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Painting a new build

  • 10-05-2016 11:15am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭


    Just about To get the house painted and looking for opinions.

    I've a guy lined up to spray but he's unavailable for a few weeks. I need to get a room or two finished to store furniture so I'm going to roll these myself at the weekend

    Rooms will be all white for the time being and I was in the hardware; they recommended dulux total cover pure brilliant white €24 for 10L. Fella said that he'd roll the walls and the ceiling with this and the only difference between total cover & dulux ceiling paint is the ceiling paint has a gel formula to avoid dripping when painting over head.


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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    And if possible can we avoid a "what does your architect say" I know there's a few of you out there itching to type it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭chillit


    hi hexosan

    I won't mention the "architect" :) but I'm not sure what your question is.

    If you are asking can you paint the ceiling with non ceiling specific paint then I would say there would be no problem doing that.

    The main thing with new houses is to make sure that the plaster is sufficiently dry and apply a coat of sealant (polybond or similar) before applying the paint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Would you need the polybond. I've been told to just waster down the first coat 10-15% with water. Walls are bone dry at the moment.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    hexosan wrote: »
    Would you need the polybond. I've been told to just waster down the first coat 10-15% with water. Walls are bone dry at the moment.

    I find the watering down option to be ok.
    Polybond only sits on the surface, not worth it - there are better concrete sealers outthere But unless the plasterer has left dry patches, don't bother.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭chillit


    watering down works too. It won't save you a coat though if that is what you are thinking. You will still more than likely need 3 coats on fresh plaster.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,381 ✭✭✭893bet


    For my new build I had two coats of white sprayed, 3 to ceiling. 2-3 coats finished colour dependin on colour.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    chillit wrote: »
    watering down works too. It won't save you a coat though if that is what you are thinking. You will still more than likely need 3 coats on fresh plaster.


    I'm aware the watered down coat won't save a coat. Just wanted to make sure this was ok to go ahead with.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    893bet wrote: »
    For my new build I had two coats of white sprayed, 3 to ceiling. 2-3 coats finished colour dependin on colour.

    That's my plan also, but on the walls where herself has committed to a colour I'll be getting them sprayed with a watered down coat of that colour and another coat before finishing with the roll. Painter said there was no point spraying white to then spray over it again with the chosen colour


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Is it best to do all painting, if possible, before any tiling/laminate floors go in so you don't need to be too careful? Is this not something you'd consider yourself Hex or would it just take too much time?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    Is it best to do all painting, if possible, before any tiling/laminate floors go in so you don't need to be too careful? Is this not something you'd consider yourself Hex or would it just take too much time?

    No I plan on painting first then floors, then skirting


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,768 ✭✭✭eyeball kid


    I just used the Dulux Pure Brilliant white as well for an undercoat on the ceilings and walls with no sealer. We had a buttermilk colour in most areas on the walls and only needed a single coat, it went on really well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    How do people rate Johnstone's paint. Going to get them to mix up a copy of a colour trend colour


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Got a 10L tub of the colour mixed up and I have to say I can't see the difference, €38 compared to about €95 for the colour trend


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Can I jump in here Hex and ask a few dumb questions?

    1. What's this with the first coat - water down the paint so it soaks in?
    2. Is spraying a much easier and quicker way rather than roller and brush and is this just for the professionals?
    3. Is it just too time consuming to DIY and best left to the professionals?
    4. Is it better to paint the ceilings with a separate 'ceiling paint' or just use one of the 'matt emulsions' that do both ceilings and walls?
    5. I've heard you SHOULD NOT paint in areas that might be tiled - obviously you don't need to anyway but it prevents good adhesion of the tiles to walls?
    5. My liquid screed floors are just in but walls were plastered in January - am I ready to go on the painting or is it better to let the floors dry out a bit first (moisture coming from them might impact paint on walls)?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    1. If it's not watered down, the dry plaster pulls the moisture out of the paint and it can crack or flake. Hense adding extra water 10/15%
    2. Spraying is way quicker but you'll still have to finish with a roller or brush
    3. If your handy with a sprayer it's easy but then isn't everything that way. If your not at it everyday I wouldn't chance it, you'll be looking at your cock up for a long time.
    4. I got dulux total cover Matt finish to use on the ceilings and as a base coat on the walls. I was talking to the Heiton Buckley rep yesterday and they have it on special offer at the min for 19/ 10L tub. That's the cheapist I've see it. My local HW was 23.65
    5. Yes avoid painting tiled areas I was told the same.
    6. There wasn't much moisture build up while my floors dried. Just leave all the windows on the security latch. If you spraying the floors before they're fully dry you have to cover them down. Otherwise the over spray (good lad spraying won't have much)can create a film on the floor and prevent it drying properly. This was in the does and don't from my screed supplier.


