What width is your tedder

Reggie.

Sorry but I'm on about machinery again

Just wondering to anyone that has tedders. What size is it?

Currently starting to shop for one for the summer and there is a blinding array of sizes.

Looking for one that can take 3 10ft rows if required so would a 7.7m be amble enough?.

Don't want to buy one thats too small and regret it afterwards.

mahoney_j

Reggie. wrote: »

Sorry but I'm on about machinery again

Just wondering to anyone that has tedders. What size is it?

Currently starting to shop for one for the summer and there is a blinding array of sizes.

Looking for one that can take 3 10ft rows if required so would a 7.7m be amble enough?.

Don't want to buy one thats too small and regret it afterwards.

I've a lely stabilo 675 reggie,throws out 3 10 ft swaths no bother.as regards size not a clue

Milked out

mahoney_j wrote: »

I've a lely stabilo 675 reggie,throws out 3 10 ft swaths no bother.as regards size not a clue

Would that throw out swaths from a heavy first cut mj? Say a crop growing for 8 to 10 weeks if weather delayed cutting etc

mahoney_j

Milked out wrote: »

Would that throw out swaths from a heavy first cut mj? Say a crop growing for 8 to 10 weeks if weather delayed cutting etc

Yep ,the key is a low forward speed with good revs ,do all my tedding in first gear..throwing out 3 10 foots you get through ground pretty quick

Reggie.

mahoney_j wrote: »

I've a lely stabilo 675 reggie,throws out 3 10 ft swaths no bother.as regards size not a clue

That's a 6.75m tedder I think

It's like this one is it

http://www.donedeal.ie/haybobs-for-sale/lely-lotus-675-stabilo-tedder/8391651

mahoney_j

Reggie. wrote: »

That's a 6.75m tedder I think

It's like this one is it

http://www.donedeal.ie/haybobs-for-sale/lely-lotus-675-stabilo-tedder/8391651

Yep that the one.just be careful with second hand machine.check each rotor for play and insist on seeing machine running.

White Clover

Reggie. wrote: »

That's a 6.75m tedder I think

Open to correction on this but I think 675 stands for 6 rotors and 7.5m working width

Reggie.

White Clover wrote: »

Open to correction on this but I think 675 stands for 6 rotors and 7.5m working width

Ok could be wrong on that last statement

Dawggone

Reggie. wrote: »

Sorry but I'm on about machinery again

Just wondering to anyone that has tedders. What size is it?

Currently starting to shop for one for the summer and there is a blinding array of sizes.

Looking for one that can take 3 10ft rows if required so would a 7.7m be amble enough?.

Don't want to buy one thats too small and regret it afterwards.

Don't apologise for buying machines Reggie!
Just because guys on here think it's cool not to spend a few quid on a milking parlor even though it's the most important machine on a dairy farm and used 10 months of the year...
The ones I have are 7.5 meters I think but I would recommend seeing it working on very heavy and wet grass to be sure the crown and pinion gears are all ok.

Vicon ( soft shyte) and krone here.
Krone is good, strong, and reliable.
When they give trouble they are a pita.

mahoney_j

Dawggone wrote: »

Don't apologise for buying machines Reggie!
Just because guys on here think it's cool not to spend a few quid on a milking parlor even though it's the most important machine on a dairy farm and used 10 months of the year...
The ones I have are 7.5 meters I think but I would recommend seeing it working on very heavy and wet grass to be sure the crown and pinion gears are all ok.

Vicon ( soft shyte) and krone here.
Krone is good, strong, and reliable.
When they give trouble they are a pita.

Gwannnnn dwag,run for cover before before the cavalry arrive.your right about seen it running before purchase,bought my second hand lely about 5 years ago,came in from Holland ,loads of work done but well minded and greased.goingbto need a bit of work before this years season,bearings on 3 of the rotors and few other minor bits.the one piece of kit I wouldn't do without for bales or pit

Greengrass1

mahoney_j wrote: »

Gwannnnn dwag,run for cover before before the cavalry arrive.your right about seen it running before purchase,bought my second hand lely about 5 years ago,came in from Holland ,loads of work done but well minded and greased.goingbto need a bit of work before this years season,bearings on 3 of the rotors and few other minor bits.the one piece of kit I wouldn't do without for bales or pit

Why would he run for cover?

mahoney_j

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Why would he run for cover?

