W124 overview

Capri

W124 feature in AutoKlassik - I used Google translate on some of it

ONE THING - the road tax is only €368 on the 500E - THAT'S the difference in owning a youngtimer in Germany, their tax is reasonable , our lot are so greedy they get ZERO :P

http://www.autobild.de/klassik/artikel/mercedes-w-124-vergleichstest-4306251.html


Mercedes W 124 Comparison Test- 11/10/2013

The top one hundred

Mercedes 200, 300, 400, 500 No combined Mercedes engines and bodies as diverse as the 124 series We compare versions in smooth increments, from 200 E to 500 E

I n high society class is not a question of money, but the origin. Why else the buyer would accept that there 300 E and 200 carbureted engine was no visible (object-) differences between his Mercedes? And despite the 12,000 mark price difference! Even Alus cost the six-cylinder separately. From the simplest to the naturally aspirated 500 E was refined: Mercedes , Mercedes. This unspoken message lived on the delightful cool sort of "Medium Series" 124 until the end. With the presented in December 1984 successor to the W 123 , Daimler-Benz AG, the middle class began late Monument just before this foundation of the automotive industry began to be resilient. For when the first E-Class matured 124er mid-1997 ceded, eroded the bourgeois center - no wonder that many of their representatives clung to the end of their star cars, stainless jacking and crumbs as the motor harnesses notwithstanding.
It was below the level of 124, by equipping themselves to rig lines from the marketing retort. Only when measured dynamic Sportline he met the late 80s playing with the vanity. Mix were the customers themselves: between two and five liters everything was inside. Of 15 engines, four body variants and the endless options list a Benz for every situation could combine. On the W 124 sedan was followed in September 1985, the practical T-Model S 124, C 124 Coupe in the spring of 1987 brought bittersweet Chic in the model program. As a last category came in 1992 added the Cabriolet A 124. The first four-seater since the W 111 and the first with four-valve technology. The 124 as a technology of high society, this role he also played with panache and persuasiveness. Who bought a 124er as diesel, acted out of conviction or for economic reasons. The coupé and convertible, there was never the oil burner, the glitterati came only with four-and six-cylinder petrol engines. Of all the fine Cabriolet is in our comparison as E 200 with Basic performance at the start. The two-door 300 CE carries befitting and conservative six-cylinder engine, the Model T of the 300 E-24 in his circles an exotic four-valve engine. Two sedans with V8 engine complete the circle of the top hundred: a powerful silent e 400 and his dominant brother, the monumental 500 E. However, the form and power are not everything. The work of art must be convincing.
That of all the 500 E comparison of the top one hundred wins, seems a little surprising. He is motorized terrific, of superior workmanship and still dominates everyday life, is deep in his heart so a W 124 remained. Porsche genes and rarity secure him the highest collector status. However, the rest of the family is not as pale as it suggests the point spacing. The runner-up 300 TE-24 brings versatility and spaciousness into play. The successful Sport Line equipment and the high-revving sports engine make it the 500 E for smaller budget. And the voices motorized, brilliant performers camouflaged 400 E therefore ends up only slightly behind the T-model because of the combination is more practical. The coupe, however, shines with style and aura. It is the most classic Mercedes in comparison. By 300 CE would like to ride in a fine shirt and good pants at the Wörthersee, but enjoy the sunshine in the E 200 Cabriolet there. The little engine hardly detracts from its appeal: Where else will you find a open four-seater of such high quality and style? Today it is as before. If you drive a Mercedes 124, one of the winners. The comparison shows that satisfaction is not defined by displacement.

400E http://www.autobild.de/klassik/artikel/mercedes-400-e-4310553.html

500E http://www.autobild.de/klassik/artikel/mercedes-500-e-4333141.html

Do-more

Road tax is €305 a year here in Sweden and according to this ad for a nice late model 500 E for sale asking approx. €7,900, the insurance (Classic I'd guess) is only €183 a year.

Now where was that ad for converting it to run on water? :cool:

Or a 400 E asking €1600 but they do warn of rust....





