Car wax

ianobrien

I'm after reading this and I'm getting confused.

I've always used AG stuff and usually use the SRP, buff and seal with a coat or two of AG Extra Gloss Protection. I was going to treat myself and get AG HD wax and seal with AG Extra Gloss Protection but from reading this am I correct in saying there is no need for AG Extra Gloss Protection on top of the wax.

As an aside, I've always used AG stuff as I think that it works better if you stick with the same manufacturer as their potions complement each other. Also, I use the AG stuff on the vintage car that has 38 year old paint, vinyl and glass and I don't want to attack it with something hard.

Darraghmh91.

From what I know your wax is your final touch as its a sealant for the polish
I do full clean nd dry clay ( when it needs it) srp extra gloss protection nd hdwax
Now I'm buting a machine as srp is a hand polish full of fillers and from what I'm told its rocks in a bottle so want to get off that and move to mcguires 105 applied with a hex logic orange pad and do this till its swirl mark free then use a less aggressive polish which is mcguires 205 and applied with a hex logic white pad as its a less aggressive pad nd it will take away the damage from the Orange pad .. Then I'll use my hdwax from auto glym .. Have to buy a DAS6 first as I'm new to the world of machine polishing

JohnBoy26

ianobrien wrote: »

I'm after reading this and I'm getting confused.

I've always used AG stuff and usually use the SRP, buff and seal with a coat or two of AG Extra Gloss Protection. I was going to treat myself and get AG HD wax and seal with AG Extra Gloss Protection but from reading this am I correct in saying there is no need for AG Extra Gloss Protection on top of the wax.

As an aside, I've always used AG stuff as I think that it works better if you stick with the same manufacturer as their potions complement each other. Also, I use the AG stuff on the vintage car that has 38 year old paint, vinyl and glass and I don't want to attack it with something hard.

Indeed you are

Curran

Well if you were to layer HD Wax and EGP, it would be EGP first and then HD Wax.

There is no need to do it, use one or the other is fine, but some people like to layer a sealant with a wax on top.

bbari

Guys... I applied a coat of wax (Fusso) last week. The wax was applied with a foam applicator and buffed with a mf cloth. I can see the residue wax on the bonnet under the light. Where did i go wrong ? Probably didn't buff hard enough or left it too long after applying ?

vectra

bbari wrote: »

Guys... I applied a coat of wax (Fusso) last week. The wax was applied with a foam applicator and buffed with a mf cloth. I can see the residue wax on the bonnet under the light. Where did i go wrong ? Probably didn't buff hard enough or left it too long after applying ?

1)
How heavy did you apply the way?

Extremely light coat twice is better than one heavy coat.

2)
In this weather it is possible you applied it too thick and it had not enough time to cure.

3)
How long did you leave it before buffing?

4)
Did you try the swipe test before buffing?

bbari

1)
How heavy did you apply the way? - - I THINK it wasn't heavy

Extremely light coat twice is better than one heavy coat.----The above applies

2)
In this weather it is possible you applied it too thick and it had not enough time to cure. ---Yes it was cold but sunny

3)
How long did you leave it before buffing?Probably 10 mins

4)
Did you try the swipe test before buffing?

---

Yes I did.

bbari

The above answers are just my opinion, I must have applied too heavy or would have left too long ? Probably I need to see a pro like you working!

vectra

bbari wrote: »

The above answers are just my opinion, I must have applied too heavy or would have left too long ? Probably I need to see a pro like you working!

Right
Lets get one thing straight..
I am not a pro

Just love doing it as good as humanly possible

Maybe leave it for 20 mins in this weather. And remember
Lighter is better,

bbari

ok - do I need to sort out the residue wax before applying another coat ?
I was thinking to get it washed, apply QD, then a week later get it washed and apply a coat of KOG....

Mr Detail

bbari wrote: »

ok - do I need to sort out the residue wax before applying another coat ?
I was thinking to get it washed, apply QD, then a week later get it washed and apply a coat of KOG....

I doubt very much you couldd get away with leaving fusso for 20 minutes even in this weather. Did you get English instructions with it? They should have advised a panel at a time for application and removal. Otherwise their is a significant chance it will be all but impossible to remove.

There is of course loads of variables that could affect it as vectra mentioned. One other is what time of the day was it when you applied it?

If it was afternoon in this weather as the dew point arrives, this often causes a problem with all waxes/sealants as they essentially have moisture in them. People often complain about a condensation type look on the panels for a few days.

Some quick detailer and a wipe down should help remove it.

vectra

If you get the timing right the whole car can get coated in fusso and then start removing again.
I do this with several waxes. ( in the winter months )
In the summer it would be apply to 2 panels and remove from one, apply to another panel and remove from panel 2 and so forth.

Mr Detail

vectra wrote: »

If you get the timing right the whole car can get coated in fusso and then start removing again.
I do this with several waxes. ( in the winter months )
In the summer it would be apply to 2 panels and remove from one, apply to another panel and remove from panel 2 and so forth.

