problem with circulation, air in system?

timmy4u2

Two storey house. Large solid fuel boiler, 100, 000btus output. Grundfos 25/50 pump, newish, near to boiler. 22mm flow and return to/from rads. No sludge In system as drained and flushed every year. All rads are new, 6 aluminium low water content and six Solo rads, four Solo six's and two Solo three's.system is not zoned. Its an open system, the tank works as it should and does not appear to have any blockages.

Each time I drain down the system I have a lot of problems with air in the system, especially with a fewvof the upstairs rads.
This year the problem seems to be worse.
When I fill the system I do not have any problem bleeding it cold Up stairs and down stairs

bleeds fairly easily but when I have the heat on it will not heat up stairs and down stairs does not have a problem heating.
To get upstairs going I have to fully open, actually remove the bleed valve on the solo rad on the landing and when approx two buckets of water has drained off the hot water starts to come through.
It then requires days of bleeding and rebleeding of the upstairs rads to get the system working properly.
I did find some sags in the piping upstairs but these have been leveled out as good as is possible considering they run under the floor boards.

This year things seem to be worse. It has taken days to bleed the system with the removal of buckets of water.
I thought perhaps the pump was not man enough(solo recommend a 6mtr head pump) with the addition of the Solo rads but shutting down most of them does not change the situation.

I had the system near to working well up until last night. At approx 1am last night I found that all the rads upstairs had shut down as well as downstairs. The Solid fuel boiler was at 70 at the time.
I could hear water rattling in the pump but no air came out, the pump was working and running.
I could not find any air in the down stairs rads but upstairs eventually discharged some air. The system started working again after a few minutes.
Any idea what the problem could be?
The only way I can get upstairs to head after the drain down is when the pump is running and draining off loads of water.
I have taken to removing the bleed screw on each rad at a time and letting the water jet out for perhaps a minute or so and then the air spurts out and I close that moving on to the next one.
Is this method allowing air to get in?
I also saw elsewhere that the return valve should be shut off when bleeding. Is this correct?

Just to note I discovered that if the temp is allowed to reach 85 with the pump off it will heat all the upstairs rads on gravity.
Any help gratefully received

aujopimur

Why are you draining the system every year? the layout of pipework is causing the problem, high points etc.
When the ground floor clears close the rad valves, that should help to clear upstairs.

shane0007

I would never fit Solo rads with solid fuel. Far too restrictive.
Solos have their uses & work very well in the right circumstances but solid fuel ain't one of them or systems with just solos.

timmy4u2

aujopimur wrote: »

Why are you draining the system every year? the layout of pipework is causing the problem, high points etc.
When the ground floor clears close the rad valves, that should help to clear upstairs.

Well one year I needed to add a rad; another year I needed to move a rad another year again I needed to flush the system.
I did not have the problem three years ago, I did two years ago and last year and now this year.
To be honest the pipes are in a better situation now than two years ago as I propped them up and the water is circulating upstairs on gravity so from that I would expect that they are straight enough.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

I would never fit Solo rads with solid fuel. Far too restrictive.
Solos have their uses & work very well in the right circumstances but solid fuel ain't one of them or systems with just solos.

Could you elaborate please Shane. In what way are solos restrictive? They are full flow on the flow and return in that there are no valves etc. I have no problem with the solos down stairs and there are four fitted down stairs with just two upstairs.
I had the same problems up stairs with aluminium rads in the same location as the solos are in now.
The solos have made a great difference in the house and give out heat for a number of hours after the ordinary rads have stopped as the fire dies down.
Am I bleeding them properly or should the return be closed when bleeding.
Thanks for responding.
They do appear to be working much better tonight after my late night bleeding episode last night.

shane0007

Solos have extremely high resistance to flow, therefore a minimum of 3/4" pipework to them must be used. Also a minimum of a 6m head pump must be used. Maximum 6-8 rads on each circuit.
I have found a lot of cycling issues with boilers on systems with a lot of solos.
With solid fuel, being an uncontrollable heat source, the restrictive nature of the solos results in an overheat situation of the solid fuel boiler, resulting in pitching frequently.
The air issue will be a pipework issue not a radiator issue.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

Solos have extremely high resistance to flow, therefore a minimum of 3/4" pipework to them must be used. Also a minimum of a 6m head pump must be used. Maximum 6-8 rads on each circuit.
I have found a lot of cycling issues with boilers on systems with a lot of solos.
With solid fuel, being an uncontrollable heat source, the restrictive nature of the solos results in an overheat situation of the solid fuel boiler, resulting in pitching frequently.
The air issue will be a pipework issue not a radiator issue.

