machinery maintenance/fixes

Greengrass1

Thought it might be a good thread to start as it is the real season now
Any way I'll start it off.
Any one ever replace the bearings in the rubber rollers on a krone 1250 baler?
Is it a hard job.
Also any tips that ye have learned over the yrs from working round balers would be good

f140

if the sward is light go zig zag ways when baling the sward i.e don't keep in the middle of it the whole time as the bale will be soft at the sides. always keep shear bolts for the pto on the tractor and a Stanley knife. I don't know anything about the krone so cant give you anything specific

never power wash the around the chains bearings but just blow it off with the air.
keep chain oil to the chains. (theres probably a tank to put the oil in)
keep a good fire extinguisher up on the tractor and if you smell smoke stop straight away and check. its probably a bearing in one of the rollers or something.

Nekarsulm

If you hear a tipping noise starting from your disk mower, STOP AT ONCE.

probably a bent blade. Will chew through the bed in minutes. Put on a new blade.

frazzledhome

Do not get me to fix anything!!!

Greengrass1

frazzledhome wrote: »

Do not get me to fix anything!!!

In local dealers today. Lad in with same mower as ours bought around same time.
She was fcuked. Two back wheel bearings were in bits. Mower was all over place going up the road. Lad didn't give a ****e

blue5000

Best piece of preventative maintenance I ever did was welded a piece of pipe big enough to hold a grease gun right beside the door of the tractor, second best is use it often.

blue5000

This is a handy way of getting oil out of a 25L drum and into where there isn't a huge filler cap hole like the dipstick hole on vac tank pump etc.

Reggie.

blue5000 wrote: »

This is a handy way of getting oil out of a 25L drum and into where there isn't a huge filler cap hole like the dipstick hole on vac tank pump etc.

Good thinking

Nekarsulm

Don't know if this is a fix, or just guntering, but its cut about 30 acres so far with no problems.

Mad4simmental

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Don't know if this is a fix, or just guntering, but its cut about 30 acres so far with no problems.

Ahh ya, the good oul weld a bed. Lad over the road done one a few years ago and she went fine for a few years. Nice job!

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Don't know if this is a fix, or just guntering, but its cut about 30 acres so far with no problems.

Great job lad

mayota

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Don't know if this is a fix, or just guntering, but its cut about 30 acres so far with no problems.

Your a mighty man Nek. Good job.

emaherx

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Don't know if this is a fix, or just guntering, but its cut about 30 acres so far with no problems.

It's both, sometimes guntering is necessary!

Greengrass1

Trying to take king pin out of landini here all day today and yesterday. Have been heating it. No go. Anyone know of another way of getting it out. Have a sliding hammer welded to a bolt trying to get it out but not working

Nekarsulm

Are you using Oxy-acet or just an ordinary propane blow torch? You need oxy to get it all cherry red at the same time. Some times its good to heat and let cool completely several times without any beating. If that fails, can you weld a high tensile bolt to the top of the pin, and using spacers etc, pull it out? If all that fails, put it back together and give it to a main dealer. At least if he friggs up your axle, he has to fix it...............

Greengrass1

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Are you using Oxy-acet or just an ordinary propane blow torch? You need oxy to get it all cherry red at the same time. Some times its good to heat and let cool completely several times without any beating. If that fails, can you weld a high tensile bolt to the top of the pin, and using spacers etc, pull it out? If all that fails, put it back together and give it to a main dealer. At least if he friggs up your axle, he has to fix it...............

Just the ordinary blow torch. Its getting it fairly hot tbh but we've only heated it once. Need the tractor by Monday or Tuesday so don't think main dealer will gave it sorted in that length

Nekarsulm

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Just the ordinary blow torch. Its getting it fairly hot tbh but we've only heated it once. Need the tractor by Monday or Tuesday so don't think main dealer will gave it sorted in that length

You only think its hot. You really need someone with an oxy set. Heat the housing till tiny sparks start to fly off it. At this point the metal is almost ready to run, so be careful. You need a cutting torch, not a welding tip. The welding tip can not deliver enough gas and oxygen to get the whole mass of metal hot all round at the same time.

Zr105

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Trying to take king pin out of landini here all day today and yesterday. Have been heating it. No go. Anyone know of another way of getting it out. Have a sliding hammer welded to a bolt trying to get it out but not working

Last time we did one here we got bet, local mechanic called in with the welder and a lump of 24mm threaded bar, big pipe and a plate with 24mm hole, welded threaded onto the pin pipe over, plate on the on with nut, wasnt long coming off after that,
Strange thing was it'd turn fairly free in the housing but wouldn't come down at all,

Greengrass1

Zr105 wrote: »

Last time we did one here we got bet, local mechanic called in with the welder and a lump of 24mm threaded bar, big pipe and a plate with 24mm hole, welded threaded onto the pin pipe over, plate on the on with nut, wasnt long coming off after that,
Strange thing was it'd turn fairly free in the housing but wouldn't come down at all,

Never understood why they were called king pins.
Now I know

Zr105

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Never understood why they were called king pins.
Now I know

Could just as easily call them king pr**ks at times

Nekarsulm

If you break the end off the axle, we will require a photo........