Whatever works for you is best. If your having issues with it though, it's best to revert to the manufacturers recommendations as a starting point.

The carriers in fusso are pretty strong so they ash pretty quick.

I'm out to do the van now myself.

bbari

it was around 11am when i applied. Sorry didn't read the instructions . I applied on bonnet, front bumper and front wings before i started removing. The bonnet is quiet big (F10) and i should have just applied and removed on the bonnet 1st. You are right as in i did have the condensation problem. Ok, I'll get it washed and use QD before applying a coat of KOG. Thank you

vectra

Mr Detail wrote: »

Whatever works for you is best. If your having issues with it though, it's best to revert to the manufacturers recommendations as a starting point.

The carriers in fusso are pretty strong so they ash pretty quick.

I'm out to do the van now myself.

While I agree with you 100%
you must also take into account that hose manufacturers do not witness our climate so we must adjust.

Mr Detail

vectra wrote: »

While I agree with you 100%
you must also take into account that hose manufacturers do not witness our climate so we must adjust.

Ya I should have been clearer, those recommendations of a panel at a time are from the UK distributor. The solvents in fusso are pretty strong. The direct translation says longer than 15 minutes in cold weather.

I have personally done a whole car with it and had no issues in removal.

This time of year is a bloody nightmare for applying wax and sealant anyway.

bbari

so when I'm applying a coat of KOG? I should be doing it in the morning, do one panel at a time and leave it on for max 15 min in cold weather like this?

vectra

bbari wrote: »

so when I'm applying a coat of KOG? I should be doing it in the morning, do one panel at a time and leave it on for max 15 min in cold weather like this?

Anytime I used it I coated the full car as this only takes 15~20 minutes.
Once that is done start all over in the same order to buff off as buffing is a snitch.

This give approx 20 minutes for it to cure on all panels.
Make sure there is no morning dew when using it or afternoon dew.

bbari

Thank you Vectra and Mr Detail

bertson

Great thread and some great advice;

I need to give my black car a full valet so looking for advice on product and method?

I.e. what would work for black best and what products should I get to do the job, cheaper to get via ebay ?

Curran

The trick isnt in the wax or sealant that you apply to the paintwork.....the secret to getting a car looking its best, is in the prep work; getting the paintwork fully decontaminated, ready to take a wax or sealant. Prep is easily 90% of the battle. Whatever you apply after, is going to look well, whether its a 5 euro tub of wax, 80 euro tub of wax, or more

The car needs to be washed, de-tar'd, de-iron'd, clayed, perhaps polished if needed, and then apply a wax or sealant.
After you've done all your hard work, you want to ensure that you have a pH neutral car shampoo so you dont risk stripping away the wax or sealant that you have applied, undoing your hard work...though, even if you strip away the wax or sealant, the car will still look very well, due to your efforts preparing the paintwork; it will just remain unprotected.

bertson

Thx a mil;
For the "washed, de-tar'd, de-iron'd, clayed, perhaps polished", what do you use?

Power hose + tar remover + ??

Curran

Wash: Two buckets, wash mitt and pH neutral shampoo - power hose is helpful but no necessary
De-Tar: Tar Remover such as Tardis, Tar Cleanse; spray on, rinse off, repeat if necessary
De-Iron: Products like Bilt Hamber Korrosol, Orchard Autocare Iron Cleanse, Wolf's Deironizer, 50Cal DeCon - can be used on wheels too for great results. Spray on, allow dwell for 5-10 mins, rinse off
Clay: Clay bars such as Bilt Hamber Auto Clay, Wolfs, Chemical Guys. Watch videos on YouTube on "How to Clay a car"
Re Wash
Dry
Polish: A quick hand polish will do wonders for depth and shine
Protect: Wax or sealant
Stand back and admire your hard work!

bertson

Thx a mil, looks like that a full saturday taken up:)

Curran

Definitely a full days work if you have never done anything like it before. The claying will take you a while the first time to get used to how it should feel etc....might feel like a painful process when doing it, but its really worth it - you can actually feel the difference in the surface of the paintwork...rub the back of your hand on the bonnet after washing it, and then after de-tar, de-iron and claying it - it will feel like a fine sand paper before the process and like glass/ice after it.

Vote 4 Pedro

Collinite 845 but like Curren said...It's all in the prep.

bbari

Curran wrote: »

Wash: Two buckets, wash mitt and pH neutral shampoo - power hose is helpful but no necessary

if you don't have a power hose and washing the car using 2BM - what do you suggest to rinse off the shampoo ? Just use the plain water in the bucket and mitt to rinse off ?

Curran

If you havent access to a garden hose, then ideally fill a fresh bucket as even the wash bucket will pick up a certain amount of dirt ( no grit bit the water wont be fresh)

JAMES VTI S

Best of shows smell ................ it's calming LOL

myshirt

That is a monster of an image James!
Can you resize?

Has anyone tried 50cal Penta Wax? Any links to reviews?