.

carlosfandango

Here's my old one for sale (W124 e220)

http://cars.donedeal.ie/vintagecars-for-sale/mercedes-w124-e220/5819929

One of the best cars I've ever owned & one of the best in the country. It's just nuts how cheap they are..

CFD

Capri

Do-more wrote: »

Road tax is €305 a year here in Sweden and according to this ad for a nice late model 500 E for sale asking approx. €7,900, the insurance (Classic I'd guess) is only €183 a year.

Now where was that ad for converting it to run on water? :cool:

Or a 400 E asking €1600 but they do warn of rust....





.

WHY did they block the reg no on the 400E and then give it anyway in the ad PYP 204

I'd take my chances with the rust on the 400E for €1600 , the 500E of course was a totally different kettle of fish - but around town a V8 sounds the same no matter how much/little you pay for it !

w124man

carlosfandango wrote: »

http://cars.donedeal.ie/vintagecars-for-sale/mercedes-w124-e220/5819929

.... one of the best in the country.

CFD

LOL ..... dream on! One of mine has 100,000 miles less than that one and it isnt an import!

Basil Fawlty

Was your W124 made in Ireland then?

w124man

Basil Fawlty wrote: »

Was your W124 made in Ireland then?

Wit isn't your strongest attribute then!

Capri

w124man wrote: »

LOL ..... dream on! One of mine has 100,000 miles less than that one and it isnt an import!

'Import' being a 220 (never offered here ? ) from UK /SA / India ?

w124man

Capri wrote: »

'Import' being a 220 (never offered here ? ) from UK /SA / India ?

No as in a UK sourced car! The E220 was available here

Do-more

Capri wrote: »

WHY did they block the reg no on the 400E and then give it anyway in the ad PYP 204

I'd take my chances with the rust on the 400E for €1600 , the 500E of course was a totally different kettle of fish - but around town a V8 sounds the same no matter how much/little you pay for it !

Any idea how parts prices compare between the 400 & 500E? General consumables like brake pads & discs etc. stuff that's going to have an impact on general running costs.

I've moved house and no longer have a school run to do, so my annual mileage will now probably be less than 10,000 kms so whilst the petrol consumption of the 400E would probably be twice that of my current 2 litre petrol Passat in money terms it would be in the order of €1500 a year extra. If the increase in other running costs wasn't outrageous then it could be do-able.

w124man

Do-more wrote: »

I've moved house and no longer have a school run to do, so my annual mileage will now probably be less than 10,000 kms so whilst the petrol consumption of the 400E would probably be twice that of my current 2 litre petrol Passat in money terms it would be in the order of €1500 a year extra. If the increase in other running costs wasn't outrageous then it could be do-able.

€1500 extra = grin factor

Seweryn

Do-more wrote: »

the petrol consumption of the 400E would probably be twice that of my current 2 litre petrol Passat.

I can't see how a 400E would need twice the amount of fuel of your Passat. 25 to 50% extra, maybe.

Do-more

Seweryn wrote: »

I can't see how a 400E would need twice the amount of fuel of your Passat. 25 to 50% extra, maybe.

Yep, looking at the "official" combined fuel consumption figures, my Passat is 8.4L/100km and the 400 E is given as 11.8L/100km.

8.4 is probably close enough to what I actually get so the difference is probably more like +50% or around €750 a year.

Surprised that the tyre size on the 400 E isn't bigger, seems to run on 215/55R16 as standard Vs. 205/55R16 on the Passat.

I'm in real danger of convincing myself that this is a good idea here!

If it was a bit closer to home my fate would be sealed but it's 460kms away, about 5 hours drive give or take.

w124man

Do-more wrote: »

I'm in real danger of convincing myself that this is a good idea here! .

This is good news isn't it??

Capri

Do-more wrote: »

Yep, looking at the "official" combined fuel consumption figures, my Passat is 8.4L/100km and the 400 E is given as 11.8L/100km.

8.4 is probably close enough to what I actually get so the difference is probably more like +50% or around €750 a year.