Cause if I made a statement like that re parlours bla bla bla I know the replies is be getting.anyway wrong thread tedders are proably a gimmick and a luxury as well ,what's wrong with a 2 spring fork 😀😀😀😀😀

Dawggone

mahoney_j wrote: »

Gwannnnn dwag,run for cover before before the cavalry arrive.your right about seen it running before purchase,bought my second hand lely about 5 years ago,came in from Holland ,loads of work done but well minded and greased.goingbto need a bit of work before this years season,bearings on 3 of the rotors and few other minor bits.the one piece of kit I wouldn't do without for bales or pit

Students have a bit of a habit of not slowing down for large lumps of wet grass with bad results.
In future I will change after a few seasons because the days you need them you don't need hassle of repairs.
Now to find a "victim" for a Vicon sac du merde!!
The Dutch would be good enough to mind kit and the cuts wouldn't be toooo heavy in fairness.
I doctored up the pinion gears in the last Vicon using shims but I know well it didn't last p1ssing time.

Greengrass1

mahoney_j wrote: »

Cause if I made a statement like that re parlours bla bla bla I know the replies is be getting.anyway wrong thread tedders are proably a gimmick and a luxury as well ,what's wrong with a 2 spring fork 😀😀😀😀😀

Nothing what spending money. At the right time though

Dawggone

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Nothing what spending money. At the right time though

Sometimes you have to spend money to make money.

Greengrass1

Dawggone wrote: »

Sometimes you have to spend money to make money.

That's very true

mahoney_j

Dawggone wrote: »

Sometimes you have to spend money to make money.

Bang on and having the balls to back yourself is cruical,only U know ur own accounts and whatever farm wants and needs to make it as efficient as possible .a too many opinions is often a bad thing

AntrimGlens

Reggie. wrote: »

Sorry but I'm on about machinery again



Don't want to buy one thats too small and regret it afterwards.

Reggie, save your money and do what neighbours of mine did. Arrived into the dealers yard mid May and enquired about buying a tedder, had a look at a krone one sitting in the yard and said they'd take it but couldn't pay till the suckled calf sales in the Autumn. Used it all season (and these boys wouldn't grease a frying pan) and when the dealer arrived to the suck calf sales looking for a cheque the boys gave him the slip and landed the tedder back to the yard the following day and drove out the gate without as much as a thanks, it was missing tines all over the place and half the bearings shot in it..

Reggie.

Dawggone wrote: »

Don't apologise for buying machines Reggie!
Just because guys on here think it's cool not to spend a few quid on a milking parlor even though it's the most important machine on a dairy farm and used 10 months of the year...
The ones I have are 7.5 meters I think but I would recommend seeing it working on very heavy and wet grass to be sure the crown and pinion gears are all ok.

Vicon ( soft shyte) and krone here.
Krone is good, strong, and reliable.
When they give trouble they are a pita.

Be hard to get to see it in heavy grass but I get your meaning. What ya mean by pita?

Reggie.

AntrimGlens wrote: »

Reggie, save your money and do what neighbours of mine did. Arrived into the dealers yard mid May and enquired about buying a tedder, had a look at a krone one sitting in the yard and said they'd take it but couldn't pay till the suckled calf sales in the Autumn. Used it all season (and these boys wouldn't grease a frying pan) and when the dealer arrived to the suck calf sales looking for a cheque the boys gave him the slip and landed the tedder back to the yard the following day and drove out the gate without as much as a thanks, it was missing tines all over the place and half the bearings shot in it..

Wouldn't have the neck to do that

Reggie.

Was chatting to a fella today. If I put a deposit on one he said he would store it and deliver it around April and pay the rest then. Doesn't seem too bad an offer

Reggie.

mahoney_j wrote: »

Gwannnnn dwag,run for cover before before the cavalry arrive.your right about seen it running before purchase,bought my second hand lely about 5 years ago,came in from Holland ,loads of work done but well minded and greased.goingbto need a bit of work before this years season,bearings on 3 of the rotors and few other minor bits.the one piece of kit I wouldn't do without for bales or pit

One I looked at was from holland too. What price are the bearings? Hardly priced the crown gears?

Dawggone

Reggie. wrote: »

Be hard to get to see it in heavy grass but I get your meaning. What ya mean by pita?

P. pain.
I. in
T. the
A. ass

mahoney_j

Reggie. wrote: »

One I looked at was from holland too. What price are the bearings? Hardly priced the crown gears?