    Most lads spraying can do a house in two days, that's three coats on the ceiling and two on the walls. Then you can roll your chosen colours. I hate painting with a passion so I'd rather do an extra few hours in work doing what I'm good at and hand the cheque over to the painter who'll do the job right and in a tenth of the time. (I've discovered this during the course of the build on most jobs)
    BarneyMc wrote: »
    Can I jump in here Hex and ask a few dumb questions?

    1. What's this with the first coat - water down the paint so it soaks in?
    2. Is spraying a much easier and quicker way rather than roller and brush and is this just for the professionals?
    3. Is it just too time consuming to DIY and best left to the professionals?
    4. Is it better to paint the ceilings with a separate 'ceiling paint' or just use one of the 'matt emulsions' that do both ceilings and walls?
    5. I've heard you SHOULD NOT paint in areas that might be tiled - obviously you don't need to anyway but it prevents good adhesion of the tiles to walls?
    5. My liquid screed floors are just in but walls were plastered in January - am I ready to go on the painting or is it better to let the floors dry out a bit first (moisture coming from them might impact paint on walls)?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    hexosan wrote: »
    6. There wasn't much moisture build up while my floors dried. Just leave all the windows on the security latch. If you spraying the floors before they're fully dry you have to cover them down. Otherwise the over spray (good lad spraying won't have much)can create a film on the floor and prevent it drying properly. This was in the does and don't from my screed supplier.
    )

    So the floors drying shouldn't prevent painting the walls?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    No just make sure the floor doesn't get sprayed in splatter. Cover it down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    hexosan wrote: »
    No just make sure the floor doesn't get sprayed in splatter. Cover it down.

    Jeez, must get me paint brush out then!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Hex, regarding the Dulux total cover Matt finish (10L) are you providing this to the painters to spray the walls and ceilings. I see it's still on offer and might just scoop up some cans now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 461 ✭✭Czhornet


    hexosan wrote: »
    Would you need the polybond. I've been told to just waster down the first coat 10-15% with water. Walls are bone dry at the moment.

    Hi Hex,
    The painter who painted the inside of my house used polybond on the walls only. He said the when the plasterer is doing the final skim they can over rub it with the trowel and make it shiny and hard for the paint to stick, thats why the polybond acts like an adhesive between the walls and the paint.
    Also a professional painter will fill in all the little gaps and imperfections around switches, sockets and other areas not seen until painting. He sprayed ceilings (all coats) and the walls once with white, then rolled the walls with colour for the other coats. I've no complaints on finish quality 7 years later.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    Hex, regarding the Dulux total cover Matt finish (10L) are you providing this to the painters to spray the walls and ceilings. I see it's still on offer and might just scoop up some cans now.


    Yeah I'm supplying the paint


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Czhornet wrote: »
    Hi Hex,
    The painter who painted the inside of my house used polybond on the walls only. He said the when the plasterer is doing the final skim they can over rub it with the trowel and make it shiny and hard for the paint to stick, thats why the polybond acts like an adhesive between the walls and the paint.
    Also a professional painter will fill in all the little gaps and imperfections around switches, sockets and other areas not seen until painting. He sprayed ceilings (all coats) and the walls once with white, then rolled the walls with colour for the other coats. I've no complaints on finish quality 7 years later.

