anything.
And im trying to move on out of the situation!!

I make Ralph sit and wait until the other walks by, 99% he stays calm and just watches, on edge mind you!!

I just wish he could tell me what's making him anxious!!


Oh
Also, seems to me, their dog is allowed bark-but if Ralph does, he's vicious and they look so shocked! (He only barks when really stressed)

*Sigh*

Ive gotten that attitude many times. Like your dog is the one with the problem! Yeah I know he has problems, that's why i have him on a short lead in an area where dogs are supposed to be on leads. Your dog is also a problem, because he's not on lead and he's not returning when you call him and he is all up in our personal space!!!! Argh!

Sometimes when Hiro is upset and I'm trying to just move him swiftly past the person and their dog, that person will stop walking and wait for us to walk past them. It's really intimidating and makes the whole moment last so much longer than if we both just walked quickly past each other.

VonVix

shakencat wrote: »

I've a well socialised, trained, happy Rottweiler who played off lead no problems!

Turns 2 - dislikes every dog when on lead!! People tell me it's a maturity phase ?

I've seen this happen a lot. A lot, a lot. Great, social dogs when young, hit 2 and bam, suddenly opinionated.

I heard an analogy relating to this... it's like people when we are young, friends with everyone and anyone. But as adults, we don't make friends just about with anyone, we prefer people we know, trust and form bonds with. We become more selective about who we closely interact with.

em_cat

Well, Mr C is one of those little dogs, not miniature, both Mr C & I are a little frieghtened of the “ankle biters” as one of the local kids call them that go berserk.

I feel sorry for the “ankle biters” though too.

I’m incredibly embarrassed that Mr C has his ‘episodes’ and more so embarrassed that I get so anxious about it & then feel completely helpless.

I always feel a bit sad for people with large breeds who have to deal with ignorance.

As my Nan use to say, there’s no excuse for ignorance, but sometimes stupidity can’t be cured.

Where I live there are a lot of staffi mix, Akitas, Goldens, Huskie, boxers, labs, GSD, different types of Terrier mixes and a feck load of JRTs and then the ‘instadogs’...

Since we’ve had Mr C I’ve been doing my best. I do have a couple of the lads around who have bigger dogs that are working with us to desentise Mr C & at the same time their pooches are benefiting from some training.

We too have the same issue with the retractable leads. Our Mr C is kept at heel, mostly on the left as I’m a RBKA and don’t want to accidentally step on him.

shakencat

em_cat wrote:

Where I live there are a lot of staffi mix, Akitas, Goldens, Huskie, boxers, labs, GSD, different types of Terrier mixes and a feck load of JRTs and then the ‘instadogs’...

Now now, Ralph is an insta dog :P


here ye are!

https://www.instagram.com/rottie_ralph/

em_cat

shakencat wrote: »

Now now, Ralph is an insta dog :P


here ye are!

https://www.instagram.com/rottie_ralph/

He’s certainly a beaut! I only call certain dogs instadogs, it’s more of a comment on their owners tbh...we also call them hipstadogs... & again it’s a comment on the owners.

But I really wanna see the shaken cat;)

em_cat

jellybear wrote: »

gets peanut butter from an old canigest tube

We tried this with Mr C today. The pb kept ending up on his head or the ground & then walking through it...then I walked into a street pole...

I’d heard of people using a long wooden spoon, but that frightened Mr C.

Well at least he spent the majority of the time confused or trying to lick his paws while walking.

jellybear

Awh peanut butter is so messy!! We only use it cause the nozzle fits through his muzzle so it's the only thing that works for us

em_cat

jellybear wrote: »

Awh peanut butter is so messy!! We only use it cause the nozzle fits through his muzzle so it's the only thing that works for us

I make our pb cause I can’t stand sugary pb so ours is a bit goopy. My hubby absolutely detests the stuff. So I had to give Mr C a bath after, yet he still smells deliciously peanut buttery nom nom nom...

Have to say though today’s weather made for a great reactive dog walk though. We didn’t come across a single one, but returned soaking wet....

em_cat

em_cat wrote: »

Have to say though today’s weather made for a great reactive dog walk though. We didn’t come across a single one, but returned soaking wet....

