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Looking for your advise

  • 06-11-2013 12:04pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭


    Hello all

    Im looking to buy a tractor in the new year.

    Budget = Max 15,000 Euro

    Use = lifting round bales, light rotary Moore work, spreading fertilizer, bringing cattle to Mart, transport box work, putting out a bit of dung, nothing major. Mainly round bale lifting.


    Can anyone recommend a tractor in the 15,000 euro bracket that would suit ?

    A 2 wheel drive tractor should do the job.............no need for 4 wheel drive I think. Probably one that's about 80 or 90 HP.

    Main attributes im looking for = RELIABILITY, a good lift, one that will start on cold mornings, a radio would be a bonus.

    Any help greatly appreciated.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,085 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    Did you not ask this excact same question about a month ago?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    Did you not ask this exact same question about a month ago?


    No, But I kinda copied it from that other thread. My requirements are different


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/zetor-5320/5910219
    only 60 ish hp but you dont need much more power for those job you listed maybe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/zetor-5320/5910219
    only 60 ish hp but you dont need much more power for those job you listed maybe

    Thanks, are Zetors normally reliable ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks, are Zetors normally reliable ?

    Yes they are another choice would be an MF 390 you may have to put in a hi-speed starter into them it solves the lazy starting issue. You should be able to get a 2WD with a shuttle for about 11K
    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/massey-ferguson-390/5497453

    With any tractor this age get a good mechanic or lad that knows tractors to check out. Go and view the tractor yourself first, check lift/pto engine see what play is in arm's steering etc etc. Check body and cab for rust then try and do the deal allow 500-1K for bit and pieces dependent on your mechanic finding it OK. No p[oint in paying a mechanic running all over the place checking same.

    Another option is a case 4320 2WD there may be afew right clean ones around.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    Yes they are another choice would be an MF 390 you may have to put in a hi-speed starter into them it solves the lazy starting issue. You should be able to get a 2WD with a shuttle for about 11K
    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/massey-ferguson-390/5497453

    With any tractor this age get a good mechanic or lad that knows tractors to check out. Go and view the tractor yourself first, check lift/pto engine see what play is in arm's steering etc etc. Check body and cab for rust then try and do the deal allow 500-1K for bit and pieces dependent on your mechanic finding it OK. No p[oint in paying a mechanic running all over the place checking same.

    Another option is a case 4320 2WD there may be afew right clean ones around.


    Thanks for that, are masseys over rated though ? and expensive ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,850 ✭✭✭9935452


    obi604 wrote: »
    Hello all

    Im looking to buy a tractor in the new year.

    Budget = Max 15,000 Euro

    Use = lifting round bales, light rotary Moore work, spreading fertilizer, bringing cattle to Mart, transport box work, putting out a bit of dung, nothing major. Mainly round bale lifting.


    Can anyone recommend a tractor in the 15,000 euro bracket that would suit ?

    A 2 wheel drive tractor should do the job.............no need for 4 wheel drive I think. Probably one that's about 80 or 90 HP.

    Main attributes im looking for = RELIABILITY, a good lift, one that will start on cold mornings, a radio would be a bonus.

    Any help greatly appreciated.

    id strongly recommend a 4wd tractor, its gives you more options,
    When you go 4wd drive its hard to go back to 2wd .
    you can travel ground when its borderline, less chance of getting stuck,
    if you ever want to buy a loader it will take to the job better that a 2wd.
    like drawing bales with a 390t 2 on the back one on the front.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    9935452 wrote: »
    id strongly recommend a 4wd tractor, its gives you more options,
    When you go 4wd drive its hard to go back to 2wd .
    you can travel ground when its borderline, less chance of getting stuck,
    if you ever want to buy a loader it will take to the job better that a 2wd.
    like drawing bales with a 390t 2 on the back one on the front.

    thanks, will a 4 wheel drive work out more expensive ?

    and is there more to maintain with a 4 wheel drive tractor ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 111 ✭✭jp6470


    Yes a 4wd,as it is more useful and hard to live without,will always be, a more expensive tractor.

