Painting Floorboards: Primer?

Its Behind You!

Apologies if this has been asked 1,000 times b4.:(

Painting old 70's, untouched wooden floor boards..

Last time I did this it took 5 coats of that expensive wood floor paint to get a good finish.

Should I chuck down a few coats of white emulsion b4 I use the floor paint?

Previous to that, in another part of the house, a shop recommended I "paint them with white emulsion and then lacquer".

4 coats later.....dreadful looking job...had to repaint the whole landing with floor paint (2 coats).

Cheers..

DublinDIYguy

Its Behind You! wrote: »

Apologies if this has been asked 1,000 times b4.:(

Painting old 70's, untouched wooden floor boards..

Last time I did this it took 5 coats of that expensive wood floor paint to get a good finish.

Should I chuck down a few coats of white emulsion b4 I use the floor paint?

Previous to that, in another part of the house, a shop recommended I "paint them with white emulsion and then lacquer".

4 coats later.....dreadful looking job...had to repaint the whole landing with floor paint (2 coats).

Cheers..

I presume your putting a colour on the floor rather than a woodstain cos of the emulsion idea. 1st of all don't use emulsion on your floor whoever suggested that is an idiot.
You'll have to prime the wood. Zinzeer make the best primers. After that I'd suggest using a good waterbased eggshell (farrow&ball or colourtrend) and give 2 heavy coats of this. Keep some of the paint as you'll prob need to touch up scraps or marks every yr or so but cos its waterbased it can be touch up easily enough.
Btw, they ppl in the paintshop won't recommend this as they'll want you to use expensive floor paint. Tell them it's for a hardwood cabinet. As long as your not planning on dancing on the floor in your high heels it'll be fine..

Its Behind You!

@DublinDIYGuy....fab!

Yeah, I can see now that the shop just wanted to sell me what they had in stock...(lacquer+emulsion)...bloody awful job it turned out to be.

Cheers for that.

paddy147

Zinsser BIN Primer is expensive,but so worth it.

Tin of eggshell (2 coats),on top of that,and you are flying indeed.:)




PS-That MacPhersons Eggshell in the picture is oil based.

Its Behind You!

Cheers lads!

DublinDIYguy

paddy147 wrote: »

Zinsser BIN Primer is expensive,but so worth it.

Tin of eggshell (2 coats),on top of that,and you are flying indeed.:)




PS-That MacPhersons Eggshell in the picture is oil based.

*Zinsser, I always spell that wrong,
Reasons I'd suggest waterbased eggshell instead of oil-based,
1. Quick drying so could be recoated on the same day,
2. The oil based can stay soft for a couple of days so shouldn't be walked.
3. The waterbased products are improving an awful lot recently, plus touch up way better..
4. Easier to use and to clean up afterwards.

cardwizzard

Putting zinseer on a floor is just asking for trouble. Its crap on normal woodwork and i'd never recomend it.

NIMAN

I'm reading this thread with interest as I sanded back the real wooden floor of an area a few weeks ago and I plan to turn it into a home office with a painted floor (thinking of an off-white).

Didn't really know how to go about painting a wooden floor, although I had assumed a primer which I had used on wooden furniture would be necessary ok. Then I was stuck as to what to do. I got in contact with a guy who sprays kitchen units etc and he gave a price of €250 to spray 5 coats on to the floor, saying it would last years.

Not really sure if it would be a better job that doing it myself, although I am sure it would be a lot more expensive (I would rather pay the money for a good job than have a go myself and make a mess of it).

It won't really be a high traffic area, but is a couple of coats of eggshell really all thats needed after priming? Would it stand up to wear and tear, furniture being placed on it etc?

DublinDIYguy

cardwizzard wrote: »

Putting zinseer on a floor is just asking for trouble. Its crap on normal woodwork and i'd never recomend it.

You obviously used the wrong type of Zinsser cardwizzard. I'm a painter&decorator by trade and I can guarantee that zinsser currently is the best primer on the market by far. And if you ask in any paintshop with a big range of paints ie: stillorgan decor, coolmine decor ect what is the best and easiest primer to use on hardwood they'll agree with me as Paddy above already did. I've done one hardwood floor,many banisters and kitchens and a serious amount of wooden doors and have always been happy with zinsser. You must fall into the bad tradesman blames his tools category as there is nothing wrong with that product.

