Froth in Receiving Jar..

alps

At peak milk times of the year we have a serious problem with froth in the receiving jar. It's can be so bad at times that we have to run the milk pump continuously. Has anyone had a similar problem, and could it lead to milk fat damage and lower milk fat test results. would appreciate any help.

satstheway

Same problem here have hat to take off machines on very bad occasions. Only at peak.

mf240

Same problem here a few times in the last couple of weeks.

Had to run pump full aswell. And then of course forget to change it back!!

Was going to try milking without a filter sock to see if the jar emptied quicker.

Its a major pain .

_Brian

Depending on the lid and setup it can help to swing out the spreader for washing the jar during milking.
It deflects the milk down the jar and so it creates less froth by not falling directly into the milk in the jar.

Doesn't always work but worth a try.

satstheway

Would an anti vortex plate help it empty quicker

alps

Any issues in running the milk pump full time, other than the noise of it??..
The froting in ours is is definitely happening before the receiving jar..you can see it arriving in from the milk pipe..

_Brian

It's ok if your sure it never runs dry for very long.
I never liked the notion f them running dry for any length of time I think it would be hard on the shaft seals.

I'm not sure the vortex plate will help. The froth isn't there because the pump can't empty the jar but rather the speed of milk entering the jar and the vertical drop. Running the pump full time just removes the milk from the jar so milk entering has nothing to splash into and froth.
It's a balls of a problem and near identical machines often don't have the problem.

Pacoa

Had that problem here and milking machine guy put a small pipe in from the top of the jar through the lid so that it sucks a small bit of air in and the bubbles break up the froth. Improved it a good bit so might be worth checking out.

Greengrass1

And I'm only on row 2 out of 13

bt12

froth seems to be worse this year, have tried alot of methods
shower head is giving best results , air bleed is only average, dome type
reciever have also helped alot the pounding of milk in glass jars drives it mad

_Brian

alps wrote: »

Any issues in running the milk pump full time, other than the noise of it??..
The froting in ours is is definitely happening before the receiving jar..you can see it arriving in from the milk pipe..

MAybe air leakage in air bleeds or claws or milk line if its frothy before receiver jar..

whelan2

we got rid of the jar and put in a very big stainless steel vessel instead, might over spill once a week at this time of year but thats it, only due to alot of recordig jars emptying into it together

alps

Yes Brian, could be the air bleeds. Milk tubes really "hopping" at the point they drop into the top of the milk line. It's a 3 inch milk line and the milk can still shoot through in gushes.
Apart from trying to find the remedy here, can these issues damage fats and lead to reduced test levels. That was welcome when we had a fat quota. ..All different now..

kowtow

I notice some alfa receivers (from Holland afaik) have the milk entrance in the side of the jar. Was told it was better for washing & also cut out frothing but have no personal experience.

I think the anti-vortex plate solves a different problem (pump cutting in but not able to empty) - presumably froth would make this worse but the plate wouldn't stop the froth.

Milked out

The double diaphragm pump in our machine gave up last year and we put in an electric milk pump while we were finding a new one and with the electric pump it was a disaster couldn't milk 5 cows without the jar filling with froth, no issues with the double diaphragm. However there is a lot of froth in the bulk tank all the time.

frazzledhome

Fat is really delicate and any extra air drawing or pumping will affect your sample. If you put cream in a jam jar and shake for 3-4 mins you'll get an idea of how its structure changes.

We would only use a variable speed milk pump as it will change speed depending on amount of milk flowing.

Our parlours are Delaval with 3" milk lines entering receiving vessel from the side this frothing is not an issue.If it was me I'd be sorting out this frothing ASAP as its compromising your sample and costing money.

Brown Podzol

Milk entering from the side here and frothing dosen't seem to be a problem. Stanless steel 50ltr vessel from Fullwood.
This debate is going on for years and I herd a fellow say once that froth was a problem for him only when oilseed rape meal was included in the ration.
Local milking machine man was saying that he is taking a supply of cooled milk from the other side of the plate cooler and putting it into the top of the receiving vessel and spraying over the milk in the jar, says it works.