    390 massey I don't believe are overrated.id nearly say,they are the top of pile,for the livestock farmer.still.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    can anyone recommend a Ford or a John Deere for the budget ?

    Are fiats/new holland any good ?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    Can anyone tell me what is an easy way to identify a 2 wheel drive tractor Versus a 4 wheel drive
    Is it as simple as the type of front wheels on the tractor


    Will a 4 wheel drive always have the chunky FRONT wheels like the attached picture - 4 wheel drive.jpg

    And then the 2 wheel drive will always have the plain FRONT wheels like in the attached picture - 2 wheel drive.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,850 ✭✭✭9935452


    obi604 wrote: »
    Can anyone tell me what is an easy way to identify a 2 wheel drive tractor Versus a 4 wheel drive
    Is it as simple as the type of front wheels on the tractor


    Will a 4 wheel drive always have the chunky FRONT wheels like the attached picture - 4 wheel drive.jpg

    And then the 2 wheel drive will always have the plain FRONT wheels like in the attached picture - 2 wheel drive.jpg

    basically yes though some lads will fit 2nd hand small 4wd tyres on the front of a 2wd.

    to answer your earlier questions about maintenance and cost of a 4wd.
    a 4WD will cost more to buy but will have a higher resale value if you sell. front tyres will be dearer to buy over 2WD front tyres.

    As regards maintenance, there will be a few more grease nipples to be greased and oil level in hubs/axel to be checked.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    Thanks for that.

    What do people think of the Case JXU 75 ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    The case Jxu are a great little tractor. The 70 might be a bit small though.

    As the lads have said before from your description of your needs get your self a 4wd. 2wd is fine for yard work and work in the dry and if you only need to do light loader work but as you are looking to lift silage bales then the 4wd is the way to go. Most chopped bales are around 700-800kg's nowadays so that is serious weight on a front axel even if there is a counter weight on the back.

    From some of your questions I take it you are a bit of a novice when it comes to tractor buying (no offence meant) but make sure have someone along with you when checking them out. I am no expert but I would try to read up as much as I can on the model before going to look at it.

    The 4wd will have a bigger and stronger front axel as this will contain a drive train and you will notice the drive shaft running under the engine from the gearbox. This allows it to carry more weight on the front. Yes they are more expensive but they also are more usable. Most of the time the 4wd is turned off anyway as you dont need it on for road work or driving around a yard or shed. You would end up wearing the tyres and drive more that way. What it's from is to front end grip mostly for filed work or drive through wet muddy fields.

    As for the make and model I have always had a liking for fords so for me (am I am looking around myself) I would be looking at ford/nh. The newer nh/case models are out of my budget but it I had the money I would go for a TL100 or JXU100. The seris 40 ford/nh (5640,6640,7740) are also good tractors too. Fiat make rubbish cars but they made great tractors so seris 90 or 94 or even the NH6635/7635 tractors are all very good. They may be pricey but will hold their value. If your going to spend about 15k no point getting a yoke you ll need to trade again in a few years.

    Some lads rave about zetors, I have limited knowledge of them but they do seem to be reliable, cheap to run and don't cost the earth. Masseys are also good but for some reason are very over priced even more so then the fords and JD's which are too pricey as it is IMO.

    Are you looking to trade in or sell another tractor?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    Obi some lads here are pointing you towards a 4WD. Can you tells us what sort of land you are on and how many bales you make, do you feed in a shed or in a ring feeder. How many cattle and what other sort of work you do with it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    yellow50HX wrote: »
    The case Jxu are a great little tractor. The 70 might be a bit small though.

    As the lads have said before from your description of your needs get your self a 4wd. 2wd is fine for yard work and work in the dry and if you only need to do light loader work but as you are looking to lift silage bales then the 4wd is the way to go. Most chopped bales are around 700-800kg's nowadays so that is serious weight on a front axel even if there is a counter weight on the back.

