My autonomous lawn mower thread/blog

KCross

Naturelle1 wrote: »

Hi everyone. I've been looking into the idea of purchasing an automower. I'm currently looking at the Husqvarna 310 and 315 models.

Can somebody tell me the difference between the 310 and 315 which makes one suitable for a 1000m2 lawn and the other for a 1500m2 lawn.

I'm asking this as i don't see any obvious difference between their specs.

Any info is appreciated.

The 315 has "spot cutting" and "weather timer".

Other than that the mowers are the same physically.

Spot cutting is where the mower senses that it has hit a patch of higher grass (relative to other parts of the lawn) and will then go into a spiral cutting pattern. I like this feature.

Weather timer is where the mower senses grass growth and adjusts its time spent cutting accordingly. The idea is to improve life expectancy of the battery and the mower in general. I have it in my mower but don't have it turned on. I just use the time based timers. My mower is 3yrs old and the battery is still the same today as it was when new.


I don't know how they have equated those 2 features to allowing the 315 cut 50% more area than the 310. Im sure there is some theory to it.

Naturelle1

Thanks KCross,

My lawn is approx 1100m2 so i would go for the 310 instead of the 315 if i could even though it is rated for a 1000m2 lawn.

Could probably do without the spot cutting and like you, just use the existing timer for differences in growth rate.

Thanks for the info.

KCross

Naturelle1 wrote: »

Thanks KCross,

My lawn is approx 1100m2 so i would go for the 310 instead of the 315 if i could even though it is rated for a 1000m2 lawn.

Could probably do without the spot cutting and like you, just use the existing timer for differences in growth rate.

Thanks for the info.

Hmm... that could be the wrong decision. You should buyer a mower that is over-spec'd for your lawn size not under spec.

They have the 310 spec'd for 1000m2 and you are saying you have 1100m2. That will mean you have the mower out a lot to cover that ground. During heavy growth periods it might even struggle to keep up and you could have a patchy lawn.

Maybe the 310 will be fine but you will have no comeback on the dealer if the lawn is patchy and you have an under-spec mower. The price difference isn't that much (€250?). You might be able to bargain the 315 for the price of the 310?

Look online as well, you might get a better price there for the 315.

Naturelle1

KCross wrote: »

Hmm... that could be the wrong decision. You should buyer a mower that is over-spec'd for your lawn size not under spec.

They have the 310 spec'd for 1000m2 and you are saying you have 1100m2. That will mean you have the mower out a lot to cover that ground. During heavy growth periods it might even struggle to keep up and you could have a patchy lawn.

Maybe the 310 will be fine but you will have no comeback on the dealer if the lawn is patchy and you have an under-spec mower. The price difference isn't that much (€250?). You might be able to bargain the 315 for the price of the 310?

Look online as well, you might get a better price there for the 315.

Yes, I think you are correct. In the long run it would be better not to have the mower maxed out all the time. Husqvarna have done something with the 315 to make it cut more grass then the 310 in a given period of time.

I'll do some further searching online to see what the best price might be.

KeRbDoG

I'm looking into getting a Husqvarna Automower 430X - I need to connect one half of the garden to another but there is limited spec for a 'connecting path' across a driveway. Has anyone had to do this before?

KCross

KeRbDoG wrote: »

I'm looking into getting a Husqvarna Automower 430X - I need to connect one half of the garden to another but there is limited spec for a 'connecting path' across a driveway. Has anyone had to do this before?

What do you mean by "limited spec for a connecting path across a driveway"?


You can get the mower to drive across your driveway but you would need to put down perimeter and guide wire on the driveway for the mower to be able to follow.

So, perimeter wire would go across the driveway a few feet apart creating a "passage" that the mower would drive within and then a guide wire in between the two perimeter wires so that the mower can follow.

Are you in a position to bury wire on your driveway?
Once the wire is in and there are no steps the mower will traverse the driveway no problem.

EDIT: Just taking a random house on google maps, you'll see what I mean about the wires. Its not to scale on the driveway crossing. In reality you could have that passage down to about 4ft wide.