They wouldn't be that dear but it's a 1997 machine with a hell of a lot of work done,I had a lad look at it not a major job but reckoned if be better off doing all 6 rotors together .ge also said shafts may need replacing which could turn it into an expensive job.wouldnt really know till machine is stripped down.i may look at getting another second hand one.paid 3500 for it and got 5 years out of it so dosnt really owe me anything.it has improved the quality of the silage I'm making ten fold

Reggie.

mahoney_j wrote: »

They wouldn't be that dear but it's a 1997 machine with a hell of a lot of work done,I had a lad look at it not a major job but reckoned if be better off doing all 6 rotors together .ge also said shafts may need replacing which could turn it into an expensive job.wouldnt really know till machine is stripped down.i may look at getting another second hand one.paid 3500 for it and got 5 years out of it so dosnt really owe me anything.it has improved the quality of the silage I'm making ten fold

Yeah ill take it that it's the hardy on the shafts and not the whole shafts that are giving ya bother

Zr105

White Clover wrote: »

Open to correction on this but I think 675 stands for 6 rotors and 7.5m working width

No 675 is 6.75m and the 770 is 7.7m!

Not meaning to doubt you mj but are you sure your getting all of the 3 swarths from a 10ft with the 675? Spent a good few seasons following one and it couldn't get the full 3, now it was a 3.2m mower and swarths left wide but it just couldn't reach the full thing. If you drive dead centred it looked like it had covered it all but in reality there were 2 narrow strips left at either edge with grass tossed out over it.

Always drove a bit to one side and do 2.5 strokes, not ideal as your splitting one swarth and the other is hitting the rotors a bit funny

Theres a 770 there now and it's definitly covering the 3 comfortably, to the point you don't have to be watching yourself as much driving it.

Single ram models with one large ram to fold would be the newer lely's, the 4ram ones are older models, watch the obvious things like wear and play between rotors etc, then check the pivot points of the head stock and where the frame meets the rest.

Also check the little cast lump that's attached to the big spring at the top of the headstock, it locks the turner at whatever angle it's at when you lift it, if it's broke the turner will slap left and right if your turning on a hill. The older ones did have a habit of breaking the fork that comes from the headstock in under the spring to lift it so don't be overly surprised if it's welded.
The also seemed to have a habit of breaking the right hand side(when looking at it from behind) leg of the headstock.

Ideally the "aws" system ones are the ones to go for, their the ones that the arm for the wheel sweeps down in a loop behind the wheel and have a big plate behind that again. The idea is any grass that gets caught on the arm falls down to the dip behind the wheel and then falls off rather than getting wrapped around the wheel.

Willfarman

Reggie. wrote: »

Was chatting to a fella today. If I put a deposit on one he said he would store it and deliver it around April and pay the rest then. Doesn't seem too bad an offer

Alternatively keep your money and buy it in April?

Reggie.

Willfarman wrote: »

Alternatively keep your money and buy it in April?

But demand will be up then and prices might rise. That's what happened to me last year hence I'm looking now

sea12

Reggie. wrote: »

But demand will be up then and prices might rise. That's what happened to me last year hence I'm looking now

I thought u bought one down in Clare Reggie. Did it not work out ?

just do it

mahoney_j wrote: »

it has improved the quality of the silage I'm making ten fold

So what's your cutting and saving routine? Does the raking it back into swards count as a second shake?

just do it

Dawggone wrote: »

Sometimes you have to spend money to make money.

Reggie

Have you the silage quantity to justify it? I know you like your machinery but maybe it might make more financial sense to get a contractor in?

mahoney_j

just do it wrote: »

So what's your cutting and saving routine? Does the raking it back into swards count as a second shake?

Cut early afternoon ,shake out shake again following day,take up day 2 and pit or wrap.in dodgy weather even one shake out before putting or wrapping can mean dm of 23/25 rather than 17/18.sayingvthat if grass is cut at wrong stage dmd will still be poor ,dm will still be high though

just do it

mahoney_j wrote: »

Cut early afternoon ,shake out shake again following day,take up day 2 and pit or wrap.in dodgy weather even one shake out before putting or wrapping can mean dm of 23/25 rather than 17/18.sayingvthat if grass is cut at wrong stage dmd will still be poor ,dm will still be high though

I was talked out of shaking a light cut (5 bales/ac) this year by the contractor and regret it now. So that's 2 shakes and then row up and bale 48hrs later. Would you leave light covers off the likes of surplus paddocks that long?

When it's wet is damp ground underneath a big issue? Sometimes around here you only get small windows of opportunity and it's unavoidable. I'm just thinking cut when grass is dry, don't cut too tight so the stubble keeps the cut grass up off the ground. Then with shaking and rowing both the grass and ground gets an extra opportunity to dry.