    From some of your questions I take it you are a bit of a novice when it comes to tractor buying (no offence meant) but make sure have someone along with you when checking them out. I am no expert but I would try to read up as much as I can on the model before going to look at it.

    The 4wd will have a bigger and stronger front axel as this will contain a drive train and you will notice the drive shaft running under the engine from the gearbox. This allows it to carry more weight on the front. Yes they are more expensive but they also are more usable. Most of the time the 4wd is turned off anyway as you dont need it on for road work or driving around a yard or shed. You would end up wearing the tyres and drive more that way. What it's from is to front end grip mostly for filed work or drive through wet muddy fields.

    As for the make and model I have always had a liking for fords so for me (am I am looking around myself) I would be looking at ford/nh. The newer nh/case models are out of my budget but it I had the money I would go for a TL100 or JXU100. The seris 40 ford/nh (5640,6640,7740) are also good tractors too. Fiat make rubbish cars but they made great tractors so seris 90 or 94 or even the NH6635/7635 tractors are all very good. They may be pricey but will hold their value. If your going to spend about 15k no point getting a yoke you ll need to trade again in a few years.

    Some lads rave about zetors, I have limited knowledge of them but they do seem to be reliable, cheap to run and don't cost the earth. Masseys are also good but for some reason are very over priced even more so then the fords and JD's which are too pricey as it is IMO.

    Are you looking to trade in or sell another tractor?



    Yellow. Thanks for that reply. Yeah, to be honest I'm posting on behalf of a friend of mine who can't be arsed creating an account but reads all the replies diligently.

    The bale lifting would be done at the back of the tractor, no need for a front loader.

    Would be looking at a trade in alright most likely.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    Obi some lads here are pointing you towards a 4WD. Can you tells us what sort of land you are on and how many bales you make, do you feed in a shed or in a ring feeder. How many cattle and what other sort of work you do with it.


    Pudsey, a lot of lads pointing towards 4wd ; )

    The land is relatively decent and flat. Make about 120 bales. Have the cattle in a 4 bay slated shed for the winter so all the feeding is done here. Only other work with bales is drawing them in in the summer when land is hard and that's a very short run.

    Spreading fertiliser, small bit of dung, nothin else too major.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    obi604 wrote: »
    Pudsey, a lot of lads pointing towards 4wd ; )

    The land is relatively decent and flat. Make about 120 bales. Have the cattle in a 4 bay slated shed for the winter so all the feeding is done here. Only other work with bales is drawing them in in the summer when land is hard and that's a very short run.

    Spreading fertiliser, small bit of dung, nothin else too major.


    A 2WD will do you often we add cost and work at no saving. A front loader that will handle bales and a 4WD tractor will add 5-10K to your costs. Only real reason that you would heed that bid a FL is to handle 1/2 ton fertilizer bags and stack bales 2 high.

    You can feed bales from back of tractor. I use a 675 o feed bales (350 of them) to cattle in a shed. 4Wd needs too big a turning area. Different if you were feeding outside in a ring feeder. The 390 with a shuttle will suit you. Get a few weights for the front and I think she will bring in two at a time if hydraulics are right. But if you are only doing 120 and have the time whay add cost to system


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    A 2WD will do you often we add cost and work at no saving. A front loader that will handle bales and a 4WD tractor will add 5-10K to your costs. Only real reason that you would heed that bid a FL is to handle 1/2 ton fertilizer bags and stack bales 2 high.

