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The Summit Film tonight 21.35 RTE1

  • 06-01-2014 6:15pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,930 ✭✭✭


    Reminder to anyone interested :)


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Have it set to record :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,452 ✭✭✭SomeFool


    duckysauce wrote: »
    Reminder to anyone interested :)

    just poped in to post this too!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 88 ✭✭pauld81


    Great show, loving it!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭foolelle


    anyone know where i can view the segment relating to this from the late late show the following month? can find it anywhere.

    Great documentary,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,061 ✭✭✭nomdeboardie


    Engrossing, though I'm thoroughly confused as to the who/what/when of it all (even without the acknowledged uncertainties and contradictions)!

    + I really wish the producers had used subtitles to identify the source of each piece of mountain footage as belonging to the expedition in question, "reconstructions" or previous expeditions etc. Going off on a tangent, more and more while watching documentary and 'informational' TV etc. I feel that I don't know what's 'real' and what's 'projected'; surveillance footage, candid camera, drama, 'reality TV', pseudo-reality TV, its all becoming a blur...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,306 ✭✭✭CardinalJ


    Jaysus it really is a bit grim. The reality of what those guys do I suppose. Pemba Gyalje is an amazing guy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,452 ✭✭✭SomeFool


    CardinalJ wrote: »
    Jaysus it really is a bit grim. The reality of what those guys do I suppose. Pemba Gyalje is an amazing guy.

    if you haven't read it, no way down is a good read.

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/No-Way-Down-Life-Death/dp/0141044063


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,292 ✭✭✭DubOnHoliday


    Can't say I enjoyed it due to the harrowing subject, and although I thought it was well done, I thought the last ten minutes was pretty rushed.
    Overall, you're left with the opinion that most of the people on the mountain didn't tell the full story.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Was a little disappointed, can see why reviews were mixed.

    The story was interesting, at least from an Irish angle, some of the characters involved were great men including Ger himself and Sherpa Pemba with incredible achievements.

    That whole area of "mountaineers survive disaster with conflicting accounts" is almost standard now, the Everest disaster spawned books of allegations and denials, even without disaster it seems that many great mountaineers are surrounded by controversy about things they did and didn't do and how it affected expeditions.

    But as nomdeboardie said above, it was the style that for me was the let down. There seeemed to be a lot of reconstruction, which any documentary maker can churn out these days. For me, it was a good story, not a good documentary It was like a kinda interesting programme on the History Channel, rather than a gripping film. For me the best documentary makers like Ken Burns can take a bundle of facts and photos and still tell an engrossing story, without relying on visual mock ups and reconstructions.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    Ditto - I was left thinking, this is one construction of what happened. But there could have been several other scenarios. It wasn't really explained or maybe I missed it, how the three Korean climbers became detached from the others and when they got into difficulties - was it during the night or the following morning. And why did Pemba and the two other sherpas 'abandon' the group and get themselves down to the camp? They obviously made the decision that they could reverse the awkward section without the fixed rope in place, did they discuss this with the others, did remaining climbers judge too tricky and decide to wait till daylight - more questions than answers.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭jamfer


    I believe that the starting place for this film was to clarify Ger's actions and place them in a different light. Having read No Way Down I was familiar with the main characters and their differing interpretations of events and it is only in the last quarter of the film that the point is made, that Ger wasn't out of his mind (as was quoted in the press), that he didn't just wonder off and die (as had also been quoted in the press), that he was the type who was not going to leave injured people on the mountain and that he was in fact aiding the injured people (who were left / passed by by others) and that as he was assisting the injured he was struck by an icefall and lost forever.

    In short, the film is telling us that Ger lost his own life as he attempted to save others, rather than the other narrative which was that he was overcome with delirium and wandered off and died


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    I missed the opening ten minutes or so, so maybe that was the setting. But if it was as you say, it was a long complicated way of making that point. I haven't read the book but I followed the events at the time. The scenario outlined at the end of this film was dependent, it seems to me, on the account given by Pemba. He said he had a radio call from the two sherpas attached to the Korean team who had gone up above and relayed that they said they were at the top of the 'bottleneck' section and encountered some Koreans and a westerner. That's from memory so I could be wrong. These were then all swept away in a serac fall so his is the only testimony on this? So you're still left with a situation as to who you believe?? It is also quite possible surely that Ger suffered from altitude sickness and became disorientated - there'd be no 'disgrace' in that, it'd be entirely understandable and reasonable in the circumstances. Regardless, he was some man.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,265 ✭✭✭jusmeig


