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"The Project" trying to save a Lugged Steel Frame

  • 14-06-2013 4:34pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭


    Hey lads.

    So I've just today come into possession of a late 80's raleigh steel framed bike.

    I think she's lovely, really nice lugging brazing and in pretty decent nick over all, but probably in need of stripping and re-spraying.

    I also need to get new calipers and new levers, new cables all round, new pedals and top strip the drive train and shifters and give it all a good clean up.

    Thinking I'll unbuild the wheels, polish and tidy up the rims and hubs and then re-thread them with new spokes and they need to clean up and some of the spokes are pretty loose anyway.

    So if anyone has any recommendations of where to pick up parts or how to strip and clean it or even how to strip the pains myself and get rid of the surface rust what would be awesome.

    Anyway enough of my rambling.

    Meet "The Project"

    1017454_10151662571371294_230768522_n.jpg

    pic2
    pic3
    pic4
    pic5
    pic6
    pic7
    pic8


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭vektarman


    If they're maillard skewers then I saw them on Ebay.fr recently for about €12, which seemed good value. Nice bike btw.
    http://www.ebay.fr/itm/BLOQUAGE-DE-ROUES-RAPIDE-SACHS-MAILLARD-3240-/380553700272?pt=FR_JG_Sports_Cyclisme_&hash=item589ac4a3b0


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭vektarman


    I forgot to add, I used nitromors and a very fine steel wool to strip the paint, it's slow and time consuming but fine if you're not in a hurry, the important thing is to remove every trace of the old paint or it reacts and causes bubbles when it's repainted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    retrobike forum should have a lot of info on restoring it. Very nice bike. Well wear!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭cyclic


    It's (deceptively) going to cost you the price of that new bike you really want. Rothar it.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    cyclic wrote: »
    It's (deceptively) going to cost you the price of that new bike you really want. Rothar it.

    Well im planning on stripping and respraying it myself. So thats just the cost of paint, wire wool and stripper and my time. Ill sourse the calipers from an lbs here that has a room full of old parts. Same for the levers maybe. then its just spokes. Im hoping to just polish.up the rest and get rid of surface rust. Also, it will be drips and drabs rather than a big chunk of cash so be handier for me.

    And I just really like the lugging and brazing on the frame and forks!!!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 414 ✭✭LennoxR


    It'll be worth it. I really like those old steel racing bikes personally. There's a lot to be said for steel - takes the bumps out of the roads in a way that the modern lightweight alloys don't.

    Had one myself, an old Peugeot but it was stolen near the train station in Galway many moons ago.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,867 ✭✭✭Tonyandthewhale


    You might end up spending as much as you would for a modern steel framed bike but whereas saving up for a new steel bike means sitting around waiting for money to pile up. Restoring an old bike means putting a little money in to get it back on the road, playing with it for a little while, putting some more money in and playing with a slightly nicer version of it for a little while, putting some more money in and so on - a highly worthwhile way to spend your money I reckon.
    Furthermore, if you have patience and you know what you're doing (and it sounds like you have and you do) you can get away with spending feck all money on it.

    Are you going rattlecan it or get it powdercoated or something? And are those steel rims or alloys? I've never had any love for steel rims. I reckon a rebuild with alloys is worth it if they are steel and you plan on braking and the like.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,874 ✭✭✭Zyzz


    thumbs-up.gif


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    You might end up spending as much as you would for a modern steel framed bike but whereas saving up for a new steel bike means sitting around waiting for money to pile up. Restoring an old bike means putting a little money in to get it back on the road, playing with it for a little while, putting some more money in and playing with a slightly nicer version of it for a little while, putting some more money in and so on - a highly worthwhile way to spend your money I reckon.
    Furthermore, if you have patience and you know what you're doing (and it sounds like you have and you do) you can get away with spending feck all money on it.

    Are you going rattlecan it or get it powdercoated or something? And are those steel rims or alloys? I've never had any love for steel rims. I reckon a rebuild with alloys is worth it if they are steel and you plan on braking and the like.


    They are steel rims and to be honest they are rusted to feck, I might just try pick up a cheap pair of alloy rims. I'm going to go part hunting in that shop I mentioned earlier and see if I can find something. I don't know if it's worth my while trying to get rid of the rust on the rims and servicing the hubs and then re-lacing with new spokes, might just be way too much effort but sure I'll see what happens. First things first I need to figure out what tools I need to disassemble the frame and components fully and then clean them up piece by piece.


    As for paint, I'm thinking of doing the rattle can in hot water trick to increase pressure in the can and make the coat more even but not really set on anything, I just want a decent end result for as little money as possible.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    I've stripped three frames at this stage using nitromors, steel wool and sandpaper. I've only lacquered the raw steel on one so far. If you can find somewhere to sandblast it I'd go that route for budget and time and mess.

