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New Bike for 2014

  • 01-10-2013 11:45am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭


    Hey!

    Looking at new, more aero bikes for next season. My road bike has faired med well but it lacks the competitive edge..money is somewhat of an issue..i've been looking at the Felt B16 (good price point) and the Felt AR5 (bit more expensive but maybe more of an all rounder with the aero benefits)

    Wheelset will come the year after most likely.

    Anybody got any info on either?


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,435 ✭✭✭joey100


    I had a felt B16 and it was ok. Not great but a step up from the road bike. In the end I sold it and upgraded. Was looking at upgrading the wheels and base bar and when I factored in the money I would get from selling it combined with what it would cost to upgrade I was better off selling it. It was advertised as an Ultegra build, it wasn't. It had a FSA crank, microshift levers and Ultegra derailleurs.

    What sort of budget have you in mind? Can be some good second hand deals at the moment with people selling their bikes for next season.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 546 ✭✭✭gerfmurphy


    I'm in the same situation.
    I really like my road bike I have good aero bars, I am thinking of trying a ff seat post and Tri adamo saddle with a new set of wheels, but then again maybe I would be better moving to a tt bike.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭shansey


    joey100 wrote: »
    I had a felt B16 and it was ok. Not great but a step up from the road bike. In the end I sold it and upgraded. Was looking at upgrading the wheels and base bar and when I factored in the money I would get from selling it combined with what it would cost to upgrade I was better off selling it. It was advertised as an Ultegra build, it wasn't. It had a FSA crank, microshift levers and Ultegra derailleurs.

    What sort of budget have you in mind? Can be some good second hand deals at the moment with people selling their bikes for next season.


    I suppose 2000 was the budget, i was hoping to avail of the bike to work scheme to get some cash off so any second hand purchases would have to be real bargains.

    What did you upgrade to?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,435 ✭✭✭joey100


    Upgraded a good bit, came into a bit of money so upgraded to an Argon 18 E118. Big change from the felt. Know of one other person in my club who also sold on his Felt B16, again when he looked at the cost of upgrading he decided to sell it on. Not sure of other bikes within that price range, planet X exocet 2 is the only one that springs to mind but not sure on how it is.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭shansey


    joey100 wrote: »
    Upgraded a good bit, came into a bit of money so upgraded to an Argon 18 E118. Big change from the felt. Know of one other person in my club who also sold on his Felt B16, again when he looked at the cost of upgrading he decided to sell it on. Not sure of other bikes within that price range, planet X exocet 2 is the only one that springs to mind but not sure on how it is.

    Ha ha... Wish I could come into some bike money!!

    I want something that's going to be an improvement on what I have. My road bike ain't great but it's as good as say a felt f85... If I'm gonna spend I want to get as much improvent as I can.. No point in spending 2k on something marginally better than what I have..

    Thinkin the AR5 with some tt bars might be the trick


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    i dont know the exact numbers but if i were to guess a tt bike will save you anywhere between 2-4 mins over 40km


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,435 ✭✭✭joey100


    The usual advice to people would be to keep your road bike and buy a TT bike for racing on. But that depends on how serious you want to take racing I suppose. Cycling clubs will not let you out on group spins on a TT bike, so something to keep in mind if your thinking of selling your road bike. One lad in our club has an AR4 with clip on bars (I think, not sure of model but definitely an AR model) and to be honest it doesn't stop him doing well in races. Would regularly be up near the top end.

    Also it would be worth saying that felt have released a newer AR model, supposed to be more aero than old one but don't know when the plans to release it are.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭shansey


    joey100 wrote: »
    The usual advice to people would be to keep your road bike and buy a TT bike for racing on. But that depends on how serious you want to take racing I suppose. Cycling clubs will not let you out on group spins on a TT bike, so something to keep in mind if your thinking of selling your road bike. One lad in our club has an AR4 with clip on bars (I think, not sure of model but definitely an AR model) and to be honest it doesn't stop him doing well in races. Would regularly be up near the top end.

    Definitely want to take it much more seriously next year..