    It would be worth reading the book if u have not:
    http://www.patfalvey.com/Newsflashes/Awards-Appearances/Books-Films-TV-reviews/The-time-has-come-New-book-about-Ger-McDonnell

    Pemba did some amazing feats on the mountain that night, in addition to the other Sherpa on the expedition. One of them (Sherpa Chhiring Dorje) free-climbed down the bottleneck and found another Sherpa who had lost his ice axes. Chhiring secured this Sherpa to his harness and managed to continue down and saved him....epic. As always the selfless Sherpas saved many lives that night.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,854 ✭✭✭✭silverharp


    I was surprised there was one guy there by himself. for something that that has a 1:4 chance of killing you , some of the people's lax attitude to planning was mind boggling.

    A belief in gender identity involves a level of faith as there is nothing tangible to prove its existence which, as something divorced from the physical body, is similar to the idea of a soul. - Colette Colfer



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    silverharp wrote: »
    I was surprised there was one guy there by himself. for something that that has a 1:4 chance of killing you , some of the people's lax attitude to planning was mind boggling.

    That was the Serbian climber? He was probably in the best position!! He could piggyback on the other groups in terms of fixing rope for the difficulties. He was tough, experienced and independent and wasn't relying on waiting for anyone else, could go at his own pace etc. I think he was one of the first to reach the summit and was heading down well within daylight.

    As far as I could judge from what we heard at the time and on the basis of the documentary, no one really knows the full story. If I had an issue with the documentary, it was that the final events were more or less presented as fact, whereas they were just one take on events.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,854 ✭✭✭✭silverharp


    BarryD wrote: »
    That was the Serbian climber? He was probably in the best position!! He could piggyback on the other groups in terms of fixing rope for the difficulties. He was tough, experienced and independent and wasn't relying on waiting for anyone else, could go at his own pace etc. I think he was one of the first to reach the summit and was heading down well within daylight.

    As far as I could judge from what we heard at the time and on the basis of the documentary, no one really knows the full story. If I had an issue with the documentary, it was that the final events were more or less presented as fact, whereas they were just one take on events.

    maybe he was fine, it seemed odd though going out there not knowing exactly what resources youll be sharing or who youd be depending on. I couldn't follow the programme fully but clearly there was some timing issues and rope issues where they started laying them too low wasting time and rope I assume.

    A belief in gender identity involves a level of faith as there is nothing tangible to prove its existence which, as something divorced from the physical body, is similar to the idea of a soul. - Colette Colfer



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    Probably was in the region and headed up towards base camp, knew there were several other teams on the mountain, that there was a window in the weather, that they would have fixed ropes for the most difficult sections. If I recall correctly, he had come up directly from Camp 3 and still arrived in Camp 4 whilst the other teams were still getting underway? Must be some tough cookie!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,930 ✭✭✭duckysauce


    BarryD wrote: »
    That was the Serbian climber? He was probably in the best position!! He could piggyback on the other groups in terms of fixing rope for the difficulties. He was tough, experienced and independent and wasn't relying on waiting for anyone else, could go at his own pace etc. I think he was one of the first to reach the summit and was heading down well within daylight.

    As far as I could judge from what we heard at the time and on the basis of the documentary, no one really knows the full story. If I had an issue with the documentary, it was that the final events were more or less presented as fact, whereas they were just one take on events.

    there were 2 guys there by themselves one of them seemed to be a complete muppet who did not bring Ropes with him, the other was a Spanish climber Alberto Zerain who knew his ****.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2008_K2_disaster


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    duckysauce wrote: »
    there were 2 guys there by themselves one of them seemed to be a complete muppet who did not bring Ropes with him, the other was a Spanish climber Alberto Zerain who knew his ****.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2008_K2_disaster

    Yes, Zerain was who I was referring to - Spanish not Serbian.

    1986 was another year of high casualties on this mountain. I think 13 people died over a period of a couple of weeks then, including Alan Rouse & Julie Tullis.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    BarryD wrote: »
    1986 was another year of high casualties on this mountain. I think 13 people died over a period of a couple of weeks then, including Alan Rouse & Julie Tullis.

