>600cc as a first bike, plus opinions needed - NEWB

gonko

Hi all

I have just applied for my Cat A permit and will have it out in the next week or so. Anyway, I have never ridden a bike before, but my new commute forces an alternative to the car and public transport is not an option. I have been driving a car for the past 13 years (my age: 31) and have always loved sports machines, be they cars or bikes and like to have nice power. My current car is a Lexus GS450h (350bhp and currently for sale - cheap plug lol) and my summer toy is a Honda Integra (>200bhp). I tell you guys this so you know what sort of person I am and what I would look for in a bike and I do believe bikes are very personal to the rider in many respects the way cars are to enthusiast. So perhaps you guys can recommend something based on this. Also bear in mind first time insurance where certain bikes just wont be touched.

I LOVE the 1000cc super-bikes, however, I know this is not an option as a starter bike!! I am aware I have no experience and would love to get into motorcycling with a sports style machine. I have been looking at the Kawasaki ER6-F/Ninja in the 650cc variant. From what I understand it is not overly powerful compared to some of the 600cc super sport machines, but does look like a sport machine. So I am guessing this bike is an option as a starter?
Just to be clear, I am going to be taking it very very slow on the bike until I get used to it. As a car driver, I see the dangers that face motorcyclists each day from stupid irresponsible car drivers. I also will not be one of these Valentino Rossi wannabes.

I am also kind of nervous about dropping a bike coming to a stop. I am 5ft6/5ft7 inches with about a 29ish inseam. I am worried that I will have a hard time controlling the bike on the seat when at a full stop. I am not sure if I am worrying needlessly here. Remember I have never driven a bike before and am worried about dropping one.

Also, what should I look for when buying one. I'm experienced with cars, not with bikes. I would not have a clue how to tell a good one from a bad one.

PS - The only reason I am going straight to Cat A is because I am unrestricted based on past theory test and age, and I will be doing some motorway miles, so would like a bike that is comfortable cruising at motorway speeds (I am talking engine RPMs here etc)..


Thanks in advance guys.

Sasso

How long is your commute, distance and what type please ?. Motorway, national road, city etc ?.

topcatcbr

For moterway riding id recommend a bike that has at least half fareing. I see nothing wrong with going 600cc first bike as long as your responsible. It only goes as fast as you make it.

For your height and commute allrounder im thinking Bandit6. A very reliable bike thats comfy for longer rides.

topcatcbr

The er6f is also a good choice if u prefer the look.

Sasso

Agree, I was suggesting Yamaha Fazer 600. Such bikes not too heavy, easy control, sufficient speed, comfort rider position. And can trade in 12 months when accustomed to it and more experienced etc. You won't loose money on the bike much. Essentially walk before run and these two suggestions will surprise you with their poke!

gonko

Sasso wrote: »

How long is your commute, distance and what type please ?. Motorway, national road, city etc ?.

Currently by car its around 1hr 15 mins. I am coming from North Circular Road in Dublin out to Leopordstown. It is 10% R roads, 20% N roads and 70% Motorway. Distance wise it is 27KM each way.

topcatcbr wrote: »

For moterway riding id recommend a bike that has at least half fareing. I see nothing wrong with going 600cc first bike as long as your responsible. It only goes as fast as you make it.

For your height and commute allrounder im thinking Bandit6. A very reliable bike thats comfy for longer rides.

I do like the bandit GSF S (I think this is a version of the bandit or a later one). I don't mind sacrificing a bit of comfort if the bike looks pretty. . So going all out sports bike would be an option, provided it would be somewhat sensible to do so. I have added the bandit to my list. Thank you for that. I am not even aware of some of the models out there!

gonko

Sasso wrote: »

Agree, I was suggesting Yamaha Fazer 600. Such bikes not too heavy, easy control, sufficient speed, comfort rider position. And can trade in 12 months when accustomed to it and more experienced etc. You won't loose money on the bike much. Essentially walk before run and these two suggestions will surprise you with their poke!

