Changing to 52/36 from 50/34...yae or nae?

dahat

Been cycling around 11 months on a 50/34 with 11/28 and progressed quickly in that time.

How do you know of a 52 would suit better than a 50? Sounds pathetic but my 50 feels a bit novicey and I'm keen to try a 52 but it isn't cost effective to try one out really.

Anyone change to a 52 from 50 and how was it? Adjustment period take long? Not sure if I could "push it" either really.

Leroy42

Why do you feel it is novicey?

Do you feel you are continually spinning out on your 50-11?

Leroy42

Why do you feel it is novicey?

Do you feel you are continually spinning out on your 50-11?

Eamonnator

I have 50/34 on my good bike and 52/36 on my winter bike.
In normal circumstances, I don't really notice the difference.

magicbastarder

i've a 53/39 and spend 90% of the time on the 39. it's generally only on downhills or good tailwinds that i move to the big ring.

dahat

Leroy42 wrote: »

Why do you feel it is novicey?

Do you feel you are continually spinning out on your 50-11?

I'd like to try some early races next year and not sure I'd hold in on a 50 11.


Wouldn't say I'm spinning out and I do use the 34 28 on big hills, Mahon, Seskin etc...

I'm just looking to progress and a step to a bigger crank may bring some improvement maybe.

dahat

magicbastarder wrote: »

i've a 53/39 and spend 90% of the time on the 39. it's generally only on downhills or good tailwinds that i move to the big ring.

53 39 is savage big, wouldn't even entertain a 53.

dahat

Eamonnator wrote: »

I have 50/34 on my good bike and 52/36 on my winter bike.
In normal circumstances, I don't really notice the difference.

I was advised to go the opposite to you.

tuxy

How much time do you spend in 50x11?

If you plan to race next season then it's possible you may need the 52/53 crank to keep up on some steep sections.

If your asking because you can keep it in the 50 for most of your cycle then that's a good thing, I hate making shifts on the front derailleur. You may have to use the small ring more often if you change to 52/36.

dahat

tuxy wrote: »

How much time do you spend in 50x11?

If you plan to race next season then it's possible you may need the 52/53 crank to keep up on some steep sections.

If your asking because you can keep it in the 50 for most of your cycle then that's a good thing, I hate making shifts on the front derailleur. You may have to use the small ring more often if you change to 52/36.

I'm not the best climber and would likely use the 36 on hills or gradients. At the moment I'm trying to stay on the small ring to improve cadence etc for the winter but I did find towards the latter end of season gone I was spending most of my cycle on the 50.

tuxy

dahat wrote: »

I'm not the best climber and would likely use the 36 on hills or gradients.

Then I would think the 34 is perfect for you on hills. the main reason to use a 36 small ring is so you can use a larger big ring as there is a limit to how much of a jump between cogs a front derailleur can manage. 52/34 would not work, the jump up is too large.

The only reason to change is if you need the bigger ring.
So if you find yourself blasting down a steep decent and you are as aero as you can be and other riders are still pulling away then you may need 52x11 or 53x11. It's only relevant if you train or race with others that are of a high level.

Btw 50x11 at 110 cadence is 63 km/h.
52x11 is 65.5.

dahat

tuxy wrote: »

Then I would think the 34 is perfect for you on hills. the main reason to use a 36 small ring is so you can use a larger big ring as there is a limit to how much of a jump between cogs a front derailleur can manage. 52/34 would not work, the jump up is too large.

The only reason to change is if you need the bigger ring.
So if you find yourself blasting down a steep decent and you are as aero as you can be and other riders are still pulling away then you may need 52x11 or 53x11. It's only relevant if you train or race with others that are of a high level.

Btw 50x11 at 110 cadence is 63 km/h.
52x11 is 65.5.

Lads in the club are quick and strong, a2/a4 level.

Being a year older cycling wise then maybe another year on the 50 34 to see how I'm going with my new and hopefully stronger second season legs before I change the crank.

Or maybe try a 12 25 with the 50 34, is that a feasible option?

How often do you use the 50x11 versus the 34x28

dahat

ronoc wrote: »

How often do you use the 50x11 versus the 34x28

I do use the 50 11 at high pace or in full flight. I tend to be at the front end of the pace if it isn't a hilly sportive or club mini league.

To quantify it would be difficult.

Eamonnator

dahat wrote: »

I was advised to go the opposite to you.

I actually swopped the chain sets on mine, so that I'd have 34-28, on my good bike, for hilly sportives like Wicklow 200 and Gran Fondo Belfast.
I have raced(badly) with 50/34 and 11/28.

tuxy

dahat wrote: »

Or maybe try a 12 25 with the 50 34, is that a feasible option?

