Chainsaw will not start!!!!

Tomk6478

Hello there new here so hope you don't mind me posting about this! My tanaka chainsaw won't start and I've no idea why it's sparking fine it's had 2 different plugs in it and there's fuel flowing fine I've no idea why it start any ideas?

enfield

First thing is clean the air filter, second this is empty out the petrol if its been lying up for a while and put in a new mix. Make sure to use 50 parts petrol to one part oil.

Tomk6478

It's got a new air filter and freshly mixed fuel so it can't be them :L

Stella Virgo

does it have a manual "choke" ?. if it does pull it out for the first few pulls.

enfield

Forgot about the choke.

Tomk6478

Yes the chokes pulled out :L it's worked before for the last 3 years fine just not starting this year for some unknown reason

Lurching

Perhaps stating the obvious, but it's not flooded is it?
Have you left it a while between attempts?

Stella Virgo

if it is sparking,then it not getting petrol into the carb...try a spray of carb cleaner into it,and leave it for a few minutes..

2thousand14

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Renegade Mechanic

2thousand14 wrote: »

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I LITERALLY CAME HERE TO POST THAT!

Tomk6478

Nope it's not flooded the plugs not soaking and I've taken out the plug and pulled it a few times to check even tried the carb cleaner trick I've tried everything!

Renegade Mechanic

What type of chainsaw is it? Older or more modern?

Tomk6478

It's a tanaka chainsaw which is just over 3 years old with little use i tried out the exact same chainsaw which was 30 years old and used every week in a hardware shop and it's only had a muffler changed on it and it's still in same design being made so it's not some Chinese copy of a husqvarna or stihl saw and if you ask me tanaka saws are way nicer to use

Renegade Mechanic

Hmmmm.... Not sure what to say then.. Will it even take off just a little when your trying to start with the choke near closed? (Just under half open works well on some small 2 strokes aswell .)

Tomk6478

Nope never taking of or had bad timing and timings never been touched it's a mystery to me

Renegade Mechanic

You could test the spark. Put the saw on solid ground. Remove the plug and leave it against the hole with the lead on and turn it over. If theres a spark, your fuelling is most like the problem. Has someone else been twisting screws?:D
Just remembered while writing this a strimmer I had had the same problem. Turned out the little switch for the ignition had cracked internally so even when switch on, the current couldnt flow (this one had no spark).

Nekarsulm

enfield wrote: »

First thing is clean the air filter, second this is empty out the petrol if its been lying up for a while and put in a new mix. Make sure to use 50 parts petrol to one part oil.

Renegade Mechanic wrote: »

You could test the spark. Put the saw on solid ground. Remove the plug and leave it against the hole with the lead on and turn it over. If theres a spark, your fuelling is most like the problem. Has someone else been twisting screws?:D
Just remembered while writing this a strimmer I had had the same problem. Turned out the little switch for the ignition had cracked internally so even when switch on, the current couldnt flow (this one had no spark).

If the kill switch was faulty, he would not have a spark at all. grasping at straws here, but are you sure the assembly to lock the trottle open while starting, is working correctly? Is the rubber "boot" between the carb and the cylinder ok, not split open? and third and most unlikely scenario, could the saw have been dropped causing the flywheel to jar loose, throwing the spark timing out of kilter?

Nekarsulm

Tomk6478 wrote: »

Yes the chokes pulled out :L it's worked before for the last 3 years fine just not starting this year for some unknown reason

And you didnt lend it to a "friend" last autumn, who left it back with a hole in the piston?

bigblackmug

if it is the tanaka I think it is then it is a rebadged Partner 540. take off the air filter, throw a few drops of fuel in the carb and see if it kicks. check the operation of the choke with the air filter cover off; the butterfly should be closing over.

TomOnBoard

Remove the plug, empty the fuel tank and carburettor, put a shotglass full of NEAT carb cleaner in the tank, get cleaner to circulate through the fuel system (if there's a primer bulb, use 10-15 pumps), then LEAVE IT FOR A DAY. The neat carb cleaner will remove varnishes from the carb parts, jets etc. Next day, just fill tank full of proper mix, put plug back in, and send the usual mechanics' repair fee to my usual address :D

If that doesn't work, get it to yer local Saw Doctor..

