Help a cycling newbie out !

ProudDUB

Some background. Very overweight female (12.5 stone) trying to get back in shape by getting on the bike. Trying to keep expenses down for now. Absolutley terrified about cycling on the roads. Will only go on dedicated bike trails/tracks, or roads with proper cycle lanes. So far, I have only cycled the Sutton/Clontarf cycle track & that where I will do the bulk of my biking.

Bike is a bog standard ladies Apollo Haze bike from Heatons, that cost a couple of hundred quid, a couple of years ago. I'll probably upgrade to a better & lighter, carbon fibre bike, if this cycling lark works out. But for now, that's the bike I have.


Questions.

1. Very, very sore backside. (I know, I know....:P ) Already have really good padded shorts and a Gel Tech padded sear cover. The saddle the bike came with is not that hard. It will depress a fair bit, if you press it down. Been told to (a) upgrade to a better saddle that will distribute my weight better, and install (b) a spring mechanism thingy below the saddle (sorry, don't know the official name of it) that will act kinda like a shock absorber, as I ride. Total cost for both items & installation is about 80-100 quid. Is it worth it? Given my weight, is the fact that I am gonna have a sore arse just a fact of life, until I drop some weight & there is less weight pressing down on just one part of my body?

2. Punctures. Have had two in just one week of biking. :mad: Been told that as I have El Cheapo tyres on the bike, I need to upgrade to better tyres, with Kevlar in them, as they are more puncture resistant. Again, is this a worthwhile investment, or should I just figure out how to mend my own punctures, as I'll be getting them regardless of what kind of tyre I have? If I do go with better tyres, what are the brands to go with or avoid?

3. Where can I get an inexpensive bike rack, that I can leave on the car, (but still use the boot) when it is mounted? Where are good spots (with dedicated bike lanes) in Dublin, to take the bike for a good run out? I presume the Phoenix Park is a good one?

4. Where is the best place for inexpensive, but quality waterproof, hi-viz gear? Specialty bike shops seem to be fierce expensive.

Guess that's about it for now. Apologies for the length of this. This is just sooooooooooooo much to figure out. It all seemed so much simpler and easier when I was 10 ! :rolleyes:

Dan2912

For your tender rear end, hard female centric saddle with good quality shorts and just get used to it. Won't take long and will end up being quiet comfy. Go to a decent bike shop and get a good saddle and shorts. Your ass will thank you.

Capt_cack

I got my bike carrier in a charity shop for €3 (hollywood model, worth about €50).
Keep a look out in your local.
Have only started cycling recently myself, feel your pain sis ( literally!),

It's frightening on the roads to begin with, stick with it.

sbs2010

Punctures - get a track pump with a pressure gauge and inflate to recommend pressure - printed on tyre - each time you go out.
Go to an online shop an read reviews of various tyres. Get two with good anti puncture reviews. You'll need tyre levers and probably spanners to change your tyres. Check current ones for size printed on side eg 26 x 1.25 or 650 x 28, and get the same.

Qualitymark

You'll get fewer punctures if you keep the tyres pumped up well. I got one of these babies http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/airwave-storm-track-pump-cosmetic-damage/rp-prod122403 (this is a special cheap deal for this one, "cosmetic damage", so it sounds like a bargain, as Chain Reaction are good) and use it, and it means fewer punctures and also easier cycling.

Sore arse - might be a bad saddle, might also be partly bad cycling technique. The ideal is to keep the pedals going at a low rate more or less all the time, using your gears to make sure you're never *pushing*. Newbies tend to strain to get the bike rolling, wait until it almost stops, then strain at the pedalling again.

And if you're carrying stuff, use a basket or panniers, rather than having them on your back, with adds to the pressure on the tender backside.

Welcome back on the bike!

Nekarsulm

get someone who knows what they are doing, to check your saddle is set at the right height, angle and fore/aft position. Can make a world of a difference.

dermabrasion

1. The arse pain is likely due to the saddle slope and the width of your sit bones. Everyone is different, but if the bulk of our weight is distributed on a small area, then your arse will be sore. Padding and springs are not helpful. You need to find a saddle with some padding (not too much) that distributes the weight across a larger area. It took me 3 different saddles, until I chose the Fisik arione, which fits my arse.
2. Continental gatorskin tyres are the ones a lot people use in the winter. you should make sure the tyres are pumped to a high pressure 100psi, always. This prevents pinch flats. These are where you hit the lip of a curb or pothole with a soft tyre which punctures the inner tube.
3. Phoenix park, Marley park are okay for getting started, but you should begin to venture out on the road. Enniskerry and back is cycling central in south Dublin
4. Altura make reasonably priced cycling gear. Buying very cheap might be a false economy, as the gear needs to last.

stampydmonkey

Recently bought a van so Ive a bike rack that is taking up space at the home house that your more than welcome too. Its from halfords and is in perfect working order. Wouldnt be one you'd leave on all the time tho. Won't be home for a week or three but I'll bring it up and get it over to you if you can wait?

