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Aga-T+ positive post hot spot/popping.

  • 10-02-2013 6:37pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭


    I've just had 5 coils in a row pop at the bridge to the top post on this thing.

    First coil was fine for a while, but developed a little hot spot, again at the bridge, that I couldn't shift.

    Using 0.20 kanthal to make the coil 4 or 5 turns on the vamo at 3.0v to slowly pulse it, ss wick well oxidised etc.

    The rage is slowly building.

    Help! please help!


«13

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 569 ✭✭✭superneat


    Don't think it comes out in the pic, but my last wick was pulled in really close the the post. There is quite the gap between a straight wick and the post, so try pulling it in closer, it can be touching no bother.

    IMG_0249.JPG


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Push wick as close to the post as can be.

    Double back some of the wire and twist it together tightly from the top coil to positive post.

    Or wait until the end of next week for your NR Wire.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    I think those Aga coils get messed up easily by screwing the battery on and off. The centre post is kind of floating and can be pushed up thereby unsettling the coil on the wick. That's why the coil might be fine one minute then a hotspot a few hours later. Could be wrong though I suppose!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    Aye, tried having it very close to the post, looking at your pic, it seems different somehow...

    Did you mirror/flip your pic after it was taken? My wick hole (snigger) and the little post with the screw in it are reversed compared to your pic!

    grindle, waiting eh? :D I might try the twist in it at the top on the next one. Will grab a camera and post a pic of the effort.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Good point.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    I think those Aga coils get messed up easily by screwing the battery on and off. The centre post is kind of floating and can be pushed up thereby unsettling the coil on the wick. That's why the coil might be fine one minute then a hotspot a few hours later. Could be wrong though I suppose!

    That gives me an idea, the coils I made all popped really quickly, it might be the batteries, using the stacked aw 18350's. Will try with an efest 18650 instead.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Are you testing at the lowest voltage?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    3.0V, anything more than a 1 second press pops them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 339 ✭✭Bubba9


    I used to have major problems too with the AGA and the top coil hotspot but got some ribbon kanthal and it solves the problem. Vaping great now


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    I haven't had any luck setting up my AGA-T, hotspots, no wicking, seriously frustrating...:mad:

    Couple of questions - do you need to leave the filler screw off for it to wick properly? How important is it to completely oxidise the mesh, I don't have a blowtorch but have been doing it with a lighter.

    When I test the resistance it jumps all over the place, one minute it's 2, then 1.4 then less than 1 etc., how is this happening?

    Also I lost one of the centre post screws, is there any reason you need 3? Any idea where I can get another one?

    I'm taking a break from it as it was doing my head in, I'm out of mesh and nearly out of wire as well (until grindle's order comes through).

    What's NR wire btw, no resistance wire?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    rickyjb wrote: »
    Couple of questions - do you need to leave the filler screw off for it to wick properly?
    If the wick is thick enough that no air can get into or out of the tank, wicking will be slower with the screw left in.
    rickyjb wrote: »
    How important is it to completely oxidise the mesh, I don't have a blowtorch but have been doing it with a lighter.
    Just oxidising the part/s that might touch the tank body or the coil is all that's important.
    rickyjb wrote: »
    When I test the resistance it jumps all over the place, one minute it's 2, then 1.4 then less than 1 etc., how is this happening?
    Shorts. The wick either wasn't oxidised or too much pressure was applied when wrapping wire to wick and cut through the oxidation.
    rickyjb wrote: »
    Also I lost one of the centre post screws, is there any reason you need 3? Any idea where I can get another one?
    The smallest is used to keep the silicon grommet at the bottom stable, prevents leaks, the other two are what keeps your wire in position.
    No idea where you can get them.
    rickyjb wrote: »
    I'm taking a break from it as it was doing my head in, I'm out of mesh and nearly out of wire as well (until grindle's order comes through).
    You are an absolute lunatic if you've been throwing your mesh away. Lunatic. Not even a little bit joking.
    rickyjb wrote: »
    What's NR wire btw, no resistance wire?
    NR wire, yup. For example, if you were to use NR wire from the top coil to the positive post there's zero chance of a hotspot forming there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    Okay tried another couple.

    The first had a twisted bridge back to the post from the end of the top coil, popped right where the twisted wire began.