Ah yes, I'm familiar with this type of walk. "Look it's lashing rain, freezing cold and windy as feck.. quick let's walk the dog while no ones around!"

em_cat

Ok, had a look at BAT 2.0. I’m a researcher so i’ve a habit of speed reading & then make bullet points for comprehension....

The gist is to set up ‘scenarios’ that are very similar to your dogs triggers, but set them so there’s enough of a change so that the dog can slow down and create a new more positive association with said trigger. It involves marking and moving on.

I understand how this works and have witnessed it in process but there seems to be a major flaw, for us at least.

We live in the city centre & neither my husband or I currently drive. We’re lucky that Mr C is quite happy in his hidey hole travel bag, it was the 1st thing we trained him on as I travel and Mr C goes with or to hubby’s office via taxi, bus or LUAS.

Also AFAIK there isn’t some dog training centre that has the space & experienced staff members who are qualified to teach & or train using BAT 2.0. I’m not saying it won’t work or be helpful but I worry because it seems to require a certain willingness that I haven’t seen in canine training centres here.

Bear in mind I’m coming from a reactive guardian perspective and I have yet to meet a canine Behaviorist who successfully uses this method. If there are some out there I would love to find out who and where they are.

Please, if anyone can expand on this I would certainly appreciate it, the well-being of our precious reactive pets need all the love, care and help we can give them!

DBB

I dunno em_cat. There are some really super trainers and behaviourists around the place... You may not have met them, but that doesn't mean they're no out there!
BAT is not a new concept by any means. Like a lot of training methods and approaches, it was being used in some form or another by many trainers and behaviourists long before Grisha Stewart came along and put a name on it. No disrespect to her, her work is great. But it's nowt new.

Seems to me a few posters here are on the right track with how they're dealing with their dogs' reactivity... But there may be some nuances missing. Maybe they're not, but I haven't seen any posts mentioning using, say, a clicker or verbal marker to mark a tiny moment of acceptable behaviour before moving the dog away from the situation... That's what BAT is... It's not just moving him away, it's moving him away in return for him showing some semblance of acceptable behaviour in a watered-down situation that normally causes reactivity.
And then the dog gets his treat... Once he's moved away, has felt the rush of relief, and is now in a position to accept a treat.
BAT has its detractors of course, because it utilises negative reinforcement to work, and "positive" trainers don't like to use too much negative reinforcenent. But this is overlooked by people, because it works well when utilised properly and with real understanding of why the dog is actually learning what we hope he's learning when we use techniques like BAT!

em_cat

DBB wrote: »

I dunno em_cat. There are some really super trainers and behaviourists around the place... You may not have met them, but that doesn't mean they're no out there!
BAT is not a new concept by any means. Like a lot of training methods and approaches, it was being used in some form or another by many trainers and behaviourists long before Grisha Stewart came along and put a name on it. No disrespect to her, her work is great. But it's nowt new.

I totally get that & was aware that BAT isn’t new as such, in fact I can remember using very similar techniques with some of my previous dogs 15 + years ago. There are several of the BAT techniques that I use as standard when training my dogs, btw I’m not a trainer, just my own.

It’s just 2.0 was mentioned in an earlier post so read Grisha’s ebook. I then went through the after behaviourist home visit training paper work schedules, of which we a few from different trainer/ Behaviourists, and compared their methods with the BAT 1.0, 2.0 and then read the science behind it all.

My point was simply whether or we have the facilities somewhere in the country that is accessible by all modes of traffic, that the BAT 2.0 could be applied in terms of what Mr C needs.

We have to do all of our training either indoors, our communal gardens or city streets.

And as you said, I have no doubt that there are some fabulously qualified experienced people out there, it could be I’ve not found them yet. I also suppose because this is the first time I’ve had a reactive dog it’s pretty new to me. So much that I got a full CBC & Thyroid check just ‘to rule out’ and if needed we will have hormonal and chemical balances checked.

I’m probably just panicking though....

DBB

Ciara d'Arcy of The Dog Den in Raheny does reactive dog classes:
https://thedogden.ie/dog-training/reactive-class/
Ciara is an excellent trainer and behaviour specialist.