Edit its this one btw
http://www.halfords.ie/car-seats-travel-equipment/bike-racks-cycle-carriers/bike-racks-cycle-carriers/halfords-value-rear-low-mount-2-cycle-carrier

desertcircus

There's a number of tyres that are good for puncture resistance - Schwalbe Marathons, Panaracer Ribmos, and Continental Gatorskins are all towards the upper end in terms of quality (and, unfortunately, price!) I had to replace the tyres on my roadbike at different times, so I have a Ribmo on the front and a Gatorskin on the back; I don't do as much mileage as some people, but neither have punctured on me since I bought them over a year ago.

The Phoenix Park is a good spot, and the traffic is reasonably quiet, especially at weekends.

I'd like to offer two suggestions, both of which are outside the remit of your questions - if you don't like the sound of either, then please disregard.

1 - The total cost of the various bits and pieces you're looking at is going to be fairly high (a hundred for the saddle upgrade, about seventy to eighty for the Kevlar-lined tyres, and however much a bike rack will set you back). With that in mind, it might be worth looking at a new bike - the Pendleton Initial is designed for women, is 275 in Halfords, and is an absolute steal at that price. It's a road bike rather than a hybrid, so it will feel different. I found the switch to a road bike made for a much more comfortable ride: the stance you use on a road bike doesn't put as much pressure on your rear or your spine, and your arms take up more of the work. As well as that, the wheels are on a quick-release system, so unless your car is genuinely tiny, you can drop the back seats down, pop the front wheel off, and throw it into the boot. The tyres won't be great, but they will be significantly better than the ones you currently have, and the overall cycling experience will be much better. Like I said, disregard if you want, but for a small amount more you might solve your three problems and get a far better bike.

2 - I understand that at the moment traffic scares you, but that's something that disappears rapidly once you get a little experience. Give cycling in traffic a go - don't start off by trying to switch lanes on the N11 or anything, but figure out a ten-kilometre loop around your home that doesn't hit any huge roads, and try cycling them early on a Saturday or Sunday morning. You'll get a low-pressure introduction to cycling in the presence of cars, and if it's too overwhelming, you're only a couple of kilometres from home. The other benefit of getting used to traffic is that it'll enable you to go much further on the bike, which will translate to more weight loss.

Lastly: best of luck! I started cycling to work five years ago on a hundred-quid bike from Smyths when I realised I'd gotten badly overweight (16 stone and five feet nine). I can remember doing it for the first time and being hugely nervous the whole way. I used to use CardioTrainer on my phone when I cycled: you can enter your gender, height and weight, and it'll give you an estimate for calories burned at the end of your ride, which can give you a tangible sense of progress.

Qualitymark

The Pendleton looks like a very nice bike. But I'm a little baffled about the frame measurements (see screenshot). Are we talking inches or centimetres? If inches, it's for a giant; if centimetres, for a dwarf. I'm five foot nothing, and would normally go for a 49cm frame. 43cm? What'sh the shtory, Rory?
Edit: dammit, I can't get the screen shot to show.

Ah, got it; it wanted the .png suffix, and then it wanted the formerly invisible 'upload' button to be pressed. But why won't it just show as an image rather than a file?

Nekarsulm

Could it be that the cross bar is usually positioned lower down the seat tube on a ladies bike? And if they measure from the bottom bracket to the cross bar, the you will get a much smaller size number than you might expect?

Qualitymark

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Could it be that the cross bar is usually positioned lower down the seat tube on a ladies bike? And if they measure from the bottom bracket to the cross bar, the you will get a much smaller size number than you might expect?

But you don't! Frame measurement is from the centre of the pedals to the top of the… can't remember the name of the bar, but the straight-up one that goes up from the pedals to where the saddle yoke fits in.

HivemindXX

As Nerkarsulm mentioned your position on the bike can affect how much of a pain in the arse you get. Your weight should be distributed between the saddle, the pedals and the handlebars. Pedalling harder puts more weight on your feet and takes it off your backside and hands and your fitness level and saddle height mainly dictate that. Spreading the weight evenly between your hands and backside is important and this is one by changing the saddle front to back and also the handlebar height. Try to get an experienced person to give you some advice and help you adjust those things.

A suspension seatpost (which is what I think you mean by the spring below the saddle) is not a good idea for road cycling in my opinion. They are for absorbing big shocks like when you jump a rock or something, on regular road cycling they just absorb energy while you bob up and down thereby making your cycle harder than it needs to be.

As lots of other people said the key to less punctures is proper inflation. A pump with a pressure gauge helps a lot since if you just use feel it is very easy to underinflate. A good quality track pump seems expensive but mine is still working perfectly after nearly 15 years and the amount of effort it has saved me over that time is astronomical. Tyres wear out, when yours do I'd recommend getting puncture resistant tyres with Kevlar. I use Schwalbe Marathon Plus and I'm very happy with them, I think the extra price is worth it in the time and expense they save by reducing the number of punctures I get.

