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Hen question

  • 11-09-2013 10:39am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 282 ✭✭


    Recently bought two point of lay pullets. Have them in an enclosed run 5m by 5m with a kennel approx 2 foot off the ground acting as a coop. I drilled a whole in both sides of the kennel and put a broom handle through it to act as a perch and I have a plank (with bits of 2by4 nailed on acting as a ladder) up to the door.
    From what i've read I thought the hens would automatically go into their coop/kennel each night and roost on the perch, however every night they both fly up on top of the kennel's roof and roost there. I've to lift them down and put them on the perch myself. Is this an indication that there is something wrong with the coop??

    Also i've put two slates on the floor of the kennel acting as removable tiles to catch their droppings rather than having to replace straw every week-is there any problem with doing this??

    Any help would be appreciated...


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    welcome to hen keeping!
    There is nothing wrong with your kennel-coop. Your hens have to be SHOWN to use their house to roost/nest in at night. So for about a week, when its dusk, you go out and pick them up off the roof of the kennel (they will be very tame/quiet because its dusk/darkish) and pop them into the kennel-coop. CLOSE THE DOOR! (they need to be kept inside securely at night - there are too many predators out there). They will realize that the coop is for sleeping in after about 2 or 3 nights and go in themselves.

    The tiles on the floor are fine. I would put layers of newspaper (or a flattened cardboard box) on top just from an insulation point of view though. Then whip out the dirty newspaper/cardboard once a week. I have access to straw, and put a bit in my coops.

    You will need to put a nestbox of some sort into the coop for them to lay in. LIne it with shredded newspaper or straw. They will start to use it to lay in automatically.

    Some hens wont roost. Some will. They will just sleep on the floor - another reason to put something over the slate tiles.

    (Just FYI, it would be better to get a 3rd hen - that way when/if one dies, the other wont be left alone/lonely. If you get another now, when they are all 'new' there wont be too much trouble with hen-pecking/pecking order.)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,034 ✭✭✭Bizzum


    As above, they need to be introduced to get the hang of their accommodation.
    In addition I would replace the narrow brush handle with a nice bough 2-3" in diameter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 282 ✭✭patsman07


    Thanks aonb,

    I do close the door when I put them in although I think the run their in is predator proof. They are surrounded on three sides by 8 foot walls and on the other by 5ft chicken wire with more wire buried to prevent burrowing.
    I've had them a week and have had to lift them in each night so far so hopefully they will go in of their own accord soon.
    You mention getting a third, With the exception of predator attacks, what are the chances such young hens will die on me?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    if they came from a decent breeder, you should be absolutely fine. Hens though are the most fragile creatures - and they are incredibly good at 'hiding' their sicknesses (because they dont want to loose their place in their pecking order)

    Ive been very lucky with my hens down thru the years. If you feed them layers pellets, always plenty of fresh water, keep them wormed (twice/year) you will hopefully be fine.

    Your set up sounds great with 8' walls - make sure that they have some shelter from rain? If they're not freeranging, add in a few branches and stuff to climb to keep them 'entertained', throw in bunches of dandelions, or the odd cabbage or broccolli to hang up in their run.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,558 ✭✭✭paddylonglegs


    Just got a gift of 2 hens and a coop!

    Was a bit if a surprise so I'm on the back foot in terms of care and comfort.

    I think they are a Maran and a black rock.

    The nesting box is approx 18 x 18 inches, and the outside part is About 2 foot in length. I've noticed that have left droppings in nesting box quite a bit and it smells bad. How often should I clean this and will they get out of this habit? I would like to build them a bigger coop but I have to figure out the whole thing first and get over the surprise!

    Also, how do I introduce a west highland terrier to them? My gift giver obviously didn't think of this! Should I try and keep them apart? It's in his nature to run around after small animals but he gets used to other pets quite fast if he knows they are part of the gang.

    Thanks!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    My hens poo in their nesting box every night - they will like to sleep in the nesting box, and you know how much hens poo - nothing much you can do about it. I line the nesting box with a good pad of newpaper, and then top it up with straw. Every morning, I lift up the pad of newspaper, with the poo covered straw on top - and tip it out. Then back goes the straw/newspaper into the nest box.

    As for your dog and the hens - I have two jack russells, that completely ignore the hens. When I got the hens, I put them on a leash and walked by the hens, to see what the reaction was. It took a while (me shouting NO!!! everytime the dogs went near the hens) You will soon see how the dog is going to react to the hens. My lot are fine with the hens now, but Ive heard horror stories, so really you can to judge it for yourself.

    Let us know how you go, and if you have any questions/issues, will be happy to help out!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,558 ✭✭✭paddylonglegs


    First 2 eggs arrived yesterday evening. Result.

    A couple of questions. I was given grain mix to feed them everyday. I have this in a bowl until I get a feeder. Should I always have a constant supply of feed for them or should I feed a certain amount every day?