    The second was a coil made entirely of twisted wire, which had the same bridge hot spot problem, didn't pop, but had silly low resistance, 0.8Ω, wouldn't fire on the vamo, had to try it on a twist. Very strange to see the bridge lit up bright orange on twisted wire! Would need more than 3 wraps to get right, maybe 5 or even 6 if I could fit it.

    One last go...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,096 ✭✭✭Mr. Chrome


    rickyjb wrote: »
    I haven't had any luck setting up my AGA-T, hotspots, no wicking, seriously frustrating...:mad:

    Couple of questions - do you need to leave the filler screw off for it to wick properly? How important is it to completely oxidise the mesh, I don't have a blowtorch but have been doing it with a lighter.

    When I test the resistance it jumps all over the place, one minute it's 2, then 1.4 then less than 1 etc., how is this happening?

    Also I lost one of the centre post screws, is there any reason you need 3? Any idea where I can get another one?

    I'm taking a break from it as it was doing my head in, I'm out of mesh and nearly out of wire as well (until grindle's order comes through).

    What's NR wire btw, no resistance wire?
    I dont rebuild but from what I can gather from YouTube you have to leave out the filling screw for decent wicking.
    Try vaporgear in the UK for aga parts, he strips them down and sells parts seperatly, he is sound to deal with, he will answer any questions if you email him but delivery takes a week, delivery is free with orders over 10 stg.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭heliguyheliguy


    Lucutus wrote: »
    Okay tried another couple.

    The first had a twisted bridge back to the post from the end of the top coil, popped right where the twisted wire began.

    The second was a coil made entirely of twisted wire, which had the same bridge hot spot problem, didn't pop, but had silly low resistance, 0.8Ω, wouldn't fire on the vamo, had to try it on a twist. Very strange to see the bridge lit up bright orange on twisted wire! Would need more than 3 wraps to get right, maybe 5 or even 6 if I could fit it.

    One last go...

    it sounds like you wick is not oxidized.
    That would explain the constant hotspots and burnouts.
    how are you oxidizing the wick?
    have you tried the drill bit method?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    Good call, however, tis well oxidized, blowtorch used.

    Here's the last one for the evening, straight up, close to the post as I could make it comfortably...

    JB9vgFQ.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,096 ✭✭✭Mr. Chrome


    Mr. Chrome wrote: »
    I dont rebuild but from what I can gather from YouTube you have to leave out the filling screw for decent wicking.
    Try vaporgear in the UK for aga parts, he strips them down and sells parts seperatly, he is sound to deal with, he will answer any questions if you email him but delivery takes a week, delivery is free with orders over 10 stg.
    Sorry ricky, that should have said vapegear, not vaporgear, bloody hangover!!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    grindle wrote: »
    If the wick is thick enough that no air can get into or out of the tank, wicking will be slower with the screw left in.

    Just oxidising the part/s that might touch the tank body or the coil is all that's important.

    Shorts. The wick either wasn't oxidised or too much pressure was applied when wrapping wire to wick and cut through the oxidation.

    The smallest is used to keep the silicon grommet at the bottom stable, prevents leaks, the other two are what keeps your wire in position.
    No idea where you can get them.

    You are an absolute lunatic if you've been throwing your mesh away. Lunatic. Not even a little bit joking.

    NR wire, yup. For example, if you were to use NR wire from the top coil to the positive post there's zero chance of a hotspot forming there.

    I haven't thown them away I still have them but I was planning on making a new one when I get a blowtorch. Only got a small amount with the AGA. I was thinking that rolling them and unrolling them could affect the wicking (that probably doesn't make sense, I know).

    Too much pressure when wrapping the coil could've been my problem, I was putting a lot of pressure on it trying to get it closer to the middle post. Why is the gap so bloody big.

    Tried making a silica U-wick but they just burn instantly, didn't seem to be wicking at all even though I had the filler screw out. The thoughts of sitting down with the f***ing thing again....

    The RDA is so much more straight forward, 5 wraps with twisted wire, 1.4 ohms and no hotspots or burning. Great flavour and nic hit from it. So much so 12 mg is seeming a bit strong after using Kangers and Boges. Have to stop putting in 10-12 drops and chain vaping it away just so i can try a different flavour:)

    Is the AGA really worth all the extra hassle? Maybe it's a case of just getting it working once and it's easy get it right all the time. Won't be happening tonight though...