Good and cheap rarely go together and rain gear is no exception. The Altura Night Vision jacket is practically a uniform around Dublin. I have the Evo version which is a bit more expensive. It is rain proof enough and certainly very high viz. Online might be the cheapest for that.
The two most popular sites as far as I can see are Wiggle (http://www.wiggle.co.uk/altura-night-vision-jacket/) and CRC (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en) although the latter doesn't seem to do Altura.

As other people said you should try to ease yourself in to cycling on the road gradually. It will make your life a lot easier if you are willing to cycle on the road when it suits you rather than being at the mercy of the somewhat spotty cycling network. Having said that another decent off road cycle path is the Grand Canal greenway. This goes 8.5km from Inchicore to Adamstown.

Carawaystick

A ladies saddle will help, as women have a different pelvis structure to men, and different points to take the contact.

Is it definitely contact pain, not muscle pain deep inside the upper leg muscles? as the muscle pain will fade away after a week or 2 as the unused muscles now get used.

Regarding getting used to cycling on roads, start on roads with very little traffic; I Sutton, if you head up towards the summit, there are roads towards the sea with no traffic on the gentle approach in to the Head of Howth, Strand road and those off it

There's a road (Burrow road) which runs north of the train line from Sutton towards Howth

There's also some cycling in St Annes Park.

Two tips I was taught about cycling in traffic were a) watch the wheels, ad b) what you see is what you hit

If you look at the front wheels of a car, you will see the wheels move before the car starts to turn, or move in or change direction

If you see a obstacle, you will more than likely hit that obstacle( pothole, bump, etc) while if you see a gap, you will cycle through that gap

ProudDUB

Hey everyone.

Thanks so much for posting. There is lots of really great info there. It never occurred to me that the weight distribution on the arms & legs (& not just on me bum) was so important.

I gots me a pump with a pressure gague. Only thing is, I got my third puncture today and I am seriously put off by the whole bloody thing now.

Friday - Got Puncture #2 repaired on Friday. They put a new tube in. They didn't just repair the old one. Rode the bike home (2 mile cycle) with no issues. There were some serious speed bumps along the way, but I rode over them very, very slowly.

Saturday - Went for a ride on the coastal bike path from Sutton to Clontarf & back, with no issues or drama. Made sure both tires were inflated to 75 (that is the no on the side of the tire) before I set off. Didn't have any issues at all on the ride. Got home & both tires were still inflated. I was very careful to avoid any curbs, or speed bumps and anything that looked like glass. I did go down onto Dollymount Strand for a breather. I rode over a few shells, but I was cycling so slowly due to the sand being very wet, I doubt if they could have punctured the tire. As I said, I got home & everything seemed fine with the bike.

Sunday - Planned on heading out for another ride. Checked the air in the tires before I left. Front tire felt hard to the touch, but the gague showed it was between 55 & 60, so I inflated it up to 75. About 2 mins later, I heard a loud pop and hiss. The air blew out of the front tire so quickly & with such force, that it sent the plastic nozzle thing back into the tire. Pulled it back out. Tried to re inflate it. No joy. Totally flat. Won't take any air at all, no matter how hard I pumped. The back tire was fine. It didn't need any air at all.

What the heck is going on? The same thing happened on puncture #2. I was at home, hours after the bike had been ridden. I heard a pop and a hiss and the tire went flat.This is the third time the tire has gone flat, after the bike has been ridden one time, post repair job It is the same front tire on all three punctures. Could it be a structural weakness in the tire itself, or just bad luck, or bad repair jobs?

I was thinking of taking up desertcircus's suggestion of upgrading to the Pendleton Initial. A bike with better tires, saddle, a better weigh distribution design, as well as removable wheels, sounds like much better economy over all & it may solve a lot of my problems. I am just really, really reluctant to spend yet more money, until I get this effing puncture issue solved.

Any feedback on the nature of punctures would be appreciated. If I did pick up a nail or a piece of glass when I was out on Fri, why did the tire stay hard and inflated all the way home and up until Sat? If I got a puncture on Sat, why did the tire stay hard until Sunday? Why did it only deflate AFTER I had put some more air in it on Sunday? Do I need to get an advanced physics lesson in how punctures work, to figure all this crap out?

Anyway, sorry for ranting again. I'm just seriously put off by all this puncture lark.

(Btw, some feedback from the rest of ye would be appreciated on the Pendleton bike. Here is the Halfords link to it.

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/road-bikes/pendleton-initial-road-bike

desertcircus, why did you suggest that one in particular, as opposed to others?)

Thanks again everyone.

Nekarsulm

Punctures come in 3's. Fact of life.
ok, that's not a scientific fact, but it often seems that way. Sounds like the tubes cannot deal with 75 lbs pressure. Or a fault inside the front tyre.Or a very inaccurate pressure gauge on your new pump. Pull out the tube and see what has happened. The fact that the valve shot back into the tyre points to the tube being incorrectly fitted, twisted or something. Perhaps a Boardsie close to your location could show you how to repair a puncture?
Speed bumps should have no effect on your tyres. Its hitting the sharp edge of a pot hole that nip a tube.

