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Upstream nymphing

  • 22-03-2017 10:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭


    Hey all

    Been on the fly for a good while, never really tried upstream nymphing much only with the dou method, would you say the upstream nymphing is more affective? What should my leader be? 9ft to the point and 3ft from the point to the dropper ? I have a good bit of goldhead pheasants and hears ears, what water should I be looking out for to use the upstream nymphing? Slack ish water etc, long line or short line? I've tried this a few times with little success maybe I'm throwing out a long line, and not keeping in contact with the line? Any advice lads be helpful.

    Cheers.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 580 ✭✭✭whelzer


    What rivers do you fish?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 668 ✭✭✭blackpearl


    Fished it a good bit years back upstream, short cast 12 o clock around to 3 let nymphs drift to you and below ,found the best set up check nymph weighted dark olive size 12,6" above 6" dropper size 14 or16 olive goldhead nymph or same in goldhead pheasant tail the use of a indicator is very important what ever depth you are fishing have the indicator the same distance from the water watch for any movement strike ,you would be supprised at the number of good trout you would catch a foot or so from your feet,you have fished the fly yourself you will know the places to fish side of pools ,above and below rocks ect hope this helps you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    blackpearl wrote: »
    Fished it a good bit years back upstream, short cast 12 o clock around to 3 let nymphs drift to you and below ,found the best set up check nymph weighted dark olive size 12,6" above 6" dropper size 14 or16 olive goldhead nymph or same in goldhead pheasant tail the use of a indicator is very important what ever depth you are fishing have the indicator the same distance from the water watch for any movement strike ,you would be supprised at the number of good trout you would catch a foot or so from your feet,you have fished the fly yourself you will know the places to fish side of pools ,above and below rocks ect hope this helps you.
    Cheers blackbear

    Just wondering the rivers I fish aren't that big from 6 feet to 25ft wide how would I go about and normally I fish small streams, would I have to change tactics slightly compared to a bigger river like the suir, gonna give it a go this week and see how I get on!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭Auldloon


    There's loads of videos on YouTube that will help. Search the seams and fast water at the head of pools. Klink and dink is good but my fav is czeck nymphing styles. Your heaviest nymph needs to be in touch with the bottom or you'll catch nothing. Be prepared to loose flies, think of them as ammunition, disposable. Good luck


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 668 ✭✭✭blackpearl


    On the bigger rivers like suir and boyne ,when i fished the boyne the first time i was scraching my head but soon nailed it, fish in sections just break it up like it was a small river fish a100 yard of river get out back to start, move out a few yards and up the river just be carefull this time of year in the big rivers, got a nasty fall a few years back and was swept down a bit, lucky for me i got back to my feet just before i came to a deep pool, use a wading stick it will help big time and as the last post said you need plenty of flys when using weight nymphs,best of luck you will catch loads of small trout and salmon parr but you will be suprised at the size of some of the big trout you will catch,let us know how you get on ,i have moved to the big lakes this last number of years all dry fly fishing but when its not happing its won boring place to be ,in rivers theirs allways some thing happing around the next bend.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    blackpearl wrote: »
    On the bigger rivers like suir and boyne ,when i fished the boyne the first time i was scraching my head but soon nailed it, fish in sections just break it up like it was a small river fish a100 yard of river get out back to start, move out a few yards and up the river just be carefull this time of year in the big rivers, got a nasty fall a few years back and was swept down a bit, lucky for me i got back to my feet just before i came to a deep pool, use a wading stick it will help big time and as the last post said you need plenty of flys when using weight nymphs,best of luck you will catch loads of small trout and salmon parr but you will be suprised at the size of some of the big trout you will catch,let us know how you get on ,i have moved to the big lakes this last number of years all dry fly fishing but when its not happing its won boring place to be ,in rivers theirs allways some thing happing around the next bend.

    Will do I mostly do dry flys on the rivers some action, went out for a look at the river to high at the moment should be perfect for next week! Will post update on how it goes. Cheers for the advice.

    Audloon just wondering do you ever use normal nymphs like hears ears doing upstream or just czech nymphs?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭Auldloon


    Hares ear and pheasant tail would be perfect. Heavy ones so tungsten bead head, 2 beads if necessary to get you down.
    I might be emphasising the weight a bit much as I fish big rivers where I'm living but as long as you remember you need the nymphs to be touching the bottom you should be good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    Auldloon wrote: »
    Hares ear and pheasant tail would be perfect. Heavy ones so tungsten bead head, 2 beads if necessary to get you down.
    I might be emphasising the weight a bit much as I fish big rivers where I'm living but as long as you remember you need the nymphs to be touching the bottom you should be good.

    Cheers for the advice

    I tie my own flies I'm using a 3.5mm gold bead would adding two of these be a good idea do you think, don't have any tungsten beads will have to get,

    Cheers for the advice!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭Auldloon


    Cheers for the advice

    I tie my own flies I'm using a 3.5mm gold bead would adding two of these be a good idea do you think, don't have any tungsten beads will have to get,

    Cheers for the advice!