Probably too complicated to get to? Also in big demand, but one of the very best there is, Emmaline Duffy-Fallon does reactive dog classes in Sharpshill, Co. Wicklow. http://www.citizencanineireland.com

There are also a number of behaviourists who do one-to-one in the dog's own environment, because it's absolutely recognised that when working with reactive dogs in the real world, you've got to learn to use the real world around you as a training venue. Emmaline does house calls in Dublin.
There's Iza Arrieta of the InterPeter [URL] http://www.theinterpeter.com[/URL], covers Dublin.
There's Suzi Walsh, formerly of Positive Dog Training https://www.dogbehaviour.ie

Just a few there to get you going around Dublin, but there are more if you look, who like the above have specific training, experience and CPD behind them.

deadlybuzzman

For anyone that's having a hard time with a reactive dog I thought I'd share my experience of meeting a reactive dog a few times and how each interaction was so much better than the previous one.
About 2 years ago we met a Rescued 1 eyed American Bulldog, as the dog was a tough looking rescue dog, people would presume it lost its eye in a fight. Actually the dog had been utterly neglected and locked away in isolation and lost it due to an infection.
Anyway this big scary (I'll admit at the time the dog did scare me quite a bit) was very eager to try and get at our dog and not in a friendly way but the family that had her didn't have her long and the training was only starting.
Fast forward 8 months and the two dogs met again at agility training and the bulldog was still a bit twitchy but our dog bowed down and the Bulldog relaxed alot.
Fast forward to last Xmas and our 2 dogs were playmates in the local boarding kennels getting on brilliantly!
Weirdly from behind they looked almost identical!
I just thought I'd share that story for anyone out there that is having a hard time at the moment, stick at it!

em_cat

Thanks all, I’ve left a message for Ciara at the dog den as the LUAS/DART will get us there, also can organise a taxi.

So far the Behaviorist experiences we’ve with Mr C have only been in the home, and some things have improved remarkably, but as mentioned in an earlier post, real world experience is also needed.

TBH, I would have loved to send myself & Mr. C to Emmalaine in Wicklow, it seems like my idea of heaven. My other half kindly pointed out that it wouldn’t have been fair to him though as we hadn’t had a holiday in over 3 yrs & he would’ve starved.....

DBB

em_cat wrote: »

TBH, I would have loved to send myself & Mr. C to Emmalaine in Wicklow, it seems like my idea of heaven. My other half kindly pointed out that it wouldn’t have been fair to him though as we hadn’t had a holiday in over 3 yrs & he would’ve starved.....

To be fair, in case anyone reading this gets the wrong impression, Emmaline isn't any more expensive than any other behaviourist, indeed is cheaper than many.
What I think you may be referring to is her residential in (her) home training, which is for the dog to stay over, not the owner! Board-and-train, when done properly on a one-to-one basis as Emmaline does it, means the dog is living in her home, getting her undivided attention and vast, vast knowledge and experience all day long, for not much more than someone would pay an unqualified trainer to board their dog in a kennel, and get one hour of training a day often using questionable methods.
I just want to clarify here that whilst such a specialised service costs money, her behavioural consultations and training classes are as good value as one can get for one of the top people in Ireland's industry

em_cat

DBB wrote: »

To be fair, in case anyone reading this gets the wrong impression, Emmaline isn't any more expensive than any other behaviourist, indeed is cheaper than many.
What I think you may be referring to is her residential in (her) home training, which is for the dog to stay over, not the owner! Board-and-train, when done properly on a one-to-one basis as Emmaline does it, means the dog is living in her home, getting her undivided attention and vast, vast knowledge and experience all day long, for not much more than someone would pay an unqualified trainer to board their dog in a kennel, and get one hour of training a day often using questionable methods.
I just want to clarify here that whilst such a specialised service costs money, her behavioural consultations and training classes are as good value as one can get for one of the top people in Ireland's industry

Yep, I was talking about Emmaline’s residential stay, I would happily pay triple just for me to get trained;)

I’m not sure how feasible it would be for me to get out to Pamela’s Park. I don’t know anything about the aforementioned dog park, but I also have an inherent distaste for dog parks in general.

One of the main things we struggle with is we had been told he’s not good with kids & is great with dogs, turn that 180 and that’s what we have.

Not only is he brilliant with kids, he likes playing with them & being surrounded by them.