I have the 22mm pipework so ok there-I checked out the specs before hand. I do not have the six meter head pump but the 25/50 seems to be doing the job and I am slow to disturb the system now by installing a 6m pump in case I have to spend days bleeding again, although I do have new shut offs either side of the pump.

The heat from the solos is great really its the damn air that is my problem.
The pipes are reasonably straight now and the water will circulate on gravity so I assumed they were straight enough.
Straight or bowed I thought that bleeding off buckets of water would clear the air problem or am doing it incorrectly.

shane0007

Water, air, heat will always travel on the least path of resistance. You obviously have paths on high resistance within your system that is disallowing the air to naturally vent itself through the open safety vent pipe. Add that to the resistive nature of the solos.

Did you re-pipe your system to achieve 3/4" pipes to each solo as all heating systems would have normally 1/2" tails to the rads?

shane0007

Water, air, heat will always travel on the least path of resistance. You obviously have paths on high resistance within your system that is disallowing the air to naturally vent itself through the open safety vent pipe. Add that to the resistive nature of the solos.

Did you re-pipe your system to achieve 3/4" pipes to each solo as all heating systems would have normally 1/2" tails to the rads?

shane0007

Also do you have a combined feed, expansion & vent pipe?
I would pay particular attention to the locations of those pipes.

shane0007

Also do you have a combined feed, expansion & vent pipe?
I would pay particular attention to the locations of those pipes.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

Water, air, heat will always travel on the least path of resistance. You obviously have paths on high resistance within your system that is disallowing the air to naturally vent itself through the open safety vent pipe. Add that to the resistive nature of the solos.

Did you re-pipe your system to achieve 3/4" pipes to each solo as all heating systems would have normally 1/2" tails to the rads?

My flow and returns are 22mm and the tails are 15mm. The Solos require 22mm flow and return with 15mm tails as the piping on the solo is 15mm.
I even contacted them about the type of shut off valves that they showed in their literature as they would reduce the flow to about 8 or 9mm.
I decided to put in the larger ones with the red handled levers so that the flow and return at the tails would not be reduced below 15mm.

My flow and return pipes are the older Acorn pipes. They have one run of approx 5m long across the ceiling at the centre of the house and at the opposite end they tee onto 22mm that have a run of 10m approx-5m to the left and 5m to the right. The 15mm to the rads then tee off those pipes.
The house is a dormer so the 10m pipes are easily accessable and these are dead flat as they run on top of the joists. The only place the 22mm pipes could sag are on the 5m run across the ceiling but the system is able to gravity feed through these pipes.

shane0007

Acorn on the primary from the solid fuel?

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

Acorn on the primary from the solid fuel?

no copper to the hot press which is almost directly above the solid fuel cooker and then acorn.
Forgot to say also that the solid fuel cooker is thermostatically controlled so very good burning and heat control so I dont have problems with overheat in the boiler. The circulating pump is on no 1.

shane0007

& where are the f & e & the vent teed in?

shane0007

& where are the f & e & the vent teed in?

corkgsxr

You'd be surprised the difference a 6 metre head makes for blowing out air

shane0007

Solo even recommend using a 7m head pump due to the resistance.
OP, you still have not said if you have a combined vent & f & e.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

Also do you have a combined feed, expansion & vent pipe?
I would pay particular attention to the locations of those pipes.

Sorry for the delay in this but the bulb in the hot press was blown and as it is a screw type I could not get another last night.
Checked it out now. The feed is a half inch from the attic. There is a stopcock on it that is seized. After the stopcock there is a non return valve and then it tees into a 1" tee piece 1ft out from the bottom coil of the hotwater cylinder.
The pipe to the top of the coil is 1," the blow off valve is 6" out on that and then there ia a 1" tee piece with a 22mm reducer, a 4" long 22mm copper pipe and then a 22mm c acorn vent pipe to the attic

shane0007

There should be no valve or non-return valve on the feed & expansion!!!
System will just continuously pitch when hot.

shane0007

Have you an open safety vent pipe?

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

There should be no valve or non-return valve on the feed & expansion!!!
System will just continuously pitch when hot.