    Alan Rouse seemed like one of climbing's great characters, colourful guy, think he had a wild streak. I really must get the book on his exploits.


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  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,530 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Is this on the RTE player? Missed it the night it was on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Mickeroo wrote: »
    Is this on the RTE player? Missed it the night it was on.
    Yes.

    http://www.rte.ie/player/ie/show/10239842/

    5 days to go ...


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,530 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Alun wrote: »

    Nice one, will watch it this evening.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31 Walter Sobchek


    Haven't read the book so wouldnt have the full story but from watching the documentary it seemed that the family of Ger were believing what they wanted to believe about him, That he died trying to save others. Surely if this was the case it wouldnt have been brushed over so quickly at the end of the programme and a lot more of the film would have been about this considering he was the person the film was based around.

    Mr Kim didn't come across too well.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 1,928 Mod ✭✭✭✭karltimber


    hi,

    Saw the summit during the week.
    Even though it was a tragic story, a compelling one all the same.

    Is there any other documentrays similar to this out there - about climbing (doesn't have to be tragic) as I though it was just fasinating the footage of them on top of that mountain.
    Not the same as Lug on a Sunday :)

    Thx

    oh, and I don't mean Cliffhanger with Silvester :rolleyes:

    K


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,530 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    karltimber wrote: »
    hi,

    Saw the summit during the week.
    Even though it was a tragic story, a compelling one all the same.

    Is there any other documentrays similar to this out there - about climbing (doesn't have to be tragic) as I though it was just fasinating the footage of them on top of that mountain.
    Not the same as Lug on a Sunday :)

    Thx

    oh, and I don't mean Cliffhanger with Silvester :rolleyes:

    K

    You've probably seen it already but if not then Touching the Void is probably the best one there is, great film. The book is also well worth a read.

    Into Thin Air, about the Everest disaster, is also another great read, may have been made into a film too but not sure.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    Seems to be a few documentaries/ films on the Eigerwand - north face climb. One I recall best was 'Eiger Solo' - a documentary of the first British solo ascent of the Eiger North Face. Welsh mountaineer Eric Jones' ultimate dream was to climb the notorious... weaves in the story of the early attempts and first ascent and it's tragedies.

    http://www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk=71&view=videos

    Seems to be loads of them on the site above but the Eiger Solo was a bit of a classic in it's day.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,818 ✭✭✭nerraw1111


    BBC4 did a great doc, The Eiger: Wall of Death. Basically the history of attempts on the Eiger.

    It's repeated this Tuesday on BBC 4 at 22.55


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,930 ✭✭✭duckysauce


    nerraw1111 wrote: »
    BBC4 did a great doc, The Eiger: Wall of Death. Basically the history of attempts on the Eiger.

    It's repeated this Tuesday on BBC 4 at 22.55

    Cracking Doc :cool:


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 312 ✭✭Gasherbraun


    karltimber wrote: »
    hi,

    Saw the summit during the week.
    Even though it was a tragic story, a compelling one all the same.

    Is there any other documentrays similar to this out there - about climbing (doesn't have to be tragic) as I though it was just fasinating the footage of them on top of that mountain.
    Not the same as Lug on a Sunday :)

    Thx

    oh, and I don't mean Cliffhanger with Silvester :rolleyes:

    K

    Try "The Last Great Climb". It follows Leo Houlding + team attempting the unclimbed NE ridge of Ulvetanna in Antarctica. No tragedy just a great climbing film.

    E11 is also a good watch. Follows Dave MacLeod over two years as he attempts to climb the worlds first rock climbing route rated at E11. Climbing on tiny fingertip holds and taking huge 80 foot falls.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,852 ✭✭✭Hugh_C


    it was the style that for me was the let down. There seeemed to be a lot of reconstruction, which any documentary maker can churn out these days.

