Today I did some detailing...

Ah, I wouldn't be able to justify any hefty expense on them. I know I'd be likely enough to scratch them again, myself, anyway.

punisher5112

Deleted User wrote: »

Ah, I wouldn't be able to justify any hefty expense on them. I know I'd be likely enough to scratch them again, myself, anyway.

Pick up a second hand pair or as said re finish them.

Or if you are that bad move to steel wheels:D

MetzgerMeister

KKV - there's very little that can be done to alloys with a machine polisher. The paint on most alloys is very thin and there's a very real chance of going straight to the primer especially on ridges and corners. Keep the D/A well away from them. Nothing you can do about kerb damage unless you get them refurbed.

What you can do is remove them from the car, de-tar, de-iron and clean them 100%. Then apply a coat of Chemical Guys Wheel Guard and a coat of wax. Use a pH neutral wheel cleaner (and no brush) and they'll be easy to clean and keep looking well for a few months.

IK09

Deleted User wrote: »

Some excellent work there, James.


Can i ask ye guys, is there anything you can do, from a detailing standpoint, to make alloys look a bit better or undo slight damage?

The wheels on my car were never pristine, there were obvious kerbing signs, but when I recently got two new tyres on the front, the lads did a wonderful job of putting some lovely new scratches into the wheels. I didn't bother to complain as the wheels were already scratched anyway, and it was just a new place setting up, but it does annoy me a little, if I'm honest.


So was just wondering is there anything I, myself, can do, with my joe soap detailing gear? I'd like to get the wheels looking better, but not enough to the extent that I'd actually pay anyone to restore them or such (I'm as guilty of damaging the alloys as any of the previous owners, unfortunately).


I presume machine polishing the face of the wheels would be just asking for trouble, as it'd only irritate the scratches, rather than cover them up?

I got myself a nice new set of alloys a couple of weeks back as the old ones were in a bit of a state. Im going to be attempting a wheel refurb (i have never done this before), but it you seem to be the type to try anything (just like myself).

It will be a couple of weeks before I get the time to do it but it will show you if it can be done by someone who has never done it before.

Curran

If you managed to get the surface into decent shape; ie: smooth any kerbing on the edges, either by filling, sanding or both...there'd be the option of Plasti Dip them. Easy to remove and change colour if you fancy the change!

Is refurbing them a realistic option for Joe Soap, though? Car Detailing as a whole, is fairly generic and vague, and there are lots of consumer products. It's big business.

However, alloy refurbishing seems very specific, and like it'd be the kind of area that you'd need specialist tools and equipment for.

I'd happily give refurbishing them a go (even though this kinda stuff generally blows up in my face) but only if there was a realistic hope of actually getting 'as new' results for a sensible amount of expense/effort (ie; im not gonna pay twice as much as it costs, to buy the gear i'll never use again, nor will i spend a month on each wheel 'cos I'm using an ancient indian method of curing the wheel.. haha ).

MetzgerMeister

If you want to refurb them yourself for the experience, that's fine but don't expect to get "as new" results for your efforts. It's a very laborious and time-consuming job and you'll be without your car for a while.

If you want a proper job done on them (including kerb damage fully repaired) and a finish that will last, take them to Wheel Wizards in Finglas. I got mine done by them as have a few people i know and the finish is absolutely superb. It will cost you €300 - 350 for the set which includes removing and replacing tyres and balancing of the wheels afterwards which is normally €15 per wheel from a tyre fitter.

MetzgerMeister

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

If you want to refurb them yourself for the experience, that's fine but don't expect to get "as new" results for your efforts. It's a very laborious and time-consuming job and you'll be without your car for a while.

If you want a proper job done on them (including kerb damage fully repaired) and a finish that will last, take them to Wheel Wizards in Finglas. I got mine done by them as have a few people i know and the finish is absolutely superb. It will cost you €300 - 350 for the set which includes removing and replacing tyres and balancing of the wheels afterwards which is normally €15 per wheel from a tyre fitter.

I don't mind time consuming, but I don't like anything too technical that requires you to spend a fortune in the hopes that you might get rid of a scratch. I'm happy to spend a bit of time at it if it's relatively straight-forward work (tedious as it may be).