    You can feed bales from back of tractor. I use a 675 o feed bales (350 of them) to cattle in a shed. 4Wd needs too big a turning area. Different if you were feeding outside in a ring feeder. The 390 with a shuttle will suit you. Get a few weights for the front and I think she will bring in two at a time if hydraulics are right. But if you are only doing 120 and have the time whay add cost to system


    Have a decent slab that handles all the bales so no need to stack. Don't use them half ton fertilizer bags.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,161 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    A 2WD will do you often we add cost and work at no saving. A front loader that will handle bales and a 4WD tractor will add 5-10K to your costs. Only real reason that you would heed that bid a FL is to handle 1/2 ton fertilizer bags and stack bales 2 high.

    You can feed bales from back of tractor. I use a 675 o feed bales (350 of them) to cattle in a shed. 4Wd needs too big a turning area. Different if you were feeding outside in a ring feeder. The 390 with a shuttle will suit you. Get a few weights for the front and I think she will bring in two at a time if hydraulics are right. But if you are only doing 120 and have the time whay add cost to system

    I agree with Pudsey here. You really don't need a 4wd and 70hp is plenty. You are probably only doing 2-300 hours per year. In fact you probably dont need to spend your €15k budget. Just buy a nice clean un-abused machine thats 10-15 years old. Several makes and models have been mentioned to you already and they are generally all good choices.

    Here's a nice NH 70 hp same as the case JXU70, nice comfortable cab and a very good machine. Last you 20 years.
    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/new-holland-tl-70/5869288

    If you are not that experienced in looking at and fixing tractors, buy from a reputable local dealer and get a guarantee. You might pay €1000 more than buying privately but at least you know that tractor was checked over and you have some comeback. Extra money you paid is nothing when averaged out over the 10 or 15 years you have the machine.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    jimmy G M wrote: »
    I agree with Pudsey here. You really don't need a 4wd and 70hp is plenty. You are probably only doing 2-300 hours per year. In fact you probably dont need to spend your €15k budget. Just buy a nice clean un-abused machine thats 10-15 years old. Several makes and models have been mentioned to you already and they are generally all good choices.

    Here's a nice NH 70 hp same as the case JXU70, nice comfortable cab and a very good machine. Last you 20 years.
    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/new-holland-tl-70/5869288

    If you are not that experienced in looking at and fixing tractors, buy from a reputable local dealer and get a guarantee. You might pay €1000 more than buying privately but at least you know that tractor was checked over and you have some comeback. Extra money you paid is nothing when averaged out over the 10 or 15 years you have the machine.

    Jimmy. Thanks for advice. Probably about 200 hours a year is all that would be done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    TL70 looks a grand tractor do not know much about them. Clock hours may be hours as opposed to work hours on older tractors so it may have very little done. Going to a garage will cost you more than 1K more likely 2-3K. One thing about this tractor is that it is a northern number so there may be VAT onto it.

    Fine seat and cab, fine tyres back end looks very clean. Very little electrics and a shuttle. It a tractor I would check out and be willing to travel 150 miles to see if it suited. I would get a lad to check even if it cost a over 100 euro to do it would be a very good tractor for your situation if they are mechanically sound.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    If your not going to need a loader and it's all pretty much on a yard then a 2wd will be fine. That Tl foes look nice and handy but you would probably need to add weights to the front for lifting the bales as they are light up front. I'd still pefer a 4wd but something like a ford 6410,6610or 6810 with super q cab would come up well under your budget and last ya for years.

    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/ford-6810-series-3/5714483


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    The ford would be a good choice as well money very handy, no shuttle but not a floor shift either with weights she will lift two bales at the back as it has two hydraulic pumps. As far as I know the 6810 are the same as a 7610 she has a turbo and would be about 90HP. Again a good seat and a child can sit on the tool box at the side. There is a leg rest down the side of the cab for them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    jimmy G M wrote: »
    I agree with Pudsey here. You really don't need a 4wd and 70hp is plenty. You are probably only doing 2-300 hours per year. In fact you probably dont need to spend your €15k budget. Just buy a nice clean un-abused machine thats 10-15 years old. Several makes and models have been mentioned to you already and they are generally all good choices.