Beer Assistant

Sounds like your tube's are being pinched inside the tyre some way (badly fitted) or your tyres are crap, and good idea to just spin your wheels slowly and check tyres for foreign objects stuck in tyres ie: small pieces of glass small stones. If you are fixing your own punctures line up the tube with the tyre and check the area on the tyre where the puncture on the tube is, I have continental gp 4000 on my roadbike now over a year and not one puncture yet.
Maybe I'm just lucky??

ProudDUB

The punctures have all been repaired at the same bike shop. I'm not doing it myself. I wouldn't have a clue what to do, or even how to get the tires off the bike. That is how bloody clueless I am. When I started using the bike last week, I brought the bike into the same shop to get the tires inflated, as the bike hadn't been used in a couple of years. The guy there told me not to inflate the tires up to the full 75 and to stick at 60-65. (He didn't tell me why.) But subsequent people told me that 75-80 was fine & that is what they have been inflated to, by me and also by staff in bike shops. I honestly don't know who to listen to at this stage, as I though that under inflating the tires was the #1 cause of punctures?

I have already visually inspected the tire & I can't see any sign of damage or holes. Is just getting one tire replaced an option, or do you need to replace them in matching pairs? The fact that I have no issues at all with the back tire, seems to suggest that the back one is fine.

Nekarsulm

No need to replace both tyres. But if the bike was sitting on flat tyres for a couple of years it really could cause structural faults with with tyre and tube. If I lived closer I would show you how to fix your own punctures.
Perhaps try a different bike shop also.

Beer Assistant

It's ok to change one tyre at a time, if next time you get a puncture try removing the tyre yourself and then you could try find what's causing the punctures, could well be a spoke causing it every time, hard to diagnose on a forum. Maybe post your local area and someone close to you might offer to have a look.

ProudDUB

Thanks Nekarslum. I guess this is the very reason why God invented YouTube.

Yes, the bike had been sitting stored, unused for nearly 2 years. I have been wondering all along if that could be a problem. It was also stored in a spare bedroom, that never had the rads turned on, so the room got pretty cold in winter. I wondered if the contracting of the rubber in the tires due to the winter cold/summer heat could be an issue. But the rear tire seems to have no problems at all, so I dunno about that.

I think I'll just tell them tomorrow to just replace the front tire with a Kevlar one. I can't keep spending 12 quid every other day to get repairs punctured. They replaced the tubes on the other 2 punctures, so it can't be all down to one bad tube. On the last puncture, they showed me the old tube, and there was a large hole in it, about the size of a 2 euro coin. So whatever is going on, it is causing some serious damage to the tubes.

Nekarsulm

12 quid! Bloody hell! , Halfords selling five tubes for twelve quid..........

ProudDUB

Yep, the 12 quid includes the new tube & the labour.

Like I said, I have a feeling that YouTube & I are about to become firm friends. :rolleyes:

beauf

I don't think the Halfords own brand of tube are good quality. I switched to a cheap but branded one and they are keeping the pressure better. Did you get these punctures fixed in Halford? Try a different shop. Whomever is fixing them is doing something wrong, or not checking for an issue.

I'd go into a shop and tell them your having a problem. You shouldn't be having that many punctures.

kerry4sam

Don't let these punctures deter you. Have you a local bike shop you could pop into? They'll should show you how to take off the tyre; check carefully for anything insude tyre that could damage a new tube and also how to replace tube.

Think of it this way: If When you decide to head off on a spin and it happens and it's quiet around, what are you going to do. Now, it make take you a lickle time, but it WILL put your mind at ease knowing you can do even this much.

Also bring some spare monies in a pocket in event you need to phone for a lift home (taxi or otherwise).

Safe n Happy Peddling,
kerry4sam

Qualitymark

ProudDUB wrote: »

The punctures have all been repaired at the same bike shop. I'm not doing it myself. I wouldn't have a clue what to do, or even how to get the tires off the bike. That is how bloody clueless I am.

Not clueless, sensible. There are those of us who repair punctures and there are those of us who don't.

But I'd take a small bet (say €12) that you're getting punctures because you're cycling with your tyres not blown up properly. Buy that floor pump in Chain Reaction; it has a gauge that shows when the tyres are fully inflated, and it's not a lot of effort to use it (also good against future bingo wings).

I don't want to say it for fear the Puncture Gods are listening and sniggering, but I haven't had a puncture in two years, since I started paying good attention to proper tyre inflation. Before that I had the regularly.

Oh yes, as Gretts says, it's possible the tube's being pinched. There are a couple of reasons for this - for instance, a pokey-out spoke inside the wheel, a dicey valve - but your bike shop should check for them.

cdaly_

ProudDUB wrote: »

I think I'll just tell them tomorrow to just replace the front tire with a Kevlar one.

Don't go replacing the tyre without knowing what the problem is.

On the last puncture, they showed me the old tube, and there was a large hole in it, about the size of a 2 euro coin. So whatever is going on, it is causing some serious damage to the tubes.