Out doors he tolerates other dogs his size, off lead only and on lead only if they aren’t pulling towards him, which is almost never. He has gotten to know & somewhat trust a couple of other dogs, 3 to date. There is only 1 big dog he likes.

He’s always on lead as we live in the city & he’s way to panicked to have any recall anyway.

As far as leash skills, his foster parents did a fantastic job with those and we reinforce those every day. He took to walking to heel with a loose lead very easily and is consistent. He almost always will stand on command when we stop. He doesn’t pull towards other dogs as long as we are a certain distance away even if they are bouncing all over the place. Because he walks at heel he never goes around corners before me. Which was really difficult to get him to trust me enough to do that. He will do a look at me, but not automatically he still has to be treat trained, which does not help his pancreatic insufficiency, don’t know if it’s genetic or induced by his first owner, but is under control thanks to puréed pumpkin.

But then again, my hubby only really gets go see Mr C when he’s at his best, which is worn out, pooped and full....

Today we had a relatively positive walk that wasn’t all about training so I count that a small victory!!!!

Bells21

We have used a clicker previously. We had a horse in the field that kind alongside our house and the horse loved sticking its head in over the lowest part of the wall which our fella did not like one bit. We would have barking and dashing up and down the length of the wall. We got a professional in. We introduced the clicker and then outside while he was on a lead and under threshold we clicked and rewarded when he turned away from the horse, made eye contact with us or have another acceptable behaviour and we gradually reduced the distance and then used a long line to increase our distance away from him while still looking for similar behaviours.
I looked at BAT recently as 1 I didn't know what it was and 2 I was looking for a way to deal with a new behaviour we're dealing with. We have a GSD next door that loves prowling the fence growling and snarling and often stands on hind legs over the wall doing the same. We had put a brushwood screen over the fenced part to block and little visual stimulus that our fella was reacting too. But once he hears or smells the dog next door he begins running up and down the length of the fence and even pulling bits of the brushwood off. It's a hard one when our neighbors aren't bothered doing anything with their dog so at the moment our lad has to stay on lead in our garden if we know that dog is loose in its garden.
Sometimes it feels like a whack a mole game. You get one thing on an even keel or to a point that ensures you and your dog are happy/safe/not stressed and then another thing pops up that needs attention.

Bells21

Bells21 wrote: »

We have used a clicker previously. We had a horse in the field that kind alongside our house and the horse loved sticking its head in over the lowest part of the wall which our fella did not like one bit. We would have barking and dashing up and down the length of the wall. We got a professional in. We introduced the clicker and then outside while he was on a lead and under threshold we clicked and rewarded when he turned away from the horse, made eye contact with us or have another acceptable behaviour and we gradually reduced the distance and then used a long line to increase our distance away from him while still looking for similar behaviours.
I looked at BAT recently as 1 I didn't know what it was and 2 I was looking for a way to deal with a new behaviour we're dealing with. We have a GSD next door that loves prowling the fence growling and snarling and often stands on hind legs over the wall doing the same. We had put a brushwood screen over the fenced part to block and little visual stimulus that our fella was reacting too. But once he hears or smells the dog next door he begins running up and down the length of the fence and even pulling bits of the brushwood off. It's a hard one when our neighbors aren't bothered doing anything with their dog so at the moment our lad has to stay on lead in our garden if we know that dog is loose in its garden.
Sometimes it feels like a whack a mole game. You get one thing on an even keel or to a point that ensures you and your dog are happy/safe/not stressed and then another thing pops up that needs attention.

How long has the gsd been there?

Bells21

Deleted User wrote:

How long has the gsd been there?

A year and a half. His behaviours are constantly reinforced when our dog starts reacting and our dog has been allowed to rehearse these behaviours over and over by accident. It's our fault as often we check to see if the dog next door is loose, as more often than not he is kept in a dog run, and then we let our fella out thinking all's calm and quiet and then we realise oh crap he's out.
Thankfully it's not very often that he's loose in the garden so our fella gets to enjoy our garden but then that also means less time for us to train with our fella if the other dog is locked away.

talking_walnut

Can anyone recommend a good trainer in Galway? I've been following the REACT program and getting positive results, but it might be time to get some professional guidance.