    Here's a nice NH 70 hp same as the case JXU70, nice comfortable cab and a very good machine. Last you 20 years.
    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/new-holland-tl-70/5869288

    If you are not that experienced in looking at and fixing tractors, buy from a reputable local dealer and get a guarantee. You might pay €1000 more than buying privately but at least you know that tractor was checked over and you have some comeback. Extra money you paid is nothing when averaged out over the 10 or 15 years you have the machine.


    Thanks lads. Thing about the above tractor and the same applies to the case jxu 75 - they both almost look like miniature tractors nearly, front wheels look terribly small or maybe that's just me.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    The 2 tractors linked above are waaay under priced. I'd be wary of a scam or a bodged tractor with both. Just look at the prices of other similar models. The NH is about Eur 5k cheaper than anywhere else and the ford is about Eur 4k cheaper than others.

    Plenty of con men out there with scams, stolen tractors and bodged tractors so be careful!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    reilig wrote: »
    The 2 tractors linked above are waaay under priced. I'd be wary of a scam or a bodged tractor with both. Just look at the prices of other similar models. The NH is about Eur 5k cheaper than anywhere else and the ford is about Eur 4k cheaper than others.

    Plenty of con men out there with scams, stolen tractors and bodged tractors so be careful!

    2WD tractors are starting to drop in price big time. Exporters for them are gone as far as I know. Everybody is looking for 4WD so 2WD tractors are getting cheaper all the time. Do not know about the TL70 but would not consider the 6810 that far under priced. Owner may have bought straight at a good price and want it moved on.

    Yes there are conmen and scammers but if tractor is Irish Reg you can use one of the car check sites ( I have used mywheels.ie to check) to confirm reg and some of the data on it. Make sure like buying a car you buy out of the yard and take down car reg etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    2WD tractors are starting to drop in price big time. Exporters for them are gone as far as I know. Everybody is looking for 4WD so 2WD tractors are getting cheaper all the time. Do not know about the TL70 but would not consider the 6810 that far under priced. Owner may have bought straight at a good price and want it moved on.

    Yes there are conmen and scammers but if tractor is Irish Reg you can use one of the car check sites ( I have used mywheels.ie to check) to confirm reg and some of the data on it. Make sure like buying a car you buy out of the yard and take down car reg etc.

    Yeah the 2wd market is much cheaper as most people are looking to trade up to 4wd. 8-10k is about right for a good sq ford. The 6810 is a more like the 6610 then the 7610. The 7610 is about 10 hp more powerful.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    yellow50HX wrote: »
    Yeah the 2wd market is much cheaper as most people are looking to trade up to 4wd. 8-10k is about right for a good sq ford. The 6810 is a more like the 6610 then the 7610. The 7610 is about 10 hp more powerful.


    As far as I know the 6610 and 7610 are virtually the same tractors except the 7610 is turbocharged. The 6410 is the same as the 6610 except the 64 has a second hydraulic pump in line and the 68 is a 76 with the stronger hydraulics.
    http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/4/9/5495-ford-6810.html
    http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/5/5953-ford-7610.html
    http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/4/9/5494-ford-6410.html
    http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/4/5949-ford-6610.html


    Look up the engines and you will see that they are the same bore etc Rated RPM are slightly different. The 68 would actually be capable of lifting two bales behind. It would also power a loader very easily and yould be ideal to lift big bag fertilizer but because it is 2WD I would not use it to bring in a bale from a field on a loader.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    I was referring to other 2wd tractors currently being advertised. 2wd have always been cheaper than 4wd. But when I see a 2wd 5k cheaper than any other 2wd of the same model currently being advertised then it sends signals to be aware!

    Tractor regs are very easily cloned.

    The NH is a Mayo reg being sold in Louth - a one owner tractor it says.

    It also has a Uk number on it.