There is an open vent coming off the top of the coil 22mm. It is separate from the feed. It curves into the expansion tank.
The feed is a half inch teed into the bottom of the coil. It is the feed that has the stopcock and the non return valve.
Was that non return valve put there to ensure that there is gravity feed to the upstairs rads, as there is when the heat gets to 80ish?

shane0007

You must not have a non return valve on the feed. You have no expansion.
This is mostly likely your issue. Remove the non return valve as the system will just expand through the vent & re-oxygenate the system.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

You must not have a non return valve on the feed. You have no expansion.
This is mostly likely your issue. Remove the non return valve as the system will just expand through the vent & re-oxygenate the system.

I do not know who put the non return valve on it.
When I was away for a week about seven years ago the hot water cylinder leaked and the other half got a plumber to replace it. She also asked him to move the cylinder location as it was impinging on her need to expand her wardrobe
:P
If I remove that non return valve will I loose my ability to circulate by gravity upstairs? Gravity feed was there as a safety measure.
And if it looses my gravity flow ability could I put a motorised valve on it that would close in the event of power failure.
My cooker is an animal. 0 to 60c in less than ten minuts after lighting though it is thermostatically controlled it would still take time to cool down

shane0007

No. It will improve your system 10 fold & ensure it is safe. Water when heated will expand. The feed & expansion pipe allows expansion to travel back up this pipe into the feed & expansion tank in your attic. The non return valve is blocking this action. It will expand no matter what so it will expand through the vent. This will thus pitch water back into the tank, thus getting re-oxygenated. This brings fresh oxygen (air) back into the system & the cycle starts again.
Remove the NR valve & if may resolve your air issues.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

No. It will improve your system 10 fold & ensure it is safe. Water when heated will expand. The feed & expansion pipe allows expansion to travel back up this pipe into the feed & expansion tank in your attic. The non return valve is blocking this action. It will expand no matter what so it will expand through the vent. This will thus pitch water back into the tank, thus getting re-oxygenated. This brings fresh oxygen (air) back into the system & the cycle starts again.
Remove the NR valve & if may resolve your air issues.

Thats great. I will remove that non return valve tomorrow and replace the seized stop cock also.
Something is causing the air problem and it is not leaking.
Your genius is much appreciated

timmy4u2

I have just been reading pat35's. Thread where a balancer valve is mentioned. I do not have such a valve on my system.
Should there be a one or is it not recommended in a solid fuel system.
On the other coil, piped for oil but not used there is a gate valve.
From memory my first cylinder had three coils; one for the solid fuel boiler, one for the back boiler and one for the oil.
The back boiler was disconnected from the system some time previously as the other half felt it was taking from the heat to the room (now the fire is too hot).

From memory I believe that there was a gate valve on the return from each coil and when set the knobs were removed so that they could not be closed.
The replacement cylinderl is a twin coil and the gate valve is on the coil for the oil but not on the solid fuel coil.
Your observations would be appreciated.

shane0007

No valves, pumps, non return valves are allowed on the primary circuit for solid fuel so having no balancing valve on the solid fuel coil is correct & as it should be.

timmy4u2

I was also contemplating changing the pump for 6m head one. I came across greenpro pumps in Kildare. A 6m head pump is only €49.00 delivered.
Have you any experience of these pumps.
http://www.pumpanswers.ie/Shop.html

shane0007

timmy4u2 wrote: »

I was also contemplating changing the pump for 6m head one. I came across greenpro pumps in Kildare. A 6m head pump is only €49.00 delivered.
Have you any experience of these pumps.
http://www.pumpanswers.ie/Shop.html

I find you get what you pay for. I always only fit Grundfos. Pricier but a far superior pump. Changed to Wilo a few years as they were a bit cheaper but found issues with those, so I changed back to Grundfos again.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

I find you get what you pay for. I always only fit Grundfos. Pricier but a far superior pump. Changed to Wilo a few years as they were a bit cheaper but found issues with those, so I changed back to Grundfos again.