Greengrass1

Nekarsulm wrote: »

If you break the end off the axle, we will require a photo........

That won't be another new tractor either...........I hope. I regret starting at them now

Nekarsulm

If you are defeated, and need the tractor Monday, Tap in a piece of shim steel, or very fine brass sheeting to take up the slack, grease the whole lot and work away till you get a chance to go at it again. Unless you have a front rake on it at silage, your in no worse a position than you were last Thursday.

Greengrass1

Nekarsulm wrote: »

If you are defeated, and need the tractor Monday, Tap in a piece of shim steel, or very fine brass sheeting to take up the slack, grease the whole lot and work away till you get a chance to go at it again. Unless you have a front rake on it at silage, your in no worse a position than you were last Thursday.

Well I got a bit carried away and chiseled off the outer casing of the top bearing. The top ones are fine its the bottom ones are fecked. She has to get new universal joints too.
Why didn't they just put grease nipples in them?

visatorro

That's why grease is the cheapest tool you can buy. Have two grease guns. One hanging outta the steps of the tractor. Iv only the one tractor so every implement gets a shot of grease when I'm using it. Learned the hard way nearly wrote off old case 895 due to it never seeing grease

Greengrass1

visatorro wrote: »

That's why grease is the cheapest tool you can buy. Have two grease guns. One hanging outta the steps of the tractor. Iv only the one tractor so every implement gets a shot of grease when I'm using it. Learned the hard way nearly wrote off old case 895 due to it never seeing grease

Id have greased them if they had put grease nipples on the bearing caps. None one the landini s and some of the Massey's.
That's how we had to get rid of the case but she had alit if work done

Reggie.

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Id have greased them if they had put grease nipples on the bearing caps. None one the landini s and some of the Massey's.
That's how we had to get rid of the case but she had alit if work done

All ya have to do it drill through the cap and screw in a grease nibble

Nekarsulm

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Id have greased them if they had put grease nipples on the bearing caps. None one the landini s and some of the Massey's.
That's how we had to get rid of the case but she had alit if work done

Have a Fiat 90-90, and of course the two bottom bearings are worn there as well. Got the two replacement ones today in the local NewHolland garage, ( they LOVE Fiat owners coming in asking questions ) and find that there are no balls/rollers in the bearing at all, just a convex inner race and a concave outer. Seems this was also the system in Case 5150's etc. Although the fiat has at least grease nipples fitted. Probably still going to have to weld something to the half that's in the axle to get it out. Pig of a job with blobs of weld falling on you........

Greengrass1

Reggie. wrote: »

All ya have to do it drill through the cap and screw in a grease nibble

Yep that's the plan. Won't be done this week. Might smdo it next.
Your Massey is prob like that?

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Have a Fiat 90-90, and of course the two bottom bearings are worn there as well. Got the two replacement ones today in the local NewHolland garage, ( they LOVE Fiat owners coming in asking questions ) and find that there are no balls/rollers in the bearing at all, just a convex inner race and a concave outer. Seems this was also the system in Case 5150's etc. Although the fiat has at least grease nipples fitted. Probably still going to have to weld something to the half that's in the axle to get it out. Pig of a job with blobs of weld falling on you........

They are called a plain bearing and I've never heard of one failing. Far better than the roller bearings. Once greased them bearings should never go really

Nekarsulm

Reggie. wrote: »

They are called a plain bearing and I've never heard of one failing. Far better than the roller bearings. Once greased them bearings should never go really

Well it is a 1986 tractor, and they are probably still the originals.

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Well it is a 1986 tractor, and they are probably still the originals.

That sounds about right. Put the nibbles in the caps for greasing them while you have them out

tomwaterford

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Trying to take king pin out of landini here all day today and yesterday. Have been heating it. No go. Anyone know of another way of getting it out. Have a sliding hammer welded to a bolt trying to get it out but not working

soak the f**k out of it with oil over night....you will need the oxy-acet...not a big fan of heating cast/any housing myself...but set up a pipe and axle stand under it..and make up a punch and sledge it out (be careful not to break axle though)...if taking too long...burn it out of it with gas...any more messing and you will have the price of it spend on labour:)

Zr105

tomwaterford wrote: »

soak the f**k out of it with oil over night....you will need the oxy-acet...not a big fan of heating cast/any housing myself...but set up a pipe and axle stand under it..and make up a punch and sledge it out (be careful not to break axle though)...if taking too long...burn it out of it with gas...any more messing and you will have the price of it spend on labour:)

