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Method of spraying rushes

  • 02-08-2013 10:19pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68 ✭✭


    Hi all,
    I'm wondering how you are spraying your rushes
    I have a 100 gallon tank, I add 1 gallon ( 4.5 litres) to a full tank (1% soln) of mcpa 500, and that does about 3 acres
    Travelling in 3rd low in a Massey 690

    I'm wondering if I add 2 gallons and travel a bit faster and cover 6 acres with one tank full will I get the same results
    My current method is working fantastic and is killing everything, rushes & docks ( after a few years of spraying all docks gone ) problem is it takes time to travel back to the yard and refill and drive out to the fields again, and with working full time I need to make the most of the the few fine days whilst managing the grazing rotation also, I've done about 30 acres so far this year but have about another 30 left at home and possible another 30 in an out farm

    I know I have to drain the farm and that's happening and making great progress every year , i am not changing spray ,
    Thanks for any interest


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    100 gallons is 450 litres so you are using 125L/acre. Yes you could cut in half are you using an additive/sticker they are cheap and allow the spray to work better.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nashmach


    Spraying at 100l to the acre of water here and adding 1 litre of MCPA and some sticker also.

    To get you going right with water you need to check your nozzles and then spray an acre with a clean tank and just check it that way.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,301 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    If i can but in on this thread slightly!
    Will be spraying mcpa soon with a knapsack . Some spot spraying and a bit blanket covering . I have few questions
    A whats the oppertune time to spray ?
    B can i still graze after spraying ?
    C what %solution should i use

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,081 ✭✭✭td5man


    nashmach wrote: »
    Spraying at 100l to the acre of water here and adding 1 litre of MCPA and some sticker also.

    To get you going right with water you need to check your nozzles and then spray an acre with a clean tank and just check it that way.

    http://www.teejet.com/english/home/calculator/calibration-calculator.aspx


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nashmach


    td5man wrote: »

    As far as I know that is under ideal conditions and doesn't take into account such things as wheel slip percentage etc.

    When we bought our sprayer 10 years ago, the vendor gave us a guide based on a similar chart and said you may need to adjust to get it spot on hence the trial run.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    I think you have to travel slow enough to let the spray envelope the rushes. Travelling twice the speed might not let that happen, but then again perhaps you are traveling too slow as it is.

    I have a small sprayer half the size if your one, but it does specify travelling at 1mph! A pain in the rear, but I don't have too much to do.

    If it's not broken don't fix it though! If your method is working for you then stick at it. Half dead rushes aren't dead!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 94 ✭✭Wigster


    I sprayed rushes 5 weeks ago with mcpa. I put in 7 litres into a 400 l sprayer and sprayed 5 acres. They are dying but I am very disappointed with the results. I think I was driving too fast? How long does it take mcpa to work? Could they be cut or should I leave them?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 136 ✭✭airneal


    Hi all, when spraying rushes always make sure you Top them to about 6 inch's first!! If you really want a long lasting job.

    Ideally spray when the rush is Actively growing i.e. in early spring.

    So, cut first, spray when actively growing.

    Then sort your drainage in the affected area


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 102 ✭✭jmurf100


    Which works better on rushes: MCPA or Mortone?
    Or is there any difference?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 533 ✭✭✭towzer2010


    Wigster wrote: »
    I sprayed rushes 5 weeks ago with mcpa. I put in 7 litres into a 400 l sprayer and sprayed 5 acres. They are dying but I am very disappointed with the results. I think I was driving too fast? How long does it take mcpa to work? Could they be cut or should I leave them?

    I'd leave them until they are fully dead before cutting. I think you may have put it out a bit thin but they will still die at that rate. I always put 4 litres of mcpa in 300 litres of water with sticker on 1 hectare and have always got a great kill. If you can pull a handful of them out of the middle of the tuft and they come away easily at the root they are dead. They don't die off that quick after MCPA in my experience anyway.

    I sprayed rushes last month and I wont cut them for another few weeks until they have died off or they will come back quicker.
    jmurf100 wrote: »
    Which works better on rushes: MCPA or Mortone?
    Or is there any difference?