Added to the list. Again, never knew it existed. Thanks so much to all so far. Huge help.

Also does the year of a bike matter too much? Some good bargains out there pre 2000.

listermint

All out sport's bikes aren't much fun commuting across town , which is exactly what you will be doing.

Pick something you will be comfortable on but not bored.

This bike appears to be solely commuter focused from what you've said about your decision to buy

Pugzilla

Check out the SV650, plenty of them around from the early noughties.

gerrowadat

Don't go near buying a bike until you do your IBT and have a feel for what you're like on bikes. Do it on a school bike, and try to blag your way into trying as much as possible in terms of different kinds of bikes

I drive a fast car like yourself (290bhp lols fight me), but I'm like a granny on the bike, it's a whole other beast no matter how experienced you are. Plenty of lads like the idea of a certain kind of bike and find it doesn't suit them. By all means if it then suits you go for a sports bike - they can be less forgiving but you know yourself the best.

I've owned an er-6f. I found it good craic, I've ridden bigger bikes that seemed to have less in terms of poke (like the f800gt for example).

Lumen

You don't use strength to control a bike at low speed, you use skill. Height may affect bike choice so get your IBT done and see how the school bikes fit.

I got an XSR700 as a first bike last year and it's been great. Crap noise until I replaced the exhaust and a little thin on power at high speed but only in the sense that it won't pull power wheelies, still accelerates as fast as I need it to.

Wouldn't want anything slower.

On that commute a faster bike will be wasted. That section of M50 is limited to 100kph I think.

ratracer

I would recommend a Honda CBR600 F (not the RR). It is a brilliant all round bike for commuting, touring, even a bit of track daying if you like!! Very comfy riding position and superb reliability.

Del2005

gonko wrote: »

Currently by car its around 1hr 15 mins. I am coming from North Circular Road in Dublin out to Leopordstown. It is 10% R roads, 20% N roads and 70% Motorway. Distance wise it is 27KM each way.

You won't be using the motorway on the bike. Going through town will be more fun with options if there's a road blocked.

Best thing is to go into a few bike shops and sit on bikes you like the look of, ask permission. There's lowering options for all bikes and a lot are OEM.

gonko

gonko wrote: »

Hi all

I have just applied for my Cat A permit and will have it out in the next week or so. Anyway, I have never ridden a bike before, but my new commute forces an alternative to the car and public transport is not an option. I have been driving a car for the past 13 years (my age: 31) and have always loved sports machines, be they cars or bikes and like to have nice power. My current car is a Lexus GS450h (350bhp and currently for sale - cheap plug lol) and my summer toy is a Honda Integra (>200bhp). I tell you guys this so you know what sort of person I am and what I would look for in a bike and I do believe bikes are very personal to the rider in many respects the way cars are to enthusiast. So perhaps you guys can recommend something based on this. Also bear in mind first time insurance where certain bikes just wont be touched.

I LOVE the 1000cc super-bikes, however, I know this is not an option as a starter bike!! I am aware I have no experience and would love to get into motorcycling with a sports style machine. I have been looking at the Kawasaki ER6-F/Ninja in the 650cc variant. From what I understand it is not overly powerful compared to some of the 600cc super sport machines, but does look like a sport machine. So I am guessing this bike is an option as a starter?
Just to be clear, I am going to be taking it very very slow on the bike until I get used to it. As a car driver, I see the dangers that face motorcyclists each day from stupid irresponsible car drivers. I also will not be one of these Valentino Rossi wannabes.

I am also kind of nervous about dropping a bike coming to a stop. I am 5ft6/5ft7 inches with about a 29ish inseam. I am worried that I will have a hard time controlling the bike on the seat when at a full stop. I am not sure if I am worrying needlessly here. Remember I have never driven a bike before and am worried about dropping one.

Also, what should I look for when buying one. I'm experienced with cars, not with bikes. I would not have a clue how to tell a good one from a bad one.