    As I said, you have to be careful.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,161 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    reilig wrote: »
    The 2 tractors linked above are waaay under priced. I'd be wary of a scam or a bodged tractor with both. Just look at the prices of other similar models. The NH is about Eur 5k cheaper than anywhere else and the ford is about Eur 4k cheaper than others.

    Plenty of con men out there with scams, stolen tractors and bodged tractors so be careful!

    Yep, so make sure you know what you are at, do your checks, if something doesn't add up walk away. Buy from a dealer if not confident.

    Yeah that NH looks a cheap price. Maybe it's plus VAT ie €13,530. Pudsey spotted a NI phone no. earlier, but it looks like a 01.MO. reg no. and a 1 owner tractor advertised for sale in Co. Louth? There's a story to be told there for sure.

    I'm not recommending that OP buy that tractor, just making the point that something like that would suit his requirement.

    Having said that, genuine bargains do come up for sale from time to time as people just want rid for their own reasons. I have sold a few bargains myself over the years. Genuine bargains don't tend to hang around for long though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,161 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    Looks like Relig spotted the one owner Mayo tractor in Louth too and quicker typing than me!!:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    As far as I know the 6610 and 7610 are virtually the same tractors except the 7610 is turbocharged. The 6410 is the same as the 6610 except the 64 has a second hydraulic pump in line and the 68 is a 76 with the stronger hydraulics.
    http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/4/9/5495-ford-6810.html
    http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/5/5953-ford-7610.html
    http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/4/9/5494-ford-6410.html
    http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/4/5949-ford-6610.html


    Look up the engines and you will see that they are the same bore etc Rated RPM are slightly different. The 68 would actually be capable of lifting two bales behind. It would also power a loader very easily and yould be ideal to lift big bag fertilizer but because it is 2WD I would not use it to bring in a bale from a field on a loader.

    Yeah they are almost identical tractors but the 7610 is more powerful, different fuel pump. Who can fit a different fuel pump to up the power. Have had a 7610 for about 15 years and drove my neighbours 6810 plenty of times too you would notice the difference when the power is needed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks lads. Thing about the above tractor and the same applies to the case jxu 75 - they both almost look like miniature tractors nearly, front wheels look terribly small or maybe that's just me.


    Is it only me or is the case jxu 75 in 2wd very small looking - or does it look bigger in the flesh ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    I'm sorry for all the silly questions but here is another one.

    So if we take 2 tractors

    1. The Case JXU 75 > 2 wheel drive

    2. The Case JXU 75 > 4 wheel drive

    My question is, would both the above tractors have the same horsepower i.e. 75 HP

    Or would the 4 wheel drive version have more horsepower because of the 4 wheel drive setup ?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nashmach


    obi604 wrote: »
    I'm sorry for all the silly questions but here is another one.

    So if we take 2 tractors

    1. The Case JXU 75 > 2 wheel drive

    2. The Case JXU 75 > 4 wheel drive

    My question is, would both the above tractors have the same horsepower i.e. 75 HP

    Or would the 4 wheel drive version have more horsepower because of the 4 wheel drive setup ?

    Both would have the same power.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,242 ✭✭✭iverjohnston


    One great benefit of 4wd, not yet mentioned, is the much better braking performance on either field or road. For that reason alone I would recommend a 4wd.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,126 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Have seen a few 6 cyl 2wd tractors on DD recently which would be very stable with round bales, ford 7810 JD 3050 for around the same money as smaller tractors, doing 2-300 hrs per year they wouldn't cost much more to run


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    nashmach wrote: »
    Both would have the same power.