KeRbDoG

Ah sorry, my concerns are that my driveway is loose stone and there is a step both sides.
Guidelines I'd be after would be the incline they can climb (to build a slope for it) and width needed of a pathway

KCross

KeRbDoG wrote: »

Ah sorry, my concerns are that my driveway is loose stone and there is a step both sides.
Guidelines I'd be after would be the incline they can climb (to build a slope for it) and width needed of a pathway

It will climb a 45deg slope as long as it can get grip so I don't think that will be an issue.

The loose stone could be an issue. It depends on how much loose stone you have. It doesn't have much ground clearance and if there is a lot of stone it could end up just spinning its wheels into the stone. Opposite to that, if you have big stones it might have issues driving over those. It needs to be relatively flat and driveable.

If there are steps on and off a kerb it won't work. You would need to create a ramp on/off the kerb.

The min width required is about 3ft I think, would have to read the manual again on that but Im not far out.

Could you post a pic of the proposed crossing point?

KeRbDoG

KCross wrote: »

It will climb a 45deg slope as long as it can get grip so I don't think that will be an issue.

The loose stone could be an issue. It depends on how much loose stone you have. It doesn't have much ground clearance and if there is a lot of stone it could end up just spinning its wheels into the stone. Opposite to that, if you have big stones it might have issues driving over those. It needs to be relatively flat and driveable.

If there are steps on and off a kerb it won't work. You would need to create a ramp on/off the kerb.

The min width required is about 3ft I think, would have to read the manual again on that but Im not far out.

Could you post a pic of the proposed crossing point?

Spoke to builder I had do other work on my driveway and the suggestion is that we just create a concrete (or cobblelock) footpath between the two garden sections since we have loose stone as a driveway surface, strong enough to allow a truck drive over it. The guide wire will be in the middle under the surface and 300~500mm either side under the pathway and perimeter wires (in conduit), with slopes either side to allow the mower up and down, thinking with a slope under 45degs.

Might you know the whats the max depth the guide/perimeter wires can be? Guessing under a solid surface it might need to be closer to the surface

KCross

KeRbDoG wrote: »

Might you know the whats the max depth the guide/perimeter wires can be? Guessing under a solid surface it might need to be closer to the surface

On grass, the max depth is 20cm.
Depending on your surface it will need to be less than that.

mayoman1973

Stuck in two minds between the John Deere Tango and the Husky 315?   Anyone got the former? It may be over kill for a 1000sqm lawn I think but not sure?   Also,  have been desiging a concrete kennel ( For security as we are along a main road )  2m long with 1 m wide opening  where the mower will drive in under and can only be accessed by lifting the well secured top off it. So mower can at least only be stolen when it is working outside.  Would this be a problem for the return to base functionality?

deadl0ck

mayoman1973 wrote: »

Stuck in two minds between the John Deere Tango and the Husky 315?   Anyone got the former? It may be over kill for a 1000sqm lawn I think but not sure?   Also,  have been desiging a concrete kennel ( For security as we are along a main road )  2m long with 1 m wide opening  where the mower will drive in under and can only be accessed by lifting the well secured top off it. So mower can at least only be stolen when it is working outside.  Would this be a problem for the return to base functionality?

It depends on how the mower comes out of it's base and starts to mow / go to other zones
I've the robomow and it back off a little and the goes around the docking station to get to subzones, and for the zone where the dock is it just backs off and turns a bit and starts to mow, so a structure around it would screw it up big time...

KCross

mayoman1973 wrote: »

Stuck in two minds between the John Deere Tango and the Husky 315?   Anyone got the former? It may be over kill for a 1000sqm lawn I think but not sure?   Also,  have been desiging a concrete kennel ( For security as we are along a main road )  2m long with 1 m wide opening  where the mower will drive in under and can only be accessed by lifting the well secured top off it. So mower can at least only be stolen when it is working outside.  Would this be a problem for the return to base functionality?

The Husqvarna can be "told" to reverse Xcm's before turning so it should be able to back out of the tunnel OK but I'd say you would have an issue with the docking.

The manual says it needs 3m free in front of the docking station.

From my observations of it, it doesn't drive all the way in in a straight line. It comes in close and then drives across the front of it to get its bearings (i.e. where is the centre of the docking station) and then it positions itself and docks. I'm not sure it would be able to complete that docking pattern in a 2m x 1m tunnel.