Just out of curiousity, though, is "a set" above, a set of 2 or a set of 4? (silly question, possibly).


Cheers for the help and advice though, gents. I might just have to settle for my less than perfect wheels on my less than perfect car

Curran

Set of 4!

ianobrien

I was at it again. Wash (two bucket), dry and Autoglym Rapid Detailer used to give a bit if a lift. Autoglym Fast Glass used on windows and tyre dressing also.






The car needs to be detarred but I don't have the time to polish, wax and seal afterwards.

Edit - A little game, spot the chamois.....

punisher5112

Drying in the hedge.....;)

JAMES VTI S

My van is finally ready for LSP .... that was a drag .... 😪 .... tomorrow I'll get the wheels off and prep them for LSP then do an IPA wipe down before the final step.

Theboinkmaster

ianobrien wrote: »

I was at it again. Wash (two bucket), dry and Autoglym Rapid Detailer used to give a bit if a lift. Autoglym Fast Glass used on windows and tyre dressing also.

The car needs to be detarred but I don't have the time to polish, wax and seal afterwards.

Edit - A little game, spot the chamois.....

Don't use a chamois it will scratch the surface, get a proper drying towel.

bbari

Theboinkmaster wrote: »

Don't use a chamois it will scratch the surface, get a proper drying towel.

Dry Me Crazy - Microfibre Drying Towel.
Pricey but you will start loving it from the minute you will use it the 1st time!

Mellor

Newbie detail advice guys.

Got a new car this week (well, it's 2nd hand but you get what I mean). Planning on giving it a good clean and finish, and trying to maintain that as best I can. This stuff us completely new to me, previous car was rran through the car wash, and rarely at that.
I know that to do a completely proper job, it involves de-tar, wash, rinse, clay bar, abrading compound, polish, lighter polish, sealant, wax, etc. The works.
(Apologies if I've messed up names, the order, or left anything out).

But I was hoping if somebody could give me advice on how to approach the job with as few steps as possible. Just looking for a decent finish, and when I get quicker, and more comfirtable with the process I can add in more steps and improve the finish.

In my head, I'm imaging three steps, something like;
Hand-Wash
Polish
Wax/sealant/glaze

punisher5112

Mellor wrote: »

Newbie detail advice guys.

Got a new car this week (well, it's 2nd hand but you get what I mean). Planning on giving it a good clean and finish, and trying to maintain that as best I can. This stuff us completely new to me, previous car was rran through the car wash, and rarely at that.
I know that to do a completely proper job, it involves de-tar, wash, rinse, clay bar, abrading compound, polish, lighter polish, sealant, wax, etc. The works.
(Apologies if I've messed up names, the order, or left anything out).

But I was hoping if somebody could give me advice on how to approach the job with as few steps as possible. Just looking for a decent finish, and when I get quicker, and more comfirtable with the process I can add in more steps and improve the finish.

In my head, I'm imaging three steps, something like;
Hand-Wash
Polish
Wax/sealant/glaze

Hi have you got all materials?

Wash using 2bucket method, use micro fibre cloths to wash and towels to dry.

De tar then wash again then clay. Wash again then if you have a machine get compound and get cutting in. Then clean again and polish or wax whichever you have.


There are plenty on here who know more but give a go anyway best of luck and results will be amazing.

Curran

You could wash, polish and protect but it wont look much better than just washing.

You should start be doing it right....I'd even leave a hand polish out if you want to keep it quick.

For a practically little effort...wash, de-tar (spray on, dwell, rinse off), de-iron (spray on, dwell, rinse off), qucik wash, dry, wax/sealant.

ianobrien

bbari wrote: »

Dry Me Crazy - Microfibre Drying Towel.
Pricey but you will start loving it from the minute you will use it the 1st time!

I got a drying towel (not a Dry Me Crazy one mind) and I didn't like it. it left tiny water marks and a slightly harsh finish.