    It took almost three of the small tubs of nitromors to do the benotto. The spray actually strips better but the delivery system clogs up after a few sprays. I may not have been super efficient with the nitro but its a very labour some job and I guarantee you'll have nightmares trying to get the paint out of the lug brazing.

    Paint yourself, but get someone else to strip it?


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh



    Paint yourself, but get someone else to strip it?


    Just found a place in Galway that *might* be able to sandblast and powder coat it for me for not too much money. I have to bring the frame out to them and let them have a look before they will commit to it.

    This might be a much better idea.

    Might see if they will do the rims and the bits of the headset with rust too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    I used Strypit instead of Nitromors, and I highly recommend Jenolite as a rust killer.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    Right, so, I've finally got a bit of spare time until the end of this month so going to lash into this and get the frame stripped and ready to be sand blasted and powder coated.

    I now have 2 dilemma:

    1) I don't have the tools needed to remove the cranks, headset, bottom bracket, etc.

    2) I have to decide what colour to powder coat it.


    Anyone in or around Galway wanna loan me some tools for a few hours?

    Anyone have any ideas on colours? I was thinking of getting something distinctive so that it would be easier to find if it's nicked, but not sure if that's a good idea and maybe I should just go with a matt black or something...


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    vektarman wrote: »
    I forgot to add, I used nitromors and a very fine steel wool to strip the paint, it's slow and time consuming but fine if you're not in a hurry, the important thing is to remove every trace of the old paint or it reacts and causes bubbles when it's repainted.

    How much nitromors did you need to strip the frame? two bottles?

    I only seem to see the 275ml bottles anywhere I've looked... Seeing as I have time, this would save me some money on sandblasting it...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    Seaneh wrote: »
    How much nitromors did you need to strip the frame? two bottles?..

    None! One bottle of Strypit will easily do a few frames!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    gman2k wrote: »
    None! One bottle of Strypit will easily do a few frames!

    Where can you get it? How much does a bottle cost?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    Actually, feck that, I'm going to go with the sand blasting and powder coat.

    They have to bead blast it to get the powder coat to bond properly anyway so I might as well let them do the lot.


    From what I can find online Powder coating seems like it's far more durable than wet paint and will stand up to being the conditions in Ireland a lot better.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,625 ✭✭✭happytramp


    Seaneh wrote: »
    Actually, feck that, I'm going to go with the sand blasting and powder coat.

    They have to bead blast it to get the powder coat to bond properly anyway so I might as well let them do the lot.


    From what I can find online Powder coating seems like it's far more durable than wet paint and will stand up to being the conditions in Ireland a lot better.

    This is definitely the right decision... for so many reasons.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,740 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Won't be able to have it properly powder coated unless it's sand blasted or you've taken nearly a layer of the steel off, otherwise there'll be remaints of the old paint. Much better off getting it properly powder coated too as rattle-canning can be messy and time consuming, and frustrating of course. Light coat after light coat, with 24 hours of drying between, and then lacquering.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 926 ✭✭✭G rock


    Pink.

    You know you want to


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,192 ✭✭✭Quigs Snr


    Classic. Late 80's, maybe 87/88 Raleigh Pursuit. They were above the bog standard Banana, flyer, winner, equipe etc.. but below the record sprint, Elan and maybe the criterium. Always the classiest most understated of that era's lineup I though. Shame you can't restore to original (although that would be a real labour of love.. the bike would have cost about 250 pounds back then and would cost more now to respray).

    I am restoring a vintage colnago at the moment and Nitromoors does work, but perhaps not as well as I thought it would. It took a 200ml bottle to do the rear triangle and to be honest the paint didn't exactly fall off although it got there in the end.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    G rock wrote: »
    Pink.

    You know you want to

    I was actually thinking Pink or purple or something.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,429 ✭✭✭✭endacl


    Seaneh wrote: »
    They are steel rims and to be honest they are rusted to feck, I might just try pick up a cheap pair of alloy rims. I'm going to go part hunting in that shop I mentioned earlier and see if I can find something. I don't know if it's worth my while trying to get rid of the rust on the rims and servicing the hubs and then re-lacing with new spokes, might just be way too much effort but sure I'll see what happens. First things first I need to figure out what tools I need to disassemble the frame and components fully and then clean them up piece by piece.


    As for paint, I'm thinking of doing the rattle can in hot water trick to increase pressure in the can and make the coat more even but not really set on anything, I just want a decent end result for as little money as possible.

    Swirl it! Always thought that'd look great on a frame.

    http://youtu.be/rmSV2l6JFt0


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    Quigs Snr wrote: »
    Classic. Late 80's, maybe 87/88 Raleigh Pursuit. They were above the bog standard Banana, flyer, winner, equipe etc.. but below the record sprint, Elan and maybe the criterium. Always the classiest most understated of that era's lineup I though. Shame you can't restore to original (although that would be a real labour of love.. the bike would have cost about 250 pounds back then and would cost more now to respray).

    I am restoring a vintage colnago at the moment and Nitromoors does work, but perhaps not as well as I thought it would. It took a 200ml bottle to do the rear triangle and to be honest the paint didn't exactly fall off although it got there in the end.


    Well sandblasting and powdercoating is going to cost me about €90 so I think it's worth doing as I want to get the best jobe done possible.

    I'm going to keep the original shifters, front mech, stem, bars, cranks and maybe the chain and cassete, going to polish them all up and see what state they are in. hoping I can sace the wheels but they look like a lost cause to be honest, the spokes are very loose and rims are covered in crap and rust spots so might see what I can pick up elsewhere. I want to spend as little as possible but I also want to do a good job on it, have even considered buying raleigh stickers and re-branding it but can't find pursuit stickers anywhere.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    what parts do you need.;)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    what parts do you need.;)

    Wheels, skewers, break levers, breaks, a headset and a saddle, think that's about it is I keep the other stuff.

    I have no fecking clue where to look for this stuff btw, was going to go to "On your bike" in Galway because they have a fecking house load of old bikes and parts for me to rummage through and I might be able to get a good deal.

    I'll probably change the rear mech too, the current one is a POS shimano tourney and I'd rather get something a little nicer but still in character.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    Oh, and obviously cables and housing, but that's easy stuff.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    I'll have a look in the spares box see if i can helpout..

    i'll be back.;)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    Schweet!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    ok just pulled the shed apart,i have a lovely crankset square taper perfect nick just needs a good polishing 52 48 rings 170 cranks.
    ita a Gipiemme quality stuff boy.
    rear mech is shimano RSX perfect
    i have one 105 sti 9 speed leaver cant fine other or i have a pair of sora 7 speed sti need a bit of paint but they work fine.
    break calibers no idea what brand but again they look fine.
    thats it cant help with wheels or cables;)
    if you want that lot there yours only problem i live in drogheda so if you can find someone to collect your more than welcome to them.
    cheers
    FSL.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    I'd be interested in the callipers and and maybe the RSX but not sure how it will work with 5 speed friction downtube shifters!

    The cranks sound lovely, would be a step up from the "Custom" branded ones on the bike atm anyway, would they be 5 speed compatible?

    And I'll be moving to Dublin in a few weeks so I could always hop on the train and pick them up from you, student return is feck all so would be well worth my while.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    yeah no worries just let me know when your around and i'll have them all ready for you.remember there used parts so dont be expecting GOLD but they will get you on the road no problem.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 468 ✭✭VanhireBoys


    This project is looking really good - well done... !

    There is sommit regal about an old steelie .. ! Simple pure lines !

    Doing it all yourself is an education !


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    meant to say i'll show you my 28 year old raleigh lugged frame a think of beauti.;) 753 special.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    meant to say i'll show you my 28 year old raleigh lugged frame a think of beauti.;) 753 special.

    You'll be giving me bike envy, mine isn't even reynolds tubing I don't think!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    Seaneh wrote: »
    You'll be giving me bike envy, mine isn't even reynolds tubing I don't think!
    i would say its 531 reynolds you should try and find out it's history.
    when you spraying it make sure to coat the inside with FRAME SAVER.
    if it came from the specialist part of the raleigh factory you have a pure gem all hand made by experts.:cool:


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    i would say its 531 reynolds you should try and find out it's history.
    when you spraying it make sure to coat the inside with FRAME SAVER.
    if it came from the specialist part of the raleigh factory you have a pure gem all hand made by experts.:cool:

    I don't know if the Pursuits were that high end, I can't find any numbers on it to check the year it was made etc but it "looks" hand made in that it's lugged and brazed and looks lovely.

    I think I read somewhere that the tubing came from a company called TI who raleigh owned.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    lenny gave you a link to retrobike forum those guys will tell you exactly were that bike was made.
    anyway no matter a lugged frame is a lovely bike to ride mine is as good as the day it was made super comfy not as quick but thats down to the pilot i'm afraid.:D:D
    there a firm in tallagh that sprays bikes might be worth checking them out .


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    lenny gave you a link to retrobike forum those guys will tell you exactly were that bike was made.
    anyway no matter a lugged frame is a lovely bike to ride mine is as good as the day it was made super comfy not as quick but thats down to the pilot i'm afraid.:D:D
    there a firm in tallagh that sprays bikes might be worth checking them out .

    That's where I got the quote for €90 from and seeing as I'm moving to Dublin soon anyway I'm going to get it down with them, they seem to have good experience with doing bikes too.

    They lads in galway (radfix) said they can do it but I have yet to get them to give me a quote!


    Oh and it was the retrobike forum where I *think* I read that about the tubing.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    most defo get it done by experts it will be well worth it believe me.

    evey one thinks they can paint, they can't honest thats the reason i'm out of work. get the experts to paint the bike even at 100 its gonna be worth it.;)


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    Eeeek, Right, from Retrobike and more digging I found a thread with a bike with the exact same decals and cranks, bars etc and he dated his to 1987 and made in Nottingham, so hurrah for that!

    Still can't figure out what tubing it is.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    bet its 531 mine is 753.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 562 ✭✭✭sbs2010


    Man I love this old bike sh*t.

    I can give you a half decent 27.2 mm seat post and one of these -

    http://www.sellesanmarco.it/en/Vintage/Saddles/226/Regal%20Titanium.html

    It's a nice retro saddle just never suited my arse and is now sitting in the shed.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    Eeeek, sure let me know now much you would want for the saddle and seatpost and I'll have a think about it :)

    Lovely saddle


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 562 ✭✭✭sbs2010


    Seaneh wrote: »
    Eeeek, sure let me know now much you would want for the saddle and seatpost and I'll have a think about it :)

    Lovely saddle

    Take em for free on two conditions -

    You let me see your frame sometime once it's powder coated - I did a nitromors and spray can job on mine. It worked out ok but not great and always wondered what the powder coating would turn out like.

    And if the saddle doesn't suit, pass it on for free yourself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭vektarman


    Seaneh wrote: »
    I was actually thinking Pink or purple or something.
    If you want to go the whole hog and use Raleigh colours, here's the paint codes for purple (ultra violet) and pink, it's from their chopper range a decade earlier than the pursuit, nice colours btw as I have both colour 70's choppers :).


    http://raleigh-chopper-net.tripod.com/Raleigh_Chopper_Colours.htm


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭vektarman


    Seaneh wrote: »
    You'll be giving me bike envy, mine isn't even reynolds tubing I don't think!

    Pic 7 on post 1, I can make out a 3 on the bottom of the seat tube decal, if the rest of it is 75 then a Reynolds 753 is a nice collectors bike.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,889 ✭✭✭feck sake lads


    the lugs on mine 753 are different and the cable runs are on top of bottom bracket shell, so i'm still guessing its 531.
    bit concerned about that rust spot on chain stays hopefully its only surace rust.:eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    vektarman wrote: »
    Pic 7 on post 1, I can make out a 3 on the bottom of the seat tube decal, if the rest of it is 75 then a Reynolds 753 is a nice collectors bike.

    I would be guessing that's the frame size, i.e. - 23". Based on Quis's earlier post the Banana had steel tubing and the Sprint and Elan had 501 tubing [If memory serves me correctly] so at most I'd guess this would have 501 tubing. However due to the condition of the other decals if there is no Reynolds decal on it then I'd take it as been steel.

    One of the first bikes I sprayed was my old Banana and I used an electric sander which broke my soul and the lugs were near impossible to sand smooth so getting it sand blasted would be the way I'd go. Due to the rust though you should see about sanding them areas yourself to see the condition before committing too much.

    Removing the headset from a steel frame is handy enough, you need something like a 3/4 inch pipe and a hammer and then gently tap the cups outta the frame by feeding the pipe through the headtube to access the back of the cup[side inserted into frame], just rotate regularly so your working it off as evenly as possible. On the fork then again tap the crown race off from the bottom, again working your way around to remove as evenly as possible.

    I used to have the tools to remove the cranks and bottom bracket so will check the old toolbox in my parents, so long as nothing is too heavily rusted I can more then likely remove them for you in a few minutes. With all the different types of BB's coming to market over the years I never replaced old tooling as no longer required so hopefully some of the old tools are still there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,625 ✭✭✭happytramp


    I would have thought from the fact that the dropouts are stamped not forged that it's not made from reynolds tubing but Hi-tensile steel. Not a 'high end' bike but still a nice one and a good project nonetheless.

    Here's a handy guide for restoring the alloy parts, Brakes, Levers, crank, stem etc

    See post 38
    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/259766-Do-It-Yourself-(DIY)?p=3677840&viewfull=1#post3677840


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