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Cavity Wall Insulation New Build

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    #32
    MicktheMan
    Registered Users Posts: 2,832 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    BOARDHOG wrote: »
    What would you recommend.

    This may seem facetious (it's not meant to be) but get expert professional advice.:)


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    #33
    BOARDHOG
    Registered Users Posts: 26 ✭BOARDHOG


    Not up to date on airtightness targets. Windows and doors shall be sealed and upstairs ceiling. I will have a read back through the threads to understand where your coming from.


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    #34
    BOARDHOG
    Registered Users Posts: 26 ✭BOARDHOG


    I have received professional advice from the BER assesor who is a professional. Professionals can give contradicting advice. That is why I am posting here to see other views and advice. So other views and advice would be appreciated.


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    #35
    MicktheMan
    Registered Users Posts: 2,832 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    BOARDHOG wrote: »
    I have received professional advice from the BER assesor who is a professional. Professionals can give contradicting advice. That is why I am posting here to see other views and advice. So other views and advice would be appreciated.

    Quite true; Doctors differ and patients die!

    That is why I suggested "expert" professional advice. Your BER assessor might well be a professional and capable of inputting data into a computer and producing a BER cert but that does in no way make him/her an expert, unfortunately.

    You now have been given a heads-up that your spec is poor in the extreme by a couple of randomers on the www.

    So how do you decide who to believe?

    As I said in my first reply, you might want to read back through all the (hundreds of) threads that have dealt with this ad nauseum.

    Otherwise, you might well be calling me in my professional capacity to ask "why am I cold in my super insulated home" or "why am I getting mould in my house"


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    #36
    BOARDHOG
    Registered Users Posts: 26 ✭BOARDHOG


    I have read back through some threads. I understand a little better now. So basically thermal looping is a problem which is air getting in around your board from poor workmanship. Therefore you have your expensive insulation boards in your cavity to no effect. Is cavity bead fill the better option in your opinion and if so how do I keep it to spec.


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    #37
    MicktheMan
    Registered Users Posts: 2,832 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    BOARDHOG wrote: »
    So basically thermal looping is a problem which is air getting in around your board from poor workmanship.

    This is just one of many issues with your specification. Read up on thermal mass, thermal bridging, interstitial condensation, mould, ventilation, air tightness.
    BOARDHOG wrote: »
    1.Is cavity bead fill the better option in your opinion
    2. and if so how do I keep it to spec.
    1. yes
    2. ask your BER assessor


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    #38
    adrianegan3
    Registered Users Posts: 35 ✭adrianegan3


    hexosan wrote: »
    I built with a 250mm full fill cavity but if I was doing it again I'd only go 200mm. The difference between the two is minimal and for the extra cost I'll never see it back in a saving in heating cost.

    Hi just querying looking into starting new build what was the extra cost on 250mm vs 200mm was this down to wall ties is there a big increase in insulation cost


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    #39
    FiOT
    Registered Users Posts: 149 ✭✭FiOT


    adrianegan3 wrote: »
    Hi just querying looking into starting new build what was the extra cost on 250mm vs 200mm was this down to wall ties is there a big increase in insulation cost

    I built with 200m pumped cavity and attention to airtightness. Just to give you an idea of how I find it so far.
    We had our underfloor on for 9 days to dry out the screed approximately 3/4 months ago. Doors are open every night and all day at the weekend while we are working and the lowest I've seen the thermostat go so far was 16.4 degrees, that was last night and it was back up to 17 when we were all leaving just from the lights/body heat in the house.

    I find it brilliant anyway!


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