Sure is and the smaller jump between cogs can help stay in your optimal cadence, If you're using Shimano 11 speed, 11-25 or 11-23 is also an option if you buy an Ultegra cassette. Just don't leave yourself without the gearing to comfortably get up some of the steeper hills in your area. You're in south Tipp and I know there are some tough climbs around there.

I'd leave it for now 50/34 is great for training.
When the winter is over and people are picking up the pace again then consider it if you find you sometimes spin out. if you can spin out 50x11 then fair play, it takes a good deal of strength to do that.

tuxy

Also the only problem I have with compact cranks(this will happen on both 50/34 and 52/36) is I have to shift a good bit on the back before shifting to the small ring because it is a large jump down. The only way to solve this is to switch to 53/39 but I'm not yet strong enough to power 39x28 up some of the steeper hills.

dahat

tuxy wrote: »

Sure is and the smaller jump between cogs can help stay in your optimal cadence, If you're using Shimano 11 speed, 11-25 or 11-23 is also an option if you buy an Ultegra cassette. Just don't leave yourself without the gearing to comfortably get up some of the steeper hills in your area. You're in south Tipp and I know there are some tough climbs around there.

I'd leave it for now 50/34 is great for training.
When the winter is over and people are picking up the pace again then consider it if you find you sometimes spin out. if you can spin out 50x11 then fair play, it takes a good deal of strength to do that.

Good bike has 11 speed Ultegra so the 11 25 is something I could try and would be an easier trial as I could use the cassette for winter turbo if it didn't work out.

I guess giving up on the 34 ring when I'm not the best climber isn't a good idea in hindsight given where I live really.

dahat

Eamonnator wrote: »

I actually swopped the chain sets on mine, so that I'd have 34-28, on my good bike, for hilly sportives like Wicklow 200 and Gran Fondo Belfast.
I have raced(badly) with 50/34 and 11/28.

Badly as in left behind or just not suitable to race on?

I can push a good bit of power when needed.

Lumen

dahat wrote: »

I'd like to try some early races next year and not sure I'd hold in on a 50 11..

If you get dropped it won't be because your chainring is too small.

ford2600

You can view spinning out as not having a high enough gear or not being able to spin fast enough

Reaching for the credit card isn't the only answer....

Perhaps google drills track cyclists use to improve your upper cadence limit; it's not fixed or set in stone.

Eamonnator

dahat wrote: »

Badly as in left behind or just not suitable to race on?

I can push a good bit of power when needed.

Badly as in old and fat.

dahat

ford2600 wrote: »

You can view spinning out as not having a high enough gear or not being able to spin fast enough

Reaching for the credit card isn't the only answer....

Perhaps google drills track cyclists use to improve your upper cadence limit; it's not fixed or set in stone.

Been doing some work with cadence via Trainerroad with the program I have chosen to follow and have found improvements in my cadence even after two nearly three weeks..

It's all a learning curve and anyone I know who has raced or is racing are all pushing 52 and bigger so I was curious to know at what point one decides to go for it.

dahat

Eamonnator wrote: »

Badly as in old and fat.

Quite similar in cyclist terms myself.... The omens aren't good...

albert kidd

if your going racing the compact wont do when it comes to the gallop.

dahat

albert kidd wrote: »

if your going racing the compact wont do when it comes to the gallop.

Even in A4 grade?

Why won't it do?

ford2600

dahat wrote: »

Even in A4 grade?

Why won't it do?

Your clubmate EB max speed to 5th in an A4 was 61kmph. IF you can spin at 110 in 50/11 you can just exceed that speed.

Only you know what you can spin at.

magicbastarder

dahat wrote: »

53 39 is savage big, wouldn't even entertain a 53.

huh - i'm running 53/39 on front, with 13-26 on the back. would not even entertain 53-13 except on a good long downhill, and that's about 10% lower a ratio than 50-11.

Casula

I got rid of 50/34 set up for a 52/39 a good few years ago. Much prefer it. Spend most of my time in the 39. Only find myself switching to big ring once speed is up over 35kph odd. Usually run a 11/28 or 12/27 cassette as prefer to spin up hills around Wicklow and found myself grinding too much when 39/25 was lowest gear. I also find the drop from the big ring to the 39 more smooth compared to dropping down to the 34 from big ring with compact.

dahat

ford2600 wrote: »

Your clubmate EB max speed to 5th in an A4 was 61kmph. IF you can spin at 110 in 50/11 you can just exceed that speed.

Only you know what you can spin at.