    The reconstructions in this film were technically brilliant, difficult and overall, very expensive so it's neither true nor fair to say that any documentary maker can churn them out. For the Summit, crew and actors spent time in the Alps shooting the reconstructions, and then these were meticulously composited into 3d representations and photographic likenesses of K2.
    I spent a bit of time with Pat Falvey in Oct 2010 and his accounts of shooting the reconstructions are epic. Mind you, most of Pat's stories are epic …

    Reconstructions aside, I found the non-linear way of telling the story in the doc a bit confusing, and despite the fact that chronological telling of stories has gone out of fashion (anyone see the ROG doc?), I think the Summit would have benefitted from a more chronological storyline. I must admit, I've read "No Way Down" and this doc left me none the wiser, and with a slightly negative impression of climbers in general. Apart from Cecilie Skog who is both an amazing athlete and incredibly cute :)

    It's a positive thing though that such a (mostly) fine piece of film making comes out of this country.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Hugh_C wrote: »
    The reconstructions in this film were technically brilliant, difficult and overall, very expensive so it's neither true nor fair to say that any documentary maker can churn them out. For the Summit, crew and actors spent time in the Alps shooting the reconstructions, and then these were meticulously composited into 3d representations and photographic likenesses of K2.
    I spent a bit of time with Pat Falvey in Oct 2010 and his accounts of shooting the reconstructions are epic. Mind you, most of Pat's stories are epic …

    I accept that, but seems to me like money wasted. The scenes were reconstructions, and as I said I am not that gone on the whole idea of reconstructions because they can be churned out...even if these particular types of reconstructions are technically more difficult than others. Have to concede I can't remember one sequence that was so memorable that I'd say that must have cost a fortune in reshaping the Alps to resemble K2. I just am not that gone on that way of presenting a documentary. But as I said before, maybe I'm too fond of the Ken Burns approach.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,852 ✭✭✭Hugh_C


    But as I said before, maybe I'm too fond of the Ken Burns approach.

    Granted. There is often no other way to present a story though than partly through reconstruction.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Hugh_C wrote: »
    Granted. There is often no other way to present a story though than partly through reconstruction.

    Sometimes it may add something. The documentary referred to above, the Eiger, Wall of Death was a great documentary on some of the tragedies that faced expeditions, like the Toni Kurz tragedy. Little footage, no reconstruction, just well crafted and told, relying on a handful of photos and a great story. For me reconstructions are padding out and may sometimes be dumbing down. Which goes back to my earlier point, not sure there was enough there for a film in all of this, if they scaled back on the reconstructions and got a bit more technical (was there any independent assessment say by others who have climbed K2, not necessarily part of that weekend?) maybe I would have preferred it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,779 ✭✭✭Carawaystick


    karltimber wrote: »
    hi,

    Saw the summit during the week.
    Even though it was a tragic story, a compelling one all the same.

    Is there any other documentrays similar to this out there - about climbing (doesn't have to be tragic) as I though it was just fasinating the footage of them on top of that mountain.
    Not the same as Lug on a Sunday :)

    Thx

    oh, and I don't mean Cliffhanger with Silvester :rolleyes:

    K

    The BBC had a documentary on Peter Haebler and Reinhold Messner climbing Everest without oxygen in '78 the day after the summit was on RTÉ

    It was interesting watching the two docs, that the angle of K2 was much steeper than Everest, like 70 vs 45 degrees


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 784 ✭✭✭kirk buttercup


    Anyone know if RTE are showing this again I really wanted to see it but missed it and its gone from RTE player as well


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 943 ✭✭✭SNAKEDOC


    It's on you tube
    Type in k2 disaster (2008)
    Can't get the link up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 943 ✭✭✭SNAKEDOC


    My biggest question was how the American nick rice was able to put up his blog that Ger refused to come down the mountain the documentary does not show host that piece of info got of the mountain. Also the Koreans who failed to start putting up ropes on the bottle neck at the right time and stalled the assent which directly led to the first man falling. Had they kept to their word I think summit in would have happened earlier and everyone would have returned to camp four safely


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,779 ✭✭✭Carawaystick


    SNAKEDOC wrote: »
    Also the Koreans who failed to start putting up ropes on the bottle neck at the right time and stalled the assent which directly led to the first man falling. Had they kept to their word I think summit in would have happened earlier and everyone would have returned to camp four safely
    I don't think you can expect the same contract rules at 8000m as at sea level.
    The Spanish solo climber summed it up, you can only trust yourself and even then...

