Tedder... good purchase/bad purchase

RightTurnClyde

What with the weather woes we are having, I'm considering getting a tedder. Well do ye think they are a good buy. None of the contractors around here have one.

bogman_bass

will they rake up after one?

RightTurnClyde

They said there'd be no issue. A couple of their customers have tedders and no problems.

Reggie.

Thinking for a while of getting one myself but can't make up my mind on it

mahoney_j

RightTurnClyde wrote: »

What with the weather woes we are having, I'm considering getting a tedder. Well do ye think they are a good buy. None of the contractors around here have one.

If you've ant high quality early silage then def get hold of a Tedder .i bought a second hand 6 rotor lely stabilo a few years ago and I ted all my pit and bale silage with it.really comes into its own in broken weather when opportunities are scarce.

Reggie.

mahoney_j wrote: »

If you've ant high quality early silage then def get hold of a Tedder .i bought a second hand 6 rotor lely stabilo a few years ago and I ted all my pit and bale silage with it.really comes into its own in broken weather when opportunities are scarce.

Do you find the 6 rotor slaps around much on the tractor

Zr105

Reggie. wrote: »

Do you find the 6 rotor slaps around much on the tractor

Do you mean as it works, as in one side will move forwards and back compared to the tractor? The lely wont because of the way 2 bars between the rotors and head stock work, they basically make it that the pivot point is further forward than it actually is and reduces the leverage that the rotors have to make it weave, it also makes it follow into a corner very well.
Other makes generally have the pivot right at the back of the head stock and the 6rotors will have a damper on them to try to stop the rotors getting from weaving

Robson99

Id buy a cheap tedder and a good rake. Hard to beat a rake before a baler

Greengrass1

Which would be the best make if tedder? Krone any good.
Seen a small fella rake down in Kildalton and looked okay

Zr105

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Which would be the best make if tedder? Krone any good.
Seen a small fella rake down in Kildalton and looked okay

Lely would get most lads votes once they worked them.

And on the rake i suppose it depends on what your doing really, just your own the fella would be grand as your not under massive pressure, but might be a bit light for lads out contracting

Reggie.

Zr105 wrote: »

Do you mean as it works, as in one side will move forwards and back compared to the tractor? The lely wont because of the way 2 bars between the rotors and head stock work, they basically make it that the pivot point is further forward than it actually is and reduces the leverage that the rotors have to make it weave, it also makes it follow into a corner very well.
Other makes generally have the pivot right at the back of the head stock and the 6rotors will have a damper on them to try to stop the rotors getting from weaving

No during transport

RightTurnClyde

Local dealer has a 6 rotor Kuhn in the yard ex demo. It ain't cheap but it seems like a lifetime machine.
My usual regime here was to mow day1 in the evening and then rake and pickup on the morning of day3
Mahoney would you say that the Tedder would pull in this much. Do you leave it long between mowing and tedding.

dharn

What about the wuffler type machines, I think they are brilliant, tedders tend to lump the grass and then just keep throwing that lump around, wuffler slow of course as it only does one sward at a time

Greengrass1

dharn wrote: »

What about the wuffler type machines, I think they are brilliant, tedders tend to lump the grass and then just keep throwing that lump around, wuffler slow of course as it only does one sward at a time

Going to borrow one to do my itailaian next week so I'll send what its like

Reggie.

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Going to borrow one to do my itailaian next week so I'll send what its like

Don't break it

Greengrass1

Reggie. wrote: »

Don't break it

Hope not. Ah im not that bad

Greengrass1

Zr105 wrote: »

Lely would get most lads votes once they worked them.

And on the rake i suppose it depends on what your doing really, just your own the fella would be grand as your not under massive pressure, but might be a bit light for lads out contracting

Ye it would only be for own use. So not under big pressure

mahoney_j

RightTurnClyde wrote: »

Local dealer has a 6 rotor Kuhn in the yard ex demo. It ain't cheap but it seems like a lifetime machine.
My usual regime here was to mow day1 in the evening and then rake and pickup on the morning of day3
Mahoney would you say that the Tedder would pull in this much. Do you leave it long between mowing and tedding.