Surprised that the tyre size on the 400 E isn't bigger, seems to run on 215/55R16 as standard Vs. 205/55R16 on the Passat.

I'm in real danger of convincing myself that this is a good idea here!

If it was a bit closer to home my fate would be sealed but it's 460kms away, about 5 hours drive give or take.

The only big problem I found with my E430 was changing the 2 plugs/cyl (16 :eek: ) but maybe the 400E is easier. For the price the 400E still has all the right sounds for SEK ???? less, and most of the parts would be more available (from UK or Germany ?? ). The grin factor is a biggie as well, now that you have the house sorted. If I was over there I'd be halfway back from there already with it.

w124man

Some 400E's .....

http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/mercedes-benz-400-e-29250km-ladenburg/173106419.html?lang=en&pageNumber=1&__lp=2&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=17200&makeModelVariant1.modelId=140&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&damageUnrepaired=ALSO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&export=ALSO_EXPORT

http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/mercedes-benz-400-bm-124-e-klasse-lim-400-e-e-420-eutin/181377517.html?lang=en&pageNumber=1&__lp=2&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=17200&makeModelVariant1.modelId=140&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&damageUnrepaired=ALSO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&export=ALSO_EXPORT

Do-more

It's quite a temptation alright but the only practical thing for me would be to buy it sight unseen and get it delivered down.

Bit of a risk and leap of faith to send money in the hope it will be loaded onto a transporter and sent to you. I know a few cops locally but I don't know how it works here whether they would get me the registered owners details or not.

From the photos there seems to be rust showing at the bumper line on the rear quarter panels, from anyone experienced with W124s what does that tell you?

At that sort of money once I'd get a year or two out of it without spending a bucket more money I'd be quids in but I don't particularly want to run it into the ground either it would be nice to have for a little longer term.

w124man

Rust around the rear arches and back is a lot more serious than the front Im afraid. Rear arch rust means welding.

Do-more

w124man wrote: »

Rust around the rear arches and back is a lot more serious than the front Im afraid. Rear arch rust means welding.

Thanks for that.

I took a look at the buyers guide on Honest John and even though they don't have model specific info for the 400 E the list of potential problems was long enough to put me off the idea of buying it sight unseen.

Your info confirms that. Its cheap for a reason and I don't have the facilities or ability to work on it myself.

I prefer the W124 coupe shape in any case so will keep an eye out for one closer to home. I'll just miss out on the V8 rumble.

w124man

http://classics.honestjohn.co.uk/top-10s/top-10-searched-for-classic-cars-in-june-2013/?image=0

Capri

I suppose I've a colored opinion of them seeing as I have an E430, and I know that I've replaced a lot/done a lot of miles - LH engine mount and a/c rad /pipes was the biggest job (apart from a broken plug that required the engine out - but that was my fault for trying to skimp on a job that even the MB mechs say they can cock up - at their own expense if i'd left it in to them )
If I bought that 400E I'd get the engine/trans oil done by MB, get a local to fix the rust, and just enjoy it once it's passed the inspection. Maybe you should buy a RHD Merc down here and bring it up there where the tax is cheap and the nights are ... :rolleyes:

w124man wrote: »

http://classics.honestjohn.co.uk/top-10s/top-10-searched-for-classic-cars-in-june-2013/?image=0

Considered by many aficionados as the final 'hewn-from-granite' Mercedes-Benzes, the W124 is a satisfying ownership proposition. There aren't many weaknesses – the engines go on forever, but rust nibbles away at the edges, and many people are finding profit in breaking rather than repair.