This sounds like the tube is blowing out. Having it happen on three succesive tubes, all replaced by a bike shop suggests it's not incorrect fitting but something else. Before you go back to the bike shop, hunt out those videos and take the tyre and tube off yourself. If the wheels are not quick release, you'll just need a 15mm spanner and some levers (fork handles work well but don't bend the cutlery!).

When you have the tyre off, carefully inspect the inside of it for glass/thorns protruding (unlikely as you don't puncture immediately), old cuts which could chafe the tube (these usually take longer than a single spin to go and usually just leak rather than burst) and for damaged wire bead (the hard wire bit which holds the tyre onto the rim).

Now check the wheel itself. Inside the rim there should be plastic or rubber rim tape. This covers up spoke holes and provides a surface for the tube to press against. Holes in this will allow the tube to bulge through to the extent that it may burst. Check that this is sitting correctly on the rim. Also check for any sharp protrusions in the rim or spokes poking through the rim tape.

Once you have an idea of the cause of the punctures, you'll be better set to sort them out.

sullivlo

I'm new to cycling too and finding the tips in this thread useful. Rather than start a new thread, I figured I'd hijack this thread :P mainly as its a query in relation to the Pendelton bike.

I'm bordering 5'9" - the medium frame says up to 5'7" - would this be too small for me? Currently on a hybrid bike. It's light enough though and I'm managing to build up a small bit of momentum in terms of speed / distance.

Regarding the sore bum - I think it's just a case of getting used to it unfortunately! I had some chaffing issues with just a padded saddle but when I got padded shorts it seems to be okay. Still a bit tender, but a lot better and I'm sure it's just a case of getting used to it.

I'm doing all of my cycling on the roads but will try get out to the Phoenix Park over the weekend. I'd like to do a 20 km cycle, which I know is pittance compared to some of the spins that you guys do, but its all progress!

ProudDUB

I don't think the Halfords own brand of tube are good quality. I switched to a cheap but branded one and they are keeping the pressure better. Did you get these punctures fixed in Halford? Try a different shop. Whomever is fixing them is doing something wrong, or not checking for an issue.

I'd go into a shop and tell them your having a problem. You shouldn't be having that many punctures.

I have been taking it to a specialty bike shop. (Would rather not say which one, but its not Halfords.) I know that Halfords tires are not top grade, but getting three punctures after just six bike rides is a bit much, even for cheap tires, no? Unfortunately there is no bike shop near me, that I can get to easily with the bike. The nearest one is three Dart stops away. As I live close enough to the train station & I can take the bike on the Dart, that is where I take it to get the punctures repaired. All the other bike shops that I know of, are driving distance away.

But I'd take a small bet (say €12) that you're getting punctures because you're cycling with your tyres not blown up properly. Buy that floor pump in Chain Reaction; it has a gauge that shows when the tyres are fully inflated, and it's not a lot of effort to use it (also good against future bingo wings).

Already have a decent pump. I bought a Blackburn Airtower 1, that has the pressure gauge on it, so I know what I am inflating the tires up to.

This sounds like the tube is blowing out. Having it happen on three succesive tubes, all replaced by a bike shop suggests it's not incorrect fitting but something else. Before you go back to the bike shop, hunt out those videos and take the tyre and tube off yourself. If the wheels are not quick release, you'll just need a 15mm spanner and some levers (fork handles work well but don't bend the cutlery!).

When you have the tyre off, carefully inspect the inside of it for glass/thorns protruding (unlikely as you don't puncture immediately), old cuts which could chafe the tube (these usually take longer than a single spin to go and usually just leak rather than burst) and for damaged wire bead (the hard wire bit which holds the tyre onto the rim).

Now check the wheel itself. Inside the rim there should be plastic or rubber rim tape. This covers up spoke holes and provides a surface for the tube to press against. Holes in this will allow the tube to bulge through to the extent that it may burst. Check that this is sitting correctly on the rim. Also check for any sharp protrusions in the rim or spokes poking through the rim tape.

Thanks for that. I don't own the tools to take the bike apart, nor do I feel knowledgeable enough to take the wheels apart and inspect it for spoke damage & what not. I wouldn't know what to look for. I think I might just ring around a few of the bike shops that I know of & tell them what is going on & some of the issues & problems that you guy have suggested. Which ever one I get the best vibe from, that's where I'll take it. If they are willing to talk to me about potential issues and show me what is going on as they repair it, I'd feel better about parting with my cash. The other place just took my bike into the back room and told me to come back in an hour. I don't feel safe driving around with the bike in the boot of the car, as it sticks out a lot, but I'm reluctant to take it back to where I got the last 3 punctures done. Knowing my bloody luck with this stupid bike, I'll probably get pulled over by the Guards ! :rolleyes:

cdaly_

ProudDUB wrote: »

The nearest one is three Dart stops away. As I live close enough to the train station & I can take the bike on the Dart, that is where I take it to get the punctures repaired. All the other bike shops that I know of, are driving distance away.