PS - The only reason I am going straight to Cat A is because I am unrestricted based on past theory test and age, and I will be doing some motorway miles, so would like a bike that is comfortable cruising at motorway speeds (I am talking engine RPMs here etc)..


Thanks in advance guys.

That Kawasaki you are looking at would be fine to start with, it's not really very powerful at all and wouldn't be in the same league speed wise as a 600 sportsbike, so it's not a crazy decision to be looking at one.

Tbh the experience in high powered cars is irrelevant, different beasts.

You can lower the suspension if needs be

Just FYI on the motorway cruising, I have a 600 gsxr and it's an absolutely horrendous experience cruising on the m 50 at 120kmh, getting blown all over the place with the wind. If I was doing motorway driving I'd be buying one of those big touring bikes.

CaptainR

Just about pre 2000 bikes, a very reliable one isnt as easy to find which is what you'd want for commuting. They nearly all had carbs so there's gummed up carbs to deal with. Some can be very finicky to get started on a winter morning. You being into cars and 31 means you may have never had to deal with a car that wasn't fuel injected.

Just be careful with buying a 600cc bike that is that old. Sports bikes and big cruisers can be way up in the years but have low mileage because they are someone's weekend or summer toy but 600s and 650s would be a lot more likely to have been someone's workhorse.

CaptainR

CaptainR wrote: »

Just about pre 2000 bikes, a very reliable one isnt as easy to find which is what you'd want for commuting. They nearly all had carbs so there's gummed up carbs to deal with. Some can be very finicky to get started on a winter morning. You being into cars and 31 means you may have never had to deal with a car that wasn't fuel injected.

Just be careful with buying a 600cc bike that is that old. Sports bikes and big cruisers can be way up in the years but have low mileage because they are someone's weekend or summer toy but 600s and 650s would be a lot more likely to have been someone's workhorse.

Tbh I would argue that if something goes wrong with the fueling on a carb bike it is very easy to takes the carbs apart and clean them and balance them , it's just basic stuff anyone can do at home if they are prepared to watch a few YouTube videos and give it a shot.

If a bike is fuel injected you can do **** all and need to bring it to a shop to hook it up to diagnostic equipment if a problem arises.

In saying that Pre 2000 bike is nearly 20 years old, I wouldn't advise anyone to buy one tbh. Components have improved, how many people would be going out and buying a +20 year old car in the morning.

scarebus03

The ER-6f is a good starter bike, forgiving and fun when you want it to be. I have a 06 model and have soft panniers for laptop etc. For the motorway it's fine, loads of power but a bit viby between the 4k and 5k rev mark. For the motorway I fitted a MRA deflector screen and can sit up comfortably at 70mph+, the difference with the added wind protection is unreal. It's my first bike and I use it through town most days commuting to work. Like you was never on a bike until I did the IBT last September and passed the test in March. Like others have said wait until you do the IBT on the school bike to get a feel for what may suit. I didn't like the school bike I trained on so had an idea of what wouldn't work for me when I went looking. I bought my bike the week after I passed the IBT. Best of luck.

zubair

Great advice from scarebus, do the IBT and you'll know better yourself. A lot of riders go on to buy the same bike they learned on, obviously some don't too.

Adambutterly

I'm in the exact same situation. just got my provisional A licence so looking for a 600cc to commute into town and short motorway use but haven't had a feel for the power of 600's yet. gonna do the final module on IBT and see how there bike feels. keep us updated on what you got and how it suited you!

Adambutterly

Adambutterly wrote: »

I'm in the exact same situation. just got my provisional A licence so looking for a 600cc to commute into town and short motorway use but haven't had a feel for the power of 600's yet. gonna do the final module on IBT and see how there bike feels. keep us updated on what you got and how it suited you!

Lads it's all relative, it's not all about the cc.

I.e a bandit 600 is an inline 4 engine same as a 600 supersports i.e R6, gsxr etc, difference being it has about 78 bhp and a supersports has probably 108-120 because it's been tuned differently . Just because they are all 600 cc doesn't mean they really have anything in common power wise.

