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Best winter wheel

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    #32
    Borderfox
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 10,257 Mod ✭✭✭✭Borderfox


    Review here
    http://road.cc/content/review/140076-superstar-components-pave-28-wheelset


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    #33
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Any chance you could post the exact link to what you purchased ?

    Any why debating now after making the decision, is there something about them now that you see them that you don't like ?

    I need a rear wheel but as it is very difficult to find a split set I am contemplating buying

    http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/elite-24-ultra-11speed-wheelset-2024.htm

    and trying to move on my almost new zonda front wheel.

    Purchased these, weight a little more than advertised 1492 but this is due to the rim tape which is not include in their weights. See photos.

    Spokes are thin along the lines of the Zonda.

    Hubs run free but not as free as a Planet X 60mm wheel I have.

    Will know more when use them.


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    #34
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Can anybody tell me what the small holes in the hub and the front wheel are for ?

    Also with the front wheel I was wondering about a small gap below the hole and was wondering why it is not flush ? Surely grime will get in there.


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    #35
    ashleey
    Registered Users Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭ashleey


    Allows water out. In bad weather those sections fill with water via the spoke holes in the rims


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    #36
    Mefistofelino
    Registered Users Posts: 1,769 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Can anybody tell me what the small holes in the hub and the front wheel are for ?

    Also with the front wheel I was wondering about a small gap below the hole and was wondering why it is not flush ? Surely grime will get in there.

    I suspect those hubs are actually manufactured by Miche (they make OEM hubs for a variety of wheelmakers). The "hole" in the front wheel is actually a grub screw - probably 2 or 2.5mm hex - that is used to lock the end cap onto the axle and pre-load the bearing (in as much as you can pre-load cartridge bearings). To close up the cap, you undo the grub screw (don't lose it!) and, putting a hex key in either end of the axle, wind it up until the gap closes (but not too tight as the wheel will bind on the axle). Once that is done, you can tighten the grub screw again to "lock" it in place.

    The Miche website has some poorly translated tech manuals covering their hubs. The illustrations should make it a bit clearer.

    http://www.miche.it/en/service/istruzioni/mozzi-2


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    #37
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    ashleey wrote: »
    Allows water out. In bad weather those sections fill with water via the spoke holes in the rims

    But the rims are nowhere near those holes. Presume it is allowing water out that enters in other places


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    #38
    Subcomandante Marcos
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,683 ✭✭✭Subcomandante Marcos


    32 hole Deore XT with DT Swiss spokes and mavic open pro rims is pretty much bomb and weather proof.


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    #39
    OleRodrigo
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭OleRodrigo


    Subcomandante Marcos wrote: »
    32 hole Deore XT with DT Swiss spokes and mavic open pro rims is pretty much bomb and weather proof.

    Not so sure about Open Pros on 11 speed drivetrains. Quite a few problems with spokes breaking and wheels going out of true. Purely anecdotal though.


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    #40
    ashleey
    Registered Users Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭ashleey


    harringtonp wrote: »
    But the rims are nowhere near those holes. Presume it is allowing water out that enters in other places

    Sorry. Thought you meant in the rim section not in the hubs. Hopefully no water is getting into the hubs or they won't be good winter wheels at all!


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    #41
    letape
    Registered Users Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭letape


    OleRodrigo wrote: »
    Not so sure about Open Pros on 11 speed drivetrains. Quite a few problems with spokes breaking and wheels going out of true. Purely anecdotal though.

    I have open pros on campag record hubs with 11 speed cassette and they have never given any problems. I have a set with 28 spokes and another with 32. Both have been very reliable.


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    #42
    OleRodrigo
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭OleRodrigo


    letape wrote: »
    I have open pros on campag record hubs with 11 speed cassette and they have never given any problems. I have a set with 28 spokes and another with 32. Both have been very reliable.

    I knew as soon as I posted that there would be somebody on to contradict me.:)

    Some lads in the club and some boardsies having problems with rims that are usually very reliable. Rear wheel, drive side on 11 speed seems to be the common denominator.


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    #43
    Koobcam
    Registered Users Posts: 828 ✭✭✭Koobcam


    I have a set of DT swiss M 1900 Spline wheels on my cyclocross bike, which I use as a winter bike & commuter by just sticking on road tyres. The wheels are really heavy but very solid and able to take a good beating. I've had the cx bike (and the wheels) on the go for the best part of 2 years with only a small bit of hub servicing required. I only discovered recently that they're also tubeless compatible (which explains why it's so hard to fit road tyres on them). Not sure though if they have a rim brake option. In general though, I think DT swiss make good solid budget wheels which would be ideal for winter riding. The DB23 or 24 would be good options which definitely come in rim brake options and have relatively wide rims, meaning wide tyres will work well, so you could fit a set of 28mm GO 4 seasons or similar and have a perfect winter set up.


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    #44
    ashleey
    Registered Users Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭ashleey


    Koobcam wrote: »
    I have a set of DT swiss M 1900 Spline wheels on my cyclocross bike, which I use as a winter bike & commuter by just sticking on road tyres. The wheels are really heavy but very solid and able to take a good beating. I've had the cx bike (and the wheels) on the go for the best part of 2 years with only a small bit of hub servicing required. I only discovered recently that they're also tubeless compatible (which explains why it's so hard to fit road tyres on them). Not sure though if they have a rim brake option. In general though, I think DT swiss make good solid budget wheels which would be ideal for winter riding. The DB23 or 24 would be good options which definitely come in rim brake options and have relatively wide rims, meaning wide tyres will work well, so you could fit a set of 28mm GO 4 seasons or similar and have a perfect winter set up.

    I would agree on DT Swiss r1900, although I snapped a spoke on a back wheel and with tension messed up it was never right and snapped spokes again. I have the Spline R23 on a Canyon now and got a flat this afternoon. Getting the tyre off the rim (Grand Prix 4000s 2 clincher) was the toughest I've ever had to attempt. Broke a lever.

    The hubs run better than Mavic Ksyrium elite and fulcrum racing Quattro though.


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    #45
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Mefistofelino wrote: »
    I suspect those hubs are actually manufactured by Miche (they make OEM hubs for a variety of wheelmakers). The "hole" in the front wheel is actually a grub screw - probably 2 or 2.5mm hex - that is used to lock the end cap onto the axle and pre-load the bearing (in as much as you can pre-load cartridge bearings). To close up the cap, you undo the grub screw (don't lose it!) and, putting a hex key in either end of the axle, wind it up until the gap closes (but not too tight as the wheel will bind on the axle). Once that is done, you can tighten the grub screw again to "lock" it in place.

    The Miche website has some poorly translated tech manuals covering their hubs. The illustrations should make it a bit clearer.

    http://www.miche.it/en/service/istruzioni/mozzi-2


    Hi,

    Need to do some maintenance on the front wheel which sounds quite rough but cannot figure out how to take the hub apart. The link above doesn't work anymore. The ends of the axle are round and don't take a hex key. Any ideas how to dismantle ? I can remove the grub screws but nothing falls out as a result.


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