There are two at Fairview near Clontarf Rd dart. I don't know the people at the nearer of the two but the folks at Little Sport (under the pedestrian walkway) are pretty good. At the Howth end you have The Bike Hub, again pretty knowledgeable.

If you wanna carry the bike by car, fold down the rear seat and it should fit no bother. Top Bicycle Shop near the Bull Island wooden bridge has enthusiastic, friendly staff.

Thanks for that. I don't own the tools to take the bike apart, nor do I feel knowledgeable enough to take the wheels apart and inspect it for spoke damage & what not. I wouldn't know what to look for. I think I might just ring around a few of the bike shops that I know of & tell them what is going on & some of the issues & problems that you guy have suggested. Which ever one I get the best vibe from, that's where I'll take it. If they are willing to talk to me about potential issues and show me what is going on as they repair it, I'd feel better about parting with my cash.

If you're not happy to try it yourself, go in to the shop and ask them to teach you how to do it. They should be happy to do so as puncture repairs are pretty boring for them to do and they'll end up with a happy customer for future work.

ProudDUB

Ok...update. Just got back from the bike shop. The mechanic there told me that the tires are fine. There are no nicks or cuts from spokes. He said that the rim on the bike is the cause of the puncture problems. He said that the rim on the particular brand of bikes from Halfords, is deeper than it is on standard road bikes. As the tube is being stretched in ways that are not ideal, that is what is causing it to blow.

He put another tube in, but he attached a better valve to it that has a metal ring attached. When the pump is then inserted into the ring, it is able to inflate the tube in such a way that it stretches the tube, so that it moulds itself better to the rim.

He also said to only inflate the tires up to 60 psi, as going all the way up to 75 (which is what it says on the side of the tire) is putting too much pressure on it, as even with the better valve, I still have a tube in an unorthodox, ill fitting rim. He advised against getting new rims as they would cost over 100 quid. As the bike only cost a couple of hundred quid, that is just false economy. Basically, he said that I have "an entry level bike" which I think is code for having a piece of crap bike & that I should upgrade. When I asked him how on earth people are supposed to know what kind of rim they have when they are buying a bike, he agreed that it is a technical thing that most people wouldn't automatically think about or ask about.

So that is todays exciting installment. I'll be taking it out for a spin tomorrow. If this looks like it has done the trick, I'll post where I took the bike to. I don't want to be running anyone down, if a crap bike is the source of the problems & not shoddy workmanship.

Beer Assistant

Sounds like that's your problem so, bit miffed why he advised you not to buy a new wheel if the wheel is causing the punctures, And over €100 for new wheel sound's excessive?? although i haven't bought wheels of any sort in year's. How much did this guy charge for fitting new tube?

magicbastarder

you should post a pic of the rim when you get a chance later.

ProudDUB

Gretts_40oz wrote: »

Sounds like that's your problem so, bit miffed why he advised you not to buy a new wheel if the wheel is causing the punctures, And over €100 for new wheel sound's excessive?? although i haven't bought wheels of any sort in year's. How much did this guy charge for fitting new tube?

Yep, 100 quid is what he quoted me. I don't even know if that is just for the metal part of the wheel, or if it included tires. I presume it didn't include tires. I'm sure he would have put a brand new wheel on the bike if I asked him to. I just got the impression that he thought that spending 100 quid on such a cheap bike was false economy. I was charged 7 euros for the everything, including a (unasked for) brake tightening jobbie. Great value, in fairness !

magicbastarder wrote: »

you should post a pic of the rim when you get a chance later.

Sorry, the wheel is back on the bike now, so I can't see the rim to take a picture of it. (Hopefully I won't be seeing the wheel again, in its naked state, for a very, very long time. :P ) When he was telling me about my rim, he brought one from the back store room and showed me the difference between the two of them. I could see the depth difference with the naked eye, but I'm not sure if it would show up in a picture.

yop

Aldi/Lidl do grand gear for starting off and for anything sportive. Gloves, jackets, tops, under armour there this week I think.
Pumped the tires to their max PSI though you might have a spoke pushing through, and avoid the potholes! Get a stand/floor pump, hand pump won't get you the required PSI.
Ladies saddle I know nought about but get some chamois cream also for that bit of comfort!

ProudDUB

yop wrote: »

Aldi/Lidl do grand gear for starting off and for anything sportive. Gloves, jackets, tops, under armour there this week I think.
Pumped the tires to their max PSI though you might have a spoke pushing through, and avoid the potholes! Get a stand/floor pump, hand pump won't get you the required PSI.
Ladies saddle I know nought about but get some chamois cream also for that bit of comfort!

There you go talking $hite again......Cillian O'Connor is not, I repeat NOT a marquee forward..... and for another thing.....oops sorry.......wrong forum...:p

Yeah, I have the bargains thread bookmarked. Aldi & Lidl seem to be a great source of bargains. I already have a decent pump. A better saddle and/or a road bike is the next upgrade. I think it's more about proper weight distribution & not just sore unused muscles, or chaffing in delicate places. The pain is coming from pelvic bones pressing down on a hard surface, in ways that God did not intend pelvic bones to press down !

