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Best cattle slat

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    Has anyone ever seen the process for making slats. Was it wet or dry cast? Hown much steel and what size do they use?

    system varies some use a cage type structure for steel other just tie it in. I imagine taht it is wet cast with a dryish mix on a vibrating table


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,921 ✭✭✭onyerbikepat


    The reason I asked was I came across this on youtube;
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5VdnTgSOyU

    Coote Engineering with a drycast process.


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭einn32


    Best to ring the company and ask for the last three customers. Go see the slats in action. Then price can be considered.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    einn32 wrote: »
    Best to ring the company and ask for the last three customers. Go see the slats in action. Then price can be considered.

    If they were moving and dancing around I would not be buying them:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭einn32


    If they were moving and dancing around I would not be buying them


    True there should be no action!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14 kinners


    So Are ye saying NO to Coote Engineering ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    If they were moving and dancing around I would not be buying them:D

    that would or could be finish of wall top, got caught with that,was in crutches when shuttering being filled ,salesman drew it to my attention.
    one of those posted about above tried to make profit on my expense , gave me quote for £5000 , could not possibly do better,rang several times looking to know when i wanted delivery. when he realized i got quote near £4000, he offered to beat that so i told him to wrap them in cotton wool and keep them safe.if he reads, this he will probably recognize the advice.
    i must ring salesman to find out whose slats he sells, gave him a few customers locally

    btw i would make sure they were not laid by rear of truck mounted fork, heard stories of slats being cracked when laid by such reversing off after laying slats wheel in middle rear of fork taking all weight, should be laid preferably by crane imo, unless floor of tank really well set.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    kinners wrote: »
    Sandyman, What slat manufacturer did you use ?
    spoke to salesman Sat looking for price for single manhole slat , it's Corbetts he sell for, he quoted me £800 better than another maker on phone back in 01.beat that again when measuring tank.top of walls weren't in line so packers had to used ,fecking contractor and college kids working for him:mad:

    think he said around €500 euro ,covers 4' 6" for manhole slat,any view on price


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,262 ✭✭✭aidanki


    Jonty wrote: »
    Just as an aside lads, I worked in a soils/geotech lab testing concrete for a while. I can honestly say that Banagher Concrete would be the best in the country for precast concrete quality.

    not to go off topic but tell us more on concrete quality

    i.e. what tips do you have for anyone doing DIY mixing ? don't know why but it always appears that readymix lasts longer than that mixed with a mixer

    even making up a 5:1 mix

    there is atable on pg 2 of this brochure showing mix by volume given against strength N concrete http://www.irishcement.ie/wp-content/themes/irishcement/pdf/501_DL_flyer_1_V23.pdf


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭cjpm


    aidanki wrote: »
    not to go off topic but tell us more on concrete quality

    i.e. what tips do you have for anyone doing DIY mixing ? don't know why but it always appears that readymix lasts longer than that mixed with a mixer

    even making up a 5:1 mix

    there is atable on pg 2 of this brochure showing mix by volume given against strength N concrete http://www.irishcement.ie/wp-content/themes/irishcement/pdf/501_DL_flyer_1_V23.pdf


    Plenty of cement, and as little water as possible. Mix well, give it time.


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,619 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Another vote for Croom slats here, in about 4 years, only time sh1t built up was in frost. They were cheaper than seconds from Banagher at the time.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Another vote for Croom slats here, in about 4 years, only time sh1t built up was in frost. They were cheaper than seconds from Banagher at the time.
    one thing id watch is design of manhole and warranty for same, ive got Corbets and think its strong as ive driven and side-braked tractor on it several times cover twist a bit but nothing serious, but neighbours manhole cracked it was fixed but he was promised new gang slat with manhole later ,later has come and gone and still no slat replaced he's half afraid to drive on it now,think its cork based company but not 100% sure