    Try a few sure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Do any of ye fish mayfly nymphs. I always reckoned that trout must consume large numbers of mayfly nymphs before they hatch,as there is no need to break the surface for the hatched flies.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 32,688 ✭✭✭✭ytpe2r5bxkn0c1


    Do any of ye fish mayfly nymphs. I always reckoned that trout must consume large numbers of mayfly nymphs before they hatch,as there is no need to break the surface for the hatched flies.

    That's what the Hare's Ear nymph was designed as. The gold ribbed in particular.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    As in all upwinged flies or just the mayfly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,944 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    As in all upwinged flies or just the mayfly.

    Just change the size for different species. Size 12 to 20.

    I find fishing the "klink and dink" a lot easier and more effective than upstream nymphing.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 32,688 ✭✭✭✭ytpe2r5bxkn0c1


    As in all upwinged flies or just the mayfly.

    The Hare's Ear? Specifically designed as Mayfly nymph.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    What size hook for mayfly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Bogwoppit wrote: »
    Just change the size for different species. Size 12 to 20.

    I find fishing the "klink and dink" a lot easier and more effective than upstream nymphing.

    What is klink and dink.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,944 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    What is klink and dink.

    You put a klinkhammer dry fly at the end of your tippet. You tie 12 to 24 inches of tippet to the bend of the hook and tie a weighted nymph to that.
    You cast upstream and let it drift back, the dry acts as an indicator if something takes the nymph.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Bogwoppit wrote: »
    You put a klinkhammer dry fly at the end of your tippet. You tie 12 to 24 inches of tippet to the bend of the hook and tie a weighted nymph to that.
    You cast upstream and let it drift back, the dry acts as an indicator if something takes the nymph.

    Could you tie a dry fly to the dropper and use the end fly as a nymph.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    This is what I do for klink and dink

    I have a dropper very short one at that then, I have a klink on it.
    About 20 inches of line I have that tied to a goldhead nymph
    I tried tying it on the bend of the hook but found trout weren't going for the dry fly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    Its the same as fishing a team of wets except the one on the point is dry - just tie droppers! Less indication but you'l still see it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    When you say the point fly do you mean the fly at the end of the leader or the fly closest to the fly line.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    Point fly is the fly at the end of the bottom, the klink would be the top dropper. Or the fly nearest to the fly line.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Would the point fly be inclined to sink the dry fly. Let's say you had a dry mayfly and a mayfly emerger/nymph on the point,would it not draw the dry fly down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    Would the point fly be inclined to sink the dry fly. Let's say you had a dry mayfly and a mayfly emerger/nymph on the point,would it not draw the dry fly down.

    No but the dry fly needs to be able to hold it up I used size 12 klinks with no problem, I'd say a mayfly would be able to hold it. Put gink and your sorted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,944 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    I generally use a dry fly one size bigger than the nymph e.g. Size 16 klinkhammer and size 18 bead head nymph hanging 18 inches/ 2 feet below.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    No but the dry fly needs to be able to hold it up I used size 12 klinks with no problem, I'd say a mayfly would be able to hold it. Put gink and your sorted.

    And the emerging mayfly.Or the mayfly nymph. Do you gink these. Do you give the nymph life as in drawing the line a little or let it do its owe thing.Trout love to pick off the mayfly as they hang from the surface.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    No the nymph you dont gink just the dry fly so that it will stay up, what I would do for example say a size 12 mayfly and a size 14/12 mayfly nymph, short ish casts and when it's near to you draw it up slowly like the nymph is emerging if you get me. I wouldn't cast out to far with this type of fishing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    When I am fishing for trout during the mayfly hatch I approach them from down stream.Then they all stop rising to the natural flies even before I start casting. I presume it is because they see me. How do I prevent this from happening.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    When I am fishing for trout during the mayfly hatch I approach them from down stream.Then they all stop rising to the natural flies even before I start casting. I presume it is because they see me. How do I prevent this from happening.

    Dont let them see you!!!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    Try and wade very carefully don't get too close I'd be more than two rod lengths away as they will spook, your casting has to be very good no splashes as they will spook.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    ardinn wrote: »
    Dont let them see you!!!

    The don't let them see you bit can be tricky.They are 4 and 5 rod lengths away and still they stop.The good casting bit is obvious enough. They are so easy to spook. I expect you need to cast both flies above them. So a long leader is required. 7/8 feet?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    The don't let them see you bit can be tricky.They are 4 and 5 rod lengths away and still they stop.The good casting bit is obvious enough. They are so easy to spook. I expect you need to cast both flies above them. So a long leader is required. 7/8 feet?

    Yes i'd never use anything less than 9 foot because if you have less the leader wont turn over, I'd use 10ft with the klink and dink.. and with nearly everything.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    9ft minimum - but if they are that spooky drop the dropper and go with a single dry cast well above them. But then your not upstream nymphing!