I'd say take a look at a youtube video of the Husky docking and you'll know then if it will work or not. My guess is it won't work.

mayoman1973

hmmm,  seems will have to do trial and error.  As in build temp walls each side and see how narrow/wide it can be before it has problems docking. Defo don't want to go spenting guts of £2k on something that can be swiped at the drop of a hat.

KCross

mayoman1973 wrote: »

hmmm,  seems will have to do trial and error.  As in build temp walls each side and see how narrow/wide it can be before it has problems docking. Defo don't want to go spenting guts of £2k on something that can be swiped at the drop of a hat.

It will be out on the lawn showing itself off for many hours per week so I don't really think hiding it in a tunnel will help a whole pile.

If someone spots it during the day and is hell bent on stealing it later they can, presumably, still put their hand into the tunnel and pull it out... its not locked to the docking station.

I know it will make it marginally more difficult to steal but I wouldn't go too far in trying to secure it. Have the docking station out of general prying eye view and maybe put an infrared camera on it. Thats about as much as you can do.

It does have an alarm and PIN on it if its lifted.

mayoman1973

Thinking night time cutting would get rid of a lot of prying eyes,  and snails too !!!   Maybe camera as you suggest might be best thing.

mayoman1973

Just had a Husky guy out to evaluate the lawn and seems I need the 430x model.  One thing he did say, that I have not seen online or heard from any other automower dealer is that these mowers are not that fond of bumping into things.  Better to have a guide wire around an obstacle as opposed to have it bump into it.  Any one got any experience good or  bad to back this up?  We have no flower beds that need protecting but have a trampoline ( with legs buried in ground ) and climbing frame plus big rock.  None of these will come to any harm is a mower bumps into them but surely I won't have to put a guide wire around a big 5 tonne rock will I?

KCross

mayoman1973 wrote: »

Just had a Husky guy out to evaluate the lawn and seems I need the 430x model.  One thing he did say, that I have not seen online or heard from any other automower dealer is that these mowers are not that fond of bumping into things.  Better to have a guide wire around an obstacle as opposed to have it bump into it.  Any one got any experience good or  bad to back this up?  We have no flower beds that need protecting but have a trampoline ( with legs buried in ground ) and climbing frame plus big rock.  None of these will come to any harm is a mower bumps into them but surely I won't have to put a guide wire around a big 5 tonne rock will I?

That doesn't make much sense.
You said you had a 1000sqm lawn and he is recommending a 430X for that!!!!

The 430X is for unto 3200sqm! The 315 is for 1500sqm. Surely the 315 is sufficient for you?!


If you have something that is fixed you should put wire around it. It will be less wear and tear on the mowers sensors but they are specifically designed to bump into things so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I would put the wire around the rock/trampoline etc though. Its not a lot of extra work and its a once off so why not.

mayoman1973

My 1000sqm was a rough estimate but he says main reason needing the 430 is that it has 2 guide wires and my lawn is U shaped with base station at the bottom of the curve so both wires are needed to help it return.  I spoke to another guy who has the 430 and he says he has never seen the mower using the perimeter wire to return to base,  always the guide wire.

KCross

mayoman1973 wrote: »

My 1000sqm was a rough estimate but he says main reason needing the 430 is that it has 2 guide wires and my lawn is U shaped with base station at the bottom of the curve so both wires are needed to help it return.  I spoke to another guy who has the 430 and he says he has never seen the mower using the perimeter wire to return to base,  always the guide wire.

Yea, the 430X has 2 guide wires. The rest of them only have one I think.

I have never seen mine use the perimeter wire to return either. The guide wires are the best way for that.

Thats a big step up in money for you though.

Any chance you could put the charge station at the top of one of the curves and then run the guide wire the full length of the U? That way the mower is never far away from that one guide wire?

Zzippy

mayoman1973 wrote: »

Just had a Husky guy out to evaluate the lawn and seems I need the 430x model.  One thing he did say, that I have not seen online or heard from any other automower dealer is that these mowers are not that fond of bumping into things.  Better to have a guide wire around an obstacle as opposed to have it bump into it.  Any one got any experience good or  bad to back this up?  We have no flower beds that need protecting but have a trampoline ( with legs buried in ground ) and climbing frame plus big rock.  None of these will come to any harm is a mower bumps into them but surely I won't have to put a guide wire around a big 5 tonne rock will I?