A Suzuki sv 650 would seem more powerful because it has 650cc rather than 600 but it's a different type of engine , a v twin and it will produce less power than the bandit, 64-73 bhp

Just note this regards the power of different 600's and the insurance categories they have which can vary wildly. On a provisional especially note just because an insurance company will quote on one 600 does not mean they will quote on another at all

I've just taken those figures rough from wiki

Trigger76

Jacob Flabby Valedictorian wrote: »

Lads it's all relative, it's not all about the cc.


Just note this regards the power of different 600's and the insurance categories they have which can vary wildly. On a provisional especially note just because an insurance company will quote on one 600 does not mean they will quote on another at all

I've just taken those figures rough from wiki

Im about to book my IBT soon, haven't been on bikes in years .... given Im 40 I'm gonna shoot for an A licence, I'm in no particular hurry, from all the reading Ive done here on the various threads I'm thinking my sensible options are

Bandit 600
Honda CBF600
Yamaha Fazer 600
Suzuki SV650

Are all these in or around the same ball park insurance wise, none being a sport bike?(I'm thinking on my learner permit if I get in under €600 thats not too bad?) Also Im assuming I can test on category A on all the above?

Cheers,
T

Trigger76

Trigger76 wrote: »

Im about to book my IBT soon, haven't been on bikes in years .... given Im 40 I'm gonna shoot for an A licence, I'm in no particular hurry, from all the reading Ive done here on the various threads I'm thinking my sensible options are

Bandit 600
Honda CBF600
Yamaha Fazer 600
Suzuki SV650

Are all these in or around the same ball park insurance wise, none being a sport bike?(I'm thinking on my learner permit if I get in under €600 thats not too bad?) Also Im assuming I can test on category A on all the above?

Cheers,
T

All of them will be the same ball park insurance, you will probably be looking around 600 euro insurance on a provision and maybe 450 when you have a full licence. Cheapest insurer on the market at the moment is principal insurance.

I know for sure the bandit can be used for the A full test, the rest I don't know for sure but your IBT instructor will , I imagine they can

cadete

Trigger76 wrote: »

Im about to book my IBT soon, haven't been on bikes in years .... given Im 40 I'm gonna shoot for an A licence, I'm in no particular hurry, from all the reading Ive done here on the various threads I'm thinking my sensible options are

Bandit 600
Honda CBF600
Yamaha Fazer 600
Suzuki SV650

Are all these in or around the same ball park insurance wise, none being a sport bike?(I'm thinking on my learner permit if I get in under €600 thats not too bad?) Also Im assuming I can test on category A on all the above?

Cheers,
T

35 and on my first provisional insurance on an Sv650s was 230 tpft last year with principle, I got a big shock at how cheap it was. With the sv I'm delighted with my choice, the engine breaking is really great on her and just gives me a lot of confidence as a learner! If you can definitely try one for a test run,

Blanchy90

Just a note the SV650 wont do for the A licence it needs to be the SV650s

Trigger76

Thanks lads appreciate the replies. The forum is great, very friendly have to say, things seem to have changed a lot around bikes in the last 15 years or so.

Blanchy90 wrote: »

Just a note the SV650 wont do for the A licence it needs to be the SV650s

Cheers Blanchy for the info looks like your spot on there, if I do end up with one, whilst not a huge deal I guess, my preference would be to test on a bike I have 8-10 months under me.

Thanks again appreciate all the info and experience people have shared on all the newb threads.

mcginty28

Yamaha mt07 . very light and easy bike for a novice to ride. not much in the way of fairings but you won't find it too much of in issue on that commute. I started on a bandit 6 another good bike for a learner but the mt 07 looks and handles better with plenty of power when needed for motorway driving etc.

