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Finally, a great working setup

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    Boogietime wrote: »
    ...and just when I thought I was done with finicking... Here we go again.

    I currently have only .2mm kanthal, can I ask how many wraps would you recommend for a microcoil on this one?

    I will be purchasing whatever higher gauge kanthal you would recommend in the future but at the moment I've only the .2mm, two rolls of it to be precise.

    Having used both 0.32 and 0.28mm kanthal recently in pro tank heads I'd recommend using the 0.28 (despite rip trippers vid). The coil ends up very long due to the number of wraps needed to get the resistance above 1.5ohms with 0.32 and it's trickier to get it positioned so it's not touching the sides. Using 0.28mm and 12 wraps around a syringe tip (20 gauge maybe?) gives you 1.6-1.7 ohms. Probably less chance of the rubber burning and easier to push the rubber bit in too. Both give plenty of vapour:)

    You have to be fairly accurate with the second bit of cotton on top of the wick, too thin and it can flood, too thick and not enough juice will get to the coil. Might take a couple of tries to get it right but it's very easy to change out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Boogietime


    rickyjb wrote: »
    Using 0.28mm and 12 wraps around a syringe tip (20 gauge maybe?) gives you 1.6-1.7 ohms. Probably less chance of the rubber burning and easier to push the rubber bit in too. Both give plenty of vapour:)

    You have to be fairly accurate with the second bit of cotton on top of the wick, too thin and it can flood, too thick and not enough juice will get to the coil. Might take a couple of tries to get it right but it's very easy to change out.

    That's why I use a 2.something mm screwdriver to wrap the wire thus making a larger gap so that when I'm adding the wick I can put a bit more cotton in there and after that I gently unravel the cotton ends (because I don't want the coiled part to unravel too, it'll choke the airflow) then trim it just like a normal wick and voila, I don't have to put any cotton on top. Now to install the larger coil into the atty room I use a smaller 1.5mm screwdriver just to have it stay on the sides of the atomizer grooves while I add the base of the protank head (as the 2.something screwdriver won't fit in the side grooves) and that seems to do it just fine.

    The only thing I have to worry about is not to run completely out of juice, as this won't have any gurgling problems when the liquid gets low (happens on eVods or protanks, something about inner-tank pressure) so I did dryburn the cotton a couple times but one minute later I was a happy man with a fresh wick.

    On another note - I made a 32 gauge (.2mm) micro coil with 9/8 wraps and my vamo reads 3.2 ohm. On 3.9-4.1 volts it's something else though the same voltage on the vision spinner doesn't give half the vape. Cheers for the tip, grindle!

    That makes me wonder on the voltage, really. Now my normal 2.0 ohm coil works good on 3.8-3.9v on the spinner or on a fully charged evod battery but the same voltage on the evod is too much, with burns and all so I have to crank it to 3.0v to get the same amount/taste... Looks like the mod is in a different league and I honestly cannot explain why, maybe someone else can?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Boogietime wrote: »
    That makes me wonder on the voltage, really. Now my normal 2.0 ohm coil works good on 3.8-3.9v on the spinner or on a fully charged evod battery but the same voltage on the evod is too much, with burns and all so I have to crank it to 3.0v to get the same amount/taste... Looks like the mod is in a different league and I honestly cannot explain why, maybe someone else can?

    Could be a difference between each device's duty cycle or one or both of them might be tuned incorrectly, hard to know for definite without an oscilloscope.
    A 2ohm coil burning @ 4v sounds like the Kanger battery is in the wrong - 8w shouldn't burn on any device unless the wick isn't working.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    More than 2mm sounds too big for a protank evod head, have you tried using the 1.5mm screwdriver to wrap the coil around? The advantage of using a smaller diameter coil is so you can have more wraps and more coverage around your wick without having too high a resistance. You should try to get 8 or 9 wraps at least to get a decent amount of the wick covered.

    Grindle's right, it shouldn't burn. I remember when I had the twists at 4.5V they seemed to burn things quicker than a vamo would at the same voltage. I use a 1.5 ohm head on a VTR at 10-11W or 4.2-4.4 V and I've never had any issues. I even took it up to 15W "just to see" and it was fine. Vapour was a bit hot but no burning or anything.