You cant sledge a king pin out of a 4wd unfortunately! They have to be pulled out the way they went in..

tomwaterford

Zr105 wrote: »

You cant sledge a king pin out of a 4wd unfortunately! They have to be pulled out the way they went in..

agh the joys of it...pull it till you have pressure on it...then make up some sort of punch to work in at angle...a quick shock can work wonders....failing that id burn it out carefully and be done with it....esp since it a busy time of year

Greengrass1

tomwaterford wrote: »

agh the joys of it...pull it till you have pressure on it...then make up some sort of punch to work in at angle...a quick shock can work wonders....failing that id burn it out carefully and be done with it....esp since it a busy time of year

The bearings were 26 a piece and I've four IG them. I'd say two king pins woullld be hard got and pricey. Donrmt fancy having to burn it oit

tomwaterford

Greengrass1 wrote: »

The bearings were 26 a piece and I've four IG them. I'd say two king pins woullld be hard got and pricey. Donrmt fancy having to burn it oit

you shouldn't have to burn them out like....ive only seen it done twice ever and ive seen a fair few hubs and axles removed in my life!!

you try get second hand king pins/get them made up...they would usually always come like...when you have the pressure on them...hit your housing both sides to free them...failing that try heat axle(not a fan)...and if push come to shove...order them up and driveshaft seal if you are going the burning route.

Reggie.

Greengrass1 wrote: »

The bearings were 26 a piece and I've four IG them. I'd say two king pins woullld be hard got and pricey. Donrmt fancy having to burn it oit

That's not too bad. The bearings for the 398 are €48 apiece but they are big lumps of bearings tho. Make sure that you get genuine pins tho if your gonna replace them. Not worth the hassle putting in inferior parts

onyerbikepat

Could you make up something like this?

Reggie.

onyerbikepat wrote: »

Could you make up something like this?

Makes it look easy

Greengrass1

onyerbikepat wrote: »

Could you make up something like this?

That pushing then down though. Mine needs to come up

dharn

Any tips on removin the shaft on a vicon shaker the circlip at the bottom has been removed, the 2 side bearings have been removed the shaft is moving side to side so top bearing is gone not very badly though, have tried hitting bottom of shaft with big bolt and hammer but afraid of damaging the end of it as it has to pass up through the bottom bearing

onyerbikepat

Greengrass1 wrote: »

That pushing then down though. Mine needs to come up

Turn it upside down. :rolleyes:

Reggie.

Greengrass1 wrote: »

That pushing then down though. Mine needs to come up

Then just reverse it

Greengrass1

Reggie. wrote: »

Then just reverse it

Then the bottom king pin has to come out.

blue5000

dharn wrote: »

Any tips on removin the shaft on a vicon shaker the circlip at the bottom has been removed, the 2 side bearings have been removed the shaft is moving side to side so top bearing is gone not very badly though, have tried hitting bottom of shaft with big bolt and hammer but afraid of damaging the end of it as it has to pass up through the bottom bearing

Can you burn off the bearing with arc welder on 250 amp?

limerick farmer

dharn wrote: »

Any tips on removin the shaft on a vicon shaker the circlip at the bottom has been removed, the 2 side bearings have been removed the shaft is moving side to side so top bearing is gone not very badly though, have tried hitting bottom of shaft with big bolt and hammer but afraid of damaging the end of it as it has to pass up through the bottom bearing

I replaced bearings on my abbey spreader lately and i broke the bottom bearing with a hammere and chisel and complete wagtail lifted up then. I presume vicon is similar you have to take off the hopper and the plate that opens and closes as well

Reggie.

Greengrass1 wrote: »

Then the bottom king pin has to come out.

Are you on about removing the pivot pins then. These are the the ones near the hub that the bearings go onto. The king pins are the pin that the front axle swivels on in the middle under the engine just behind the tombstone

dharn

limerick farmer wrote: »

I replaced bearings on my abbey spreader lately and i broke the bottom bearing with a hammere and chisel and complete wagtail lifted up then. I presume vicon is similar you have to take off the hopper and the plate that opens and closes as well

Ya have the shaker completely taken apart looks like I will have to break the bottom bearing to get the shaft out even though the bottom bearing is ok

dharn

blue5000 wrote: »

Can you burn off the bearing with arc welder on 250 amp?

Ya might be an option, I have a few gouging rods would they burn better

Greengrass1

Reggie. wrote: »

Are you on about removing the pinion pins then. These are the the ones near the hub that the bearings go onto. The king pins are the pin that the front axle swivels on in the middle under the engine just behind the tombstone

Ohhh I didn't know that. Ye I'm on about the pins that the hubs move one. That you put the bearings on