the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

ednwireland

Type 17 wrote: »

or they may have been contaminated (bad weather, flooding).

eeeeerm i live in donegal :rolleyes::rolleyes: wet weather riding is the norm

Type 17

ednwireland wrote: »

eeeeerm i live in donegal :rolleyes::rolleyes: wet weather riding is the norm

Well, I meant riding through floodwater, rather than standard Irish (or even DL) weather

If buying cartridge bearings for a bike, where they're available, get the versions where the reference number ends in 2RS (2 x rubber seals) for better weather protection.

breezy1985

Just got a new road bike with 700x25 Bontrager tyres but my old bike has some pretty new Schwalbe Durano Plus- SmartGuard 700x23.

Should I go to the hassle of swapping them over (I hate changing tyres) or are 25s much better

magicbastarder

first question would be - what are the bontrager tyres? are they bargain basement or higher up their range?

loyatemu

breezy1985 wrote: »

Just got a new road bike with 700x25 Bontrager tyres but my old bike has some pretty new Schwalbe Durano Plus- SmartGuard 700x23.

Should I go to the hassle of swapping them over (I hate changing tyres) or are 25s much better

Why not just try them out?
I went from 23s to 25s and found them more comfortable on crappy Wicklow roads. I've now gone to 28s (though I haven't had a proper spin on them yet).

25 seems to be the standard for road bikes now.

fixXxer

Is it straightforward enough to fix a brake that no longer breaks? Back brake has gone loose and doesn't slow me any more. Been ignoring it and using the front, but had an emergency stop this week that nearly wasn't a stop so would be time to get it sorted I think.

CantGetNoSleep

Yes, you might need a new brake cable or simple to tighten the existing one

cletus

fixXxer wrote: »

Is it straightforward enough to fix a brake that no longer breaks? Back brake has gone loose and doesn't slow me any more. Been ignoring it and using the front, but had an emergency stop this week that nearly wasn't a stop so would be time to get it sorted I think.

Probably, is the short answer. Longer answer, depends on the problem. Could be worn pads that need to be replaced, a stretched cable, something loose...

If you could say what type of brakes you have, or maybe post a picture, someone here can help

breezy1985

magicbastarder wrote: »

first question would be - what are the bontrager tyres? are they bargain basement or higher up their range?

Ya it's called R1 which seems to be the cheapest

breezy1985

loyatemu wrote: »

Why not just try them out?
I went from 23s to 25s and found them more comfortable on crappy Wicklow roads. I've now gone to 28s (though I haven't had a proper spin on them yet).

25 seems to be the standard for road bikes now.

Have to decide by tonight as I'm giving the old bike away

fixXxer

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Yes, you might need a new brake cable or simple to tighten the existing one

I think tighten, as i can see a kink in the cable where it must have been clamped originally.

cletus wrote: »

Probably, is the short answer. Longer answer, depends on the problem. Could be worn pads that need to be replaced, a stretched cable, something loose...

If you could say what type of brakes you have, or maybe post a picture, someone here can help

Disc breaks on smaller wheels.

cletus

fixXxer wrote: »

I think tighten, as i can see a kink in the cable where it must have been clamped originally.



Disc breaks on smaller wheels.

The easiest thing to do then, is loosen off the bolt retaining the cable, pull it back to the squashed bit, and then tighten the bolt down again.

What do you mean by smaller wheels

Type 17

breezy1985 wrote: »

Ya it's called R1 which seems to be the cheapest

breezy1985 wrote: »

Have to decide by tonight as I'm giving the old bike away

Given a choice of 23s or 25s, I'd go with the 25s (and they're new). The R1 (R=Road tyre) is a decent enough entry-level tyre.

I use their higher-end R3 or R4 in a 28 in summer and AW3's in 25 in winter (AW = All-Weather).

ednwireland

Type 17 wrote: »

Well, I meant riding through floodwater, rather than standard Irish (or even DL) weather

If buying cartridge bearings for a bike, where they're available, get the versions where the reference number ends in 2RS (2 x rubber seals) for better weather protection.

replaced bearings, completely knackered. bb30 press and 22mm socket pressed in the bearings. managed to get fulcrum RT-004 bearings from deporvillage.

just noticed the bearings that came out are 2 rs! that's less than a year !

MangleBadger

So I have a wheel on trainer. The setup says to move the flywheel until it just rubs off the wheel.
When I do this and then spin the wheel it’s not always in touch with the roller.
I take it this is a pretty good sign my wheel is not 100% true?

Catalpa32

Hi All, silly question - looking at moving from 12-25 to 11-25 will I need a new chain? Thanks in advance

breezy1985

Catalpa32 wrote: »

Hi All, silly question - looking at moving from 12-25 to 11-25 will I need a new chain? Thanks in advance

Often when you change your groupset you need a new chain as the old one will have worn down in line with your old sprockets so will slip on any others

magicbastarder

depends on how badly the chain is worn - do you have a chain checker?