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Boogietime


    I tried your advice and here's my best working setup so far:

    7/6 microcoil on a 1.5 diameter screwdriver - 2.2ohm

    more cotton than would normally be put in there but twisted really good so it fits inside the small diameter (i only twist the ends of the cotton so that I don't mess with what will be trimmed as the actual wick)


    no gurgliness, no issues whatsoever - working brilliantly with my spinner, standard evod battery and vamo v3.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Boogietime


    Noob question incoming for the guys with more experience here:

    Would a 28gauge (.32mm) work fine on a normal spinner or is it too much of a wire for the battery to handle?

    I'm thinking of a 6/5 or 5/4 microcoil with 1.2-1.7ohm in mind to give me better vapour production on the vision spinner or my backup crappy battery but I'm wondering about wire size/wattage throughput.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Wire thickness for the same resistance won't affect the battery's limits in any way, but it will allow you to crank up the heat a notch or two if you want (better heat spread = less burn-y in one spot).

    Not sure how well the Spinner deals with 1.2ohm resistances... Seems low for an eGo-style.

    A 1.5ohm coil would be ~9/10 wraps on if it's being wrapped around 2mm in diameter.


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Boogietime


    grindle wrote: »
    A 1.5ohm coil would be ~9/10 wraps on if it's being wrapped around 2mm in diameter.

    That's mad, I wrapped a 6/5 one and it's 2.4ohm... Could I be doing something wrong?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Boogietime wrote: »
    That's mad, I wrapped a 6/5 one and it's 2.4ohm... Could I be doing something wrong?
    And you're using the 0.32mm?
    I have no idea what you're wrapping around but 0.32mm Kanthal is 0.18ohm/cm - you'd need close to 14cm to get a 2.4ohm coil... which'd be 16 wraps around a 2mm diameter screwdriver. You sure it's 0.32mm Kanthal?

    0.20mm would give closer to that 2.4ohm reading with that 6/5 wraps.


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Boogietime


    grindle wrote: »
    And you're using the 0.32mm?
    0.20mm would give closer to that 2.4ohm reading with that 6/5 wraps.

    I was only considering the length in ohms... Didn't consider width at all. Thanks very much, problem sorted! I'll get my hands on a .32 and see how it goes!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 899 ✭✭✭StickyIcky


    Boogie time dude, if you're getting some 0.32mm which is 28 gauge, get yourself some 27 gauge which is something like 0.37mm and higher again, 0.42mm and make some really low ohm micro coils.

    But if you're doing that you need to be really careful going sub ohm that your battery is safe. You need a battery which has a high Amp rating.

    If you go to this ohms law calculator

    http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php

    put in 4.2 for the volts (as that's what 18650 etc batteries start on)
    put in the resistance/ohms of your coil
    then it will show you what amp battery you need.

    Most 18650 batteries are only like 4-6 amps so you need 10 amps at least for safe sub ohm vaping. Point is just be careful making coil with thick wire as it could lead to really low ohms and lots of stress on the battery and big boom in your face.


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Boogietime


    StickyIcky wrote: »
    Boogie time dude, if you're getting some 0.32mm which is 28 gauge, get yourself some 27 gauge which is something like 0.37mm and higher again, 0.42mm and make some really low ohm micro coils.

    But if you're doing that you need to be really careful going sub ohm that your battery is safe. You need a battery which has a high Amp rating.

    If you go to this ohms law calculator

    http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php

    put in 4.2 for the volts (as that's what 18650 etc batteries start on)
    put in the resistance/ohms of your coil
    then it will show you what amp battery you need.

    Most 18650 batteries are only like 4-6 amps so you need 10 amps at least for safe sub ohm vaping. Point is just be careful making coil with thick wire as it could lead to really low ohms and lots of stress on the battery and big boom in your face.

    So even a 1.8ohm would cause issues with my mod or with my spinner? I currently have a vamo with a 18650 in there and the aul vision spinner 1300mah...

    How come people are vaping sub-ohm? Are mechanical mods then able to push more wattage over the battery's limit?