•Dashboard fires can be caused as follows: fault is due to a un-fused connection to the boot courtesy light. The power cable runs in a curved tube alongside the boot hinge on the drivers side and after a period of time (opening and closing the boot lid) this cable shorts to earth, which results in the power lead heating up and the resulting fire is started at its un-fused connection to the fuse board in front of the driver and to the right of steering wheel.
•Reports of cylinder head stretch bolts failing on later four-cylinder engines (200, 220) with replacement a 'head-off' job. Oil leaks from cylinder heads of four cylinder engines a sign of the stretch bolt problem.
•Check behind front screen rubber for severe corrosion in the screen frame.
•Common W124 Estate problems by W124 expert Nicholas Froome
•worn backrest edge on driver's seat (almost every car now)
•rusty front wings just ahead of the wheel arch, just above the bumper (almost every car now)
•front windows u/s because top three teeth of the regulator quadrant
are worn out
•worn engine mounts (particularly on E300 Multivalve Diesels due, I suspect, to the weight of the engine)
•worn front ARB bushes (I do these as standard on every car)
•Just under the rear windows above the load area caused by water ingress (leaks & capillary action) from the windows. Symptom is misted-up rear windows after starting
•chipped windscreens
•poor alignment, pulling to the left, and/or worn tyres
•failed front headlamp wiper motors due to water, crud buildup, bad positioning, etc
•oil all over alternator due to front timing cover leak on multivalve six-cylinder petrol engines
•leaky diffs (they all do that, mate)
•worn leading rear subframe bushes (kit, £72, Mercedes) - cause clonks over bumps & drain covers
•water pumps - almost every six-cylinder petrol car has had one by 170k
•blackened rear sidelight bulbs - I replace these as standard. Early cars are 5 Watt, later 10 Watt, prime
•cause of bulb failure warnings is wrong bulbs
•air leaks into fuel system on E300 Multivalve Diesels, car won't start. If you disturb the fuel lines they will then leak - the O-rings flatten over time. O-rings 80p each at dealer
•worn front balljoints (£13 / each, Mercedes) mainly on older cars but it's an age-related fault as well and EVERY car over 170k / 12 years should have them done IMHO
•failed a/c - compressor won't engage due to lost gas, due to broken condensor or other leak. Possibly electrical as well

Not that common:
•worn heater fan brushes leading to intermittent or no fan operation - mainly on older cars. Parts not available but electrical shops supply brushes than can be filed to fit
•melted fuse holder on the heater fan fuse caused by heat generated as the fuse/holder contact goes high-resistance due to corrosion. Scotchbrite pads clean this up well
•oil (just a little or lots) in radiator header tank due to CHG breakdown mainly on multivalve six-cylinder petrol cars. Slight leak is common and not terminal
•flaring autos on E300 Multivalve Diesels
•harsh / flaring / phantom shifts on cars with patchy history (walk away)
•droning rear wheel bearings (at high mileages) and rear bearing an utter trouble to remove
•worn front prop doughnuts #
•worn diff mounts (at higher mileages)
•disintegrating engine bay loom mainly on six-cylinder petrol cars after about 1993. A repair section is available from MB for the HT wiring
•failed ECUs due to above
•bad coil packs
•failed speedo & new unit recorded in service log
•failed rear number plate bulbs bring up bulb failure warning
•broken wires in front door jambs lead to intermittent electric windows (mainly on very old cars)
•broken wires in tailgate opening lead to intermittent rear wiper, number plate lights, etc (mainly on very old cars)
•failing ignition switch barrel. Replacements are available in 3 days from Germany for about £65 keyed to the car. MB dealers carry a cheaper generic version with a different key
•one door central locking fails or fails to lock other doors. Actuator is the cause
•Multivalve diesels lose compression over time and feel very flat. Cylinders 5 and 6 most commonly have valve seat recession and/or bad valves. Rebuild works wonders!
•broken front springs
•worn steering idler
•blocked / leaking radiators
•failed viscous fan coupling
•random intermittent wipers caused by failing indicator multifunction switch

Do-more

Yep that was the list of potential problems that kinda put me off! :eek:

w124man

Rarely would you come across more than half a dozen of those unless you buy a diesel or petrol 6 cylinder. Anyway its a very small list of worst case scenarios spread over a large model range, most of which you will find on any car ....

Why would you put 'chipped windscreen' and 'cause of bulb failure warnings is wrong bulbs' on a list like that?