    I'm still a beginner I suppose but I want something to get better on that I won't outgrow too fast.. Sounds like the b16 is just that


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,131 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    You'd get an old cervelo p2 or even 3 frame for a fair bit under 2k and then build up yourself with new or even 2nd hand parts. Slane cycles up north have a good selection of old frames


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,818 ✭✭✭nerraw1111


    Work checking out wheelworx if you're in Dublin. They appear to have good deals on tri bikes around this time of year.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    A brand new 2013 cervelo p2 frame will cost 1600..and you could build it with decent components for 600-800 max..worth calling joe in hollingsworth cycles (the cervelo dealer in dublin)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    A brand new 2013 cervelo p2 frame will cost 1600..and you could build it with decent components for 600-800 max..worth calling joe in hollingsworth cycles (the cervelo dealer in dublin)

    Hollingsworth, bought a bike from them before. never set foot in there again.

    600-800?

    North of a grand and not including wheels and assuming you do all the work yourself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    tunney wrote: »
    Hollingsworth, bought a bike from them before. never set foot in there again.

    600-800?

    North of a grand and not including wheels and assuming you do all the work yourself.

    Bought frame in states but could have got in hollingsworth cheaper when u add in taxes/duty
    Had wheels and crankset. Frank o connor built it for me with all ultegra components and profile t1 bars...cost was 550 euros including build.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭shansey


    Think euro cycles are having a sale.. The ar5 might be down a bit.. With the BTW scheme possibly bring it all down to 1500.. Think it'd be a deal at that


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Bought frame in states but could have got in hollingsworth cheaper when u add in taxes/duty
    Had wheels and crankset. Frank o connor built it for me with all ultegra components and profile t1 bars...cost was 550 euros including build.

    So bar the two most expensive parts other than frame it was 550. ah right then.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 595 ✭✭✭rooneyjm


    Shansey, I was in Wheelworks last week and they are selling the B12 for 2200 if memory serves me correctly. They were also selling a second had B12 used by some triathlon winner (I've forgotter her name) for 2000. It looked in good condition, a few minor scratches.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭GarethM


    Anyone looking to upgrade to a serious set of wheels, I have a pair of mavic cosmic ultimates brand spanking new worth 2800 euro and am selling for 1600.

    These are top of the range wheels as used in TdF


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    tunney wrote: »
    So bar the two most expensive parts other than frame it was 550. ah right then.

    I could have done it even cheaper with 105 components


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭pgibbo


    I could have done it even cheaper with 105 components

    I think you're better off with Ultegra. I have 105 on my TT bike and notice a big difference between them and the Dura Ace on my road bike


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    I could have done it even cheaper with 105 components

    Entry level wheels 400, tri bars 200+.

    Once you take the expensive bits out then 600-800 fair enough


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    tunney wrote: »
    Entry level wheels 400, tri bars 200+.

    Once you take the expensive bits out then 600-800 fair enough


    Mavic Aksiums which are entry level wheels are 180 for a pair on bike discount. Crankset yes 200 euro

    My point is why spend 1500-2000 on an entry level tt bike when u could build a much higher spec bike for 2400-2500?

    1600 frame + 550 ..200 on wheels..200 crankset..and you dont have to buy reflectors like come on most felts!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Mavic Aksiums which are entry level wheels are 180 for a pair on bike discount. Crankset yes 200 euro

    My point is why spend 1500-2000 on an entry level tt bike when u could build a much higher spec bike for 2400-2500?

    1600 frame + 550 ..200 on wheels..200 crankset..and you dont have to buy reflectors like come on most felts!

    Unless a competent mechanic builds it its going to be a mess, Frank O'Connor and Paul in B2R are probably the only two people I would let near a bike of mine (other than mysself)

    Great parts put together badly mean a bad bike.

    Aksiums? I thought we had said reasonable parts? They are commuter level wheels.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    tunney wrote: »
    Unless a competent mechanic builds it its going to be a mess, Frank O'Connor and Paul in B2R are probably the only two people I would let near a bike of mine (other than mysself)

    Great parts put together badly mean a bad bike.