    I'm having the walls & ceiling sprayed but myself and the father will be rolling the walls for the finishing coat.
    I've asked the painter about polybond and he has said its not needed. Suppose only time will tell.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    I did a bit of Googling and came across this page which suggests watering down significantly - see second main paragraph here. Getting the same message here (no connection to this company).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,050 ✭✭✭✭murphaph


    Czhornet wrote: »
    Hi Hex,
    The painter who painted the inside of my house used polybond on the walls only. He said the when the plasterer is doing the final skim they can over rub it with the trowel and make it shiny and hard for the paint to stick, thats why the polybond acts like an adhesive between the walls and the paint.
    Also a professional painter will fill in all the little gaps and imperfections around switches, sockets and other areas not seen until painting. He sprayed ceilings (all coats) and the walls once with white, then rolled the walls with colour for the other coats. I've no complaints on finish quality 7 years later.
    Over here everyone uses an acrylic bonding before painting. I never really saw the point until I did it myself. Even on those green impregnated plasterboard sheets you can get away with 2 coats of white. It doesn't pull into the wall at all. I'll never paint again without it. I also heard it makes it much easier to remove wallpaper, should you ever go down this route.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    893bet wrote: »
    For my new build I had two coats of white sprayed, 3 to ceiling. 2-3 coats finished colour dependin on colour.

    Met up with a painter yesterday and got a good price so will let him at it. He said he would give all (walls and ceilings) 2 coats. Should I ask him to give the ceilings 3 coats or is 2 ok? He'll be spraying.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,381 ✭✭✭893bet


    For fresh plaster I think 3 to ceilings.

    Think about it. Your walls get two sprayed. Then you put on another 2-3 for finish.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    893bet wrote: »
    For fresh plaster I think 3 to ceilings.

    Think about it. Your walls get two sprayed. Then you put on another 2-3 for finish.


    +1 for this three coats to the ceilings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭chillit


    893bet wrote: »
    For fresh plaster I think 3 to ceilings.

    Think about it. Your walls get two sprayed. Then you put on another 2-3 for finish.

    Are you suggesting 2 sprayed coats and then 2-3 rolled coats? That would be 5 coats in total.

    That is excessive I think. On fresh plaster you should be able to get a correct finish with just 3 coats.

    It is a long time since I painted professionally but I did it for 4 summers about 20 years ago with a professional team. I can tell you that I wouldn't be getting paid in the evening if I put 5 coats of paint on the wall. The approach back then was one coat of sealant the 2 coats of paint. Ceilings maybe somethings got a third coat but that was rare enough. Nobody ever complained and as I understand it the painting company had a good reputation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,381 ✭✭✭893bet


    Just saying what happened for my build. Walls got 2 coats of white undercoat. Then 2-3coats for finish coat depending on the color. Funny enough it was the lightest color paint that needed 3 coats to achieve perfect coverage. Darker colours only needed 2 finish coats.

    Finish is immaculate.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 188 ✭✭Southern Comfort


    hexosan wrote: »
    How do people rate Johnstone's paint. Going to get them to mix up a copy of a colour trend colour

    I use Johnstones paint quite a lot and find it great. (Interior and exterior)

    Colortrend is superb paint but is much more expensive.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Painters are starting on Monday morning to apply base coats. There are some walls in the main bathroom which I don't think will be tiled. Is it best to just tell them to avoid all bathroom walls or is it ok to mark certain walls as ok to paint. I'm just thinking ahead and whether the final coats will look slightly different if base coats are applied at different times and methods (spray v brush).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    hexosan wrote: »
    No just make sure the floor doesn't get sprayed in splatter. Cover it down.

    The lads were in today and got 2 coats sprayed on the walls and ceilings upstairs. They'll apply another coat to the ceilings tomorrow and then move on to the ground floor.

    Unfortunately some spray got onto the ground floor just below the stairs area. I'll have to take sandpaper to it at the weekend and hope for the best. Luckily the area is not that big.

    Looks like my Dulux Total Cover Matt is almost done so will have to pick up some more tomorrow. I saw some Fleetwood paint for newly plastered walls today - any good anyone?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Day 2 and the lads got all finished. Very pleased and another job ticked off! I'll post pics at the weekend.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Some pics here and also some pics showing the floor sprayed. Is it ok or should I try and remove this spray?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Before I apply the finished coats, should I fill all gaps with something like Pollyfilla or is there a better product out there?

