Engine problems with Golf TDI 1.9l

Mel26

Any other owners of 08 Golf tdi 1.9l having problems with it? Recently I have had 4 breakdowns while driving. The car won't start on first few attempts but then may start 20 minutes later....was told it was the fuel pump and had it fixed twice but this is still happening!! The passenger door also stopped opening a few months back....basically endless problems with this car and is costing me a fortune in repairs (and Im still paying it off!!). I bought it from a car dealership so expected a decent car...taking it back to the dealership to get looked at but worried this will cost a fortune and that I will be screwed...advice anyone?!

Plug

CPS sensors can give bother on these. Maybe thats your problem. Ask George Dalton here, he is the VW man around boards.

George Dalton

Are you saying that the car stops while driving, then won't restart for 20 minutes? What diagnosis was carried out to decide that the fuel pump was faulty?

Mel26

The mechanic took it for a few days and said the only thing he could find that was faulty was the fuel pump...I don't know what was done but second time he had a look at it he didnt charge me, but now it has happened again

Yes, three times it has just lost power and cut out while driving so had to pull it over to the side of main roads, when the mechanic came to tow it it started fine (though once he looked at it he said it was the fuel pump)....then this week it wouldnt start outside my house. It will start if I rev it and then re-started fine 20 minutes later, but I'm afraid to drive it now. The oil is fine and I haven't put petrol into it ever which is what people keep asking me!

I went online and spoke to another mechanic and saw that there has been problems with engine software for some of the golfs of around that year?? If it turns out to be an electrical fault with the car, should the dealership who sold me the car take responsibility for it?

enumbers

It could be the power supply to the pump thats at issue rather than the pump itself. Any more info on why the pump was replaced.

George Dalton

Mel26 wrote: »

If it turns out to be an electrical fault with the car, should the dealership who sold me the car take responsibility for it?

How long do you have the car?

Mel26

I have it just over 2 years

George Dalton

Why do you think the dealer who sold you the car should take responsibility for the problem?

Mel26

Because I have heard from looking online and talking to another mechanic of problems with golfs relating to the engine, and i bought it from a volkwagen garage...hence if I haven't actually done any damage to the car and it was a fault waiting to happen, should volkswagen not do something about it?

Mel26

enumbers wrote: »

It could be the power supply to the pump thats at issue rather than the pump itself. Any more info on why the pump was replaced.

The mechanic (a friend of my family) told me that he looked at everything else on the car and the only thing he could trace it back to was the fuel pump, he had ordered a new pump and put that in for me, then car broke down again a day or two later...he told me that the fuel pump that was sent to him was also a faulty one and that volkswagen (who sent him the part) had emailed him and apologised for this..anyway he fixed it again but now 2-3 weeks later im back to square one

debabyjesus

Mel26 wrote: »

he told me that the fuel pump that was sent to him was also a faulty one and that volkswagen (who sent him the part) had emailed him and apologised for this/

Sounds dodgy tbh. Did he suspect the fuel pump from a fault code or what?

bmm

Volkswagen dont send emails unless it's a VW Service Dealer. Find a proper mechanic who tells the truth.

George Dalton

bmm wrote: »

Volkswagen dont send emails unless it's a VW Service Dealer. Find a proper mechanic who tells the truth.

I deal with VW via email for parts every day.

166man

I find it hard to understand why a used car you bought not two weeks ago but two years ago, you feel you can bring it back to the dealer and ask him to sort it.

Honestly at the end of the day dealers are in the business of making a living out of it, it amazes me sometimes this idea that the dealer is obliged to fix it.

New cars and warranties are an entirely different story.

enumbers

How the hell can a dealer be expected to cover a 08 car 2 years after purchase I would normally not be overly impressed by most dealers but how could anyone be expected to cover a car for that long.

George Dalton

Mel26 wrote: »

The mechanic (a friend of my family) told me that he looked at everything else on the car and the only thing he could trace it back to was the fuel pump, he had ordered a new pump and put that in for me, then car broke down again a day or two later...he told me that the fuel pump that was sent to him was also a faulty one and that volkswagen (who sent him the part) had emailed him and apologised for this..anyway he fixed it again but now 2-3 weeks later im back to square one

When the car stops on the road does it just stop straight away like you turned off the key?
Or does it happen more gradually?
When you pull over does the engine continue to idle for a few seconds before cutting out altogether?
Does the engine make any strange noises when the fault occurs?
Is there any smoke from the exhaust when it happens?
When you try to re-start the engine does it make any attempt to start?
Does the engine sound like it is turning over faster than usual when you attempt to start it right after it cuts out?