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 23,556 ✭✭✭✭Sir Digby Chicken Caesar


    you could try a mesh wick in the RDA, will give you an idea of the flavour you get from a mesh setup


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭heliguyheliguy


    Lucutus wrote: »
    Good call, however, tis well oxidized, blowtorch used.

    Here's the last one for the evening, straight up, close to the post as I could make it comfortably...

    JB9vgFQ.png

    What your seeing is the result of the power flowing through the wick material; which has very little resistance, thus all the energy is dissipated in that short hop to the centre post. this also explains the very low resistance your seeing it is effectively using the wick as a ground post.

    The drill bit method will allow you to oxidise the coil and so reduce the chance of shorting and or re-examine your wick oxidizing method its not as simple as just heat it glowing red and your done. I often find the need to heat several times and then set it on fire with e-liquid on.

    if you tell us more about your methods, it might be easier to help :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    Mr. Chrome wrote: »
    Sorry ricky, that should have said vapegear, not vaporgear, bloody hangover!!!!

    Thanks for that, he's selling centre post nuts which I think is what I need. 5 pounds postage is a bit steep though, if anybody else needs anything from that site let me know.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    Ah, yes, just what you've mentioned heli:
    1. cut and roll wick
    2. heat with torch to red glow
    3. air cool
    4. heat with torch to red glow
    5. air cool
    6. heat with torch to red glow
    7. air cool
    8. heat with torch to red glow
    9. air cool
    10. heat with torch to red glow
    11. air cool
    12. heat with torch to red glow
    13. air cool
    14. place 5 drops of juice on the top of wick (where coil will be)
    15. burn off
    16. place in AGA-T+
    17. wrap wire around lower screw and fix in place.
    18. wrap wire around 4 times to make coil
    19. fix in place to top post
    20. test on 3.0V
    21. note hot spot on bridge
    22. rage


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    Lucutus wrote: »
    Good call, however, tis well oxidized, blowtorch used.

    Here's the last one for the evening, straight up, close to the post as I could make it comfortably...

    JB9vgFQ.png

    This...

    *shudders*


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 23,556 ✭✭✭✭Sir Digby Chicken Caesar


    one thing to keep in mind lucutus that I saw someone else mention after I sold you the aga, don't heat the mesh too much.. it can screw up the oxidis...thingie layer, apparently you just want it to glow a little orange and then cool it/quench it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭heliguyheliguy


    lol I get 22 alright
    Note the edge of the wick is pulling away right at the start of your hotspot as circled
    It's possible this is your problem.

    Are you folding that edge over on itself, before rolling the wick?
    How much wick material are you using? it looks very dense.


    picture.php?albumid=2284&pictureid=14563


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    you could try a mesh wick in the RDA, will give you an idea of the flavour you get from a mesh setup

    I take it you should still oxidise the wick for a RDA? Does it need to be a curved wick with a tail? I saw a guy do it on youtube with a paperclip, didn't look too bad. The AGA has nearly put me off SS wicks altogether.

    I'll stick with the silica for the moment as it's working great, off to ebay I go to get a bloody blowtorch...

    I used to only spend about 50 quid a month on smokes, I've easily spent 4 or 5 times that since I started this craic just before Christmas!!

    I guess my lungs are benefiting even if my wallet isn't:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 339 ✭✭Bubba9


    If you're wick is properly oxidised the main reason for top coil hotspots on the AGA's is the distance between coil and centre post. Bending the coil can help but another solution would be to get a pair of small ss washers, place between the nuts on the centre posts and wrap you're wire between them. This effectively shortens the distance between centre post and coil and should help cure the problem.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 23,556 ✭✭✭✭Sir Digby Chicken Caesar


    rickyjb wrote: »
    I take it you should still oxidise the wick for a RDA? Does it need to be a curved wick with a tail? I saw a guy do it on youtube with a paperclip, didn't look too bad. The AGA has nearly put me off SS wicks altogether.

    I'll stick with the silica for the moment as it's working great, off to ebay I go to get a bloody blowtorch...