You could take at least 24 hours of it.if I get dry weather I'd leave it 3 days and turn 3 times as I like to get it as dry as pissible.had bales at 64% dm last year and pit at 48% .the stuff looked and smelt so good you'd eat it yourself!!!
On buying second hand be carefull especially with Irish farmer owned machines.check for play on rotors and that it's well greased.mibe came from holland,had a lot of work done and well minded

Reggie.

mahoney_j wrote: »

You could take at least 24 hours of it.if I get dry weather I'd leave it 3 days and turn 3 times as I like to get it as dry as pissible.had bales at 64% dm last year and pit at 48% .the stuff looked and smelt so good you'd eat it yourself!!!
On buying second hand be carefull especially with Irish farmer owned machines.check for play on rotors and that it's well greased.mibe came from holland,had a lot of work done and well minded

Was it from that fella in limerick

mahoney_j

Reggie. wrote: »

Was it from that fella in limerick

Yep,cappamore

Daniel7740

Bought a lely 675 new last year. Lovely machine to use, well worth the investment imo. Wouldnt be seen with in a mile of a haybob after using it

Zr105

Reggie. wrote: »

No during transport

Shouldn't really but will depend on your stabilizers on the lower links more than anything, most of them have some form of locking mechanism to stop them pivoting when lifted, and also the outer rotors normally have a latch to lock them up when folded.

most of them will swing back to centre when lifted(like a haybob does) the lely will lock at whatever angle it's lifted at and stay at that angle till dropped again as they use a different system to lock it

Reggie.

Zr105 wrote: »

Shouldn't really but will depend on your stabilizers on the lower links more than anything, most of them have some form of locking mechanism to stop them pivoting when lifted, and also the outer rotors normally have a latch to lock them up when folded.

most of them will swing back to centre when lifted(like a haybob does) the lely will lock at whatever angle it's lifted at and stay at that angle till dropped again as they use a different system to lock it

If you hit a bump too hard I'd say there is a fair slap off it on the lift arms

John_F

Daniel7740 wrote: »

Bought a lely 675 new last year. Lovely machine to use, well worth the investment imo. Wouldnt be seen with in a mile of a haybob after using it

roughly what sort of money would ya be talking new. (pm if ya wish) on the shopping list here too but so is alot of other stuff :P lely seem to be the one

http://www.forum4farming.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10082

Reggie.

mahoney_j wrote: »

Yep,cappamore

He always has a few on the donedeal. What's he like to deal with? Does he deliver? The machines from holland are far better looked after than our own farm worked ones

John_F

Reggie. wrote: »

He always has a few on the donedeal. What's he like to deal with? Does he deliver? The machines from holland are far better looked after than our own farm worked ones

has he a name :rolleyes:

Reggie.

John_F wrote: »

has he a name :rolleyes:

Most of his ads are marked seller

yellow50HX

mahoney_j wrote: »

If you've ant high quality early silage then def get hold of a Tedder .i bought a second hand 6 rotor lely stabilo a few years ago and I ted all my pit and bale silage with it.really comes into its own in broken weather when opportunities are scarce.

Can they be used to rake as well? Can't see the point of buying a Tedder and a rake. Ideally it should do both jobs.

Reggie.

http://www.donedeal.ie/haybobs-for-sale/lely-lotus-460-tedder/7020521
Just made a lier out of myself :rolleyes:

Reggie.

yellow50HX wrote: »

Can they be used to rake as well? Can't see the point of buying a Tedder and a rake. Ideally it should do both jobs.

The lotus is the only machine that can do that but leaves the rows like a haybob and not a rake.

Zr105

Reggie. wrote: »

If you hit a bump too hard I'd say there is a fair slap off it on the lift arms

A bit, but to be honest any rake or Tedder is not the sort of yoke you'd do 40k on a rough road with, none of them are built for our roads. Their not actually that heavy to lift so not hard on a tractor, one thing you would find with a 6rotor is you need a reasonable enough lift height to get the outside rotors up clear of a decent swarth.

Yellow50hx the lotus 600(4rotor) will rake 2 swarths behind it but their not the tidiest of swarths. Its one job or the other IMO, jack of all trades master of none comes to mind.

