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fridge service parts

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    #32
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    How long is the cable run in meters so? I may have underestimated the cable you need.

    Battery condition comes into it if it's cream crackered and your alternator is running full field trying to charge dead cells. Check the battery terminal voltage under load with a voltmeter if it's 5V get rid before it leaks.

    True, well should be ~14V in ~14v out. Is there 12volt going in though or do you disconnect the cable in order to test it?


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    #33
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    the wire when disconnected is approx. 12 v+ when connected and measured on the terminal it's connnected to it has dropped off the scale. I can't understand that. surely there should still be 12v+ at that stage before the relay is opened?


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    #34
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Could be a crap termination, rusted up, insulation not stripped properly, loose from overheating or not compressed properly, lots of things. Sometimes it's quicker just reterminate as you go.

    If when you measure 5v at the relay, check the battery and if the battery is 12v the problem is downstream. If the battery is 5V case closed it's feckered.

    An open switch = not operating, a closed switch = operating.
    If the relay is open it should be 12v at the 30 terminal and 0v at the 87.
    If the relay is closed it will read the same voltage at the 30 terminal and the 87 which is not necessarily going to be 12v in a problematic circuit. Just pull the holder back enough so you can get a test probe on the relay blade but don't disconnect it next time.

    It should be 12v in and out but that's the issue we're trying to resolve. It doesn't mean the relay is the problem that's just the test point.


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    #35
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    terminal is bright and shiny and tight, relay is new (replaced old one unnecessarily in all likelihood). I'm sure that's not it.

    As i keep saying, the feed from the battery is 12v+ (pprobably 13.5 according to the reading on the dash gauge)

    Measured on the input terminal with wire attached, it's probably 5v . It doesn't make sense.Anything that wire is properly attached to should read the same as the wire, surely.


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    #36
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    and the connecting females are perfect too?

    V=IR
    Heavy loads cause voltage drop.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_drop


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    #37
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    anyway, drawing a line under all that.....I need a 12v feed to the fridge which for some reason I don't have. This may be the reason the fridge isn't working too good on 12 v. I have 12 volts before the relay so I am going to temporarily bypass the relay and see what the fridge does when it has 12v connected. This will tell me if the element works or not, which is what I really need to know.


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    #38
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    I'll report back tomorrow.. :-)

    Thanks fro brainstorming session.

    It's gtting a bit clearer to me


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    #39
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    OK checked terminals on relay they are all correct now. with fridge switched off there is full voltage arriving at the relay. With fridge on this drops as I guess would be normal. Both batteries are charging Ok it seems.

    Thinking laterally, the only thing actually running off the leisure batteries is the inside lights with the addition of the fridge running via it when driving. I actually don't need the leisure battery at all really as I tend not to use the lights anyway (go to sleep when it's dark, wake after dawn...) but I think I'll leave it running the fridge so that the main battery is separate from the fridge.

    Van is sitting outside running with fridge on to see if it's working. There is power going to the fridge and the circuit for the former sparker is isolated.

    If the fridge doesn't cool down in a reasonable time, I'll get a new element as I think that's about the only bit that could be faulty.


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    #40
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    OK checked terminals on relay they are all correct now. with fridge switched off there is full voltage arriving at the relay. With fridge on this drops as I guess would be normal. Both batteries are charging Ok it seems.

    Thinking laterally, the only thing actually running off the leisure batteries is the inside lights with the addition of the fridge running via it when driving. I actually don't need the leisure battery at all really as I tend not to use the lights anyway (go to sleep when it's dark, wake after dawn...) but I think I'll leave it running the fridge so that the main battery is separate from the fridge.

    Van is sitting outside running with fridge on to see if it's working. There is power going to the fridge and the circuit for the former sparker is isolated.

    If the fridge doesn't cool down in a reasonable time, I'll get a new element as I think that's about the only bit that could be faulty.


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    #41
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    A drop of 9v is not normal. Did you check the battery voltage under load? Did you have an accurate portable voltmeter? How long are the cables and what gauge?
    Have you a thermometer in the fridge now or an ice tray?
    I can tell from here your element isn't the problem.


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    #42
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    as I have said before I have neither a multimeter or know how to use one . I have a basic voltmeter that checks battery and alternator condition so it is no doubt very inaccurate to use it the way I am. The fridge does seem to be getting colder though.... and the battery is holding it's own.


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    #43
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    just checked it...it is definitely working now, possibly not brilliantly but enough to maintain the cold after running on gas when parked. Thanks for the help.


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    #44
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    An auto-ranging multimeter works pretty much the same way an alternator tester does except with more accuracy and features for the same money.
    Pretty essential tool for electrical work.

    Alls well that ends well.


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    #45
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    another problem now. Why won't my fridge stay alight? Sometimes it goes out for no particular reason or goes out when you slam the door. Sometimes it stays alight for hours
    Does it need a new jet I wonder or can I clean the existing jet?
    Would it be the regulator at fault?
    any idea what jet I would need for a Electrolux RM122F. It's the old model , not compatible with the newer ones hence I can't just buy a replacement.

    (Gets lovely and hot on 12v so I assume that's OK now)

    edit:
    I've dismantled what I could and cleaned and it's running away nicely on gas at present.


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    #46
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    savagethegoat wrote: »
    (Gets lovely and hot on 12v so I assume that's OK now)

    Some fans would save you a lottov gas and boost the cooling performance. The idea is to remove heat.


    It's possible your pilot light is misaligned to the vent and it keeps getting blown out with the door pressure/driving.


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    #47
    savagethegoat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,297 ✭✭✭savagethegoat


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    Some fans would save you a lottov gas and boost the cooling performance. The idea is to remove heat.


    It's possible your pilot light is misaligned to the vent and it keeps getting blown out with the door pressure/driving.

    I meant the element and the flue are getting nice and hot....the idea being to exchange heat in the heat exchanger I imagine. Anyway, it stayed alight much better post clean up, with ice forming and when switched to 12v, maintained that ice for an hour before I shut it down, so I think I've got it cracked as far as you can with an old fridge.

    Thanks for the reply


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    #48
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    The pilot/element heats the evaporator which pulls heat from the fridge innards transfers it to a condenser that tries to vent it to the atmosphere it's a thermodynamic cycle. If you cool the condenser it can do the same work for less buthane/electrons which also means it'll do more work (get colder in warmer ambient) for the same power.

    Fair play on the guerilla service. If you baffle the pilot light you'll stand a much better chance that gusts won't extinguish it.


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