    Reinhold Messner in his writings mentions hallucinations at altitude, as does Chris Bonnington, and a host of other writers who've climbed high.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 943 ✭✭✭SNAKEDOC


    I understand that completely. Rescue yourself and all that but the korean leader was sat at camp 4 seen smoking a pipe when he had said he would check the ropes at the bottleneck and ensure they were there. He had been put in charge of this at base camp and agreed when your playing with lives you cant be so cavalier about responsability. He could have said no im not doing it pick someone else. The first climber fell as a direct result of his not doing what he said he would do. I see what your saying tht altitude does funny things to a man but these expeditions are not hashed together affairs. In parts of the film it seems that there was no planning but im sure it was quite the contrary. Its not a quick jaunt up lug. I think people have to be held accountable for inaction when they had the opertunity and had said they would do it. That man is the only reason the first man fell. I still believe had the summit attempt left on time and had the ropes been placed where they should have been (instead of having to stop halfway up the bottleneck to cut fresh rope)in a timely fashion the summit would have been a success with all parties returning to camp 4.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    Eh.. one thing is clear and that is that those present on the mountain at that time have different versions of what happened and when it happened. The documentary discussed here is like any such vehicle, it has to have an editorial slant - a view. So I wouldn't place too much store on it, anymore than a book or newspaper or internet article. I'm still not quite sure what it's purpose was? To set the record straight? To entertain? To remind people of the inherent objective dangers on high mountains?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 64 ✭✭hiromoto


    Interesting Question Barry D, maybe to make a few bob?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    The TV series, 'The Vikings' started on RTE2 last night. A good bit of it was shot on location at Lough Tay up at Luggala in the Wicklow Hills, the summer before last. At least I think that's what they were making there, had a settlement built on the shores of the lake etc. You'd recognise some of the terrain in the close up shots, deep bracken and scattered pine trees etc. Also some of the distant shots had views of the valley and cliffs but there seemed to be a lot of digital manipulation going on. Same again next week, RTE2 2130 - standard Hollywood material..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    BarryD wrote: »
    The TV series, 'The Vikings' started on RTE2 last night. A good bit of it was shot on location at Lough Tay up at Luggala in the Wicklow Hills, the summer before last. At least I think that's what they were making there, had a settlement built on the shores of the lake etc. You'd recognise some of the terrain in the close up shots, deep bracken and scattered pine trees etc. Also some of the distant shots had views of the valley and cliffs but there seemed to be a lot of digital manipulation going on. Same again next week, RTE2 2130 - standard Hollywood material..
    It was definitely around Lough Tay. Also more recent than that .. a couple of years ago was season 1 which is what they're showing on RTE now, they just finished filming season 2 last summer. The lakeside village was still there in August/September IIRC.

    They used many of the same locations for The Tudors and Camelot as well. There's a lot of CGI involved ... the foreground may be 'real' but there's often a lot of extra scenery inserted in post production. For Camelot they filmed a lot of the castle scenes at Ardmore Studios just behind where I live, and if I were to believe what I saw on the TV apparently I live at the bottom of a massive cliff overlooking the sea :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    Yes, extraordinary how reality can be morphed and bent these days - you just can't believe what you see :) I think there were shots of the cliffs of Carrigminnaun above Lough Tay with waterfalls pouring over them. There's a very notable overhang high on the crag which gives a good visual cue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    I enjoyed this doc. It was certainly imperfect, I think it was the first production by the director, and could have benefited from a good editor. For instance the Bonatti angle was completely superfluous and there was also a doubling up of part of the story (the joy of them arriving at camp 4 as I recall).

    I actually thought the reconstructions, in digital terms, were very good, the only naff bits were where acting was involved. Most of it I actually think was original footage as I've seen a good bit of the footage from youtube. Not sure if Pemba participated in some of the reconstructions.

    By far the most disappointing thing was the failure to properly articulate the evidence for Ger being a hero. To be honest, leaving aside the fact that his family would like to think that, I think that evidence is quite strong.

    We know that the three Koreans were stuck in the ropes. Both Wilco and Marco report encountering them there. Both of them also describe observing Ger helping them before each of them left. Marco says he left after Ger began climbing back up the slope, apparently not responding to him shouting (probably leading to the stories about him 'losing his mind)'.

    So as I say, we know they were hanging there all night, some of them upside down, some of them bleeding. One of them lost gloves, Wilco giving him a spare pair. There's also a photo, taken as it happens on Ger's camera by Pemba, given to him on the summit by Ger, where they can be seen caught in the ropes.