    I used to only spend about 50 quid a month on smokes, I've easily spent 4 or 5 times that since I started this craic just before Christmas!!

    I guess my lungs are benefiting even if my wallet isn't:)


    https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/139346/237255.jpg

    this is a pic of green hornets mesh setup. yeah you do have to oxidise it still


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 569 ✭✭✭superneat


    I'll say don't give up anyway! ;)

    Here is one of the first tutorial videos I watched in regards to building for a genesis. It's 35mins long in two parts, but it gives you a good idea of the time taken for each step.


    PART 2


    I do it almost exactly as the video each time, apart from using a needle or something in the wick while it's in the wick hole, I don't find the need. If the wick is thick enough it will have enough rigidity to wrap around it by itself.

    I have yet to have a major problem with a coil following these steps.

    The juice burn is always recommended to be done at least three times, also the "fold over" before you roll the wick should be facing the positive post when doing the coil.

    Best of luck pal, I hope you get it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭heliguyheliguy


    My method.
    Cut mesh 40mm x 20mm
    Torch mesh till it glows on both sides
    Fold over on edge about 2-3mm
    Roll the mesh from the opposite side, around a paper clip.
    Only roll in one direction, as rolling backward will unwrap or loosen.
    The wick should now form a straw around the paper clip.
    Now I torch it glowing red making sure to get it all.
    Soak it in e-liquid till it is dripping off (never measured how much) and set on fire; twice.
    Take it off the paper clip.
    Trim one end at 45 degrees.
    Insert into atomizer and trim level with centre post.
    Put back on the paper clip and roll it again; to tidy up the cut ends.
    Place back in the atomizer and wrap the coil snug but not tight.(I like 4 wraps)
    Now if the tension of the coil is right you should be able to pull the wick back out by twisting back and forth while pulling gently.
    Now pulse the power till the coil glows evenly, do it a few more times to oxidise the coil.
    Check the resistance, this should now be the resistance of the coil if it changes you have a short to the wick.
    Re-insert the wick and test fire
    It should glow evenly, if not look at where the hotspot is touching the wick and just poke the coil up or down slightly and try again, repeat as necessary.
    That's about it for me, sometimes I get a stubborn one and i need to remove the wick and burn it again.

    p.s. I'm not saying this is the best / fastest / only method but it gets me there and I'm still learning :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,096 ✭✭✭Mr. Chrome


    rickyjb wrote: »

    Thanks for that, he's selling centre post nuts which I think is what I need. 5 pounds postage is a bit steep though, if anybody else needs anything from that site let me know.
    5 quid? He sent me a large bubble wrap envelope the other day, he didnt charge for delivery but the royal mail stamp was only 90p.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    Maybe if I just buy a nut he'll charge me less, I'll send him an email so.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 9,689 Mod ✭✭✭✭stevenmu


    Bubba9 wrote: »
    If you're wick is properly oxidised the main reason for top coil hotspots on the AGA's is the distance between coil and centre post. Bending the coil can help but another solution would be to get a pair of small ss washers, place between the nuts on the centre posts and wrap you're wire between them. This effectively shortens the distance between centre post and coil and should help cure the problem.
    I saw a post somewhere else (reddit I think), someone got a washer from an old vivi nova that fits perfectly.

    edit: post here, pictures here


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,096 ✭✭✭Mr. Chrome


    rickyjb wrote: »
    Maybe if I just buy a nut he'll charge me less, I'll send him an email so.
    Balls, just checked his site and it looks like he has changed his shipping prices, email him anyhow, he might sort you out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    lol I get 22 alright
    Note the edge of the wick is pulling away right at the start of your hotspot as circled
    It's possible this is your problem.

    Are you folding that edge over on itself, before rolling the wick?
    How much wick material are you using? it looks very dense.


    picture.php?albumid=2284&pictureid=14563

    Aye, been using that wick all the way through, and taking into account all of my experience (8 failed coils!!!11!!) and everything ppl here have said, it has to be be problem. I will try another wick tomorrow with your guide there and hopefully it should sort it out.
    stevenmu wrote: »
    I saw a post somewhere else (reddit I think), someone got a washer from an old vivi nova that fits perfectly.

    edit: post here, pictures here

    Sweet to the beat, I have one of those somewhere here, yea, the vivi nova one seems to have a shaft either side, but the *mini* vivi nova is flat on one edge, that might be just the ticket also.