    I dont have the patience for that anyway - i'd just get above them and feed them wets!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    ardinn wrote: »
    9ft minimum - but if they are that spooky drop the dropper and go with a single dry cast well above them. But then your not upstream nymphing!

    I dont have the patience for that anyway - i'd just get above them and feed them wets!

    What wet flies do you use for mayfly on a river. Don't think I can get above them either as it is too deep to wade.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    I'm having success on march browns

    but Grey Goslings work too - any goslings really, do a bit of research on wet may's. Google is your friend!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    ardinn wrote: »
    I'm having success on march browns

    but Grey Goslings work too - any goslings really, do a bit of research on wet may's. Google is your friend!

    Are you catching trout on mayflies already. I saw one today on the bank of the river. Thought it might be a bit early for mayflies but apparently not.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    Are you catching trout on mayflies already. I saw one today on the bank of the river. Thought it might be a bit early for mayflies but apparently not.

    No they are'nt mayflies - march brown is a wet pattern similar to hatching may's, the grey gosling is essentially a may nymph - I'm just back from the river and I hit 5 trout, all on grey nymphs - wouldnt touch any sparkle / olives or bright shrimps. Make of that what you will!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Are size 10 wet goslings too big for wet mayfly fishing on rivers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    Are size 10 wet goslings too big for wet mayfly fishing on rivers.

    Depends - try them out - I have 12's if you need to go smaller.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Good man.Thank you.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Another question. What size nymph would you use this time of year. I don't mean mayfly nymph but other nymph. And do i put something on the leader to float it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 32,688 ✭✭✭✭ytpe2r5bxkn0c1


    Another question. What size nymph would you use this time of year. I don't mean mayfly nymph but other nymph. And do i put something on the leader to float it.

    I use 12 and 14 but it would depend on the water. Why do you want to float a nymph?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    Another question. What size nymph would you use this time of year. I don't mean mayfly nymph but other nymph. And do i put something on the leader to float it.

    Ya dont float nymphs :D

    Where are you from?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 668 ✭✭✭blackpearl


    I use to put flotant on the leader in the summer when fishing upstream with a pheasant tail nymph i would grease leader to within 3 to 4 inches of nymph this was for trout rising near and in the surface flim it worked like a dream size 16 and 14 was what i used.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Can I be bold enough to ask you what kind of grease you used to grease the leader. Would you grease close to the nymph if I had a dry fly on the dropper. Or would the floating dry fly be sufficient to keep the nymph high in the water.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    Can I be bold enough to ask you what kind of grease you used to grease the leader. Would you grease close to the nymph if I had a dry fly on the dropper. Or would the floating dry fly be sufficient to keep the nymph high in the water.

    I think your mixing it up - nymphs are fished underwater - close as possible to the bottom. And with K&D the dry is on the point (end) and the nymph is back up the line about 18 inches or more.

    I have never hear of greasing a line but im not that long on the fly - I have heard of degreasing the line!! To make it sink - line on the water leaves a trail!

    Get some Gherke's Gink and apply to the dry fly - it will not sink. The nymh is supposed to sink so dont gink that!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    I think minktrapper wants the nymph to be fished under a few inches of the water to represent the hatching mayfly, all you do to do this is however deep you want the nymph to be just (for example) I was the nymph to be fishing near the surface I'd would use about 30cm-50cm of tippet from the klink dropper .

    Not sure if it would work I've always fished my nmyphs down close to the river bed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    ardinn wrote: »
    I think your mixing it up - nymphs are fished underwater - close as possible to the bottom. And with K&D the dry is on the point (end) and the nymph is back up the line about 18 inches or more.

    I have never hear of greasing a line but im not that long on the fly - I have heard of degreasing the line!! To make it sink - line on the water leaves a trail!

    Get some Gherke's Gink and apply to the dry fly - it will not sink. The nymh is supposed to sink so dont gink that!

    I thought the dry was on the dropper and the nymph on the point. Therefore the nymph would fish maybe 6" to a foot under the surface. Therefore during a hatch the nymph would represent a rising nymph just before getting to the surface. A lot of trout take the rising nymphs as opposed to the adult floating on the surface.


    If I fished the dry on the point how would I get the nymph to fish on the bottom.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,010 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    I think minktrapper wants the nymph to be fished under a few inches of the water to represent the hatching mayfly, all you do to do this is however deep you want the nymph to be just (for example) I was the nymph to be fishing near the surface I'd would use about 30cm-50cm of tippet.

    Not sure if it would work I've always fished my nymphs down close to the river bed

    Correct. It is my opinion that trout will not go to the surface to consume insects. And will instead just eat the nymph rising from the bottom. They just exert less energy as opposed to breaking the surface. This not only​ goes for mayfly but all insects that hatch on the surface. Sedges are another example.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    Im pretty sure the dry is at the end! But maybe im wrong - wouldnt be the first time ha. But the way I do it is the top image, seems to make more sense.

    [IMG][/img]Untitled.png


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