Seweryn

Do-more wrote: »

Yep that was the list of potential problems that kinda put me off! :eek:

In fairness you can list the same amount of potential problems for any other car. The only difference is that some of these problems will never appear in other cars, as they never reach the mileage that a W124 can do while carrying all the issues through.
The beauty of this car is that unlike any modern car, a W124 will keep going and going telling you "you can still drive today, just fix it some other time".

Capri

Seweryn wrote: »

In fairness you can list the same amount of potential problems for any other car. The only difference is that some of these problems will never appear in other cars, as they never reach the mileage that a W124 can do while carrying all the issues through.
The beauty of this car is that unlike any modern car, a W124 will keep going and going telling you "you can still drive today, just fix it some other time".

My E430 is basically limping along but it's still going - need a good few bob spent

lomb

The problem with all these old yokes is that something broken is depressing as it shows you havent the energy to maintain it. Ive seen classics painted with domestic paint rollers where rust bubbles through at meets. Ive driven an 85 500sl that could only be described as rubbish. What goes on in the owners head with a war between rust and mechanical issues versus constantly thinking whats this going to cost and can I get away with it would drive anyone insane. The engineering wasnt the best back then either regardless of what pundits say. Norms today like galvanizing , rubber that lasts longer , fuel economy, minor engineering details we take for granted today.

The w124 is a very comfy, classic looking machine but it needs care and money spent on it. I believe parts arent cheap either, some vacuum thing my neighbour wanted me to track down was 1k from dealers. His 300d was a fine bus though especially considering the fact it is 20 years old now.

Seweryn

lomb wrote: »

The w124 is a very comfy, classic looking machine but it needs care and money spent on it. I believe parts arent cheap either, some vacuum thing my neighbour wanted me to track down was 1k from dealers.

Another beauty of a W124 - you can spend fortune at dealers or get the parts second hand for peanuts and enjoy cheap motoring.

hi5

I got a new generic radiator for a 300d w124 from Mr auto recently, cost €90 delivered, seemed to work fine.

w124man

Seweryn wrote: »

Another beauty of a W124 - you can spend fortune at dealers or get the parts second hand for peanuts and enjoy cheap motoring.

Contrary to popular belief, Mercedes do not charge the earth for W124 parts. I can get almost all service/wear items cheaper from MB than the likes of Otto or GSF. There are some parts with silly prices but if you shop around you'll be ok

Seweryn

w124man wrote: »

Contrary to popular belief, Mercedes do not charge the earth for W124 parts. I can get almost all service/wear items cheaper from MB than the likes of Otto or GSF. There are some parts with silly prices but if you shop around you'll be ok

Agree. Only some parts are crazy, like interior bits with long warehouse life. Self levelling rear suspension elements are also expensive. But consumables are cheaper than for any French, Japanese or many other German cars.

w124man

Seweryn wrote: »

Agree. Only some parts are crazy, like interior bits with long warehouse life. Self levelling rear suspension elements are also expensive. But consumables are cheaper than for any French, Japanese or many other German cars.

I haven't been down the self levelling road just yet but I know a few places that will make the pipes for very little money and the spheres can be had from the UK.

Capri

w124man wrote: »

I haven't been down the self levelling road just yet but I know a few places that will make the pipes for very little money and the spheres can be had from the UK.

My W220 'S' had issues like sitting on it's stops after lying for a week , but I got a valve renewed and it seemed a bit better, but I'd still prefer ordinary springs/shox.

Seweryn

w124man wrote: »

I haven't been down the self levelling road just yet but I know a few places that will make the pipes for very little money and the spheres can be had from the UK.

I had to repair the self levelling systems in three of my estates that I had in the past. I would go the second hand route or alternatively there are companies in other European countries that specialise in refurbishing the spheres and the hydraulic lifters.
The spheres do go more often than other bits at the rear axle, occasionally the bottom joints of the hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic pipes may need replacing due tu rust.

w124man

W124's ...... I just love em!

Seweryn

Capri wrote: »

My W220 'S' had issues like sitting on it's stops after lying for a week , but I got a valve renewed and it seemed a bit better, but I'd still prefer ordinary springs/shox.