HivemindXX

That thing with the rim is certainly a strange one. However I definitely recommend you figure out how to fix a puncture. Even if you never actually fix the tube and just replace it (which is what I do) it's a lot cheaper than getting a bike shop to do it. You can get cheap tubes for €3 online and good quality ones for €6.50.

With a bit of practice it takes 10 minutes or less to replace a tube which is probably less time than you would spend travelling to the bike shop. If you get a box of disposable latex gloves from a chemist you won't even have to wash your hands afterwards.

paulgalway

this inspired me to learn how to change a tube.

Practice a few times at home.

ProudDUB

HivemindXX wrote: »

That thing with the rim is certainly a strange one. However I definitely recommend you figure out how to fix a puncture. Even if you never actually fix the tube and just replace it (which is what I do) it's a lot cheaper than getting a bike shop to do it. You can get cheap tubes for €3 online and good quality ones for €6.50.

Yeah, the rim thing definitely surprised me too. However, as my general knowledge of bikes could be written on the back of a postage stamp, I wasn't really in any great position to argue with the lad. He did try to explain it all in great detail to me, but as he had quite a strong Eastern European accent, I only got about half of what he was saying.

Am deffo planning on becoming the worlds leading authority on DIY puncture repairs. I'm even looking up repair stands on the Chain Reaction website, so go me !!!

Nekarsulm

buy good solution (glue) Rema TipTop is German and I find it perfectly good. Also buy good brand patches. Avoid pound shop examples.

smacl

ProudDUB wrote: »

I'm even looking up repair stands on the Chain Reaction website, so go me !!!

Wouldn't bother with CRC for that one, the ones in Aldi that come up every now and again are cheap and work well. It is worth browsing the likes of Chain Reaction and Wiggle to get an idea of pricing, where you'd typically expect to pay about 25% more in a local bike shop (which is fair enough). €100 for one wheel for a cheap bike sounds a bit over the top, I'd expect a hybrid wheel to cost about half that.

beauf

I think by the time you change wheels you be close to the cost of Carrera bike on sale which would a decent starter and a lot less crap than any Apollo. Then sell the Apollo which makes the Carrera even cheaper. Or just go buy a decent make used bike.

http://www.adverts.ie/ladies-bikes/ladies-trek/6589719

ProudDUB

Ok, thanks again for all the great info.

Next round of questions.

Time to get a helmet. Don't wanna be a cheapskate on that, as I know it is important to get a good one. But I also don't need to drop unnecessary dosh on fancy brand names, or bells and whistles that I don't really need for my kind of cycling, which is (for now) fairly low speed, low intensity, city biking.

This is probably a stupid question, but can you wear a baseball cap under a helmet, or does that compromise how it fits? I like how the brim of the baseball cap keeps the wind out of my eyes. Being a glasses wearer, who can't wear contacts or afford prescription Oakleys, that is important. Do you need to get the helmet professionally fitted to your noggin, or do you just pick one out yourself & off you go?

I have a good rain jacket, but what do people do for their lower extremities? I haven't seen any rain proof shorts.

Puncture update - Day two and so far so good. I have yet to take it out for back to back cycles, without having a blown tire, but I'll throw a party when I do.

Bike maintainence & cleaning - what do I need to be doing to keep it in good running order & with what? It only goes (for now) on the Sutton to Fairview Park coastal path, which is pretty clean, so the mud ain't exactly building up. I bought a can of GT85 lubricant at Halfords. The dude there told me to spray it on the bike chain and other moving parts every so often. Is that all I need to do? I've been reading the bike washing thread & my God, its like an episode of McGyver in there ! :eek:

QueensGael

ProudDUB wrote: »

.

This is probably a stupid question, but can you wear a baseball cap under a helmet, or does that compromise how it fits? I like how the brim of the baseball cap keeps the wind out of my eyes. Being a glasses wearer, who can't wear contacts or afford prescription Oakleys, that is important. Do you need to get the helmet professionally fitted to your noggin, or do you just pick one out yourself & off you go?

I wouldn't wear a baseball cap under a helmet, I think it looks a bit gammy and they're also quite bulky.
I use a lightweight buff as a hairband to keep by hair back - you can wear them a couple of different ways, one of the handiest things you can get IMHO!
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/buff-original/rp-prod51435.


If you like having peak to keep out the rain/glare, you can wear a cycling cap under your helmet - they're thinner than baseball hats, and you can start a collection before you know it
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/nalini-bianchi-cap-2014/rp-prod92940

Finally, you don't need a pro fitting for a helmet. Just try a few models on in the shop. Expect to pay around €50-70 for a decent one.

Good luck with the punctures and wheels, you'll be all tricked out before you know it, and it'll be well worth it!

