Volvo S40 1.6D jolt/chugging problem

roxybelle

buachailldana wrote: »

So I'm back to the garage for the 6th time at the moment... I'm almost pulling my hair out in frustration.

The car decided to go into Limp Home mode, "Reduced Engine Performance" warning message, last week. Took the car in again. The latest theory from the garage was that there was an issue with the glow plugs.

This seemed unlikely to me, considering I had no issue starting the car. Anyway they replaced the glow plugs, promised me all was fixed, and I went on my way. Only for the car to again go through a period of losing power/chugging on the dual carriageway.

They are adamant that these faults are not due to the DPF; I am adamant that it is ALL down to the DPF.

So we shall see. 6th time lucky, as the saying goes! Although I do love driving the car, and it came with so many extras, I'm at the end of my tether now!

I am also at the end of my tether with my 2008 Volvo S40 (180,000k). I have it over a year and started having power problems in August. The car had no response when I tried to accelerate. I couldn't get over 3000 revs. It made overtaking a nightmare and I would have to drop down to third gear even if I had been doing 50-60mph. My local mechanic replaced plugs on it and suggested that if I had any other power trouble that it may be the particulate filter. After another bout of losing power in September he took out the particulate filter. He had told me that it would have cost approx. €1000 to replace the filter and suggested that I just remove it as cars previous to 2011 didn't need them. This cost me €400. He advised me that the car needed to be driven on long distances at least once a week and I was doing this until recently. My drive to work is only about 10 minutes.
Everything was fine until about a week ago then again I had no power. The diesel was low in the car one morning and I took it straight to the garage which is about 1km from the house. The dash was reading 'Reduced Engine Performance' and I put it down to the lack of diesel even though I didn't think the diesel should have been that low. However, following refuelling it the power did not return and the warning remained on the dash. I was due a long spin in it and thought that might help the issue. It didn't. It's so bad now that the driveway slopes down to the house and every time I try to reverse out it conks out. It's a nightmare. I haven't got it seen to yet as I want to take it back to the mechanic who removed the dpf. I phoned him and he says it's because the diesel was low and I probably stirred dirt up into the diesel filter. Does this seem plausible?

bazz26

roxybelle wrote: »

I am also at the end of my tether with my 2008 Volvo S40 (180,000k). I have it over a year and started having power problems in August. The car had no response when I tried to accelerate. I couldn't get over 3000 revs. It made overtaking a nightmare and I would have to drop down to third gear even if I had been doing 50-60mph. My local mechanic replaced plugs on it and suggested that if I had any other power trouble that it may be the particulate filter. After another bout of losing power in September he took out the particulate filter. He had told me that it would have cost approx. €1000 to replace the filter and suggested that I just remove it as cars previous to 2011 didn't need them. This cost me €400. He advised me that the car needed to be driven on long distances at least once a week and I was doing this until recently. My drive to work is only about 10 minutes.
Everything was fine until about a week ago then again I had no power. The diesel was low in the car one morning and I took it straight to the garage which is about 1km from the house. The dash was reading 'Reduced Engine Performance' and I put it down to the lack of diesel even though I didn't think the diesel should have been that low. However, following refuelling it the power did not return and the warning remained on the dash. I was due a long spin in it and thought that might help the issue. It didn't. It's so bad now that the driveway slopes down to the house and every time I try to reverse out it conks out. It's a nightmare. I haven't got it seen to yet as I want to take it back to the mechanic who removed the dpf. I phoned him and he says it's because the diesel was low and I probably stirred dirt up into the diesel filter. Does this seem plausible?

You need to get the car's fault codes properly read and diagnosed. It sounds to me like the local mechanic is guessing what may be wrong.

tuxxaustin

I had the same issue. Mine is resolved by wiggling the bunch of cables behind the battery. The issue is down to the PCB in the braking system. Some are made by Bosche, which are fine. If its not Bosche, then the connections don't hold as well. A jiggle of the cable loom behind the battery sorts the low power problem for me. I am now getting an issue where if I accelerate away, the whole car just dies. Really frustrating, as I love the car, but just want to get rid of it now, but can't sell it on in this condition.

mullingar

If this is also the 1.6 D, I would strongly get all codes read.

I would also check the vacuum lines for the turbo control solenoid which lives on the rear of the engine. If this solenoid fails or has no vacuum line, the turbo will not spool up. A pressure gage T'eed into the turbo actuator arm vacuum supply will diagnose this I would also question the egr valve (codes will identify this). If egr is siezed open, it's sucking in too much recycled exhaust gas

To eliminate the dpf as the fault, just disconnect it and Rev it (1 hrs work) If it still doesn't Rev, it's not the dpf.

tuxxaustin

Thanks Mullingar, I'll check that tomorrow and report back.