NIMAN

So is that 1st pic of Paddy147s the primer I should look out for to paint my floorboards?

How many coats of primer is needed before painting?

And do I need to do any sanding between coats of primer? Coats of paint?

DublinDIYguy

NIMAN wrote: »

So is that 1st pic of Paddy147s the primer I should look out for to paint my floorboards?

How many coats of primer is needed before painting?

And do I need to do any sanding between coats of primer? Coats of paint?

Yeah, thats the one. Its great stuff.
Sand the floor before any paint and try and hoover up and clean away all the dust.
1 coat of the primer, 2 coats of waterbased eggshell, then a light sanding and 1 more coat and it'll look fab. If you scratch the floor moving furniture or dancing in your high heels you can just touch it up.. Shouldn't have to do it very often and it'd only take 5 mins to touch up..
You should be able to walk on the floor a few hrs after each coat but leave the last one as long as possible.
Be sure not to paint yourself in!!

cardwizzard

DublinDIYguy wrote: »

You obviously used the wrong type of Zinsser cardwizzard. I'm a painter&decorator by trade and I can guarantee that zinsser currently is the best primer on the market by far. And if you ask in any paintshop with a big range of paints ie: stillorgan decor, coolmine decor ect what is the best and easiest primer to use on hardwood they'll agree with me as Paddy above already did. I've done one hardwood floor,many banisters and kitchens and a serious amount of wooden doors and have always been happy with zinsser. You must fall into the bad tradesman blames his tools category as there is nothing wrong with that product.

So much wrong with this I don't know where to start.

I have used Zinseer since 1998. I have no doubts its a decent product, but using it as a primer, whether shellac or water bases, is IMO a huge mistake. Especially over a hardwood. You will get chips and dings and it comes off over time. Now before you go crazy saying its lack of prep blah blah, its not.

Primer is supposed to do two things. Sink into the grain of the wood and raise the grain slightly. Sanding is then required. Secondly let the top coats adhere properly to the primer. Zinseer lacks these requirements.

Painters like yourself love this stuff as they can get in and out of a job quickly. Or as you put it the easiest to use.. However the long standing results are that it is nowhere near as effective as say an aluminuim (speeeelllinng) wood primer. Don't let your paint shop decitate to you what you as a pro should be using!

The Zinseer products are designed as stain blockers.

Or I am a bad tradesman:rolleyes:.

I cant get into a debate about this, as my missus is in the Rotunda about to have a baby tonight, yippeeeeeeeeeeee:D:D:D:D:D:D:D.

NIMAN

Is eggshell not a very shiny paint? Is that ideal for an office space with velux windows?

Maybe it would be, I just would like to know before I start it!

paddy147

cardwizzard wrote: »

So much wrong with this I don't know where to start.

I have used Zinseer since 1998. I have no doubts its a decent product, but using it as a primer, whether shellac or water bases, is IMO a huge mistake. Especially over a hardwood. You will get chips and dings and it comes off over time. Now before you go crazy saying its lack of prep blah blah, its not.

Primer is supposed to do two things. Sink into the grain of the wood and raise the grain slightly. Sanding is then required. Secondly let the top coats adhere properly to the primer. Zinseer lacks these requirements.

Painters like yourself love this stuff as they can get in and out of a job quickly. Or as you put it the easiest to use.. However the long standing results are that it is nowhere near as effective as say an aluminuim (speeeelllinng) wood primer. Don't let your paint shop decitate to you what you as a pro should be using!

The Zinseer products are designed as stain blockers.

Or I am a bad tradesman:rolleyes:.

I cant get into a debate about this, as my missus is in the Rotunda about to have a baby tonight, yippeeeeeeeeeeee:D:D:D:D:D:D:D.

Congratts on the new arrival and hope mother and baby are and will be ok.;):D

DublinDIYguy

cardwizzard wrote: »

DublinDIYguy wrote: »

You obviously used the wrong type of Zinsser cardwizzard. I'm a painter&decorator by trade and I can guarantee that zinsser currently is the best primer on the market by far. And if you ask in any paintshop with a big range of paints ie: stillorgan decor, coolmine decor ect what is the best and easiest primer to use on hardwood they'll agree with me as Paddy above already did. I've done one hardwood floor,many banisters and kitchens and a serious amount of wooden doors and have always been happy with zinsser. You must fall into the bad tradesman blames his tools category as there is nothing wrong with that product.