I tend to go for the better items myself hence the reason why I used alurad radiators and
TRV's on all rads except one and thermostatically controlled solid fuel boiler etc 26 years ago.
All are still perfect. I did change the Grundfos 15/50 pump with a 25/50 last year but that was only because I had the 25/50 sitting on a shelf for yonks.The 15/50 was working fine when removed.
Looking at the grundfos 6m they seem to be close to €200 and as I dont know if my system will need a 7m head pump I thought it better to try a cheap 6m one at first.
What did you find different when you changed from a Grundfos?

shane0007

Grundfos 25/60 should be circa €130 incl vat. You are probably being quoted for a modulating 25/60.
I just find much better circulation with them. I had a system where I fitted a Wilo. Poor circulation on a distant rads. Swapped out for another Wilo. Same issue. Swapped out for a Grundfos, no issue.
All 6m heads should be in the realms of each other but I have just found the Grundfos much better.

spireland32

No point in fitting a 6m head pump as you only have your 5m set to 1. Turn it 2 see how the solos heat or even 3. Check and make your the system doesn't pitch when you turn the speed up. You may need to change where the cold feed enters the system if it does.

We only fit grundfos pumps and now only fit the new modulating 4m-6m as standard. Very impressed with them.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

Grundfos 25/60 should be circa €130 incl vat. You are probably being quoted for a modulating 25/60.
I just find much better circulation with them. I had a system where I fitted a Wilo. Poor circulation on a distant rads. Swapped out for another Wilo. Same issue. Swapped out for a Grundfos, no issue.
All 6m heads should be in the realms of each other but I have just found the Grundfos much better.

You have me thinking now.I was going for a 6m to get better distribution.
On the web page they show tests that indicate it has better flow than the Wilo.

shane0007

spireland32 wrote: »

No point in fitting a 6m head pump as you only have your 5m set to 1. Turn it 2 see how the solos heat or even 3. Check and make your the system doesn't pitch when you turn the speed up.

So why would you go against manufacturer's instructions where they specifically specify a minimum of using a 6m head pump if not a 7m head pump. This is for the sole reason of overcoming the high resistence of the Solo pipework.
What affect on solo rad efficiency & performance will a 5m head pump have?
IMO, I would have thought that Solo will have undergone extensive laboratory & field testing of their systems & the outcome of their tests categorically state a minimum of 6m is required.

timmy4u2

spireland32 wrote: »

No point in fitting a 6m head pump as you only have your 5m set to 1. Turn it 2 see how the solos heat or even 3. Check and make your the system doesn't pitch when you turn the speed up. You may need to change where the cold feed enters the system if it does.

We only fit grundfos pumps and now only fit the new modulating 4m-6m as standard. Very impressed with them.

With the extra Solos now on the system I have the pump on no 2. Putting it on no3 makes it very noisy water wise in that it can be heard in the pump, in the boiler and in the nearest radiator.
I have never had pitching.
I understood that the speed of the pump was related with how long the water was in the boiler heating and the longer it was in the boiler the more heat was transferred to it.

spireland32

shane0007 wrote: »

So why would you go against manufacturer's instructions where they specifically specify a minimum of using a 6m head pump if not a 7m head pump. This is for the sole reason of overcoming the high resistence of the Solo pipework.
What affect on solo rad efficiency & performance will a 5m head pump have?
IMO, I would have thought that Solo will have undergone extensive laboratory & field testing of their systems & the outcome of their tests categorically state a minimum of 6m is required.

Shane, I know you like to be right on everything and know everything about everything. However if take a minute to read what I wrote, I didnt say dont fit a 6m pump. The OP stated his 5m pump is on 1, now I suggested turning up the pump speed firstly before spending € 130 on a new pump and see how the system works. I never said go against manufacturer's instructions.

shane0007

spireland32 wrote: »

Shane, I know you like to be right on everything and know everything about everything. However if take a minute to read what I wrote, I didnt say dont fit a 6m pump. The OP stated his 5m pump is on 1, now I suggested turning up the pump speed firstly before spending € 130 on a new pump and see how the system works. I never said go against manufacturer's instructions.

Firstly don't try to be so insulting. At least when I am asked a question I do not disappear to avoid answering it, so if you wish to enter a valid argument, keep it valid & not personal. If you disagree with what I post, attack the post, not the poster.
Secondly, you told the OP there was no point in fitting a 6m head pump. I beg to differ & offered the same advice as the manufacturer states. The manufacturer specifically states that a minimum of a 6m head pump must be used due to the reasons previously outlined. I have had lengthy conversations with their technical department in the past & they specifically require this. This advice, I passed on to assist the OP, and as you think.
If it is an economic choice then that is down to the OP. We, as so called professionals, IMO, should give the correct advice & then the person receiving that advice can therefore make an informed decision.

spireland32

shane0007 wrote: »

Firstly don't try to be so insulting. At least when I am asked a question I do not disappear to avoid answering it, so if you wish to enter a valid argument, keep it valid & not personal. If you disagree with what I post, attack the post, not the poster.
Secondly, you told the OP there was no point in fitting a 6m head pump. I beg to differ & offered the same advice as the manufacturer states. The manufacturer specifically states that a minimum of a 6m head pump must be used due to the reasons previously outlined. I have had lengthy conversations with their technical department in the past & they specifically require this. This advice, I passed on to assist the OP, and as you think.
If it is an economic choice then that is down to the OP. We, as so called professionals, IMO, should give the correct advice & then the person receiving that advice can therefore make an informed decision.