Tombones

Got a 2012 s40 diesel rDesign, same problem.

When Im cruising at 100kmph in 6th gear and then put the foot to the floor she stutters forwards.

And so my journey begins......

run_Forrest_run

aaah feck, I was reading this thread with great interest thinking there must have been an update!

@buachailldana, it's been 4 years now, what was the outcome in the end?

road_high

Tombones wrote: »

Got a 2012 s40 diesel rDesign, same problem.

When Im cruising at 100kmph in 6th gear and then put the foot to the floor she stutters forwards.

And so my journey begins......

Jesus, you'd think Volvo and their PSA friends would have sorted this engine by 2012. The problems were well know before then. Put me off Volvo for life, shame as they were really lovely cars otherwise. I spent 1,000s on that thing.

Squeaksoutloud

Is it not a different engine from 2011..8v version without the issues of the old 1.6d which was 16v?

road_high

Squeaksoutloud wrote: »

Is it not a different engine from 2011..8v version without the issues of the old 1.6d which was 16v?

Not sure. But sounds like the same issues as the older ones gave

boraercana

hello, i have the same car, same issue, 2006 1.6 diesel engine, 


i bought it under warranty 2 months ago, engine used to make some jolt and clutching sometimes, but now it starts to stop after  long rides more than 20 minutes.  when i stop for lights or tolls, car stops..  and its really really hard to make it work again, it needs like 5 minutes of work, try to start and pumping accelerator..
the garage told me to use a cleaner for injectors and come back after 2000 km, i did its not yet 
1000km  but i think its not the case, it must be something else..

here is two video from tonight;

please put youtube on the links because system did not let me do so..

watch?v=nnKLQkcbQoA

watch?v=CyoCFWUBRs4

1.st one after i could start the car, you can hear, after car starts it feels like there is something in the throat and trying to get rid of it by coughing 

2nd one you can see how hard it starts, it was end of 5 minutes trying. 

any ideas? does the original post over solve the problem for his car? Please if anybody has an idea specially after videos i would glad to hear...

boraercana

please put youtube on the links because system did not let me do so..

vandriver

https://youtu.be/nnKLQkcbQoA

https://youtu.be/CyoCFWUBRs4

mullingar

First thing I would check is the live fuel pressure reading on a graph.

The fuel pressure should jump to 200bar within 2 secs of cranking and will ramp up and down depending on engine load/rpm. It will go up to 2000bar under max load.

If that checks clear, EGR needs to be removed/cleaned.

Failing that, you may have a faulty injector. Get the garage to do a leak-off test.

boraercana

mullingar wrote: »

First thing I would check is the live fuel pressure reading on a graph.

The fuel pressure should jump to 200bar within 2 secs of cranking and will ramp up and down depending on engine load/rpm. It will go up to 2000bar under max load.

If that checks clear, EGR needs to be removed/cleaned.

Failing that, you may have a faulty injector. Get the garage to do a leak-off test.

i take it to the garage with the videos, i think they will clean the EGR, we will see how it is going. 
This EGR is gets dirty so fast in 150.000 km? is that normal? (the car is itallian, i am in greece)

mullingar

Depending on the garage, some will probably just replace it. 150km would be average for a dirty EGR, some clog earlier, some later, its serviceable life depends on driving conditions/fuel/servicing/injectors/etc

boraercana

mullingar wrote: »

First thing I would check is the live fuel pressure reading on a graph.

The fuel pressure should jump to 200bar within 2 secs of cranking and will ramp up and down depending on engine load/rpm. It will go up to 2000bar under max load.

If that checks clear, EGR needs to be removed/cleaned.

Failing that, you may have a faulty injector. Get the garage to do a leak-off test.

i take the car to the service, they clean the EGR and put it back, and car didnt start at all after that.... technican told fuel didnt come up to the engine at all, 
now they detach the fuel tank, and we are waiting for a replacment of second fuel pump at the service.  i really dont understand what is wrong with that car at all.. 

ps: like a week ago i realize there is too much engine oil then it has to be in the car, and they found some oil in the fuel tank could it be the reason?

mullingar

boraercana wrote: »

i take the car to the service, they clean the EGR and put it back, and car didnt start at all after that.... technican told fuel didnt come up to the engine at all, 
now they detach the fuel tank, and we are waiting for a replacment of second fuel pump at the service.  i really dont understand what is wrong with that car at all.. 

ps: like a week ago i realize there is too much engine oil then it has to be in the car, and they found some oil in the fuel tank could it be the reason?

Removing the tank? FFS. there is NO secondary fuel pump in the tank for that engine, the main primary pump does all the work.