Qualitymark

I've heard Nutcase helmets recommended; keep meaning to get one myself. Helmets are so horribly uncomfortable and ugly…

If you're wearing shorts they don't need to be rainproof, I'd think; if you've longers on, you can get wets that cover them completely. Universally known as 'wets', they probably have a proper name…

As for the baseball cap under the helmet, that's just silly. This is the look you should be going for: stylish, comfortable, sophisticated.

EAD

Re saddle: the notion of toughening up may or may not apply. You may be sore but something's wrong if you're in real pain.
1. Do not use gel shorts with a gel saddle - does not lead to increased comfort
2. Softer saddles are not always more comfortable
3. Women need women's saddles - far too many women are sold men's bikes with men's saddles
4. Use a spirit level to check that saddle is level - slight tilt upwards will lead to serious pressure and serious pain
5. Saddle position may need changing - too far forward can be especially painful

Oh...and no underwear!!

Velotogo

For commuting and general cycling, I'd recommend Abus helmets. Most of their city and urban designs have an adjustment wheel to ensure the right fit as well as a built-in rear light and reflective strips to make sure you're seen.

If you do decide to upgrade your bike, go to a local, well-established and trusted bike shop. My LBS, Everest Cycles in Bray have been hugely helpful with their advice and expertise and have done quite a few on-the-spot and sometimes free repairs since I began cycling just over a year ago.

As quite a few posters have mentioned on here, Altura Night Vision jackets are really good and reasonably priced. Search for "Altura Night Vision Evo Jacket + tights - short visability test" on YouTube to see how effective the reflective strips are at making sure you're seen.

Cat Eye lights - 2 front and 2 rear is my set-up - are very good if you intend on heading out in darkness and want to be seen. The Rapid 3 type lights with the strobe effect are excellent at getting the attention of motorists, I've found.

EoghanIRL

Hey guys I've just started cycling in cork and I'm not used to city traffic .
Any tips ?

ProudDUB

QueensGael wrote: »

If you like having peak to keep out the rain/glare, you can wear a cycling cap under your helmet - they're thinner than baseball hats, and you can start a collection before you know it

That's brilliant, thanks. Something like that would be perfect. I didn't even know that cycling caps existed. I don't need a baseball cap specifically, just something with a brim that I can bend & shape to suit my forehead & how I see as I ride.

Qualitymark wrote: »

As for the baseball cap under the helmet, that's just silly. This is the look you should be going for: stylish, comfortable, sophisticated.

Going on my letter to Santy as we speak !

Velotogo wrote: »

Cat Eye lights - 2 front and 2 rear is my set-up - are very good if you intend on heading out in darkness and want to be seen. The Rapid 3 type lights with the strobe effect are excellent at getting the attention of motorists, I've found.

Good to get the Cats Eye endorsement there. A couple of weeks ago, I parted with a massive chunk of change for a set of them. After seeing so many cheaper light sets since then, I have been wondering, did yer man in the shop, see me as an easy mark. (Hence me asking so many slightly paranoid questions on here, about the finances of biking. Ya'll aren't trying to sell me stuff.) But it looks like he wasn't. Oops ! :rolleyes:

EAD wrote: »

Re saddle: the notion of toughening up may or may not apply. You may be sore but something's wrong if you're in real pain.
1. Do not use gel shorts with a gel saddle - does not lead to increased comfort
2. Softer saddles are not always more comfortable
3. Women need women's saddles - far too many women are sold men's bikes with men's saddles
4. Use a spirit level to check that saddle is level - slight tilt upwards will lead to serious pressure and serious pain
5. Saddle position may need changing - too far forward can be especially painful

Oh...and no underwear!!

Thanks. Lots of good info there. (But I WILL be ignoring the last bit ! ) Why are gel shorts not a good fit with gel saddles? Is there too much soft gel-ness going on and not enough support? A lad in a bike shop did tell me to get gel shorts if I am getting new shorts, as they mould to the body better, as you ride. Is that not true?

smacl

ProudDUB wrote: »

Why are gel shorts not a good fit with gel saddles? Is there too much soft gel-ness going on and not enough support? A lad in a bike shop did tell me to get gel shorts if I am getting new shorts, as they mould to the body better, as you ride. Is that not true?

Too much soft stuff around the crotch area gets compressed into hard stuff, which is going to get sore. The main soft stuff you should pay attention to is your ass, the sit bones of which should fit comfortably on the saddle. Padded shorts are a great help for longer journeys, but a saddle that is set-up to suit you is way more important. Everyone has their own preferences when it comes to saddles, so if you're not comfy on the bike, look at the saddle before the padding. Saddle height, angle and position is also massively important to comfort. Saddle width is also important, so you may need to try more than one if you're still uncomfortable after a number of weeks.

QueensGael

ProudDUB wrote: »

Thanks. Lots of good info there. (But I WILL be ignoring the last bit ! )

Seriously, she wasn't messing when she said no underwear. If you're wearing cycling shorts, you don't wear anything underneath or you'll end up with chafing and lots of other discomforts. Lots of women make this mistake when starting as no-one really tells you about it!

Here's more http://totalwomenscycling.com/road-cycling/technique/seven-essential-cycling-tips-379/