    I've used both and I find MCPA better


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,244 ✭✭✭sea12


    Wigster wrote: »
    I sprayed rushes 5 weeks ago with mcpa. I put in 7 litres into a 400 l sprayer and sprayed 5 acres. They are dying but I am very disappointed with the results. I think I was driving too fast? How long does it take mcpa to work? Could they be cut or should I leave them?

    It will still work. I did something similar in may. Took a long time to kill but it's working .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,465 ✭✭✭supersean1999


    One 10l drum does 5 acres . I use 2l in a 300l sprayer per acre apx. Best résults this yr were Rushes cut and sprayed at 18 inches


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68 ✭✭kingdom fan


    Hi all,

    Sorry for the delay in replying but was away from the pc, could read the comments but couldnt reply on the iphone for some reason.
    I never use the sticker and im picky enough when I spray and I feel I dont need it.
    The MCPA is a bit slow to work but I feel it gives gr8 results.
    I havent the time for topping so never do it . Ive seen it many times, the spring after spraying the rushes will be dead and the grass will grow in a big clump aroung teh dead rushes and the cattle will eat the lot after a while.
    I spray heavy on old rushes alright at over 2L / acre but after cutting silage for example im always a little cautious about going any heavier than 1L/acre, the rushes are short and young but the grass is very soft. I got burned a few years ago, I cant remember if it was wet or cold or what but I sprayed after the silage as a few rushes and docks were coming, the grass simply stoped for the rest of the year, I had a field this year also that I sprayed very heavy and the grass growth is very poor but its wet and waiting for a contractor for drains.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 94 ✭✭Wigster


    I have a field that's infested with very heavy rushes. (Not cut with a few years). Considering licking them in few weeks as was told that mcpa wouldn't be great for them as they are too strong?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68 ✭✭kingdom fan


    I did a field about 4 years ago when I gought my sprayer, it was wasnt sprayed or cut in years, fairly heavy at over 2 l mspa/acre and very slow adn the following year you wouldnt know the field, not a single rush. I dont do any topping as I simply dont have time.
    spray away fine and hard if its that bad with rushes you wont miss the grass it'll stunt.
    Ive done about 4 acres for a neighbour, now I wasnt even remotely trying to do my best as the field was cat with rushes not a blade of grass I put out 4 litres on it for him a month ago. he says all the rushes are dead i havent seen it but the proof will be next year. I left a strip about 10ft wide down the middle as a way of comparing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,488 ✭✭✭coolshannagh28


    The secret to killing rushes is to spray when they are growing well and before a dry period if possible as the combination of drought and poison is particularly effective .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 506 ✭✭✭Alibaba


    Have been spraying with MCPA - Agritox for years. Gives a great kill anytime they're done i've found even on strong rushes.

    Maybe on strong rushes go a bit heavier with the dose.

    But the best way to keep rushes away i've found is to give them a touch up every year, drive around the field and hit any clumps that are coming up again the following year.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 94 ✭✭Wigster


    Would it be too late to hot them at end of August?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    Wigster wrote: »
    I have a field that's infested with very heavy rushes. (Not cut with a few years). Considering licking them in few weeks as was told that mcpa wouldn't be great for them as they are too strong?

    If you are using a licker then use roundup for the simple reason that it will give a better kill. However spraying with MCPA is very effective against the bull rush really keeps them under control. Also keeps docks, thistles nettle etc at bay.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 61 ✭✭REBEL COUNTY1


    Wigster wrote: »
    Would it be too late to hot them at end of August?


    Can anyone advise on this please?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 506 ✭✭✭Alibaba


    Wigster wrote: »
    Would it be too late to hot them at end of August?

    I presume you mean to spray them.

    No it wouldn't.
    I've often done them in September and even into October.
    Perfect kill. No problems and they will rot away over the winter


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68 ✭✭kingdom fan


    The field I did for a neighbour and didn't really give a sh!t€ about, walked it today, gr8 job, totally killed off everything
    The bits if the headland and a little bit a feet wide down the middle are I missed are great to emphasise how we'll it's working as these areas are pure green and growing like mad, the rest of the field it all dead


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    The field I did for a neighbour and didn't really give a sh!t€ about, walked it today, gr8 job, totally killed off everything
    The bits if the headland and a little bit a feet wide down the middle are I missed are great to emphasise how we'll it's working as these areas are pure green and growing like mad, the rest of the field it all dead