The EGR and fuel systems are completely different. But to gain full access to the EGR you would need to move the fuel filter out of the way. I'd say they disconnected the filter which allowed the fuel in the pipe to fall back to the tank by gravity. And without a built-in priming bulb the only way to prime the system is with a separate in-line pump.

Simple live pressure data would have diagnosed if your fault was fuel related or not.

I think its time to find a new mechanic.

( And no, there is no way for oil to get into the diesel system as its pressurised )

clfy39tzve8njq

mullingar wrote:

I'd say they disconnected the filter which allowed the fuel in the pipe to fall back to the tank by gravity. And without a built-in priming bulb the only way to prime the system is with a separate in-line pump.

A non return valve fitted on the pipe should prevent the the fuel falling back to the tank

boraercana

so, today they change the fuel pump they change the fuel filter they clean up the injectors clean up the EGR and all the pipes that comes and goes to the tank, they clean out the tank, and give me back the car, and they charge me with 280 euro because its not related with engine and gear box, and the warranty covers only them they say.. 
so i was driving at night for 20 minutes about 140 150 kmph and when i slow down then issue happen again..... the car hesitate for some seconds when i try to accelerate several times... i wish i could give this car back... i feel its nearly impossible to find out what is wrong with this car and this will never goes out whatever i change.. i am so sad.

mullingar

If it's still wrong, bring it back to them.

I would not be happy being charged anything if it was under warranty, but still, €280 is very cheap to remove/clean the tank and to also replace the expensive pump.

boraercana

like the original owner of this post, again and again i take the car to service this morning, they told me come after january 4 and they will clean the tank again with chemicals, which i believe nothing to do with it. 

then i use advice of "find a new mechanic" and take the car  to a unauthorized but a good volvo service around Athens to just to dedect what can be wrong with the car and to read the codes, and this codes come up. the engineer told some of them might because of a dead battery, but some of them might be my real problem, he delete them all and told me to come back when it happens again so we can detect what it is.  

so here are the foult codes. i had a Mileage Manipulated code which brings me the question that millage might be manupulated, its really hard to find a normal operating car here in Athens. the roads look like the trash the junkyard of the Europe.  and everyone seems to lie a lot here.. i advise no one to buy car from Greece any time !


DIM-0001 Mileage Manipulated  -  DTC is found not active. *does that means cars millage manipulated? 
ECM-1507 Turbo control - Too low pressure  - DTC is found not active.
ECM-2A4O Particulate trap - Signal too high  - DTC is found not active
ECM-ZASO Particulate trap - Faulty signal - OTC is found not active.
ECM-3000 Camshaft position (CMP) sensor - Faulty signal  - DTC is found not active.
ECM-3100 RPM sensor - Faulty signal - DTC is found active *thats the only one that is active 
ECM-3110 RPM sensor - Faulty signal  - DTC is found not active.
ECM-7600 Immobilizer - Signal missing -  DTC is found not active.
ECM-94OF Brake pedal sensor - Qualifier unknown - DTC is found not active.
ECM-Aeoo Additive dosing module'(ADM) - Faulty signal  - DTC is found not active.
EPS-OO8O Steering angle sensor Faulty signal - DTC is found not active.
EPS-0081 Vehicle speed Faulty signal - DTC is found not active.
IAM No fault found.
ICM No fault found.
PDM No fault found.

mullingar

The only way to check the true mileage is to get the engine ECU read with a Volvo diagnostics system. It might be nothing or a lot. Check the service history very carefully to see if the dates roughly match the recorded mileage. Is there a car history check available in Greece?

The rpm sensor would also be called the crankshaft sensor.

boraercana

mullingar wrote: »

The only way to check the true mileage is to get the engine ECU read with a Volvo diagnostics system. It might be nothing or a lot. Check the service history very carefully to see if the dates roughly match the recorded mileage.  Is there a car history check available in Greece?

The rpm sensor would also be called the crankshaft sensor.

Not at all, nothing exist here to check cars, the cars are mostly imported from Italy or Bulgaria, no one knows about their past. sellers are mostly like cheaters, this company supposed to be biggest company in Athens,  and they looked reliable and because of the warranty i give 6000 euro to a car that i even don't understand warnings (because they are in Italian.) with a probably fake millage, with a problem that is impossible to detect. 


he told me when i ask about "give the car back"; "we will speak" after one more attempt to fix. which i believe its truly not possible to fix that error at all. 



does anyone knows what happend to the original post owners car? i can not find if he got a solution or not.

Tombones

It was the accelerator pedal sensor that caused similar issues for me.

Got it replaced

biko

Thanks, but old thread lock.