Trigger76

mcginty28 wrote: »

Yamaha mt07 . very light and easy bike for a novice to ride. not much in the way of fairings but you won't find it too much of in issue on that commute. I started on a bandit 6 another good bike for a learner but the mt 07 looks and handles better with plenty of power when needed for motorway driving etc.

Thanks mcginty, had a look, they look like a nice machine alright, not many second hand ones around from what I can see and Id definitely be looking at around 5k by the looks of it might be a bit of a stretch for me starting off.

mcginty28

yeah I was looking for second hand but ended up buying new for 8k. well worth the money!

Trigger76

mcginty28 wrote: »

yeah I was looking for second hand but ended up buying new for 8k. well worth the money!

Had a look on Bikeworld there, just over the 8k. I'll see how I go over the IBT and how comfortable or otherwise I am with a 600 sized bike in general, conventional wisdom here is, "everyone drops their first bike" .... looks like a lovely machine though. Safe to assume insurance is in around what it would be for a bandit ... power output looks comparable?

mcginty28

yeah mate insurance similar to bandit, nothing wrong with the bandit either just bit heavier, you'll pick decent one up for around 2 - 3k. best of luck

mcginty28

by the way try other shops not just bike world, I found mega bikes bit cheaper and Cotters too especially for gear.

Trigger76

Cheers man, plenty of Bandits about for sure.

Nesta99

CaptainR wrote: »

Just about pre 2000 bikes, They nearly all had carbs so there's gummed up carbs to deal with.

Damn carbs!! Even motorcycles have struggle with them.

Peanut2011

I've started on the Bandit 600. Never regretted it.

I had to restrict it to be legal at the time but still found it great. For starter bike I would always suggest the bike with no fairings. As novice you will make silly mistakes, last thing you want is the cost of replacing fairings.

They won't be as nice for motorway riding but until you build up experience that would be my suggestion from my experience.

Also, I can tell you that hight wise, Bandit will be fine.

gonko

Peanut2011 wrote: »

I've started on the Bandit 600. Never regretted it.

I had to restrict it to be legal at the time but still found it great. For starter bike I would always suggest the bike with no fairings. As novice you will make silly mistakes, last thing you want is the cost of replacing fairings.

They won't be as nice for motorway riding but until you build up experience that would be my suggestion from my experience.

Also, I can tell you that hight wise, Bandit will be fine.

Is it a given that a bike will be dropped starting off? Are there any fittings I can get to stop the damage. I heard of crash bobbins (or something like that)?
Also, would I be better to buy up the North or the UK and VRT it here. From a value/spend POV. I got my lid up North yesterday. Still need to pick up other bits, and hope ot have the IBT booked and done this month.

Del2005

gonko wrote: »

Is it a given that a bike will be dropped starting off? Are there any fittings I can get to stop the damage. I heard of crash bobbins (or something like that)?
Also, would I be better to buy up the North or the UK and VRT it here. From a value/spend POV. I got my lid up North yesterday. Still need to pick up other bits, and hope ot have the IBT booked and done this month.

Yes fit crash bobbins or bars. You can get crank case protection also. If not fitted buy some ASAP.

More selection in the UK but you won't be able to ride home so will have to be bought blind and transported here for you. UK dealers are usually upfront with the bikes but even the best get stung.

zubair

Not a given, I didn't drop it nor did many others. But there are 2 types of riders, those who have fallen and those who are going to fall. I wish I had bobbins for my first timpiste on my second bike.

Trigger76

zubair wrote: »

timpiste

Blanchy90

Trigger76 wrote: »

Thanks lads appreciate the replies. The forum is great, very friendly have to say, things seem to have changed a lot around bikes in the last 15 years or so.



Cheers Blanchy for the info looks like your spot on there, if I do end up with one, whilst not a huge deal I guess, my preference would be to test on a bike I have 8-10 months under me.

Thanks again appreciate all the info and experience people have shared on all the newb threads.