Can't see myself being able to maintain a 110 in 50 11 plus I wouldn't hold a candle to him if I'm being honest.

tuxy

Casula wrote: »

I got rid of 50/34 set up for a 52/39 a good few years ago. Much prefer it. Spend most of my time in the 39. Only find myself switching to big ring once speed is up over 35kph odd.

If you leave it until that speed to switch to the big ring wouldn't this mean you are cross chaining frequently?

dahat

Casula wrote: »

I got rid of 50/34 set up for a 52/39 a good few years ago. Much prefer it. Spend most of my time in the 39. Only find myself switching to big ring once speed is up over 35kph odd. Usually run a 11/28 or 12/27 cassette as prefer to spin up hills around Wicklow and found myself grinding too much when 39/25 was lowest gear. I also find the drop from the big ring to the 39 more smooth compared to dropping down to the 34 from big ring with compact.

11/28 is a good get out of jail for crap climbers like myself, wonder how it would be efficient it would be on 36/28?

Arthurdaly

I'd say your fine with the 50/34 setup for the moment, particularly through the winter where its actually probably a better set-up if you live in a hilly area like wicklow, thinking been you should be riding relatively easy and this may not be possible at your current level with a 52/36 set-up.

If you eventually start racing then a 53/39 set-up would be preferable but not a necessary set-up. If all depends the level you race at, A4 you might get away with a 50/34.

Personally I'd leave it for now and think about it again in March.

Craig06

Even if you only spin at 110rpm in a sprint I doubt you'll win the sprint. Learn how to spin gears. I use a 53/39 but that's because I never used the 34 before in the compact as I can climb reasonably well and a 39/28 the lowest I need in 99% of my riding at home. In a sprint I'll spin at in excess of 130rpm easily. Rarely use the 53/11 unless I'm in a tailwind lineout.

dahat

Craig06 wrote: »

Even if you only spin at 110rpm in a sprint I doubt you'll win the sprint. Learn how to spin gears. I use a 53/39 but that's because I never used the 34 before in the compact as I can climb reasonably well and a 39/28 the lowest I need in 99% of my riding at home. In a sprint I'll spin at in excess of 130rpm easily. Rarely use the 53/11 unless I'm in a tailwind lineout.

I think most will say using the 52/11 or 53/11 is a rarity I'd say. Finding a go to gear slightly higher up the block that allows me to accelerate quickly is the aim while using the 36 ring for climbing if I go for it in the Spring.

magicbastarder

dahat wrote: »

11/28 is a good get out of jail for crap climbers like myself, wonder how it would be efficient it would be on 36/28?

was shoppign around recently, saw a few bikes running a 32 on the rear.

Casula

tuxy wrote: »

If you leave it until that speed to switch to the big ring wouldn't this mean you are cross chaining frequently?

True but the point I'm getting at is a 39 is more versatile than a 34. You can stay in it pretty much all day and there isn't the same annoying dramatic switch in cadence jumping between it and the big ring that you get when doing likewise with a 34.

dahat

Weepsie wrote: »

If you're ever in Dublin, and running Shimano, I'm trying to get rid of my 52/36 crankset (105). I however don't race so can't give you advice, and it was on a commuter//touring bike with an 11-25 on the bike. Bizarre set up to be honest (originally had a 53/39). Had to change it to a standard compact and a 12-28 at the back

Sure put a price on it anyway. Ya never know!

tuxy

magicbastarder wrote: »

was shoppign around recently, saw a few bikes running a 32 on the rear.

You will often see 50/34 11-32 on bikes labeled as endurance. 34x32 seems ridiculous to anyone who cycles regularly but I'd image they are fantastic for people who only take the bike out a few times a year or those who have neglected training before a hilly sportive.

Casula

dahat wrote: »

11/28 is a good get out of jail for crap climbers like myself, wonder how it would be efficient it would be on 36/28?

39/28 will get you up anything in Ireland, including Mamore Gap and the mast up at Mount Leinster. That said, I think my knees would've thanked me for a 36/28 on those b@stard climbs.

magicbastarder

Casula wrote: »

39/28 will get you up anything in Ireland, including Mamore Gap and the mast up at Mount Leinster. That said, I think my knees would've thanked me for a 36/28 on those b@stard climbs.

name any gear ratio and you can claim it'll get you up any climb, if your legs are strong enough.

dahat

Casula wrote: »

39/28 will get you up anything in Ireland, including Mamore Gap and the mast up at Mount Leinster. That said, I think my knees would've thanked me for a 36/28 on those b@stard climbs.