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,921 ✭✭✭onyerbikepat


    aidanki wrote: »
    not to go off topic but tell us more on concrete quality

    i.e. what tips do you have for anyone doing DIY mixing ? don't know why but it always appears that readymix lasts longer than that mixed with a mixer

    even making up a 5:1 mix

    there is atable on pg 2 of this brochure showing mix by volume given against strength N concrete http://www.irishcement.ie/wp-content/themes/irishcement/pdf/501_DL_flyer_1_V23.pdf

    I always try and get as much air out of the poured cement as possible. If you are using timbers on the side, tap them gently with a lump hammer to work the air up.
    I always try and keep the cement wet on top for about a week after pouring. Curing is very important , from what I can gather.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    I always try and get as much air out of the poured cement as possible. If you are using timbers on the side, tap them gently with a lump hammer to work the air up.
    I always try and keep the cement wet on top for about a week after pouring. Curing is very important , from what I can gather.
    +1 for that suggestion and id try covering with plastic as well regardless of whether readymix or self mixed.
    i believe its important to allow mix to mix properly as you fill mixer with a little extra cement and water at start but sparingly towards end, had neighbour help me for a day and most of mixes appeared raw as he shovelled in as fast as possible, great man to work but bad mixer.
    and another tip i got from builder , beer bellies bad shape in man, good shape in mixers, ie avoid straight barrel mixers,get kind of pot bellied mixer barrel.most important he said get good gravel mix,of sand and chip, but i can't advise on that.apart from avoiding what he called rabbit sand.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 tiernan1


    TopCon wrote: »
    Croom concrete wouldn't have a great reputation around here....

    They are always cheapest though. Perhaps there is reasons for this. If you do go with croom I strongly advise checking all slats thoroughly as they come off the lorry.

    We bought from them a few years ago and they seemed ok? We ordered another load lately, what do we need to check for you think?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭Miname


    Have a couple of barrows of mortar mixed when the slats are going on and bed them down as the slats go on. Saves any rocking or shaking if there's any twist or variation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,381 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    Miname wrote: »
    Have a couple of barrows of mortar mixed when the slats are going on and bed them down as the slats go on. Saves any rocking or shaking if there's any twist or variation.

    And make it ip semi- dry


  • Registered Users Posts: 936 ✭✭✭st1979


    On the subject of readymix. I asked my lorry driver about the readymix. He was saying in the m3 there was only 175 litres of water which actually was full of chemicals which are to try and slow curing to improve longterm strength and 350 kg of cement. And you have to remember there are different strengths of cement available as well.
    On the chemical issue this is the reason the readymix burns your skin so badly. Or at least my suppliers does. I burnt the knees off myself when I was tamping 2 yes ago. Was fine for an hour and next thing my knees started to feel like they were on fire. The lorry driver told me of a guy in his 50's that was knee deep in foundation with work boots on. He didn't heed drivers warning as he said he was used to concrete his lifetime. He ended up getting skin graphs on his legs.
    So I guess long story short is home made concrete can never be as good as readymix due to the above


  • Registered Users Posts: 695 ✭✭✭3 the square


    Might try replacing some old cattle slats here before winter
    It's years since I purchased any
    Any recommendations who I should price from??


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,611 ✭✭✭Mooooo


    Kielys in Blarney, cork make a good slat


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭50HX


    Might try replacing some old cattle slats here before winter
    It's years since I purchased any
    Any recommendations who I should price from??

    can you does this under tams11 i wonder


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭jfh


    50HX wrote: »
    can you does this under tams11 i wonder

    Yes, I replaced slats recently, try campion


  • Registered Users Posts: 82 ✭✭goldsalmon33


    50HX wrote:
    can you does this under tams11 i wonder


    Hi OP, just wondering which slat you went for in the end? Croom? And how do you find it?

    In a similar situation myself. 75ft long tank. Just about to get slats. Just saw a shed recently whereby the owner had gotten slats with a smaller gap (35mm opening instead of 45mm) which he said helped in reducing lameness??? Any thoughts on this? Think he got them from Banagher.


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