Type 17

ednwireland wrote: »

...just noticed the bearings that came out are 2 rs! that's less than a year !

The rubber seals are better than metal dust seals, but they don't make the bearings impermeable. Also, the preload may have been off - is there a way to set it on your hub?

MangleBadger wrote: »

So I have a wheel on trainer. The setup says to move the flywheel until it just rubs off the wheel.
When I do this and then spin the wheel it’s not always in touch with the roller.
I take it this is a pretty good sign my wheel is not 100% true?

The rim probably isn't perfect, and if you add in a slightly imperfect tyre (both totally normal), there is often a few mm of eccentricity. Just set the roller for the lowest spot.

Catalpa32 wrote: »

Hi All, silly question - looking at moving from 12-25 to 11-25 will I need a new chain? Thanks in advance

Based on the size-change, no but, as mentioned by breezy1985, if the old cassette and chain are worn, the chain may skip on some or all of the new sprockets.

Catalpa32

magicbastarder wrote: »

depends on how badly the chain is worn - do you have a chain checker?

Chain is in good state so all is good therr

rayman1

I was washing my bike today when I noticed some lateral movement in the back wheel. You could see the cassette moving relative to the wheel. My first thought was a loose cassette but it was well tight when I tried to tighten it. So I removed the cassette and there was play in the freehub body and I couldn't tighten it. The wheels are Giant PSL1 with a DT Swiss freehub. The wheels are 8 years old with a good bit of mileage. The freehub failed 3 years ago and I replaced the pawls and springs. Can it be tightened or is something just worn and must be replaced?
Is it worth repairing?

Type 17

How worn are the brake tracks? Are the nipples still moveable, or have they seized?

If the rims are worn, or the nipples are stuck (won't be able to fix any buckles), then it's probably not worth spending anything on them at this stage.

If the above are ok, it might be worth changing the bearings, but if the freehub itself is worn, it's probably not worth it.
There's usually a bearing within the freehub that can be changed, but there may also be a bushing on the axle which isn't available without buying a whole new freehub - and that's probably not worth it.

breezy1985

Catalpa32 wrote: »

Chain is in good state so all is good therr

Just stick it on I reckon and see if you notice any problems

nicksnikita

Hi everyone...
My bottle cage bolt seized in the rivnut causing the rivnut to spin in the frame. I cut off the bottle cage and hacksawed the head off the bolt.
The rivnut hole in the carbon frame appears intact.
Where's the best place to source rivnuts in Ireland?
Cheers, Nicholas

loyatemu

rayman1 wrote: »

I was washing my bike today when I noticed some lateral movement in the back wheel. You could see the cassette moving relative to the wheel. My first thought was a loose cassette but it was well tight when I tried to tighten it. So I removed the cassette and there was play in the freehub body and I couldn't tighten it. The wheels are Giant PSL1 with a DT Swiss freehub. The wheels are 8 years old with a good bit of mileage. The freehub failed 3 years ago and I replaced the pawls and springs. Can it be tightened or is something just worn and must be replaced?
Is it worth repairing?

My cassette appears to wobble as well, I thought I'd read somewhere this was not unusual. Doesn't seem to affect the gears.

two wheels good

Wobbling cassette: check to see if there are shims behind the cassette. Remove the thinest and check the fit again.

rayman1

loyatemu wrote: »

My cassette appears to wobble as well, I thought I'd read somewhere this was not unusual. Doesn't seem to affect the gears.

Shifting into the larger cogs was a bit hit and miss. Used a different wheel today and no issues with shifting.

8valve

nicksnikita wrote: »

Hi everyone...
My bottle cage bolt seized in the rivnut causing the rivnut to spin in the frame. I cut off the bottle cage and hacksawed the head off the bolt.
The rivnut hole in the carbon frame appears intact.
Where's the best place to source rivnuts in Ireland?
Cheers, Nicholas

Any engineering supply place should have them.


My local go-to place for odds and ends like that is HW Fasteners in Waterford.

cletus

nicksnikita wrote: »

Hi everyone...
My bottle cage bolt seized in the rivnut causing the rivnut to spin in the frame. I cut off the bottle cage and hacksawed the head off the bolt.
The rivnut hole in the carbon frame appears intact.
Where's the best place to source rivnuts in Ireland?
Cheers, Nicholas

Do you have the tool to set the rivnut?

Micksgarage do both packs of rivnuts, and a set including the tool

Type 17

If you want to set a rivnut without a proprietary tool, put an M5 bolt in it, with some grease on the threads, and with 3 or 4 washers that are the same diameter under the head. Screw it down by hand and put it into the hole in the frame.

Use a long (water-pump style or similar) pliers to hold the washers tight, to keep them (and the rivnut) from rotating. Tighten the bolt with an Allen key about 2-3 full turns, and you will have drawn up the bottom of the rivnut and set it in the frame.