I have the 430X for a similar size lawn, maybe a little bit bigger. It bumps into trees, metal poles and a wall where the guide wire is close to the wall. The only damage is the Husqvarna decal sticker on the front has come off, otherwise bumping into objects is no problem - when you see how slowly the mower trundles around you won't be worried about the impacts!

cornet

mayoman1973 wrote: »

We have no flower beds that need protecting but have a trampoline ( with legs buried in ground ) and climbing frame plus big rock.  None of these will come to any harm is a mower bumps into them but surely I won't have to put a guide wire around a big 5 tonne rock will I?

Obstacles like trees are no problem and do not require a perimeter wire. The issue is your type of obstacles - the rock will scratch the body work and the mower may get stuck beneath the trampoline. Don't know much about the climbing frame but if large I would wire it off.

Tubber Man

I have a 430X cutting approx 3/4 acres and had an area with 6 Apples trees and a few Plants that I had protected from the Huskie. I eventually wired the area off as the Huskie spent 25% of it's time cutting in this area which was approx 10% of the total area so it was wasting time and battery life. I have also left the height at 8. The front lawn might not be good as I'd like but the over all result is spot on. I am very happy with the 430X, more importantly, so is my wife. The only control issue I have is the weather, trying to cut when the grass is not too wet.

Zzippy

cornet wrote: »

Obstacles like trees are no problem and do not require a perimeter wire. The issue is your type of obstacles - the rock will scratch the body work and the mower may get stuck beneath the trampoline. Don't know much about the climbing frame but if large I would wire it off.

If you were really worried about scratches you could tape some rubber to the vulnerable points, or some of that glue that cures to rubber (Sugru). I don't think it's worth going to the trouble of wiring off various obstacles that don't really hamper the mower's performance.

mayoman1973

Scratches wouldn't bother me.  So long as mower is able to handle bumping into the different obstacles.  I'm not too keen on having the lawn peppered with wires if I can avoid it ( guide wire being one that can't be avoided ) cause it would mean hollow coring the lawn and aerating it would be lot trickier with having to remember where these wires are.

Zzippy

mayoman1973 wrote: »

Scratches wouldn't bother me.  So long as mower is able to handle bumping into the different obstacles.  I'm not too keen on having the lawn peppered with wires if I can avoid it ( guide wire being one that can't be avoided ) cause it would mean hollow coring the lawn and aerating it would be lot trickier with having to remember where these wires are.

Mine (430X) bumps into trees and a block wall multiple times every day and I haven't noticed any scratches. It's designed to bump into things, and it works just fine bumping into things.

onefinemorning

So thanks to all the posters here in this forum and the excellent user reviews - finally today I took the plunge and ordered a HUSQVARNA AUTOMOWER 450X. We have about 1 acre or so split between two gardens (a large back garden and a smaller front one). Unfortunately no way of getting the automower to go from one to the other yet - so I will lift it from one location to the other every so often.

We have had it on trial for the last week and to say that I am overwhelmed would be a huge understatement - my wife is a huge technology sceptic and even she cant believe the finish on the grass and the fact that it rarely needs to be rescued.

The Automower Connect App on the phone is a huge bonus - only thing to figure out now is how often I need to replace the blades.

KCross

How does the lifting between gardens work?

That would require multiple lifts every few hours while it's cutting and then again when it's charged. That's a lot of babysitting, isn't it?

onefinemorning

KCross wrote: »

How does the lifting between gardens work?

That would require multiple lifts every few hours while it's cutting and then again when it's charged. That's a lot of babysitting, isn't it?

Yes good question KCross - not sure how it will work out but I will use the
"Selecting Secondary Area - Mowing until empty battery" option for a while and I may need to think about buying a second charging station if this becomes too manual. Not sure if I can pair one mower to 2 separate charging stations !!

Secondary garden is not very visible so even if I just drop the mover in there every second weekend or so it should be ok - time will tell I guess.

KCross

tbh, I wouldn't have recommended it if you couldn't connect the lawns.

Having to move it on a regular basis will get old quickly.

Any opportunity to connect the lawns?

You can't really leave it a week and then cut the 2nd lawn as it will take a while for it to catch up so multiple charge sessions where you have to let it cut, then move it charge, then move it out and back again.