    By the way I was in a big chain DIY supplier up north yesterday and the paint is so much cheaper there - BIG savings to be made.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    Before I apply the finished coats, should I fill all gaps with something like Pollyfilla or is there a better product out there?

    By the way I was in a big chain DIY supplier up north yesterday and the paint is so much cheaper there - BIG savings to be made.

    Hell yes - get a few tubes of Builders caulk & polyfil - fill all gaps before finishing paint coat goes on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    BryanF wrote: »
    Hell yes - get a few tubes of Builders caulk & polyfil - fill all gaps before finishing paint coat goes on

    What's the difference between the caulk and polyfil?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    What's the difference between the caulk and polyfil?

    Painters Caulk in the tube/gun application is quick for skirting/architraves basically everything that's just a small gap often using your finger to smooth like you would if it were silicone. Polyfil imho is for the slightly bigger hole that need sanding etc after trowel applying

    Just my two cents as DIY painter


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭db


    The caulk is slightly flexible so won't crack where there is slight movement of the surfaces like with timber architrave or skirting. It is easier to apply to a long straight run. I find that the bead sits above the gap you want to fill and the easiest thing to do is push it in with a filling knife / scraper. Wipe off any excess with a damp cloth. It is easiest if you have finished the timber surface first as the excess will just slide off.

    Polyfilla is best if you have minor settlement cracks in the plaster. Run a blade along the crack and then just push in the filler with a filling knife. Sand off the excess as soon as it is dry.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    db wrote: »
    Polyfilla is best if you have minor settlement cracks in the plaster. Run a blade along the crack and then just push in the filler with a filling knife. Sand off the excess as soon as it is dry.

    Do you put the blade into the crack to make a meaningful gap to then fill with the Polyfilla? Or is it a scraping movement with the blade you need to make?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭db


    I used a flat blade screwdriver and ran it along the crack. You just need enough to get the polyfilla in and when you sand it back all you will see is the line. Get a pack of powder filler and mix it up as you need it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    I had a quick go at this but it turned out a bit rough. A bit of sanding when it had dried up helped. I'll try and make the crack a bit bigger next time. This video sort of helps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuRn-V1ISBg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    I was applying my primer coat (watered down paint) yesterday and notice these blotches in places. I've still another white coat to apply and then 2 coats of coloured paint but does anyone know if these blotches will come through to the finished surface and if so how to get rid of now?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 294 ✭✭Bad_alibi


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    I was applying my primer coat (watered down paint) yesterday and notice these blotches in places. I've still another white coat to apply and then 2 coats of coloured paint but does anyone know if these blotches will come through to the finished surface and if so how to get rid of now?

    Sounds like mapping, have you a pic. If it is it's a pain in the hole


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Bad_alibi wrote: »
    Sounds like mapping, have you a pic. If it is it's a pain in the hole

    Sorry, thought I had attached a pic! I hope it's not mapping... whatever that is!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    I did a search for 'mapping' and this thread seems to confirm what I have: http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055091354

    Luckily I had a painter in to spray the entire house and I'm just doing some small areas in bathrooms that were left. Still it's a bloody pain I could have done without!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 294 ✭✭Bad_alibi


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    Sorry, thought I had attached a pic! I hope it's not mapping... whatever that is!


    Sorry to say that it looks like mapping.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 86 ✭✭Tom Hagen


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    Some pics here and also some pics showing the floor sprayed. Is it ok or should I try and remove this spray?


    hi barney, whats that flapping around at the bottom of the walls? airtightness tape? or dpm or sumtin? or just masking tape for painting ? :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Tom Hagen wrote: »
    hi barney, whats that flapping around at the bottom of the walls? airtightness tape? or dpm or sumtin? or just masking tape for painting ? :confused:

    Nothing gets past you Ton Hagen! It's air tightness tape for the floor-wall junction, so it is.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 86 ✭✭Tom Hagen


    BarneyMc wrote: »
    Nothing gets past you Ton Hagen! It's air tightness tape for the floor-wall junction, so it is.

    should that not be fully tightly sealed to the floor?
    looks like its loosely flapping around down there. I haven't done mine yet so i don't really know anything about it. so just curious :confused:


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