Disappeared?

Again youve missed what I wrote. I didnt say dont fit a 6m head pump. I said no point in fitting a 6m head pump if your 5m is set to 1. Turn it up firstly to see what results are achieved. It may give the OP good enough circulation. I suggested the new modulating 4m - 6m grundfos.

shane0007

spireland32 wrote: »

Disappeared?

Upon your last post in your thread, you made a specific claim of achievement & were asked to expand & explain upon it.

spireland32 wrote: »

Again youve missed what I wrote. I didnt say dont fit a 6m head pump. I said no point in fitting a 6m head pump if your 5m is set to 1. Turn it up firstly to see what results are achieved. It may give the OP good enough circulation. I suggested the new modulating 4m - 6m grundfos.

I read very well thank you very much. IMO "No point in fitting" means do not fit. There is a specific reason why Solo require a minimum 6m head pump to be installed.
What I take offence to is when I challenged your opinion, which you are perfectly entitled to have & I am perfectly entitled to challenge, you return with insulting waffle.
As I said if you disagree with what I post, then do so all day everyday, but why do you have to insult? Is that the best argument you could come back with, some school yard insults?
Funny how in the RGI Tech forum, it is just RGI's helping each other out with technical assistance & there is never any arguments. This forum seems to be getting about dancing around handbags & OP's threads constantly get sidetracked with somebody who just can't wait to get their little snide in.

timmy4u2

shane0007 wrote: »

Firstly don't try to be so insulting. At least when I am asked a question I do not disappear to avoid answering it, so if you wish to enter a valid argument, keep it valid & not personal. If you disagree with what I post, attack the post, not the poster.
Secondly, you told the OP there was no point in fitting a 6m head pump. I beg to differ & offered the same advice as the manufacturer states. The manufacturer specifically states that a minimum of a 6m head pump must be used due to the reasons previously outlined. I have had lengthy conversations with their technical department in the past & they specifically require this. This advice, I passed on to assist the OP, and as you think.
If it is an economic choice then that is down to the OP. We, as so called professionals, IMO, should give the correct advice & then the person receiving that advice can therefore make an informed decision.

The Pump is on 2 since I fitted the extra Solos and to be honest I do not see any difference in the rads when it is on one or two.
The rads and pipes seem to have overcome their air problems. I say seem.
I will need to fit a 6m pump because as you say the manufacturers state at least a 6m pump is required.
I will get the cheaper pump to start with as having fitted it I may need to change for a 7m pump if it is not effective.
In reply to spireland32 I stated that I understood that the speed of the pump was only relative to the time the water remained in the boiler but I did not get a response to it.

shane0007

spireland32 wrote: »

I suggested the new modulating 4m - 6m grundfos.

And what do you think a modulating pump is going to do on a restrictive system?
Modulating pumps work on back pressure building up on the negative side of the pump. I would have thought a high resistance system will produce a higher back pressure & force the pump into low modulation mode when high is required. Very suitable on well designed & well zoned systems to keep a consistent temperature difference between the flow & return of the boiler when differing number of zones open/close.

DGOBS

Guys, calm it down and behave or you will both be taking a holiday.

Attack the post not the poster

shane0007

DGOBS wrote: »

Guys, calm it down and behave or you will both be taking a holiday.

Attack the post not the poster

How did I attack the poster?

spireland32

shane0007 wrote: »

Upon your last post in your thread, you made a specific claim of achievement & were asked to expand & explain upon it.



I read very well thank you very much. IMO "No point in fitting" means do not fit. There is a specific reason why Solo require a minimum 6m head pump to be installed.
What I take offence to is when I challenged your opinion, which you are perfectly entitled to have & I am perfectly entitled to challenge, you return with insulting waffle.
As I said if you disagree with what I post, then do so all day everyday, but why do you have to insult? Is that the best argument you could come back with, some school yard insults?
Funny how in the RGI Tech forum, it is just RGI's helping each other out with technical assistance & there is never any arguments. This forum seems to be getting about dancing around handbags & OP's threads constantly get sidetracked with somebody who just can't wait to get their little snide in.