    Aksiums? I thought we had said reasonable parts? They are commuter level wheels.

    I did not know there was a level below entry level :D

    My whole point is why buy an entry level felt when you can pay that extra for a really good bike if your smart


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 257 ✭✭dited


    I got a new B16 from Eurocycles when they were on sale back in May, for €1300. Absolutely delighted with it so far; I reckon it's made a substantial difference to my TT times and I've had no problems with it mechanically.

    Fair enough, the wheels are not great, to put it mildly, and carbon bars would be nice, but as a TT bike for someone on a limited budget, I think it's ideal. Best argument for it was made by Dan Empfield on Slowtwitch:
    As a consumer, I'm always drawn to that place in a company's lineup where they're really straining to make a margin—where the company's bean counters wince as they look at how much money they're not making on an item, and just shrug their shoulders and say, "We'll make back our margin on the other models." That's the soft spot where, as a consumer, I figure I'll get my best value. If I was to guess, I'd say the B16 is that soft spot. This might be the most Felt for the least dollars.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    dited wrote: »
    I got a new B16 from Eurocycles when they were on sale back in May, for €1300. Absolutely delighted with it so far; I reckon it's made a substantial difference to my TT times and I've had no problems with it mechanically.

    Fair enough, the wheels are not great, to put it mildly, and carbon bars would be nice, but as a TT bike for someone on a limited budget, I think it's ideal. Best argument for it was made by Dan Empfield on Slowtwitch:

    Fair points. Cant argue with that view. one thing gets me though If they so clued in why do all shop models have reflectors on them?:rolleyes:
    Carbon bars aren't worth the money imo. Decent wheels are.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 257 ✭✭dited


    It's a test - it's perfectly acceptable to (try to) race on a B16 without reflectors, but if you leave them on ....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Fair points. Cant argue with that view. one thing gets me though If they so clued in why do all shop models have reflectors on them?:rolleyes:

    Legally required.
    Carbon bars aren't worth the money imo. Decent wheels are.

    Based on experience or unfounded opinion?

    I have alu bars and carbon bars (high quality heds) and notice the difference


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    tunney wrote: »
    Legally required.



    Based on experience or unfounded opinion?

    I have alu bars and carbon bars (high quality heds) and notice the difference

    What difference do you note with them? Do share.
    When Frank was building my bike he said for the weight difference they ar e not worth the money. I value Franks opinion. So went with the alu.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    What difference do you note with them? Do share.
    When Frank was building my bike he said for the weight difference they ar e not worth the money. I value Franks opinion. So went with the alu.

    Not weight, comfort. Not as harsh. Was very noticeable when I had them an an alu framed bike. For me that's the one of the big draws of carbon as a material (along with ability to mold it).

    I still like my alu bars, but thats more because of the extension shape being more suited to long course than the carbon ones (yes I should just buy new carbon extensions)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 595 ✭✭✭rooneyjm


    Someone in Ireland would clean up on tri bikes if they were properly set up. Most shops are not. You spend your time going around shops sitting on half built bikes, frames with no pedals or the sales guy holding the bike while you sit on it. If your lucky you might get a go on a turbo. When your spending 2-3k on something it would be nice to get a proper test run on it.

    From what I see none of the maunfactures set up at any of the big events to give atheletes a taste of their bikes. Maybe their making too much money as it is and dont need to make the effort?

    PX Ireland are selling the Exocet 2 (Dura Ace) for 3900 euro. PX UK are selling it for 2K sterling = 2400 euro. For the life of me I cant see 1500 euros worth of differences on the spec sheets, joke.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭Trig1


    Sorry ...i should have started with...my cycle to work scheme is back next summer .. 1000 euro- what to do with it
    My dilemma...feedback welcome
    My tt bike...Dolan Aria tt with absolute rubbish wheels but i love the bike
    My road bike.. BH road bike with aero bars which i also love...