The W220 has a different suspension system to the W124 / W201 / W140. It is pneumatic rather that hydraulic and more prone to leaks, which cause problems like in your car.

Do-more

Came across this 1993 W124 420 E last night.



Only about an hour and a half away from me. Only the one photo and not a lot of detail in the ad but claims that the only rust is on the boot lid.

Was a personal import at 4 years old, probably from Germany.

Twice the price of the last one, asking approx. €3,100 which I don't have in the kitty at the moment, especially with the Passat in the garage for a big service this week.

RWD, auto box and lots of power is not a great combination for winter driving either.

Will keep an eye on it for price drops, but the sensible thing is probably to run the Passat for the winter and look again in the spring time. Oh to be sensible!

w124man

Do-more wrote: »

Came across this 1993 W124 420 E last night.



Only about an hour and a half away from me. Only the one photo and not a lot of detail in the ad but claims that the only rust is on the boot lid.

Was a personal import at 4 years old, probably from Germany.

Twice the price of the last one, asking approx. €3,100 which I don't have in the kitty at the moment, especially with the Passat in the garage for a big service this week.

RWD, auto box and lots of power is not a great combination for winter driving either.

Will keep an eye on it for price drops, but the sensible thing is probably to run the Passat for the winter and look again in the spring time. Oh to be sensible!

I would go and have a look at it if I were you. I can tell you all the places to look for body issues if you like. A W124 on good winter tyres is quite capable - better than you'd think!

Seweryn

Do-more wrote: »

Came across this 1993 W124 420 E last night.

RWD, auto box and lots of power is not a great combination for winter driving either.

Automatic is actually better in the snow. You only need the tyres (and learn how to drive, if you have never tried in the proper winter ).
Go and check it out.

Anan1

To be fair, my 320E was a handful on greasy roads in summer.

Do-more

Seweryn wrote: »

Automatic is actually better in the snow. You only need the tyres (and learn how to drive, if you have never tried in the proper winter ).
Go and check it out.

We don't usually get vast amounts of snow here in the south but a longer and colder winter than in Ireland, further north a lot use studded snow tyres for the grip on ice and hard packed snow. But as studs are not permitted in Denmark most in this area use friction snow tyres.

Here they don't remove all the snow from the road surface they plough the fresh stuff and a hard crust of snow builds up on the road surface.

Snow tyres are a legal requirement for driving here in poor conditions between the months of November and March.

Do-more

w124man wrote: »

I can tell you all the places to look for body issues if you like.

That would be much appreciated and I'm sure very helpful for anyone who comes across this thread in the future.

I have a neighbour who runs an '87 200E manual as a daily driver, I must ask him for his opinion of it's winter driving performance. (And take a look at where it is rusted, it's about ready to fall apart one of these days!)

Tzar Chasm

Do-more wrote: »

Came across this 1993 W124 420 E last night.



Only about an hour and a half away from me. Only the one photo and not a lot of detail in the ad but claims that the only rust is on the boot lid.

Was a personal import at 4 years old, probably from Germany.

Twice the price of the last one, asking approx. €3,100 which I don't have in the kitty at the moment, especially with the Passat in the garage for a big service this week.

RWD, auto box and lots of power is not a great combination for winter driving either.

Will keep an eye on it for price drops, but the sensible thing is probably to run the Passat for the winter and look again in the spring time. Oh to be sensible!

SENSIBLE!!!!

I've heard that word somewhere before, but tis a mystery to me:D

seriously like, yer talking to a bunch of lads with a mad Grà for hardship, sensible dosent really come into the equation when you drive classics.

w124man

Do-more wrote: »

That would be much appreciated and I'm sure very helpful for anyone who comes across this thread in the future.

I have a neighbour who runs an '87 200E manual as a daily driver, I must ask him for his opinion of it's winter driving performance. (And take a look at where it is rusted, it's about ready to fall apart one of these days!)