.17hmr

steel drum put saw in drum pour petrol light at a safe distance :P

fergus1001

Needs to have the carb tuned bring it into the local chainsaw place to get that done

On a side note bring it to a lava pit and chuck it in there a hateful ball of **** of a saw

Buy a small sthil you will never look back

******bring on the Husqvarna fanboys*************

fergus1001

:

Oldtree

It may be the impulse line, mine became disconnected and saw wouldn't run. It drives the carb pump. This lads tips and videos are pretty good:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Td-Wf7x4nPc

Tomk6478

Thanks for all your replys found out it was a tiny tear in a membrane like piece in the carburettor that was at fault replaced it and it started straight up like it always done! Thanks for the replys And help much appreciated

Tomk6478

fergus1001 wrote: »

Needs to have the carb tuned bring it into the local chainsaw place to get that done

On a side note bring it to a lava pit and chuck it in there a hateful ball of **** of a saw

Buy a small sthil you will never look back

******bring on the Husqvarna fanboys*************

Actually had a stihl saw before it decided to just not work at all! Paid near to 400 and it lasted 4 years before we just got rid of it and got the tanaka saw and this is the first problem with it and it's lighter and nicer to use then the stihl

CJhaughey

Just some advice that may save you this problem again.
Use Aspen fuel, either premixed (red can) or mix your own with good 2 stroke (blue can).
Many of the problems with 2 stroke stuff is directly related to the poor quality of petrol and the alcohol that is added to it.
Ethanol will destroy the rubber used in the carb fuel pumps very quickly as you found out.
For the cost of a can of Aspen its cheap insurance.
Personally I mix my own at 40:1 because my stuff is tuned for it.
But longterm the benefits of clean fuel and good syn oil are apparent in small engines.

monkeynuz

although aspen is quite pricey, only really any good for occasional users.

CJhaughey

monkeynuz wrote: »

although aspen is quite pricey, only really any good for occasional users.

It is pricey in the 5 litre bottles but if you buy it in quantity it gets a lot cheaper.
I know several tree surgeons that use it exclusively as the health benefits of using it are quite noticeable.
No headaches from cutting in enclosed spaces etc etc.
Plus it doesn't wreck your carb like pump fuel. If you are a professional then you need to maintain your stuff in tip top shape, no good going for a job and finding your saw is kaput.

monkeynuz

There is no way I could justify using aspen professionally. I always use stihl hp ultra oil and mix in small batches.

TomOnBoard

Aspen has its place, particularly when you're operating in enclosed woodland with little or no wind to take fumes away. A few hours inhaling fumes from a 40 or 50:1 Unleaded mix has got to be extremely unhealthy. By contrast, fumes from the Aspen are almost unnoticeable if you believe the responses from users.

However, there is a lot of 'tosh' peddled about the beneficial effects of using Aspen on machinery compared to the use of normal mixes. And as for 'gumming' up the works, with the amount and flow of fuel in professionally operated saws, there is nothing an occasional blast of carb cleaner won't sort out. Its more the occasional user who might benefit greatly from this aspect of the fuel. And of course, don't leave fuel in the tank! That kills rubbers etc.

So for most professional users, I would see them using Aspen in special circumstances, with work out in the wide open being done with a 50:1 mix using a high quality 2-stroke oil.

monkeynuz

Has anyone here used stihl motomix fuel? And how does it compare price wise? Also what are people paying for aspen? My local guy wants €28 per gallon

sthilmick

@ 28 quid a gallon it would want to be some stuff considering petrol with good stihl/husky 2stroke works out @ 9 euro ish so sawing @ a gallon a day five days a week for 40 weeks a year allowing down time holidays and stuff is 1800 euro as compared to 5600 its a difference of 3800 euro a year that would buy a lot of saws in a year but if you cut 3800 euro more in the year then its worth it I guess

CJhaughey

monkeynuz wrote: »

There is no way I could justify using aspen professionally. I always use stihl hp ultra oil and mix in small batches.

Is it in chainsaws or strimming?
Saws don't tend to put as many hours up as strimmers, for strimmers I would use pump fuel as well.
But when you lay them up over the winter then run some Aspen through them before you store them or run them dry.
Pump fuel with Ethanol will attract water from the atmosphere, this forms a corrosive liquid inside the carb and is one of the main causes of poor starting in the spring.
Thats alongside the damage that ethanol does to the rubber components.
Aspen has a 5 year shelf life which is excellent for occasional users.
I know that in Scandinavia the hardware stores have Alkylate petrol under their own brand which is cheaper than Aspen.

