the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

DaveyDave

I'm assuming there's probably some higher wear with a rear hub motor as the wheel is being driven but ebikes aren't monster power, I can't imagine a tyre would wear that soon. A higher rate of wear sure but not a fraction of the life or even less. I'm a big guy and I've never gotten less than 5,000km on a rear tyre and that's would include the usual skidding associated with commuting in traffic. 1,500km on my ebike rear tyre (mid drive in fairness) and no noticeable wear.

CramCycle

Are you using the rear brakes or front brakes as the main ones for stopping?

fun loving criminal

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119413638#Comment_119413638

If I know I'm going to stop, at traffic lights for example, I will cycle slowly to slow down and then apply front brakes first and then apply back.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119414421#Comment_119414421

Fair enough, It was the only reason I could think was you were using back brakes only. I went through tyres super quick when I first came to Dublin as I was skid stopping all the time, tyres last ages now just using the front brake where possible. This said, I bought a pair of Marathons and after several years the only reason I got rid of them was comfort and speed, they'd probably still be going if I kept them.

cletus

What tyres are on the bike. There are other forums online where people have burned through ttres on ebikes really quickly, because they weren't rated for ebike use

fun loving criminal

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119414507#Comment_119414507

They were Schwalble tyres that came on the bike. So I would think they would be for ebike use on a brand new bike.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119414559#Comment_119414559

True. I'd go back to the shop, and see what they have to say. They might just replace for you, or they might spot something in person we can't see or know over the interwebz

Mundo7976

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119411318#Comment_119411318

Looks very patterned, is there any possibility it's rubbing off something under the mudguard or seat tube?

fun loving criminal

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119414572#Comment_119414572

Definitely not rubbing against anything. Plenty of space between tyre and mudguard.

chopperbyrne

This is probably the best thread for this.

Was in the Netherlands a few weeks ago, and having not been on a bike in about twenty years, we did about 50km in a single day.

My arse was killing me afterwards. Is it just like playing guitar, and how your fingers just get used to the strings, and toughen up, or is there a secret to not having a sore arse after cycling?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119414599#Comment_119414599

A friend of mine used to use a lighter on his finger tips to add to the calluses he was developing. I wouldn't suggest doing this to your arse...

Seriously, though, yeah it's just getting used to it. Padded shorts help massively, but if you're cycling regularly, you can cycle for relatively shorter distances without needing them.

Repo101

Bought a bike recently second hand with 9/16 peddles. Peddles seemed firm on initial inspection but noticed a problem on my fourth ride. The right peddle was forced into the left crank and vice versa with some sort of industrial glue which I have managed to dissolve. My issue is that the thread in the crank is almost completely worn.

Will a thread tap be enough? Seems to be a right pain in sourcing a 9/16 helicoil kit for a bike. Any advice appreciated.

magicbastarder

The right peddle was forced into the left crank and vice versa

you may have a problem - the left pedal is reverse threaded, so i suspect if they've forced the pedals in the wrong way round, the threads will have been destroyed.

cletus

A thread tap in an already threaded hole will only clean up threads that are there. If the threads are damaged, as magicbastarder pointed is is most likely, in order for a tap to work, you'd need to drill out the hole, and go up a size with the tap.

That's of no use to you, as you need a specific size hole and thread for the pedals.

Depending on the amount of damage, helicoil or replacement crank ms could be the only option

CramCycle

Helicoil is the way to go, you'll get the usual warning that they won't be as good but I've done it twice on seperate bikes and it lasted fine for years.

Repo101

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119416439#Comment_119416439

Thanks, looking at the options it seems like crank replacement is the easiest way to fix this problem.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119416732#Comment_119416732

Helicoil will be about 25euro in the bike shop including them clearing it out, provided its not been ovalised too much. Certainly easier than the new crank IMO

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119414599#Comment_119414599

A bit yeah, during lock down I bought new strings and took the guitar and bass out of the attic and my hands were about to drop off me after half a song and my finger tips were in bits. Took a few weeks to build up the calluses. That said bike saddles have changed in the last 20 years and with the expectation on road bikes especially that you pad your arse not the saddle.

You're not complaining about being sore anywhere else so sounds like your general fitness was a match to 50km you did.

loyatemu

my rule of thumb arse is anything over 20km I stick the padded shorts on. Even if the saddle is well padded, after a while you'll get discomfort from friction if you're not wearing cycle-specific shorts.

Wishbone Ash

I was cleaning my audax bike yesterday and noticed damage on the cassette - a broken tooth on each of the smallest and second smallest sprocket. This is a new one for me. Any idea how it could have happened?

I went out for a long ride on Saturday (on a clean bike) in poor weather conditions so it must have happened during that ride but I have no recollection of any incident, nor did it affect the bike in any way. The cassette and chain are fairly new so I'm reluctant to replace them as they seem to be working OK but is it possible that it will put stress on the other teeth?

magicbastarder

they sound like sprockets not normally used on a bike used for audax? not that i have experience with audax, but i'd only ever user them on downhills, and rarely at that?

Wishbone Ash

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119435458#Comment_119435458

Yes, that's the thing, I can't see me using them much certainly not on the 50/11 on an audax. I could possibly have been on the 34/11 but unlikely as I generally avoid cross chaining. Most of my wear would be mid cassette. It could possibly be just due to metal fatigue on a faulty cassette.

CramCycle

Anyone have trouble getting push on end caps for an axle to come off. Set of Newman wheels and either I am a moron or they are engineered too well. I now have them clamped with a table vise and still no luck. Tips appreciated.

hesker

Are they possibly screwed on

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119436565#Comment_119436565

I don't think so as they haven't anyway to grip them internally or externally. Newman also make quite thick QRs so you can see in, so I'm confident they are. Wish I'd just spent the cash and bought the removal tool they make but I want/need to get them off by tonight as I have to replace the freehub. I am trying to get a thin screwdriver and see can I wedge it from the farside, all my long Allen keys are rounded so they slip off.

hesker

Maybe post a photo. Might be possible to improvise a removal tool

Edit: Is this the tool and removal method

https://youtu.be/pp6Tu0bdeEM

If so then yeah maybe if you got two screwdrivers and got them in at 6 o’clock and 12 and lever both at the same time it might work. Risk of marking the hub though I’d imagine

Another option might be to clamp a vice grips onto the end cap then try to lever it off with a big spanner

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119436405#Comment_119436405

Would a vice grip do the job?

Put a rag or something on the endcap so it doesn't get scraped up in the process

CramCycle

Tried the vise, can't get a tight enough grip with a hand or bench one and have marked the end cap trying. Just gonna buy the tool and not cheap out the next time. Thought either a vise or the screwdriver trick would work but the endcap is so neatly machines that it's almost flush and the screwdriver ( or anything I have tried) can't get purchase on it. Time to give up alas.

nigeldaniel

On the topic of tyres and wheels, anyone throw in the towel when trying to get old tyres off double-walled rims. The bike is a Triban from decathlon. The bleeping things just will not come off. I got a second set of rims and fitted hybrid tyres in the end.

PS does anyone find the decathlon website seems to have a very limited payment option here? no PayPal or anything bar the credit card?

Elvis Hammond

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119440290#Comment_119440290

I've never heard of anyone getting new rims because they couldn't get the tyres off the old, until now.

Which model Triban is it? How far do you get with tyre removal before getting stuck?