    We also know that they didn't die there. There's a later photo where they're gone, and Pemba climbed back up, made radio contact with another sherpa who told him that the three had been freed and were completing the traverse. Asked was there anyone else there this Sherpa said there was another climber and described his down suit, which Pemba believes was Ger's, but this climber was knocked off the face in an ice avalanche.

    This sherpa, and the Koreans with him, were killed shortly afterwards in another ice avalanche.

    Now here's the bit which might have been articulated better in the doc. The Koreans died in a fall more or less at the top of the bottleneck having completed the traverse. Whatever about people's memories at 8000m we know this is the case because Pemba took photos of their bodies (as an aside this is apparently the done thing in the mountains, rather than being macabre it provides hard evidence for families back home, insurers etc). Where those bodies were photographed is nowhere near the fall line of where they had been trapped earlier.

    So we know that the Koreans were freed from where they had been tangled and had managed to make their way to where they fell to their deaths.

    Now anyone who knows anything about the mountains, and about being above 8000m knows that the three Koreans, having spent the night out in the open, upside down and tangled up, didn't manage to free themselves and cross the bulk of the traverse. Its just not realistic. And the distance they had to travel, between the point at which they are photographed caught in the ropes (the same point at which Marco and Wilco record them being at, and record Ger helping them) and the point at which we know they died, is about 100m (I'm guestimating this from the photos). Either way, this is a very significant distance at that altitude, at least it is if you've spent the night out, hanging upside down, at 8000m. Moreover it involves relatively technical climbing across an ice traverse.

    These unfortunate climbers weren't able to help themselves. They hadn't been able to free themselves in the previous hours. Nor had Wilco or Marco succeeded in helping them. Someone got them free. And the only person who could have done that was Ger, who we know spent time helping them, and was last seeing helping them (one of the Pakistani High Altitude porters is also unaccounted for this point so in theory it is possible it was him, but there is no evidence it was, whereas there is evidence that Ger was helping them).

    And the last thing Ger is reported doing is climbing back up the slope.

    Now Marco's account led to the belief that he had lost his mind which the media seized upon at the time, desperate, as they often are, for quick answers without really knowing the questions. But another, quite feasible possibility is that he actually realised that in order to free them he had to climb up and cut the ropes that were tangling them. This is actually quite logical and may have been the only way in which to free them.

    We know in any event that Marco, understandably, wasn't in the best of shape at this time himself. This is hinted at in the doc, and Pemba gives an account of it. Marco it will be recalled collapses at the bottom of the bottleneck and falls asleep. When Pemba finds him it takes him ten minutes to rouse him and when he does Marco is angry with him because he is giving him bottled oxegen (to save his life) therefore depriving Marco of the claim to an oxegenless ascent (again this is a not unheard of reaction in the world of high altitude climbing where people develop a somewhat myopic perspective of the value of life and of perceived achievements in climbing terms).

    Marco also gives an account which is somewhat inconsistent with the narrative I'm setting out here in that he claimed to have seen Ger falling, and claimed to have come across his body parts, which in terms of their respective movements, doesn't coincide with Ger having helped free the Koreans. He gave a pretty graphic description of this but to be honest his account seems more like the high altitude halucination noted by another poster above. We know that Pemba was anxious to account for Ger and try and find him and he didn't. If you youtube Norit K2 you will find footage of Pemba the day after these events, i.e., two days after summitting K2, having spent the previous day climbing back up to help, climbing down and finding Wilco, and helping him down, his mental state is actually very good, clearly an impressive guy and I think his memory is to be trusted.

    So the Koreans are freed, manage to climb across the traverse, Ger is last seen helping them, having helped them (in Marco's account) for as much as two hours, having climbed upwards and having then been reported by the deceased sherpa as being hit by icefall shortly thereafter.

    I think the evidence is actually pretty strong that Ger McDonnell died having rescued those Korean climbers.

    If we add to that what we know about Ger from other people, the testimony of Pat Falvey who recalls that Ger in effect saved his life high on Everest and also the fact that Ger had previously participated in a similar rescue high on Denali in Alaska, that evidence becomes stronger.