Reggie.

Zr105 wrote: »

A bit, but to be honest any rake or Tedder is not the sort of yoke you'd do 40k on a rough road with, none of them are built for our roads. Their not actually that heavy to lift so not hard on a tractor, one thing you would find with a 6rotor is you need a reasonable enough lift height to get the outside rotors up clear of a decent swarth.

Yellow50hx the lotus 600(4rotor) will rake 2 swarths behind it but their not the tidiest of swarths. Its one job or the other IMO, jack of all trades master of none comes to mind.

I'd say the 6 rotor is a fair height above the tractor

Muckit

Reggie. wrote: »

The lotus is the only machine that can do that but leaves the rows like a haybob and not a rake.

Pz 360, pz jumbo 420, kuhn grs25n and I think fransgard have a T 4000 that does both

I'd be interested in purchasing one of these down rhe road. Anyone any first hand experience of these?

Reggie.

Muckit wrote: »

Pz 360, pz jumbo 420, kuhn grs25n and I think fransgard have a T 4000 that does both

I'd be interested in purchasing one of these down rhe road. Anyone any first hand experience of these?

Yes but I don't think they have the reach of a tedder

Zr105

Reggie. wrote: »

I'd say the 6 rotor is a fair height above the tractor

Ah not to bad really, carry it close enough to road and their not to bad, wouldn't be any worse than a silage trailer height wise

Conor556

mahoney_j wrote: »

Yep,cappamore

Dealing with real raw men around that country!

Reggie.

Zr105 wrote: »

Ah not to bad really, carry it close enough to road and their not to bad, wouldn't be any worse than a silage trailer height wise

I'd say ya wouldn't want to forget its there so not to hit anything

Zr105

Reggie. wrote: »

I'd say ya wouldn't want to forget its there so not to hit anything

Biggest problem with either a 6meter 4rotor or the over 7meter 6rotors is that they tend to be a full 3meters wide on the road, can be fun if you meet a truck or even just idiot in a car, the 675 lely's aren't to bad really

Reggie.

Zr105 wrote: »

Biggest problem with either a 6meter 4rotor or the over 7meter 6rotors is that they tend to be a full 3meters wide on the road, can be fun if you meet a truck or even just idiot in a car, the 675 lely's aren't to bad really

Ah with the tines sticking out....ouch

Zr105

Reggie. wrote: »

Ah with the tines sticking out....ouch

Yeah they'd leave some lovely scratches down the sides of a yoke! And depending on the tractor the wheels on the first rotor that folds up can be perfectly in line with the bloody mirrors...

Reggie.

Zr105 wrote: »

Biggest problem with either a 6meter 4rotor or the over 7meter 6rotors is that they tend to be a full 3meters wide on the road, can be fun if you meet a truck or even just idiot in a car, the 675 lely's aren't to bad really

So is there only a metre difference between the 6 and 4 rotor?

Zr105

Reggie. wrote: »

So is there only a metre difference between the 6 and 4 rotor?

Depends on the make, i know the lely models better than the rest but i think most makes have a size to match each,
There's a 5.2m 4rotor, 6m 4rotor, 6.75m 6rotor and a 7.7m 6 rotor, and then beyond that your into the big toys, they do up to a 12 or 15m trailed one....

You sort of need to match the Tedder to the mower for the first run, although you will get away with any of them if you take time, but after that it wouldn't matter.

If its a 10ft mower to catch the swarths properly it needs to be either the 6m 4rotor or 7.7m 6 rotor. The 6.75m will catch 2.5 swaths off a 10ft mower, but i think the 675 catches 3 8ft swarths perfectly

Reggie.

Zr105 wrote: »

Depends on the make, i know the lely models better than the rest but i think most makes have a size to match each,
There's a 5.2m 4rotor, 6m 4rotor, 6.75m 6rotor and a 7.7m 6 rotor, and then beyond that your into the big toys, they do up to a 12 or 15m trailed one....

You sort of need to match the Tedder to the mower for the first run, although you will get away with any of them if you take time, but after that it wouldn't matter.