I'd love to believe you on that one!

secman

My old steel frame runs a 52/42 with a 12/ 25 block. I tend to use the 52 for 90 % of the time, only dropping to 52 on climbs. Used to run that on a straight 12/ 19 block up to a few years ago. It's an old 8 speed job, actually did W 200.on that set up about 15 years ago, madness ! Changed it about 3 years ago , too old for that set up
Got a 2nd bike a cad 9 running on a 50/34 and a 12/28 block, much easier for hills

Casula

dahat wrote: »

I'd love to believe you on that one!

The avg speed on the climb to the mast at Mount Leinster with that set up was 5.8kph for 2.5k odd. That should give you an idea of the sort of "climbing" I was up to and maybe make it all a bit more believable.

Anyway, getting back to your original post I'm saying yae. Get rid of the compact and stick a 12/27 on the back wheel and get out there and ride your bike.

tuxy

Casula wrote: »

The avg speed on the climb to the mast at Mount Leinster with that set up was 5.8kph for 2.5k odd. That should give you an idea of the sort of "climbing" I was up to and maybe make it all a bit more believable.

Anyway, getting back to your original post I'm saying yae. Get rid of the compact and stick a 12/27 on the back wheel and get out there and ride your bike.

What was your cadence on that climb? You may have been faster if you could spin better.

Do Shimano even do a 12/27 in 11 speed?

Casula

tuxy wrote: »

What was your cadence on that climb? You may have been faster if you could spin better.

Do Shimano even do a 12/27 in 11 speed?

Emm, reckon about 30/40rpm. Was overgeared putting it mildly. Think 12/27 still exists in 10 speed land.

Plastik

I'm in the change camp. I spent my first few years riding on a compact and when I started racing paired it with a nice snappy 11/23 on the back. I've long since changed to a 53/39.

Regarding racing, I have been dropped with a 50/34 on the bike just the same as a 53/39. It won't be in the 50x11, or the 53x11 for that matter, that you run out of legs if you're only trying racing out. A 34 chainring is absolutely useless for racing. A 36 mildly useful. A 39 can be used on occasion.

Lumen

Plastik wrote: »

I'm in the change camp. I spent my first few years riding on a compact and when I started racing paired it with a nice snappy 11/23 on the back. I've long since changed to a 53/39.

Regarding racing, I have been dropped with a 50/34 on the bike just the same as a 53/39. It won't be in the 50x11, or the 53x11 for that matter, that you run out of legs if you're only trying racing out. A 34 chainring is absolutely useless for racing. A 36 mildly useful. A 39 can be used on occasion.

Well, a 34 chainring is useless for racing when you have a wide-range cassette (e.g. 11-28), but with an 11-25 it's only marginal.

I tend to do hard hill efforts at about 85rpm, which in 39x25 is about 16kph.

In my own crappy racing efforts I have seen speeds of 15-20kph for extended periods (e.g. the Snowtown on the Stamullen GP, or some multi-race I did out in hills near Limerick).

What about hillclimbs? I've gone as low as 13kph on the well-named "Ooh ya b*stard ramp" segment on Bohernabreena, and as low as 8kph for four minutes on the final ramp of Kilmashogue Lane (I spent most of that four minutes considering giving up cycling).

Other than hillclimbs you might also want to use the bike for hilly non-racing efforts without changing the chainset.

dahat

Lumen wrote: »

Well, a 34 chainring is useless for racing when you have a wide-range cassette (e.g. 11-28), but with an 11-25 it's only marginal.

I tend to do hard hill efforts at about 85rpm, which in 39x25 is about 16kph.

In my own crappy racing efforts I have seen speeds of 15-20kph for extended periods (e.g. the Snowtown on the Stamullen GP, or some multi-race I did out in hills near Limerick).

What about hillclimbs? I've gone as low as 13kph on the well-named "Ooh ya b*stard ramp" segment on Bohernabreena, and as low as 8kph for four minutes on the final ramp of Kilmashogue Lane (I spent most of that four minutes considering giving up cycling).

Other than hillclimbs you might also want to use the bike for hilly non-racing efforts without changing the chainset.

This has me thinking, could pick up such cassette handy and see how I go.

magicbastarder

one reason i stick to the 39 on my chainring most of the time is that there's a little bit of chatter when i use the big ring, unless i'm running to the three smallest rings on the freewheel. it's always been that way, regardless of how well the chain is lubed. would there be any misadjustment which coudl cause that?
running on the small ring, there's no chatter at all.

eeeee

I race on a compact.
Plenty of people in my club race on compacts, and do well at all levels.

If you can't hold a cadence of 110 you need to learn how to pedal.

You're not going to spin out 53x12.