    I didn't know Ger and don't know his family or have any connection with anyone involved in this incident. I'm just an armchair mountaineer. But I think a pretty strong impression of Ger comes across from that film. And he seemed to me a larger than life character, a fantastic ambassador for our country, and a person of deep principles and commitments, precisely the kind of person who wouldn't have it in him to climb past those Koreans knowing he was leaving them to their deaths. And he seemed like he was great craic too.

    There can be no proof at that altitude, in terms of people's recollections, but the camera doesn't lie. Those Koreans were freed and managed to climb a decent way across the traverse before they too were hit by icefall. They didn't do it alone and Ger was the last person left who could have helped them.

    I think there is very strong evidence that Ger McDonnell is a hero, a true Irish hero, whose memory should be honored by all of us. And if each of the people who head into those altitudes, and perhaps each of us in our own more mundane worlds, could take a bit of the way Ger lived his life into our own, the world would be a better place.

    He who saves one life saves the world entire

    *that took a long time, I should go to bed, but if it changes anyone's perspective or honours Ger's memory appropriately, its worth it :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,090 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    ^ Thanks for that very detailed and considered post.

    My own opinion is that in that situation, one's primary responsibility is to oneself (and by implication to one's loved ones). Fair enough if your best friend is the one in trouble, but even then...

    Having said that, the onus changes somewhat if there is a guide/client relationship involved - although even this could become moot in a life-or-death situation, regardless of the altitude. If, by delaying and trying to rescue another climber, you place yourself in a situation where it is very likely that you yourself will not survive, is that the right thing to do?

    In the final analysis, though, it comes down to a very personal decision. There should be no fault ascribed, no matter what that decision is. We who have not been there can have no real comprehension of the thought processes involved - especially in the scenario under discussion, where even basic mental functionning is at best impaired, to say the least.

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    Yeah I should point out that i'm not in any way critical of Marco or Wilco for not doing more - they absolutely made the right decision to move on, the proof of that is that both of them needed the help of others to get off the mountain, without which they would have died.

    In fact that's another flaw in the doc, the failure to tell the story of wilco's rescue, which is remarkable. Basically he was suffering snow blindness so he knew he had to get down. He could neither find the fixed ropes nor see where he was going, so he kept descending and got hopelessly lost.

    He hadn't had food or water for two days and ended up spending two nights out in the open without tent or sleeping bag, above 8000m. But how they actually found him is the most amazing part. He had a sat phone but he couldn't see properly so couldn't pull up the numbers saved on it. But he knew one number of a friend in Holland and could ring him by feeling the digits on the phone.

    He spoke to him a few times and he was able to relay to people still on the mountain that wilco was still alive, he was presumed dead at that stage, but no one in the lower camps could see him and wilco wasn't able to tell them where he was.

    It must have been a situation of utter helpness, so near and yet so far with a man's life hanging in the balance. But then the friend realised that the sat phone company would have GPS coordinates of the call. He got in touch with them and managed to pull a few strings to convince them to reveal the location, not easy because it's private data and Pakistan is a sensitive area Geo politically. But in the end they got the data for his last call before the phone died and realised he had climbed down the wrong side of the mountain, and was actually slightly below camp 3. They were able to relay this to pemba who was able to go out and find him and bring him back to camp.

    It's difficult to overstate how fecked you'd be after two nights out in the open at that height, snow blind with no food or water, but again you can see footage of pemba with wilco when he brings him back to camp on youtube and it's remarkable to see how with it the two are. I think wilco went on to lose all his toes. And is talking about going back to k2. Pretty single minded individual.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    I'm not a particular fan of this website, and you have to pay to read the full story (it used to be free as I remember reading it there) but you can see the photos from the day in the free bit which illustrate the points I make above. They awarded Ger the adventurer of the year award for 2008 after his story came out.

    http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=18038


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,852 ✭✭✭Hugh_C


    a148pro wrote: »
    It was certainly imperfect, I think it was the first production by the director, and could have benefited from a good editor.

    The director is Nick Ryan, and he's got a load of productions under his belt both as producer and director and other roles. A very experienced filmmaker …

    I'm a pro editor by trade and wasn't overly impressed with the non-linear telling of the story. It was over-complicated and the non-linearity of it was a weakness for me. As it happens, the editor, Ben Stark, won an award for The Summit.


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