    Also, I have read that there is enough nutrition balance in the grain mix and I shouldn't feed them vegetables at the same time. Is this the case or can I feed a combo of veg and grain mix?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    Hah, you are on the slippery slope to HEN-itis now 8-)

    What do you mean by grain mix? The PERFECT food for hens is LAYERS PELLETS. This is probably the only food that you should feed them - it contains everything they need.

    If you dont mean Layers Pellets and mean a mixed grain, then this is NOT the ideal food for hens and egg production. I would go and buy a bag of Layers Pellets - I add hot water in the winter to make a dry-ish mash. Mixed grain (or grain of any sort) should only be fed in the afternoons when they have eaten their pellets during the day. Hens wont eat pellets if there is something else much nicer to eat!!! Giving them anything other than Layers Pellets is a really bad habit to get in to (mine are spoiled rotten brats, but Ive won, and the little biddies are eating their pellets again - with mixed grain in the afternoons)

    The ideal is to have a constant supply of pellets available at all times. Hens wont over eat. If you are buying a feeder/hopper, I would highly recommend you get one with a 'rain hat' cover on - if its not under cover/shelter from rain. This will also keep crows/wild birds from eating their food.

    There are lists on the internet as to what veg/foods to feed them. Mine would kill for sweetcorn, peas, tomatos, grapes, melon, cooked (never raw) potatos, cooked rice, cooked pasta, most cooked veg really. Bread has no nutritional benefit to them (salt in bread is bad for them - in fact salt is bad full stop) A little dish of probiotic yogourt a couple times/week is good for their crop health, and the calcium. A bit of protein from oily fish - sardines etc is good if they're moulting. Again, all of these things will mean that they are not going to eat the Layers Pellets (do I sound anal?!?!)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,410 ✭✭✭bbam


    Ours have access to pellets and sand in feeders.
    But I would disagree a bit with the above post. If I just wanted eggs from commercially fed hens then I'd head for Tesco.
    Ours get a varied diet, and get out in the garden most days to poke about too. They love boiled rice, bread, sweet corn but lettuce most of all.
    If you can manage it they adore nettles. I pull some with sturdy gloves and they savage them.
    Ours would be out all the time except MrFox is a regular visitor in the garden.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 412 ✭✭Rho b


    bbam wrote: »
    Ours have access to pellets and sand in feeders.
    But I would disagree a bit with the above post. If I just wanted eggs from commercially fed hens then I'd head for Tesco.
    Ours get a varied diet, and get out in the garden most days to poke about too. They love boiled rice, bread, sweet corn but lettuce most of all.
    If you can manage it they adore nettles. I pull some with sturdy gloves and they savage them.
    Ours would be out all the time except MrFox is a regular visitor in the garden.
    I would agree with you bbam regarding pellets and eggs. They were invented for commercial set ups as a complete feed due to the intensive nature of the business. I prefer to feed mine whole grain mostly wheat, but I add soaked barley, and maize during the winter when the weather is cold. Occasionally I buy the odd bag of layers mash to mix in as well.
    They also get veg scraps, cooked leftovers mixed in their food when available and they are allowed to free range to pick whatever grubs/insects that they choose.
    During the moult I also give them sardines/tuna in sunflower oil to up their protein content.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    Bbam and Rho B, I absolutely see your point. My hens have always been more like pets than hens. I have many hens that no longer lay eggs, that are still very well cared for. But after years of experience I have come to the conclusion that hens are so fragile, that keeping them on hen food is the safest/best thing for them. My hens still get treats most days - cooked veg, fruit, oily fish, probiotic yoghurt, sweetcorn, mixed grain etc etc, but at the end of the day, they have to eat their organic, gm-free layers pellets which has ALL the nutrients they need to stay healthy.

    The problem though with hens and their fragile systems, and their very easily imbalanced crops is that feeding them anything other than hen food is tricky. Any salt is potentially lethal to a hen (bread has a lot of salt). Processed foods can throw their crops out of whack so easily. Have you ever had to tip a hen to get the revolting muck out of her crop - sour crop - or worse, deal with impacted crop?

    (Lettuce is actually bad for hens (sorry!) - it causes diarrahea. My hen run is full of the nettles the girls wont eat - hens are such contrary birds - what yours will devour, mine will ignore and vice versa)

    Anyway, just my 2cents worth - my hens wouldnt touch a layers pellet if there was a treat about - but would you allow a toddler to eat nothing but sweets all day ...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 412 ✭✭Rho b


    Aonb to be honest I totally agree with you regarding lettuce. My girls never touch it. Also as you said salt is a big no no with hens. Having said that I never use salt when cooking, it is up to my family to salt their own food. I do give them the odd bit of stale bread - no mould and soaked overnight from time to time.
    However I do not agree with you that hens are fragile characters. I find mine to be robust and healthy, although I rarely buy in new birds other than the odd rooster who goes into quarantine for several weeks before he is allowed to run with whatever breed.
    Regarding your comment re hens/treats and children/sweets - personally I do not think that feeding cooked veg in their feed is a treat. Neither is feeding whole grain a treat. I know there is an issue about feeding barley without the enzyme additive but I reckon by soaking it in boiling water the night before they maybe able to get some nutrients from it. If not than at least it is a filler.
    At the end of the day, domesticated hens have managed to survive on whole grains not compounded/pelleted feed, since domestication for the last few thousand years.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    All good points Rho B.