    Tell him take out the Budget to do the rest


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Tell him take out the Budget to do the rest

    Ya the budget is very severe on things, especially in October!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 94 ✭✭Wigster


    Hi all,

    Sorry for the delay in replying but was away from the pc, could read the comments but couldnt reply on the iphone for some reason.
    I never use the sticker and im picky enough when I spray and I feel I dont need it.
    The MCPA is a bit slow to work but I feel it gives gr8 results.
    I havent the time for topping so never do it . Ive seen it many times, the spring after spraying the rushes will be dead and the grass will grow in a big clump aroung teh dead rushes and the cattle will eat the lot after a while.
    I spray heavy on old rushes alright at over 2L / acre but after cutting silage for example im always a little cautious about going any heavier than 1L/acre, the rushes are short and young but the grass is very soft. I got burned a few years ago, I cant remember if it was wet or cold or what but I sprayed after the silage as a few rushes and docks were coming, the grass simply stoped for the rest of the year, I had a field this year also that I sprayed very heavy and the grass growth is very poor but its wet and waiting for a contractor for drains.

    Kingdom fan, at 2l per acre how much water do you use for the acre? Reading all the posts here some people apply at a rate of 1.5 to 2 liters/acre in 300 liters of water where as more people put out 4 liters per 300 liters of water per hectare. Is it better to be well diluted and an acre get a good dosing of water?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    Wigster wrote: »
    Kingdom fan, at 2l per acre how much water do you use for the acre? Reading all the posts here some people apply at a rate of 1.5 to 2 liters/acre in 300 liters of water where as more people put out 4 liters per 300 liters of water per hectare. Is it better to be well diluted and an acre get a good dosing of water?

    That an awful amount of water 50-60L/Acre will do. so 300L tank 5-6 acres. No need to be racing in and out of the yard to fill


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60 ✭✭BigWill


    I've tried every way believe me, for years. Spraying, cutting and spraying, all sorts but I found the best method of all is to spray them with mcpa or mortone but increase the dose and cut them to the butt about 3 weeks later. They won't even look like they aware even dying but the killer has got to the root at that stage and by cutting them you also take away their ability to recover, apparently rushes need natural light to recover in the same way as they need it to germinate. I got that advice from a very experienced professional green keeper and it worked perfectly. My mate thought I was loosing it cutting them in 3 weeks but the proof is in the pudding, where the ground was too rough to cut the rushes have recovered about 20% but wiped out where they were cut, the difference is unreal and the line of the last cut can be clearly seen this year. He also reckons that extremely heavy rushes benefit from being rolled first to split the skin of the rush and the sponge sucks in the week killer very effectively.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 594 ✭✭✭fanadman1


    If you are licking what about gallop only what the licker touchs dies remember


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 285 ✭✭raypallas


    airneal wrote:
    Hi all, when spraying rushes always make sure you Top them to about 6 inch's first!! If you really want a long lasting job.


    +1

    Exactly what we do, we usually spray 3/4 weeks after topping find we get a great kill.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,263 ✭✭✭50HX


    used a weed licker this year on them - the one with the bristles - contact 2000

    some job - put out MCPA good and strong and twas effective as round up by the looks of it

    did a bit of trial and error on a few fields and like a previous post cut them after 3 weeks and them a shake of fertilizer or slurry - need the fertilizer to get the grass going, that way the grass takes over and doesn't give the rush a chance to grow

    never again using a sprayer - this was the most effective and cost effective way of getting shot of em even if it is tedious work


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3 sg113


    Does anyone know best jets to use when building a carpet weed licker?
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,719 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Jets with wide angle as possible to wet as much of the carpet as possible.

    We just used qualplex with 2mm hole every ~30cm. But it's a real farnkenstine of a yoke :(

    Wet carpet with water before starting helps get things going too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 177 ✭✭pat73


    Just wondering do you have to have the spraying course done to use a weed licker?


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 260 ✭✭Jimlh86


    pat73 wrote: »
    Just wondering do you have to have the spraying course done to use a weed licker?

    You need it to apply pesticide so as far as I know yes. I'm trying to get a spot on a course but they aren't being run too frequently at the minute!


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