Mel26

Thats fine, not what I wanted to hear but good to know this before I go into them. Looks like I will be parting with another few hundred to get this heap of crap fixed >:(

Mel26

Sorry George, above comment was in relation to the dealership and car being over 2 years old.
To answer the questions...
1. When the car stops, the power in the accelerator goes completely (will not rev at all and feels lax) but I have been able to pull it into the side of the road as it slows to a halt, though there was one instance that it began to cut as I went up a hill - I felt the car lose power (car would not accelerate to get up the hill) so I stopped it on hard shoulder and then it would not start again.
2. Yes it idled for a few seconds when I pulled up on the hill (when I felt the car losing power)...I then turned off the car but it would not re-start...when I try to re-start the car acts normal on first turn of the key, but on second turn to start it up it just makes this chugging noise. Sometimes revving it will start it in this case, but not always.
3. No strange noises from the car, but there must have been some sort of smoke as a car had flashed me from behind just before it cut out on one occasion (so I'm assuming the car saw smoke)
4. See point 2...it will try to re-start but not always successful. It started fine this evening and I took it around the block for a short drive and it sounded / felt fine...however I feel this will be short-lived!
5. Yes when it has cut out and I am trying to restart it, it makes a quick chugging kind of sound (like it's trying to fire but not quite getting there?) (if that makes sense!)

Thanks for taking the time to answer me!!

unkel

Mel26 wrote: »

Thats fine, not what I wanted to hear but good to know this before I go into them. Looks like I will be parting with another few hundred to get this heap of crap fixed >:(

Perhaps you should answer George Daltons question instead in the post before yours.

Until you give us more specific details, it sounds like an intermittent fuelling problem. As enumbers suggested, it could be that the fuel pump isn't getting power all the time. Maybe as simple as a dodgy fuel pump fuse / relay?

Mel26

just answered it had not seen his questions before

George Dalton

Mel26 wrote: »

Sorry George, above comment was in relation to the dealership and car being over 2 years old.
To answer the questions...
1. When the car stops, the power in the accelerator goes completely (will not rev at all and feels lax) but I have been able to pull it into the side of the road as it slows to a halt, though there was one instance that it began to cut as I went up a hill - I felt the car lose power (car would not accelerate to get up the hill) so I stopped it on hard shoulder and then it would not start again.
2. Yes it idled for a few seconds when I pulled up on the hill (when I felt the car losing power)...I then turned off the car but it would not re-start...when I try to re-start the car acts normal on first turn of the key, but on second turn to start it up it just makes this chugging noise. Sometimes revving it will start it in this case, but not always.
3. No strange noises from the car, but there must have been some sort of smoke as a car had flashed me from behind just before it cut out on one occasion (so I'm assuming the car saw smoke)
4. See point 2...it will try to re-start but not always successful. It started fine this evening and I took it around the block for a short drive and it sounded / felt fine...however I feel this will be short-lived!
5. Yes when it has cut out and I am trying to restart it, it makes a quick chugging kind of sound (like it's trying to fire but not quite getting there?) (if that makes sense!)

Thanks for taking the time to answer me!!

Have seen a few of these where the anti shudder valve (electric throttle body type part on the intake manifold) gets dirty and can't open fully. This means that it can get sucked closed while the engine is running.

This causes the engine to cut out as it can't take in any air. The harder it tries to suck air in the more the valve will close so it just chokes itself and cuts out. The reason why the engine turns over really quickly when you are trying to start is that it cannot take in any air to compress so the starter is under much less load than normal so it can spin the engine over much faster as a consequence.

The solution is quick and easy, take off the valve and clean it out.

Mel26

Well I'll be a happy woman if that's the case, so if that is the reason for the breakdowns, it should not be too expensive to sort out?? Thanks George

Thanks a mil everyone for the advice, hopefully I'll be sorted by tomorrow

Mel26

Hi again,

So brought it in to get looked at...and told that I need a new ignition switch 'as a first step' (costs approx 160e), does this sound like it will fix the problem or does this mean 'we will see what happens but might not actually work'? When I saw the words 'first step' I panicked a little! Also need other stuff done to car (i.e. filters, brake pads etc which is fine) but between everything with service etc it's costing about 630euro and that's with omitting some of the lesser items on the list of things I need.