    I have 3 options....
    1. trade in road bike and get new road bike for training
    2. trade in Dolan and get new tt bike
    3.. my favourite...pump 1000 euro into my Dolan Aria....chinese import 80mm clinchers for around 500 euro and upgrade as much of the groupset as possible to Shimano ultegra...

    Any thoughts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Trig1 wrote: »
    Sorry ...i should have started with...my back to work scheme is back next summer .. 1000 euro- what to do with it
    My dilemma...feedback welcome
    My tt bike...Dolan Aria tt with absolute rubbish wheels but i love the bike
    My road bike.. BH road bike with aero bars which i also love...

    I have 3 options....
    1. trade in road bike and get new road bike for training
    2. trade in Dolan and get new tt bike
    3.. my favourite...pump 1000 euro into my Dolan Aria....chinese import 80mm clinchers for around 500 euro and upgrade as much of the groupset as possible to Shimano ultegra...

    Any thoughts?

    Dolan TT bike, great TT bike. Geometry not taking advantage of the tri rules allowing steeper seatpost angles.

    Does a non drafting triathlete need a kick ass road bike? Or that they enjoy riding?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭Trig1


    tunney wrote: »
    Dolan TT bike, great TT bike. Geometry not taking advantage of the tri rules allowing steeper seatpost angles.

    Does a non drafting triathlete need a kick ass road bike? Or that they enjoy riding?

    Ya i definitely love my road bike and would not part with it, even if it is heavy and old.... i also Like the Dolan but just need to make it lighter and get some kick ass wheels...I think I know what I'll be doing already really... has anyone bought chinese import wheels??? or can anyone reccommend cheap ones...Looking at getting 60mm front and 80mm rear carbon clinchers..can get for around 500 on ebay delivered!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,435 ✭✭✭joey100


    Hey Trig, from what I know (and it's not a lot!) weight isn't a huge concern on TT bikes, it's more important to be aero. Not sure of the benefit of upgrading the full groupset, I have a bike with 105 and am just going to up grade when it needs to be changed anyway.

    How about a TT helmet? Or a disk wheel on the back, an aerojacket is a cheaper option and just covers the existing wheel. Talk about it earlier on in the thread but what is your base bar like?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭Trig1


    joey100 wrote: »
    Hey Trig, from what I know (and it's not a lot!) weight isn't a huge concern on TT bikes, it's more important to be aero. Not sure of the benefit of upgrading the full groupset, I have a bike with 105 and am just going to up grade when it needs to be changed anyway.

    How about a TT helmet? Or a disk wheel on the back, an aerojacket is a cheaper option and just covers the existing wheel. Talk about it earlier on in the thread but what is your base bar like?

    I have a giro advantage tt helmet already, my bike is very heavy due to the rubbish wheels i have on it so definitely need wheel upgrade..getting the clinchers plus an aero jacket could be a possibility...what is a base bar?? :o


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,435 ✭✭✭joey100


    It might not even be called that Trig, but it's pretty much your handlebar. On the felt I had it wasn't the most aero shape. Just something else that can be upgraded.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 708 ✭✭✭ray o


    The poor oul Felts are getting a an awful time here. I have the 2011 B16 and it has given me no problems and it doesn't hold me back either.

    Apart from a set of 404's the bike is as I bought it. I thought about getting areo bars on it but in reality I don't think they will make that much difference - it's very easy yo get caught up on the latest and greatest.

    Having a decent set of wheels, an aero helmet and actually training is what has made a difference.

    However if I was buying again it would be a P2.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 595 ✭✭✭rooneyjm


    Why not get the P3, its only 500 euro more expensive for the frame and its FASTER. I know because the man in the shop told me....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    rooneyjm wrote: »
    Why not get the P3, its only 500 euro more expensive for the frame and its FASTER. I know because the man in the shop told me....


    Ha!!!

    P3 & P4 flopped due to the changes they made to the frame another man said :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    rooneyjm wrote: »
    Why not get the P3, its only 500 euro more expensive for the frame and its FASTER. I know because the man in the shop told me....

    The P3 is faster if the more aggressive geometry suits you.
    Ha!!!