I talked to my instructor yesterday and he said the the SV650 is fine for the A licence, we checked the list on the rsa website and it says its fine too. I mush have looked at an old list before that said it wasnt suitable

COH

Blanchy90 wrote: »

I talked to my instructor yesterday and he said the the SV650 is fine for the A licence, we checked the list on the rsa website and it says its fine too. I mush have looked at an old list before that said it wasnt suitable

Did my test for the A licence on an SV - 100% fine

Beta Ray Bill

OP

The bike to buy is Suzuki SV650S (faired model)

I've avoid the fazer (Or any other in-line) engine for the moment until you figure out what's what.

The SV650S doesn't have huge HP but it has great torque and engine breaking.
It's quite comfortable and parts are cheap (in the event you drop it)

This is the bike I learned on.
IMO V2's are the easiest type of engine to learn on.

I liked the V2's so much I went on to 1190 RC8R after the SV.

G.

Pugzilla

S1000RR, never feel the need to upgrade.

https://rideapart.com/articles/why-the-190mph-bmw-s1000rr-would-make-a-terrific-first-motorcycle

run_Forrest_run

grahambo wrote: »

OP


I've avoid the fazer (Or any other in-line) engine for the moment until you figure out what's what.

I don't mean to go wildly off topic but why do you say that? Is it about power delivery/handling? BTW I'm not even a bike owner (yet) but I love discussions like this.

frozenfrozen

Yesterday in the wet I spun up my pilot road 4 rear (a good wet tyre..) by rolling on a little too much while coming out of a bend

I probably left a little line on the road and continued on with my journey


I'm on an sv650 that has a very predictable powerband

if I'd done the same thing on a 1000* i4 I could have given myself a little highside and maybe or maybe not have saved it


it is important to be on a forgiving bike as your first one but at the same time one that won't teach you to be whacking open the throttle whenever you feel like it

so that could be what graham is getting at

Beta Ray Bill

Pugzilla wrote: »

S1000RR, never feel the need to upgrade.

https://rideapart.com/articles/why-the-190mph-bmw-s1000rr-would-make-a-terrific-first-motorcycle

Do not buy a 1000cc bike as your first bike. You will die. :pac::eek:
I own one of these, cracking bike but would not recommend a person learn on one of these.
They are immensely powerful.

run_Forrest_run wrote: »

I don't mean to go wildly off topic but why do you say that? Is it about power delivery/handling? BTW I'm not even a bike owner (yet) but I love discussions like this.

Power delivery and torque

On V2/V4 it's smooth to about 2/3 of the way up and there's lots of torque
This means ya don't need to worry to much about gears. Power delivery is very predictable.

In lines have lots of BHP, but not as much torque, you need to be in the right gear at the right time. and the power is kind of "all at once".
You need to keep the revs up, especially on a 600cc engine.

stewygriffin

grahambo wrote: »

Do not buy a 1000cc bike as your first bike. You will die. :pac::eek:
I own one of these, cracking bike but would not recommend a person learn on one of these.
They are immensely powerful.



Power delivery and torque

On V2/V4 it's smooth to about 2/3 of the way up and there's lots of torque
This means ya don't need to worry to much about gears. Power delivery is very predictable.

In lines have lots of BHP, but not as much torque, you need to be in the right gear at the right time. and the power is kind of "all at once".
You need to keep the revs up, especially on a 600cc engine.

Have you tried her in full on "slick" mode yet?


Turns a fast bike into an animal of a bike.;)

Del2005

frozenfrozen wrote: »

Yesterday in the wet I spun up my pilot road 4 rear (a good wet tyre..) by rolling on a little too much while coming out of a bend

I probably left a little line on the road and continued on with my journey


I'm on an sv650 that has a very predictable powerband

if I'd done the same thing on a 1000* i4 I could have given myself a little highside and maybe or maybe not have saved it


it is important to be on a forgiving bike as your first one but at the same time one that won't teach you to be whacking open the throttle whenever you feel like it

so that could be what graham is getting at

Most modern 1000cc 4cyl bikes have traction control and different power settings. So on an S1000RR you wouldn't have spun the rear.