    Thanks for that.
    Another q, is 75 HP enough for a 4 wheel drive tractor ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,850 ✭✭✭9935452


    Have seen a few 6 cyl 2wd tractors on DD recently which would be very stable with round bales, ford 7810 JD 3050 for around the same money as smaller tractors, doing 2-300 hrs per year they wouldn't cost much more to run

    like this lady maybe , it needs a bit of a respray though
    http://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/tractor-for-sale/5535751


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,850 ✭✭✭9935452


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks for that.
    Another q, is 75 HP enough for a 4 wheel drive tractor ?

    should be yes, a MF390 non turbo is 75-80 hp


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    Have seen a few 6 cyl 2wd tractors on DD recently which would be very stable with round bales, ford 7810 JD 3050 for around the same money as smaller tractors, doing 2-300 hrs per year they wouldn't cost much more to run

    Would be slow enough going down this road. these tractors often have a lot of work done. They will be a lot heavier on diesel especially if you need to allow to sit idling for a while. They will also not be as manoverable as a 70-80HP tractor around the yard. You will be suprised how cost creeps up on you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,850 ✭✭✭9935452


    Would be slow enough going down this road. these tractors often have a lot of work done. They will be a lot heavier on diesel especially if you need to allow to sit idling for a while. They will also not be as manoverable as a 70-80HP tractor around the yard. You will be suprised how cost creeps up on you.

    The 3050 was 92 hp and i think the 7810 was 100hp so shouldnt be too bad on juice , the 1232 turbo would be 140hp and would burn more but they werent too bad on fuel . we had a 14145 and a 14245 both of which had 45gallon tanks and they would mow silage for a full day without running out, 60/70 acres of first cut with a 10 foot kuhn conditioner

    Also regarding power, better to be looking at it than for it. Stick the machine in the 1000rpm box for pto work and she would be ticking over


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks for that.
    Another q, is 75 HP enough for a 4 wheel drive tractor ?

    Yes but to be aware that some tractors are turbo driven so that they have smaller engines. A 390 is about 80HP but 390T is 95HP. Now both are the same tractor. I be inclined to go for a straight engine if you go for a Turbo charged engine I think you need to be aware that you need to give it a minute at start up and a minute at cool down.

    Little thinks like this can catch you. This is often why yoy can see two tractors that are 90HP and one is handier in size than the other. The turbo compensates for a smaller engine. Even adding an electric fule pump to tractors will add a couple HP to it as opposed to older manual lift pumps


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    9935452 wrote: »
    The 3050 was 92 hp and i think the 7810 was 100hp so shouldnt be too bad on juice , the 1232 turbo would be 140hp and would burn more but they werent too bad on fuel . we had a 14145 and a 14245 both of which had 45gallon tanks and they would mow silage for a full day without running out, 60/70 acres of first cut with a 10 foot kuhn conditioner


    But I dont think a tractor like this is needed. We wont be mowing 60/70 acres a day. Most strenuous work for this would be when the wrapped silage is done and will probably spend a day or 2 drawing in bales on a max run of a few hundred yards.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    As a matter of interest what tractor has he at present.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    As a matter of interest what tractor has he at present.

    A massey Ferguson 275, 2 wheel drive


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,850 ✭✭✭9935452


    obi604 wrote: »
    A massey Ferguson 275, 2 wheel drive

    is there anything wrong with it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,994 ✭✭✭obi604


    9935452 wrote: »
    is there anything wrong with it?


    yes, lift is going, clutch not great, dosent start on cold mornings so not great to be honest.

    was on about a rebuild but I dunno. and its over 20 years old


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,850 ✭✭✭9935452


    obi604 wrote: »
    yes, lift is going, clutch not great, dosent start on cold mornings so not great to be honest.

    was on about a rebuild but I dunno. and its over 20 years old

    If it is doing everything he needs it to do id personally go at a rebuilt. A grand would fix the lift, 7-800 for the clutch . 2.5k would do the engine from top to bottom. Worst case scenario a set of rings liners and get the head checked out should be round a 1000-1500.
    A friend of mine swears by geared/high speed starters which would help cold morning starting would be another possibility.

    if all that was done he would have a tractor that might last another 20 years. another problem he may have is if he trades it against another tractor he wont get massive money for it as the engine clutch and lift are knackered so it could be worth his while in resale value to do a few jobs to it


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