My routine with the chamois is to soak it in cold clean water, squeeze to remove excess water and repeat twice. I lightly wipe the panel to remove any beaded water (never rub) and squeeze again. I'll rinse the chamois once or twice while drying the car and again when finished. I use a microfibre cloth to dry wheels and sills as these are generally the dirtiest. I start with the roof and bonnet and work both back and down. The car is never fully dry after this but it stops water marks. It has worked for me to date.

Generally after this, I go have a cup of tae and when I come out the car is dry and ready for the next step in the process.

Mellor

Curran wrote: »

For a practically little effort...wash, de-tar (spray on, dwell, rinse off), de-iron (spray on, dwell, rinse off), qucik wash, dry, wax/sealant.

Cheers that sounds alright. I've no water where the car is parked, so will be a bucket job. So something like this for de-iron http://www.waxit.com.au/collections/carpro/products/carpro-iron-ls-x-50-500-1ltr-4ltr

Any recommendation for a wax/sealant for hand applying?

Curran

Iron X, Iron Cleanse, Korrosol, D-Con, Deironizer, Purple Rain, Dragon's Breath are some of the names of fallout removers.

What colour is the car? Waxes generally look better on darker colours and sealants better on ligher colours....as a rough guide.

Mellor

Curran wrote: »

Iron X, Iron Cleanse, Korrosol, D-Con, Deironizer, Purple Rain, Dragon's Breath are some of the names of fallout removers.

What colour is the car? Waxes generally look better on darker colours and sealants better on ligher colours....as a rough guide.

It's black. Wax then?
I'm led to believe dark colours will make spotting the de-iron reaction a bit harder, but it's still happening just the same.

Curran

Yeah, most of the fallout removers will be clear liquids and they turn purple when in contact with contamination. Harder to see this against the black, but still doing the job. Simply spray on, allow it to dwell for 5 to 10 minutes and rinse off. Use it on your wheels too; you'll see it reacting there.

Traditionally waxes look better on darker colours as they give a warmer, wet look. Sealants better on lighter colours as its hard to get a wet look on those colours and sealants give a sharper, and glassier finish. Sealants are generally more durable than waxes, but there are a waxes available that are quite durable.

From the website you linked, Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is a good choice; quite durable, will look good and good value for money.

Mellor

Thanks for the help,

Mc Love

Interesting you say sealants last longer and give a glassier finish - any suggestions?

Curran

If you are looking for a run of the mill type sealant, then Chemical Guys JetSeal109 isnt a bad choice.
But if you wanted something very long lasting, and glassy, then a nano sealant is the choice - something like Car Pro Cquartz, gtechniq's EXO or C1, Wolf' Chemical's Body Guard or Hard Body.

The nano sealants will be a lot less in volume for the same price as a regular bottle of JetSeal109 for example, but when you get 1.5 - 2 years of protection from them; they represent good value. All nano sealants need good preparation pre-application, and certain nano sealants need strict environments to cure correctly (such as controlled temperatures), but others are not so difficult to apply.

Mc Love

That Jetseal looks quite handy. Just watched a video on it. But then I saw blacklight mentioned, would it be better to get BL if I drive black car?

MetzgerMeister

Blacklight is more of a swirl mark filler so that's how it deepens the gloss on black cars. You're better off to go with the combination of Jetseal and Collinite 845 if it's protection you're after.

Curran

Blacklight is a bit of an in-between product. Some people consider it as protection; I wouldnt really, as its not overly durable on its own. I would consider it more like a glaze, with a bit of protection in it. It will give an added wet look, gloss and shine, while also helping to hide some lighter defects in the paintwork. Combo'd with JetSeal109, it will be pretty good. But as with any layered products, its only as good as its weakest link, and the Blacklight will effect the JetSeal's performance. Still would expect a few months protection if the both were combo'd.

vectra

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Blacklight is more of a swirl mark filler so that's how it deepens the gloss on black cars. You're better off to go with the combination of Jetseal and Collinite 845 if it's protection you're after.

While the above is correct, You will lessen the durability of the 845 if used on top of anything else.
845 works best on bare paint.

MetzgerMeister

I find that if you let the Jetseal cure properly after buffing for an hour and then apply your 845, it lasts longer than 845 on its own.