A big bike is easy to ride at low speeds and any bike can go fast enough to get you in trouble. A friend had an original R1 and that would easily do 50km/h in top gear and it could also scare you, but without training and experience you can scare yourself on a moped.

Beta Ray Bill

stewygriffin wrote: »

Have you tried her in full on "slick" mode yet?


Turns a fast bike into an animal of a bike.;)

Dealer told me NOT to put it in slick unless I had a slick tyre on it.

I've tried user mode. Launch control is mental! (Hold the f**k on!)

Del2005 wrote: »

Most modern 1000cc 4cyl bikes have traction control and different power settings. So on an S1000RR you wouldn't have spun the rear.

A big bike is easy to ride at low speeds and any bike can go fast enough to get you in trouble. A friend had an original R1 and that would easily do 50km/h in top gear and it could also scare you, but without training and experience you can scare yourself on a moped.

True at lot of the 2014 and up bikes have some some degree of Traction control.
However they are generally the guts of €15,000 for a 2/3 year old 1000cc super bike. not the kind of money you'd want to spend on learning to drive.

Traction control might get you out of a hairy situation, then again it might not. I've had a few slides on the S1000RR even in rain mode, when it's been very wet.
You need the experience gained on a smaller more controllable bike to know what to do.

Lumen

frozenfrozen wrote: »

Yesterday in the wet I spun up my pilot road 4 rear (a good wet tyre..) by rolling on a little too much while coming out of a bend

I probably left a little line on the road and continued on with my journey

I'm on an sv650 that has a very predictable powerband

if I'd done the same thing on a 1000* i4 I could have given myself a little highside and maybe or maybe not have saved it

I think those too-much-throttle-out-of-corner situations (where you're at least prepared for some acceleration and are looking in the right direction) are less of an issue than the properly accidental throttle applications happening under duress in traffic or due to total lack of coordination due to being a **** noob.

There have been a couple of times on my 700 where I've just had a brain fart and wanged the throttle a bit for no reason whatsoever.

I'm hoping that just goes away in time. :rolleyes:

frozenfrozen

Del2005 wrote: »

Most modern 1000cc 4cyl bikes have traction control and different power settings. So on an S1000RR you wouldn't have spun the rear.

A big bike is easy to ride at low speeds and any bike can go fast enough to get you in trouble. A friend had an original R1 and that would easily do 50km/h in top gear and it could also scare you, but without training and experience you can scare yourself on a moped.

ah so what you're saying is I need to get an s1000rr... I agree

Lumen wrote: »

I think those too-much-throttle-out-of-corner situations (where you're at least prepared for some acceleration and are looking in the right direction) are less of an issue than the properly accidental throttle applications happening under duress in traffic or due to total lack of coordination due to being a **** noob.

There have been a couple of times on my 700 where I've just had a brain fart and wanged the throttle a bit for no reason whatsoever.

I'm hoping that just goes away in time. :rolleyes:

remind me never to queue up in front of you at the lights! :pac:

grahambo

grahambo wrote: »

Do not buy a 1000cc bike as your first bike. You will die. :pac::eek:
I own one of these, cracking bike but would not recommend a person learn on one of these.
They are immensely powerful.



Power delivery and torque

On V2/V4 it's smooth to about 2/3 of the way up and there's lots of torque
This means ya don't need to worry to much about gears. Power delivery is very predictable.

In lines have lots of BHP, but not as much torque, you need to be in the right gear at the right time. and the power is kind of "all at once".
You need to keep the revs up, especially on a 600cc engine.

Don't agree on the 600cc revs, il start off by saying I hate , absolutely hate driving in the rain. I've come off before years ago in the rain.

The absolute last thing I would be doing on my gsxr in the rain is keeping it high revs, it's perfectly commutable in the rain at 4-5k revs everywhere in any gear from 1-4.

It scares the **** changing gear at 10k revs in the dry let alone 16k, I see no need to go above 5 in the rain.