Hang on shane... Again your missing the point. The pump is on 1 so I said try turn up the pump and see what the heat is like from the solos. This may be a quick fix as in OP could try it immediately. And then at his own convinence could fit a stronger pump. IMO no point in fitting until he tired turning up the speed on the 5m pump does NOT mean do not fit a 6m.

You reply with a condescending attitude to my first post on this issue and then you talk about getting snide comments in. Pot kettle black. Dont know what this disappeared thing is but im extremely busy and also have better things to do than run home to my computer every day after work and log onto a forum.

OP if your system is noisy on speed 3 with 5m pump good luck with a 7m head pump. The speed 1/2/3 is the rpm of pump. The higher the faster it moves the water around the system.

DGOBS

I am not going to referee, too much bickering, bring it to an end

timmy4u2

OP if your system is noisy on speed 3 with 5m pump good luck with a 7m head pump. The speed 1/2/3 is the rpm of pump. The higher the faster it moves the water around the system.

As it is solid fuel I feel that the water needs to be in the boiler longer that if the heating agent was oil or gas.
It is on number 2 at the moment and number 3 is noisy. I know the extra speed moves the water faster but is that a solution.
In other words what will a 6m head pump do that a 5m head on number 3 wont do?
I dont quite understand what you mean by "good luck with a 7m head pump". Are you saying such a pump will be noisy?

spireland32

DGOBS wrote: »

I am not going to referee, too much bickering, bring it to an end

Apologies to DGOBS and OP for this nonsense.

shane0007

spireland32 wrote: »

You reply with a condescending attitude to my first post on this issue and then you talk about getting snide comments in. Pot kettle black. Dont know what this disappeared thing is but im extremely busy and also have better things to do than run home to my computer every day after work and log onto a forum.

And pray tell how is replying to you "asking" you questions about what the manufacturer of the OP system specifically states condescending?
Are you saying I am not allowed to question your posts?

Contact Solo yourself & ask them. If I install a boiler, I go by my regs & manufacturer's instructions. If I install a solar system, I go by my regs & manufacturer's instructions. If I fit Solo rads, I do the same. Better people than myself have gone to great lengths & costs in testing their systems & the various affecting components that affect their system, so I tend to follow what they say. If I have a query, I contact them & I have yet to find a manufacturer unwilling to assist.

I would hope if I make a statement that somebody feels is incorrect, that they would challenge me. That is how I learn & how we all learn, by questioning things. I just find it hard to learn from insults.

shane0007

timmy4u2 wrote: »

As it is solid fuel I feel that the water needs to be in the boiler longer that if the heating agent was oil or gas.
It is on number 2 at the moment and number 3 is noisy. I know the extra speed moves the water faster but is that a solution.
In other words what will a 6m head pump do that a 5m head on number 3 wont do?
I dont quite understand what you mean by "good luck with a 7m head pump". Are you saying such a pump will be noisy?

A 7m head pump will not be noisier than a 5m head pump. It will just move more water but not have to work as hard doing so.
The noise you are possibly experiencing is the noise of your initial problem, the air & on pump speed 3, the air is moving faster thus the air is noisier.
This issue must be resolved first & could well be related to an undersized pump, being unable to expel or move the air to the suitable vent points through a restictive system.

spireland32

shane0007 wrote: »

And pray tell how is replying to you "asking" you questions about what the manufacturer of the OP system specifically states condescending?
Are you saying I am not allowed to question your posts?

Contact Solo yourself & ask them. If I install a boiler, I go by my regs & manufacturer's instructions. If I install a solar system, I go by my regs & manufacturer's instructions. If I fit Solo rads, I do the same. Better people than myself have gone to great lengths & costs in testing their systems & the various affecting components that affect their system, so I tend to follow what they say. If I have a query, I contact them & I have yet to find a manufacturer unwilling to assist.

I would hope if I make a statement that somebody feels is incorrect, that they would challenge me. That is how I learn & how we all learn, by questioning things. I just find it hard to learn from insults.

I never said dont go by manufacturers instructions, I simply said try turning up the existing pump first. Thats it... nothing else. Never mentioned manufacturer's or ignoring them or anything of the sort. It seems im entitled to an opinion once it is the same as yours. Everyday's a school day as the fella says