If its a 10ft mower to catch the swarths properly it needs to be either the 6m 4rotor or 7.7m 6 rotor. The 6.75m will catch 2.5 swaths off a 10ft mower, but i think the 675 catches 3 8ft swarths perfectly

I'd be looking for a 4 rotor to catch two 10 foots if I do buy

yellow50HX

Have been thinking of getting a mower for my own stuff, have been knocking out the odd strong paddock and baling it over the last few years but contractor changes me per acre for mowing but by the bale for baling, wrapping and stacking so a heavy cut or light cut will cost the same to mow.

A trailered mower conditioner would be nice but I doubt I find anything in my budget range that hasn't been well dogged so I was thinking of a mounted disc one like a class disco. Have a ford 7610 and that ll drive one easy enough.

Thing with the disc mower I see is that with silage you won't get much of an even dry so they need to be tedded and then raked back in. I have an old haybob but I'd say they wouldn't be worth a damn on heavy wet grass and then trying to rake it in would be more trouble. So I spotted a rotonde in dealer recently and I got me thinking.

I know they are really only for turning grass and raking so if I had a 8-9 ft mower and cut my silage with it and leave it good and wide and leave that to wilt for the 1st day and drive the rotonde in to rake and turn in 2 swards to 16ft on the 2nd day into swards for the baler I wouldn't need to ted.

I could then use the old haybob for turning a few acres of hay and use the rotonde to sward the hay afterwards.

Anyone do something similar?

Reggie.

yellow50HX wrote: »

Have been thinking of getting a mower for my own stuff, have been knocking out the odd strong paddock and baling it over the last few years but contractor changes me per acre for mowing but by the bale for baling, wrapping and stacking so a heavy cut or light cut will cost the same to mow.

A trailered mower conditioner would be nice but I doubt I find anything in my budget range that hasn't been well dogged so I was thinking of a mounted disc one like a class disco. Have a ford 7610 and that ll drive one easy enough.

Thing with the disc mower I see is that with silage you won't get much of an even dry so they need to be tedded and then raked back in. I have an old haybob but I'd say they wouldn't be worth a damn on heavy wet grass and then trying to rake it in would be more trouble. So I spotted a rotonde in dealer recently and I got me thinking.

I know they are really only for turning grass and raking so if I had a 8-9 ft mower and cut my silage with it and leave it good and wide and leave that to wilt for the 1st day and drive the rotonde in to rake and turn in 2 swards to 16ft on the 2nd day into swards for the baler I wouldn't need to ted.

I could then use the old haybob for turning a few acres of hay and use the rotonde to sward the hay afterwards.

Anyone do something similar?

I know a local man who gets fields cut with 10 ft conditioner. Wilts for a day them rows up two rows together with that rotonde. Says does a grand job as rows are moved onto dry ground

Greengrass1

yellow50HX wrote: »

Have been thinking of getting a mower for my own stuff, have been knocking out the odd strong paddock and baling it over the last few years but contractor changes me per acre for mowing but by the bale for baling, wrapping and stacking so a heavy cut or light cut will cost the same to mow.

A trailered mower conditioner would be nice but I doubt I find anything in my budget range that hasn't been well dogged so I was thinking of a mounted disc one like a class disco. Have a ford 7610 and that ll drive one easy enough.

Thing with the disc mower I see is that with silage you won't get much of an even dry so they need to be tedded and then raked back in. I have an old haybob but I'd say they wouldn't be worth a damn on heavy wet grass and then trying to rake it in would be more trouble. So I spotted a rotonde in dealer recently and I got me thinking.

I know they are really only for turning grass and raking so if I had a 8-9 ft mower and cut my silage with it and leave it good and wide and leave that to wilt for the 1st day and drive the rotonde in to rake and turn in 2 swards to 16ft on the 2nd day into swards for the baler I wouldn't need to ted.

I could then use the old haybob for turning a few acres of hay and use the rotonde to sward the hay afterwards.

Anyone do something similar?

Have seen a few of those rotonde in DD and had me thinking too. Were going to change back hood on our 10ft krone mower and put in new modern flails next year on the conditioner so it'll spread out into wider swards. Ideas then would be to either buy a single rotor rake or one if those rotonde. Silage here is always sappy when opened in the winter.