    P3 & P4 flopped due to the changes they made to the frame another man said :)

    The P3 was/is one of the most successful tri/tt bikes made.

    The P4 was a flop but not because of how it tested but how it looked.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭bryangiggsy


    tunney wrote: »
    The P3 is faster if the more aggressive geometry suits you.



    The P3 was/is one of the most successful tri/tt bikes made.

    The P4 was a flop but not because of how it tested but how it looked.

    So why has it not sold well again.?
    the aggresive geometry rigggghttt


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 595 ✭✭✭rooneyjm


    If you put the P2 and P3 frames beside each other they look the same w.r.t geometry, so people probably keep the extra money to upgrade the wheelset. Which is another thing that would drive you up the wall when buying tri bikes.

    Have you ever tried to explain to friend/partner that the wheels that come with your new tri bike are not really the ones you want or need. That you need to spend another grand on wheels. They just look at you, head shaking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27 ciah


    The latest P3 (2014 model) has more stack so it is less aggressive. Seems to be targeted at longer distance / average competitor. Seems expensive.
    Presume if one is on a budget it is better to go with P2 plus good set of wheels.
    If one can spend a bit more should it go into a better groupset, bars or frame(P3 instead of P2)?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭shansey


    looking at a second hand B16 for around 900...decent deal or being robbed?

    Again it'll be the first tt bike, my road bike is basic at best..

    Was looking at the AR5 too for 1800?..best of both or sitting on the fence?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 595 ✭✭✭rooneyjm


    If you knew the person id say go for it, if not then be a bit more careful. Has the groupset set been altered in any way, has the bike been crashed (not ideal with carbon). Most people would be honest enough but if there's a crack in that frame your in the sh*t. Go over it v carefully or bring someone who knows what to look for.

    A guy(45-49) in our club has an AR5 and finished 6th in his age group, so its not holding him back (has good wheels and tri bars).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 388 ✭✭shansey


    rooneyjm wrote: »
    If you knew the person id say go for it, if not then be a bit more careful. Has the groupset set been altered in any way, has the bike been crashed (not ideal with carbon). Most people would be honest enough but if there's a crack in that frame your in the sh*t. Go over it v carefully or bring someone who knows what to look for.

    A guy(45-49) in our club has an AR5 and finished 6th in his age group, so its not holding him back (has good wheels and tri bars).

    I've been put off a bit.. At the min I ride a 54 road bike.. The b16 is also 54 and someone has told me it would be too big for me.. Does this seem right?

    AR5 still def on my mind..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 595 ✭✭✭rooneyjm


    I have 54" Felt road bike and when I tried Felts Tri bikes I was a 52". Your seat post would be low but you could make it fit if you had to. I'd leave it and wait for the right bike, there will be plenty in the next few months.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 595 ✭✭✭rooneyjm


    Have a look below. PX get a bad rap sometimes but for the money you get alot more than most. Both within your budget and the UK deliver for £25.

    http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/CBPXSPFOR/planet_x_stealth_pro_carbon_sram_force_time_trial_bike
    or
    http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/CBPXSPFOR2/planet_x_stealth_sram_force_time_trial_bike


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,528 ✭✭✭foxyboxer


    I got the 2012 B16 and I think I was swayed by a comment/review on beginner triathlete that is a great starter bike purely based on the frame and I agree having used it for the past year. Most reviewers suggest changing out the standard components in a drip drip season by season basis.

    So far I've changed out; for this season;

    The saddle (Adamo Road)
    The aerobar to a more aesthetically pleasing bayonet 3. The stock one was cheap for the asking price tbh.

    Next up will be an ultegra crank and chain and getting the pennies together for a wheelset (endless choices). The only complaint through experience is that the wheelset is very very poor (i.e heavy). Had to hire a set of ENVE for a priority race as they were so heavy.

    If you see yourself taking on such an ongoing upgrade project then get the b16 or else stump up for a race ready bike imo.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    considering options for a tri bike as well. going with local shop, so options are trek, giant,fuji, ridley or cervelo. right now I'm leaning towards a P2 build


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