    I will use all of this new boards.ie Vaping & E-Smoking forum knowledge in my attempts tomorrow evening and update with progress.

    Thanks everyone.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 813 ✭✭✭mrplop


    I've been having a terrible time trying to set up an SS mesh on the AGA.
    It probably hasn't helped that I'm using .15 Kanthal as it pops a lot easier than .20 or .25.

    Just tried the Vivi washer with the larger screw from my original ATA - it worked perfectly the first time - thanks!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    Mr. Chrome wrote: »
    Balls, just checked his site and it looks like he has changed his shipping prices, email him anyhow, he might sort you out.

    He quoted me 3 pounds delivered, I'm undecided. It's such a small nut!

    Besides keeping the central grommet (sp?) down is there any other use for the third nut, would you use it if you were building dual coils or anything like that?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    rickyjb wrote: »
    He quoted me 3 pounds delivered, I'm undecided. It's such a small nut!

    Besides keeping the central grommet (sp?) down is there any other use for the third nut, would you use it if you were building dual coils or anything like that?

    Grommet spelling - correct.

    There is no other use for that nut. With a dual-coil you wrap the top coil legs around the same area of the post.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭heliguyheliguy


    rickyjb wrote: »
    He quoted me 3 pounds delivered, I'm undecided. It's such a small nut!

    Besides keeping the central grommet (sp?) down is there any other use for the third nut, would you use it if you were building dual coils or anything like that?

    There is an easy solution, buy lots of stuff :D that way the shipping charge won't seem so much ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    There is an easy solution, buy lots of stuff :D that way the shipping charge won't seem so much ;)

    Yeah that's working out great for me so far:pac:

    That was my first thought actually but there's nothing on the site I really want, just bought a couple of drip tips and atomisers so I'm good for that kind of stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭heliguyheliguy


    Lucutus wrote: »
    I will use all of this new boards.ie Vaping & E-Smoking forum knowledge in my attempts tomorrow evening and update with progress.

    Thanks everyone.

    From about 24mins in

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Y-SafjWy5K8#!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    lol, aye, I watched that very one last night. The spring on that does indeed look useful!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭heliguyheliguy


    Lucutus wrote: »
    lol, aye, I watched that very one last night. The spring on that does indeed look useful!

    It was the poking, i was pointing out :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    Oh yes, I have my poking technique down. Expert levels.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 877 ✭✭✭jamie72


    I'm getting my first rebuildable tomorrow (AGA-S) and this thread is putting the **** up me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    Not at all, this should be your "go to" thread for genesis wick and coil making because, at this stage, all the info you could need is here :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 569 ✭✭✭superneat


    Watch a few of Todd's videos on rebuildables, he doesn't go into the finer details all that much, but you'll see many coils made from scratch. You will get an understanding of how it should come together.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/toddecigreviews?feature=watch

    It's not that difficult but it has made grown men cry!

    "If at first.. keep trying.." and all that jazz.. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    Lucutus wrote: »
    Not at all, this should be your "go to" thread for genesis wick and coil making because, at this stage, all the info you could need is here :)

    I've yet to go back to it but I think if I'd watched and read all that's in this thread before I'd started I would've gotten on much better. 2 things I definitely didn't do properly were oxidising the wick and using the proper tension i.e. not pulling it too tightly. Also folding over a small bit before rolling the wick. I'm now semi-motivated to give it another go. Just maybe not tonight:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Lucutus


    Well, it took an hour, 20 mins prepping the wick, 10 mins wrapping the coil, and 30 mins trying to touch it and fix it up, but I got there...

    oVILMWt.png

    bit more power:

    aNxWwD4.png

    filled the tank and the vape was amazing for 10 drags...

    ... then *bam* top coil hot spot!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 371 ✭✭illicit007


    *hands Lucutus a pistol with one bullet in the chamber*


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 569 ✭✭✭superneat


    That wick is miles away from the positive post! Pull it in until it actually touches the post, the shorter the distance between them will vastly reduce the chances of a hotspot.

    You're nearly there fella! :cool:

    When you're doing the coil, leave about an inch of slack at each end and don't snip it until you're absolutely sure it's set up right!


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