Oldtree

I only use aspen in my saws and lawnmower too. I can no longer use either if I use ordinary mix as I get choked, perhaps cause I am used to the less fumy workspace health benefits outweigh any extra cost. So does vegi chain oil. U can use the less pollution as a added value sales tactic along with vegi chain oil spilled in the garden an not a mineral oil.

monkeynuz

So what do you pay per gallon for the aspen oldtree? I don't use saws at work, but I use vegi oil at home on my chain.

Oldtree

monkeynuz wrote: »

So what do you pay per gallon for the aspen oldtree? I don't use saws at work, but I use vegi oil at home on my chain.

I get my aspen from here, (they do 2 stroke 5l for home use too and aspen for the mower 4T): It is more expensive but the difference in my quality of life while working and not having the after effects of inhaling the ordinary burnt mix has to be experienced to be appreciated. Plus the overall pollution from my work is much less with the aspen and bio-oil which I am at pains to explain to customers. Aspen does appear to burn hotter imo so watch where the exhaust is going.

http://www.mower-power.com/shannonside/product.asp?numPageStartPosition=1&strPageHistory=cat&strKeywords=&strSearchCriteria=&PT_ID=206&P_ID=776&btnProduct=More+details

Big tub of Bio chain oil from the local Maxol distributer here:

http://www.maxolubes.ie/lubricants-products/65-forestry/maxol-bio-degradable-chain-oil

I have no links to the above companies, I just use their products and find them very accommodating.

Reindeer

Most 'bio' oil is 95%+ or more rapeseed oil. Rapeseed oil is usually sold in places like Aldi and Lidl as 'vegetable oil" and will state if it's rapeseed or canola on the ingredients. Sometimes you can get a lot of rapeseed oil for very little money. I use it exclusively.

Oldtree

Yes I have heard a few stories of people using vegi oil bought in the supermarkets with no adverse effects to the saws reported. However there are additives in the Bio chain oil that are suppost to aid lubrication and cut down on wear of the blade.

monkeynuz

Also chain oil bio or otherwise has added viscosity(grab) properties so it doesn't fly off the chain too quickly.

Nekarsulm

monkeynuz wrote: »

Also chain oil bio or otherwise has added viscosity(grab) properties so it doesn't fly off the chain too quickly.

Perhaps strain the old oil from your fryer and use it. added viscosity for sure!:D:D

monkeynuz

Not really.

Reindeer

I haven't noticed a bit of difference other than spending less on oil. I often run long bars and do chainsaw milling with the oiling working just fine. The viscosity of rapeseed oil is plenty adequate. I run the stuff on saws like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyxorZEKTNA

If it works on a saw like that, it should work on whatever you are using.

Nekarsulm

monkeynuz wrote: »

Not really.

It's well sticky by the time I get round to changing it!

TomOnBoard

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Perhaps strain the old oil from your fryer and use it. added viscosity for sure!:D:D

Cant do that im afraid- i use all my old oil for wood CHIPPING!

Boom! Boom!

Nekarsulm

aaaaargh

Oldtree

TomOnBoard wrote: »

Cant do that im afraid- i use all my old oil for wood CHIPPING!

Boom! Boom!

LOL:D

Oldtree

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Perhaps strain the old oil from your fryer and use it. added viscosity for sure!:D:D

Spoke to a man last year that did this and reported no problems. I havn't yet been brave enough to try it.

Floody Boreland

used supermarket oil on my Jonsered all last year but had to replace the bar this winter. never replaced before. back to ordinary chain oil now e10 for 5litres.

Reindeer

Floody Boreland wrote: »

used supermarket oil on my Jonsered all last year but had to replace the bar this winter. never replaced before. back to ordinary chain oil now e10 for 5litres.

Be sure to use rapeseed, most other veggie oils won't help nearly as much.

monkeynuz

Chain oil has "glue" added to it to minimise spraying using anything else is stupid and a false economy I will continue to use chain oil. It's like people who use cheap two strike oil as well.