That car has the later plastic trim along the bottom of the car. These are known as 'Sacco Boards' after the designer Bruno Sacco. These boards do not cause any rust issues but the sills are enclosed with similar plastic shrouds and as a result the hidden jacking points suffer and this is the first place to look.

1. Check all four jacking points

A common spot on most cars, of course, are the wheel arches and the W124 is no exception. The rear arches can go and are going to involve a stay in a body shop to sort it properly. The front arches are easy as the wings unbolt making replacement easy. Genuine wings are not cheap but there are good reproduction one available but beware some are pure sh17e. You can spot a bad replacement wing buy checking the fitment by the looking at the wing top by the A post. It should be a good even fit and match the other side

2. Check around rear arches, along the top of the rear bumper where it meets the wing. The front wings rust in front of the arch and under the indicator

Not so common though, is the rust that can appear on the inner arch and can be seen under the bonnet beside the ABS unit. Its where a threaded stud is welded to the inner arch to hold the liner in place. Its a pain in the arse cuz a lot of stuff needs to be moved to do a proper job. While under the bonnet check out the slam panel as sometimes they rust and also check the plemium chamber areas where the battery and servo units are.

Whilst still crawling around on your hands and knees it will be a good idea to check the condition of the underseal on the underside of the car. Around the boot floor area and sill joints are areas where the goo can start to crack and let water seep in. UK cars are particularly poor in this respect. For the next bit you will have to remove the rear wheels cuz you are going to be looking at the front two mounts for the rear subframe. I have seen cars where these mounts have come away from the body as they have rusted through.

3. Check the condition of the rear subframe mounting points and the condition of the underseal.

All W124's with a sunroof need to be checked around the channels for the signs of rotten seals and rust. It is vital to check the two drain channels running down the A post. These get full of sh17e and flood the interior. Whilst up there check the trim around the screen and rear window as rust can form here too as well as the trim on the roof itself.
Finally, the boot lid can also rust around the chrome bit and you might get a bit of rust around the aerial.

Obviously if the car has had a bang during its life the damaged area might suffer a bit extra and you need to look out for signs of that.

Early Estates used to rust under the rear seats from underneath and its hard to see but this stopped around 1988

Hope this helps

Do-more

lol

I was taking a look at 420E prices in Germany last night and one seller has kindly provided pictures of rust in almost all the areas you have described!

Do-more

and...

hi5

At least over there they show you the rust. Here they show you everything but the rust, then make you drive 100 miles before you see it!:mad:

Capri

hi5 wrote: »

At least over there they show you the rust. Here they show you everything but the rust, then make you drive 100 miles before you see it!:mad:

I won't even begin with the rust on my E430 but my 430 had ESP and during our real bad winter of 2011 I was actually passing Jeeps on the motorway ( on nearly bald tyres - as I found AFTER the snow had thawed :eek: )

A good set of snow tyres on spare rims ( and bolts ) and you'll be sorted. That E400/420 has your name on it - you won't regret it :rolleyes:

w124man

Do-more wrote: »

lol

I was taking a look at 420E prices in Germany last night and one seller has kindly provided pictures of rust in almost all the areas you have described!

I do my best !!

Those rust spots on the door and in the middle of othe panels is cuased by the water based paints introduced by MB around that time. This paint carried over to the W210 and the cars simply rusted away.

Capri

w124man wrote: »

I do my best !!

Those rust spots on the door and in the middle of othe panels is cuased by the water based paints introduced by MB around that time. This paint carried over to the W210 and the cars simply rusted away.

W124 Rust feature ( in German - pics in English )

http://www.motor-klassik.de/restaurierung/die-schwachstellen-des-mercedes-w-124-rostroter-bereich-6469048.html

benzboat

Hey guys,

I don't want to hijack this thread, but I'm looking for a reliable and affordable Benz service shop around Dublin, where they know their way around a W124.

Any advice?

w124man

Capri wrote: »

W124 Rust feature ( in German - pics in English )

http://www.motor-klassik.de/restaurierung/die-schwachstellen-des-mercedes-w-124-rostroter-bereich-6469048.html

Looks as though that yoke was dumped in the sea!