Viewtodiefor

frazzledhome wrote: »

Fat is really delicate and any extra air drawing or pumping will affect your sample. If you put cream in a jam jar and shake for 3-4 mins you'll get an idea of how its structure changes.

We would only use a variable speed milk pump as it will change speed depending on amount of milk flowing.

Our parlours are Delaval with 3" milk lines entering receiving vessel from the side this frothing is not an issue.If it was me I'd be sorting out this frothing ASAP as its compromising your sample and costing money.

You probably wouldn't have the volume of milk coming off those cress breeds to cause frothing Frazz . More of a problem with higher yielders

frazzledhome

Viewtodiefor wrote: »

You probably wouldn't have the volume of milk coming off those cress breeds to cause frothing Frazz . More of a problem with higher yielders

Cows doing 29 litres and heifers on 26 being put through at about 150/hr I'd say there would be froth alright

whelan2

everything filled up this morning, going to check in plate cooler later , milk doesnt seem to be going as fast as it should

_Brian

whelan2 wrote: »

everything filled up this morning, going to check in plate cooler later , milk doesnt seem to be going as fast as it should

Filter before plate cooler helps keep it clean. But opening them is a horrible job. If the gaskets start moving you just feel like running away screaming.

cjpm

_Brian wrote: »

Filter before plate cooler helps keep it clean. But opening them is a horrible job. If the gaskets start moving you just feel like running away screaming.

Ha! no need to run away screaming. A few tiny drops of superglue can make a big difference, keeping the gasket to the plate until you squeeze them all up again.

whelan2

_Brian wrote: »

Filter before plate cooler helps keep it clean. But opening them is a horrible job. If the gaskets start moving you just feel like running away screaming.

thought there was someting wrong with sock. took that out during milking and it was clear, we got a flush system in before christmas and it keeps the bleedhole clear in the plate cooler

cjpm

On the frothing issue, is there any air being sucked up through the pipe going into bulk tank? Obviously when the milk pump is not running.

I'm not familiar with the system, however with a diaphragm pump there is a non return valve that prevents air and milk being sucked back into the receiver jar from the bulk tank.

We used to have a problem with froth in the bulk tank. What we discovered was causing it was the pipe dropping the milk into the tank. This pipe was a vertical stainless steel pipe 3 ft long. Turns out that the milk was dropping in it so fast it was creating a syphon effect. Replaced the pipe with a longer length of rubber hose at an angle and the frothing stopped.

Sam Kade

Surely newer bulk tanks cool milk fast without need for a plate cooler? I've a 25 year old Mueller dx tank that cools the milk before I turn off the milking machine no need for a plate cooler.

milkprofit

Sam Kade wrote: »

Surely newer bulk tanks cool milk fast without need for a plate cooler? I've a 25 year old Mueller dx tank that cools the milk before I turn off the milking machine no need for a plate cooler.

Yep but plate cooler reduces coat of cooling

whelan2

did the in plate cooler, bleedhole was clear, 2 of the plates where stuck together with ****e:eek:, last tbc was 15

frazzledhome

cjpm wrote: »

Ha! no need to run away screaming. A few tiny drops of superglue can make a big difference, keeping the gasket to the plate until you squeeze them all up again.

Thank you for that tip:):)

I've used more bad language putting plate cooler together than at any other job. I'm off to the 'the best thing you've learned on Boards' thread now;)

whelan2

frazzledhome wrote: »

Thank you for that tip:):)

I've used more bad language putting plate cooler together than at any other job. I'm off to the 'the best thing you've learned on Boards' thread now;)

Very hard not to cut the hands/arms of yourself too

frazzledhome

whelan2 wrote: »

Very hard not to cut the hands/arms of yourself too

+1:mad:

mf240

I took out the plate cooler and fcuked it into the scrap . Im not putting it back either . Ye cant make me:cool::cool: