new battery tilt and trim work but boat wont start

Fe1exams

boat engine wont start.
ive 4 cables
- big black
- big red
-small green
-small black

new battery
tilt and trim work
no clicking over

-on old battery it did click and turn over but battery goosed got it checked and one of the cells is dead- any ideas please

also engine in a small bucket full of water covering the 8 small inlet holes on either side..where the manual states is the intake for water.. i was thinking maybe the buckets too small

fergal.b

Hi Fe1exams, the water in the bucket won't stop the engine from starting so I would check all the connections and make sure you have a good earth also check to see if the two batteries have the same amp's and that the new one is fully charged.
Make sure the engine is in neutral and the kill cord is in place.





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Fe1exams

does the tilt have to be fully down to engage the engine?

-battery is full i assume as it is brand spanking new (the tilt and trim are fine)
-battery is the same as old one

i think the earth ius the small black cable and when it touches the plus it sparks

fergal.b

If it's an outdrive it should be fully down but I take it you are talking about an outboard so it shouldn't mater.
What make, year and hp is the engine.



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Fe1exams

Its an outboard 115 merc 2008 optimax
it did click over 2 days ago with the old battery so not sure why it wont now.. the manual does say dont use wing nuts and use a marine battery.... i dont think its that though tbh


TROUBLESHOOTING
eng
115
Starter Motor Will Not Crank the Engine
POSSIBLE CAUSES
• Blown 20‑amp fuse in the starting circuit. Refer to
Maintenance
.
• Outboard is not shifted to neutral position.
• Weak battery or battery connections are loose or corroded.
• Ignition key switch failure.
• Wiring or electrical connection faulty.
• Starter motor solenoid or slave solenoid failure.
Engine Will Not Start
POSSIBLE CAUSES
• Lanyard stop switch not in "RUN" position.
• Battery not fully charged.
•
Incorrect starting procedure. Refer to
Operation
section.
• Old or contaminated fuel.
• Fuel is not reaching the engine.
• Fuel tank is empty.
• Fuel tank vent not open or restricted.
• Fuel line is disconnected or kinked.
• Primer bulb not squeezed.
• Primer bulb check valve is faulty.
•
Fuel filter is obstructed. Refer to
Maintenance
section.
• Fuel pump failure.
• Fuel tank filter obstructed.
•
Open 20‑amp fuse. Check fuses, refer to
Maintenance
section.
• Threaded connection of an air hose is loose.
• Ignition system component failure.
•
Spark plugs fouled or defective. Refer to
Maintenance
section

fergal.b

Nice engine Can you connect up the old battery and see if it still clicks and turns over , the new battery might be a dud.

I'm not very good with newer engines "too many computers" but this link might help http://www.justanswer.com/boat/52v5w-i-ve-mercury-115-optimax-bentley-pontoon-boat.html



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Fe1exams

fergal.b wrote: »

Nice engine Can you connect up the old battery and see if it still clicks and turns over , the new battery might be a dud.

I'm not very good with newer engines "too many computers" but this link might help http://www.justanswer.com/boat/52v5w-i-ve-mercury-115-optimax-bentley-pontoon-boat.html



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Thanks

Id like to bring it right back to basics.

red - positive
black - negative

I have two hooped rings a green and a black.... (i assume there for the fish finder and vhf?
or
How does the ignition switch work - is it a green or black wire that connects to the battery

fergal.b

In the link I posted one of the black wires is a positive :eek: so you better double check to be sure.





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Fe1exams

fergal.b wrote: »

In the link I posted one of the black wires is a positive :eek: so you better double check to be sure.





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i think thats cause he had it ass ways

my bulb is not seeming to work that well - it primes the fuel - but its not working properly.... please god my mechanic calls tomorrow who can shed some light on it - if i were a betting man id say i fried something with all the fecking around

fergal.b

You should be fine there are plenty fuses to fry before you do any damage, can you hear the fuel pump running when the ignition is on.
On a lot of engines the green is the live from the ignition and is only on when the key is turned full on as soon as the key is released the power is cut, there is also a permeant live and earth on the starter.


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moonshadow

Do you have the kill cord connected ?

Fe1exams

moonshadow wrote: »

Do you have the kill cord connected ?

the tilt and trim wouldnt work withe the keys in it and the kill cord in... the kill cord was off and the keys out of engine then the tilt and trim did work... bizare - i wonder is it the kill cord switch - i could try it with the kill switch off... the mechanic said the power is getting to the starter but not the solenoid... the conclusion is to link it up to the comp for a whopping 250 min fee.... agggggghhh

would no power to the solenoid hint a failiure of the kill switch - as i say the starter has power to it

fergal.b

You could get a bit of wire and connect it to +on the battery then just tip it off where the wire connects to the solenoid this should turn over the engine, it's not the best way of doing things and I don't want to recommend you do it "I have to cover myself" if the engine does turn over then the fault is somewhere between the wire,kill switch or ignition switch.




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Fe1exams

fergal.b wrote: »

You could get a bit of wire and connect it to +on the battery then just tip it off where the wire connects to the solenoid this should turn over the engine, it's not the best way of doing things and I don't want to recommend you do it "I have to cover myself" if the engine does turn over then the fault is somewhere between the wire,kill switch or ignition switch.




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Thats very tempting - could it blow the cpu unit?

fergal.b

That wire goes live when you turn the key full on and then springs back to turn it off, in the old days we used to use a screwdriver and jump it off the main live on the starter it shouldn't have anything to do with any other electrics.

breghall

fergal.b wrote: »

You could get a bit of wire and connect it to +on the battery then just tip it off where the wire connects to the solenoid this should turn over the engine, it's not the best way of doing things and I don't want to recommend you do it "I have to cover myself" if the engine does turn over then the fault is somewhere between the wire,kill switch or ignition switch. .

+1 on fergals tip...

If that doesn't work then it can be narrowed down a bit more.

Fe1exams

breghall wrote: »

+1 on fergals tip...

If that doesn't work then it can be narrowed down a bit more.

any newly qual students around cork need some experience or willing to give a ahand - i can tow the boat anyway

breghall

Do the test all it does is check the starter/ solenoid combo and rules out electrical from the remote box to the starter... if it doesn't work then you know you've probably bigger issues as kill switch failures can usually be traced back to bad power packs.

Fe1exams

breghall wrote: »

Do the test all it does is check the starter/ solenoid combo and rules out electrical from the remote box to the starter... if it doesn't work then you know you've probably bigger issues as kill switch failures can usually be traced back to bad power packs.

Issue resolved:
- Large amp fuse on one side of the engine (the first mechanic looked at the fuse box on the right hand side only)
- Battery isolator - corroded salt water - design fault due to poor positioning

Question:
Would 90 euros be considered extortionate for a single fuse? i think it was a 90 or 300 amp cant rememeber - any cheap place online to get thesae fuses

fergal.b

Do you have a name or number off the fuse.




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breghall

Fe1exams wrote: »

Issue resolved:
- Large amp fuse on one side of the engine (the first mechanic looked at the fuse box on the right hand side only)
- Battery isolator - corroded salt water - design fault due to poor positioning

Question:
Would 90 euros be considered extortionate for a single fuse? i think it was a 90 or 300 amp cant rememeber - any cheap place online to get thesae fuses

Sounds like your main fuse as the engine won't turn over. For most engines its just be 20 amp regular fuse .... 30c not 90 euro...

fergal.b

There is a high amp fuse normally about 100a that stops the alternator from getting fried if the battery wires are ever crossed and these can cost a few quid as some are built into the live wire and some are boxed.




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breghall

fergal.b wrote: »

There is a high amp fuse normally about 100a that stops the alternator from getting fried if the battery wires are ever crossed and these can cost a few quid as some are built into the live wire and some are boxed.




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Thought of that , but wouldn't that just effect the charging of the battery? It should still turn over with that wire broken no???

fergal.b

Like I said I'm not very up to speed on these hi tech engines but going back to basics an alternator needs a burst of power to get it to work and this power is normally taken from the starter motor in turn over mode so there could be some connection depending where the fuse is in the scheme of things.:)







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