Say I pay the cost of the part and then the car still breaks down again in a week or two, what happens then? Do I just have to fork out again for another part and labour?

enumbers

The symptoms you describe really do not sound like an ignition switch issue, the fault diagnostic process by replacing parts is not acceptable what reason is been given that indicates an ignition switch fault

sean1141

Forget your mechanic and take it to George. The man knows what he is talking about.
Did you take his advice and clean out the valve?

I dont know about the mk5 but the back of the ignition switch gave trouble on the mk3 and mk4s. The part for the mk4 was about 40 quid IIRC and I would think its the same as the mk5. Same type key anyway. There is a bit of work involved but nothing major. Taking off the steering wheel is the hardest part.

Mel26

enumbers wrote: »

The symptoms you describe really do not sound like an ignition switch issue, the fault diagnostic process by replacing parts is not acceptable what reason is been given that indicates an ignition switch fault

Im not a car expert, but I also thought that too from what everyone on here has said...this problem is not just happening when I'm turning on the car, it happens as I'm driving too....I feel like I'm getting into a blackhole with it and I cannot afford it Not saying they are trying to screw me or anything but I am a woman with not much knowledge on cars so I would be an easy target for quick money at the same time! I do not want to pay for something if they are unsure whether it is or is not the cause

Mel26

The statement I have here says 'Different symptoms but faulty switch would cause same complaints as customer describes. Ignition switch needs to be replaced as a first step'. I paid for a service too which is where the other parts are coming from (separate to main issue) so I'm just picking the main one-two things that need fixing from that (i.e. brake pads and fuel filter).

Mel26

sean1141 wrote: »

Forget your mechanic and take it to George. The man knows what he is talking about.
Did you take his advice and clean out the valve?

I dont know about the mk5 but the back of the ignition switch gave trouble on the mk3 and mk4s. The part for the mk4 was about 40 quid IIRC and I would think its the same as the mk5. Same type key anyway. There is a bit of work involved but nothing major. Taking off the steering wheel is the hardest part.

I took it back to the dealership I bought it from...can;t name them on here obviously but they said this to me today. The language used on the statement does not sound certain that this will fix it. My friend is good with cars so will ask him to clean out the valve if he can...I have no clue where that is located on a car! Assuming you are a mechanic does that cost approx 160euro to do that?

sean1141

Don't forget main dealers rate for labour will be a lot more than a decent independent mechanic. I think it would be an hours work or less for a good mechanic so I would say 100 for part and fitting should be reasonable (part being 40)

George Dalton

The switches are €36 + VAT. They do give a bit of trouble in them but I have never seen one give the symptoms the OP describes.

Mel26

They want to order the ignition switch tomorrow, should I decline and look for another opinion? I thought it would be something related to what everyone on here was saying, wasn't expecting ignition given it cuts out long after initial ignition too...I gave the person in the service department the answers to the questions I was asked on here, didnt speak directly to the mechanic. And I suspect that if the car gives up again after having it fixed, I will be convinced that I will have to pay for that too This place has all the proper 'diagnostics' etc so thought I would have a definite answer by now

mullingar

Mel26 wrote: »

They want to order the ignition switch tomorrow, should I decline and look for another opinion? I thought it would be something related to what everyone on here was saying, wasn't expecting ignition given it cuts out long after initial ignition too...I gave the person in the service department the answers to the questions I was asked on here, didnt speak directly to the mechanic. And I suspect that if the car gives up again after having it fixed, I will be convinced that I will have to pay for that too This place has all the proper 'diagnostics' etc so thought I would have a definite answer by now

Never assume that main dealers are the experts. There are many specialised independent garages that have the same equipment but much better mechanics.. Main dealers simply follow fault matrixes and fit parts.

Bring your car to George

Mel26

I'm based in the South East, long way from Bray where I see George is located but that said I am so tired of this now and it's interfering with my work as need to travel from clinic to clinic... Any other places in South East that would be reliable and honest (either independent mechanic or big garage I don't care)? Can give my email if it can't be discussed on boards. George, are you linked with any other garages closer to cork/waterford/wexford/tipp?

s14driftking

Mel26 wrote: »

I'm based in the South East, long way from Bray where I see George is located but that said I am so tired of this now and it's interfering with my work as need to travel from clinic to clinic... Any other places in South East that would be reliable and honest (either independent mechanic or big garage I don't care)? Can give my email if it can't be discussed on boards. George, are you linked with any other garages closer to cork/waterford/wexford/tipp?

George works from between portlaoise and abbeyleix, its about an hour from Waterford.defo worth the trip or if needs be there is another good garage in portlaoise that sorts all german cars and come well recommended from me.

Vego

Want it to stop costing you money .....sell it