    Now I'm completely in the dark :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Boogietime wrote: »
    So even a 1.8ohm would cause issues with my mod or with my spinner? I currently have a vamo with a 18650 in there and the aul vision spinner 1300mah...

    No.
    Boogietime wrote: »
    How come people are vaping sub-ohm? Are mechanical mods then able to push more wattage over the battery's limit?

    Now I'm completely in the dark :D

    They go sub ohm because most VV devices top out at 15w and/or because mech mods have a tiny profile. A mech mod with a good 18650 can far surpass what any regulated device that isn't connected to the mains can do although some of the Vamos can go higher than the 15w limit if you're comfortable stacking batteries (but that's extra battery baby-sitting which is a balls).


  • Registered Users Posts: 899 ✭✭✭StickyIcky


    Yip mech mods you can go up to 30 - 40 watts easily where as regulated mods usually 11 - 20 watts maximum.

    Anything over 1.5 ohms you'll be grand on everything. It's when you start going under that you can have problems. Some regulated mods like the vamo etc don't like anything under 1.4 ohms, they'll just say no I wont' fire for safety reasons.


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Boogietime


    Guys, I managed to get my hands on some 32mm (28 gauge) kanthal and rebuilt myself a 10 wrap on a 2mm and lowered by installing it using a 1.5mm screwdriver. It's giving me 1.4 ohms but I have to leave the top metal rod off a bit (not pushed in all the way, I'm worried for a short). Weird thing is I didn't order flat kanthal but it looks to be a bit flat, not perfectly circular tbh... Is it supposed to be like this? :D

    I simply cannot believe the wild amount of flavour! It's like it's playing in a completely different league altogether!!!

    But I'm still a bit worried, would 1.4ohm be ok on 3.5-4.1 volts? I've a sony batt 1850v3 and it says that it can carry 10amps without worries, I'm just afraid it's a bit too much though...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,096 ✭✭✭Mr. Chrome


    Your safe as houses with a 10amp battery. 4.1v at 1.4ohms is only 2.93amps. You could go as low as .5ohms with a fully charged battery at 4.2v. Check out ohms law, you can get some handy apps for your phone which will work it out for you.

    Don't think your wire should be flat, mine isn't, but if it works...it works!

    What battery did you say you have, is it an 18500?


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Boogietime


    Mr. Chrome wrote: »
    Don't think your wire should be flat, mine isn't, but if it works...it works!

    What battery did you say you have, is it an 18500?

    Cheers Mr. Chrome!

    It works, and it works magically - two of my colleagues can confirm, I've already made them a cotton wick for two coils, one on 1.6 and one with 12 wraps on 1.8 and they're working like magic!

    I have a Sony 18650v3 with 10a hold and another AW IMR - got it from the reviews... However the vamo won't vape on anything lower than 1.2ohm so I'll very happily settle for 1.4. By the way, would a VV batt be "aged" by this value as well? It vapes excellent, but then again I'm not too sure it can put out that much... It usually has to sit on 3.8v


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,096 ✭✭✭Mr. Chrome


    Do you mean the battery in the vamo? The vamo has 5amp limit AFAIK, some people say thats with stacked 350's and a 3amp limit with a 650...I'm not sure myself but either way the vamo will protect your battery from stress.

    A good battery for the vamo is the panasonic ncr18650b with 3400mAh which would last an average vapor a couple of days. They only have an amp rating of 6.5 so they're not recomended for unprotected mech mods.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,005 ✭✭✭JH_raheny


    Mr. Chrome wrote: »
    Do you mean the battery in the vamo? The vamo has 5amp limit AFAIK, some people say thats with stacked 350's and a 3amp limit with a 650...I'm not sure myself but either way the vamo will protect your battery from stress.

    A good battery for the vamo is the panasonic ncr18650b with 3400mAh which would last an average vapor a couple of days. They only have an amp rating of 6.5 so they're not recomended for unprotected mech mods.

    can vouch for those batteries, using them in my Tesla VW mod and can mostly get a full day of heavy vaping out of them, the odd time it'll run out late evening


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