Reggie.

sea12 wrote: »

I thought u bought one down in Clare Reggie. Did it not work out ?

Bought a rake that time

Reggie.

just do it wrote: »

Reggie

Have you the silage quantity to justify it? I know you like your machinery but maybe it might make more financial sense to get a contractor in?

We have around 100 acres of silage ground with about 20 acres of hay/silage bale ground. Needed a tedder last year but no contractor/farmer within a 20 mile radius had one

Bullocks

just do it wrote: »

I was talked out of shaking a light cut (5 bales/ac) this year by the contractor and regret it now. So that's 2 shakes and then row up and bale 48hrs later. Would you leave light covers off the likes of surplus paddocks that long?

When it's wet is damp ground underneath a big issue? Sometimes around here you only get small windows of opportunity and it's unavoidable. I'm just thinking cut when grass is dry, don't cut too tight so the stubble keeps the cut grass up off the ground. Then with shaking and rowing both the grass and ground gets an extra opportunity to dry.

I find the wet ground underneath really slows drying (for hay anyhow ) if the ground is damp when cutting I'd be inclined to leave it in rows to give the ground a chance to dry out before shaking the grass out fully .

kowtow

mahoney_j wrote: »

what's wrong with a 2 spring fork 😀😀😀😀😀

TWO springs?

You are softer than I thought.

Muckit

Reggie. wrote: »

We have around 100 acres of silage ground with about 20 acres of hay/silage bale ground.

God if you could swing it at all

visatorro

is a waffler/conditioner any use? there was one lying in my contractors yard for years. then the last wet year(2012) he said he was using it every time he baled

Reggie.

visatorro wrote: »

is a waffler/conditioner any use? there was one lying in my contractors yard for years. then the last wet year(2012) he said he was using it every time he baled

I think it would take too long to cover the ground

just do it

Reggie. wrote: »

We have around 100 acres of silage ground with about 20 acres of hay/silage bale ground. Needed a tedder last year but no contractor/farmer within a 20 mile radius had one

And there I was thinking you bought a handful of calves just as a hobby

Reggie.

just do it wrote: »

And there I was thinking you bought a handful of calves just as a hobby

You'd be surprised what a handful of calves can eat

Reggie.

just do it wrote: »

And there I was thinking you bought a handful of calves just as a hobby

Ah its a 160 acre ranch to mind around here

joejobrien

just do it wrote: »

I was talked out of shaking a light cut (5 bales/ac) this year by the contractor and regret it now. So that's 2 shakes and then row up and bale 48hrs later. Would you leave light covers off the likes of surplus paddocks that long?

When it's wet is damp ground underneath a big issue? Sometimes around here you only get small windows of opportunity and it's unavoidable. I'm just thinking cut when grass is dry, don't cut too tight so the stubble keeps the cut grass up off the ground. Then with shaking and rowing both the grass and ground gets an extra opportunity to dry.

Off course he talk you out of it????:D
wet underfoot conditions are bad for it if throwing it out. Might be better off leaving in rows if ground is bad and provide that window to dry the ground somewhat

just do it

joejobrien wrote: »

Off course he talk you out of it????:D
wet underfoot conditions are bad for it if throwing it out. Might be better off leaving in rows if ground is bad and provide that window to dry the ground somewhat

It's all about bulk around here. This 6-8wk lush grass from reseeds is a different animal. It needs a good wilt as bales just don't hold shape anywhere as well.

Note I said damp not wet

joejobrien

just do it wrote: »

It's all about bulk around here. This 6-8wk lush grass from reseeds is a different animal. It needs a good wilt as bales just don't hold shape anywhere as well.

Note I said damp not wet

Exactly that all bulk !!!! Absolutly agree it need to be tedded

Reggie.

Went shopping......


Wallot alot lighter too :rolleyes:

Dawggone

Reggie. wrote: »

Went shopping......


Wallot alot lighter too :rolleyes:

Good man Reggie. What make did you buy?

Reggie.

Dawggone wrote: »

Good man Reggie. What make did you buy?

Its a fella 7.7m. Bloody big job so they are

Greengrass1

Reggie. wrote: »

Its a fella 7.7m. Bloody big job so they are

Span new out a the box?
Well wear

frazzledhome

Reggie. wrote: »

Its a fella 7.7m. Bloody big job so they are

Best of luck with her, Reggie

Where did you deal? I need to upgrade ours. Did you buy s/h or new. Where did you buy?

I'm considering a new Krone as its my local dealer but if good s/h available I'd consider it