    I have found that when I have problems with my girls, its has been because, the amount of treats they're eating is greater than the amount of Layers Pellets they have been eating. (Anything that isnt layers pellets, I classify as a treat!) I have also found that if they are being fed treats they wont eat pellets. What happens on days when there are no treats to give?! Treats are expensive! Layers Pellets contain a nutritionally balanced diet. If you can get the balance right, which you seem to have done, and your hens are staying physically well, then that is great. I just hate to see a newcomer to hens not feeding 'correctly' - but as you say, hens have been successfully domesticated for thousands of years - longer than commercially pelleted feeds.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,410 ✭✭✭bbam


    Hens developed to scavenge around for whatever they can root out.
    This is still evident in their scratching in the dirt.
    It's funny the differing approaches. We try and feed as varied a diet as is possible.
    Currently they have a mix of rolled oats and layers mash in their hopper feeder. But yesterday they got boiled rice and sweet corn as we'll.

    As for making hot mashes to feed them. I can understand the sentiment and I'm sure they enjoy it. But they didn't develop eating hot food and it's just a luxury for them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    the other thing we can forget is that today's hens are bred to produce a huge number of eggs - 300+/year is normal - this means that the hen is under huge physical pressure. For this reason I believe that pellets which yes are a commercial product, at least has the correct amount, proportion and variety of ingredients to maintain a modern hen producing this huge number of eggs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Im new to keeping hens and I presumed to feed them on layer pellets- but they wouldnt touch them so I went off and got layers mash, to which they responded to... (I couldnt leave them go hungry!)

    Mine are ex battery so I presumed a commercially laying bird would be kept on pellets but this appears to have not been the case given their reaction to pellets. :confused:

    I also feed them mixed vegetables, cabbage/ cooked potato etc...

    How do I go about changing them to pellets if thats what I should do? Ive tried mixing pellets with mash but pellets are always left...

    thanks. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 412 ✭✭Rho b


    muckyhands - mine never eat layers pellets although they will eat growers pellets that they rob from time to time.
    Layers pellets are basically the pelleted form of layers mash that contains everything a hen needs to produce an egg. They are easier to use in commercial set ups where the control of quantity eaten is required and reduce dust in the air in large battery houses.
    Maybe you could try by only offering pellets in their morning feed for a few days and see how you get on. If you could get a small bag of pellets from someone to try instead of buying a full bag.
    As they are ex bats it is more than likely that they only were fed on pellet feed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Thanks Rho b, Ill try that and see how they get on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    Muckyhands, if they eat layers mash instead of pellets I wouldnt worry - same thing. Ex-batts god love them, often take a while to accept changes. If you have bought already a bag of pellets that you want to use up, you could try making a mash by adding hot water to the pellets, to the same consistancy as the layers mash. You could sprinkle a few tidbits on top of your home made mash to entice them - sometimes they mightnt recognise it as food as their sense of smell isnt great... Good luck with your exbatts - are they in good shape?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Aonb, thanks for that.

    I have a grit feeder which they use too so I hope theyre getting all they need between that and the mash. Have started giving mixed corn in the evenings too re the warming effect its said to have.

    God love them they barely had a feather on them the day I got them but theyre coming along fantastically so far. Have been laying since the day after I got them and still are- though I have noticed theyre not all laying every day some days now.

    I have been giving them mealworms too and as I said in a different post my thinking is theyre producing eggs but also growing new feathers so may need a little extra protein? Is there anything else I could offer for extra protein?

    Thanks everyone for the replies and sorry if Ive hijacked this thread. :o


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,277 ✭✭✭aonb


    Protein for hens: tinned oily fish (mackeral/tuna/sardines) - in oil NOT brine. Fishy cat food - the pate type (not dog food) Scrambled eggs - no salt/milk - I whisk an egg and put it into the microwave for few seconds.

    They REALLY need a bit of extra protein to help get the feathers growing back - especially if they are still laying during a moult.

    I had some exbatts - the condition they arrived in would make you cry - they soon picked up and layed for a while, but didnt live very long after the terrible early life they had. Good for you for rescuing some exbatts!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Thanks Aonb, got some tinned tuna in sunflower oil today so Ill try them with it tomorrow.


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