So much wrong with this I don't know where to start.

I have used Zinseer since 1998. I have no doubts its a decent product, but using it as a primer, whether shellac or water bases, is IMO a huge mistake. Especially over a hardwood. You will get chips and dings and it comes off over time. Now before you go crazy saying its lack of prep blah blah, its not.

Primer is supposed to do two things. Sink into the grain of the wood and raise the grain slightly. Sanding is then required. Secondly let the top coats adhere properly to the primer. Zinseer lacks these requirements.

Painters like yourself love this stuff as they can get in and out of a job quickly. Or as you put it the easiest to use.. However the long standing results are that it is nowhere near as effective as say an aluminuim (speeeelllinng) wood primer. Don't let your paint shop decitate to you what you as a pro should be using!

The Zinseer products are designed as stain blockers.

Or I am a bad tradesman:rolleyes:.

I cant get into a debate about this, as my missus is in the Rotunda about to have a baby tonight, yippeeeeeeeeeeee:D:D:D:D:D:D:D.

As I suggested earlier your using the wrong zinsser. One of them is a stain block, the one in paddys pic is mainly a primer.
I don't let the paintshops dictate(i presume you mean) my choice but their advice is generally based on yrs of feedback from their customers, the painters or pros as you referred to me. So its us who dictate their advice.
Aluminium primer is only useful on new hardwood, you can't raise the grain through whatever varnish and stains are on these floors so unless they're going to spend a couple of days with a blow torch or a couple of heavy duty sanding machines it would be a terrible primer to use. Not to mention it is silver an requires an extra couple of top coats. All my jobs have been left to a high quality finish despite the fact I get in and get out as quick as possible, and I used zinsser on my bannisters about 5 years ago and guess what, no chips, still looks great.
You've used zinsser since 1998 long before most of us painters caught onto it, you must be yrs ahead of us pros plus you must have some amount of stains to block.
You call me a pro but think you know more about painting then I do..
"Stand aside Doctor, I'll deliver this baby".

Its Behind You!

@Card Wizzard...best wishes and Welcome!! to the new wee Card Wizard...having the time to go on boards will be a luxury for you now!

best wishes:)

Its Behind You!

DublinDIYguy wrote: »

"Stand aside Doctor, I'll deliver this baby".

LOL!! Really appreciate the time all of ye guys have put in here. I've been throwing paint at walls mostly, for a couple of decades now and I'm now realising that I havent had a clue really. I'm very neat and meticulous, but thats only part of the skill requirements I guess.

(I shall'nt even begin to understand what "Frog Tape" is used for:().

Do the pros use MacPherson mostly? Would you be seen without a mask buying paint from homebase?

I see Homebase stock Dulux and the likes, is that a marriage of convenience?

Cheers all : )

Edit: Just read the small print. Frog Tape = Masking Tape...never seen that brand before...i must buy the cheap stuff...i was wondering why it was crap..LOL!"

Upsy_Daisy

Ok here's my take on it I'm not a professional painter just a humble housewife who has discovered the joys of painting.

Zinseer BIN is "CRAP" in my opinion - on the advice of my local paintshop they advised rather than sanding every door (all 17 of them) to coat them in 2 coats of zinseer and then two top coats of satinwood. Well all I can say is I'm devasted with the result. They keep chipping so pissed off. I used the "BIN" which is according to the tin is a primer that I can use on varnish.

I have also painted a varnished floor in our bathroom and I used "coverstain" which on the tin says its not recommended for varnished surfaces. I put 2 coats of this on and then two top coats of satinwood and I have very little problems with that floor.

I have also used the emulsion and laquer method now whoever came up with this should die in the slowest possible way. My bedroom floor is destroyed and I just don't know what to do about it now. Any ideas welcome.

DublinDIYguy

Upsy_Daisy wrote: »

Ok here's my take on it I'm not a professional painter just a humble housewife who has discovered the joys of painting.

Zinseer BIN is "CRAP" in my opinion - on the advice of my local paintshop they advised rather than sanding every door (all 17 of them) to coat them in 2 coats of zinseer and then two top coats of satinwood. Well all I can say is I'm devasted with the result. They keep chipping so pissed off. I used the "BIN" which is according to the tin is a primer that I can use on varnish.

I have also painted a varnished floor in our bathroom and I used "coverstain" which on the tin says its not recommended for varnished surfaces. I put 2 coats of this on and then two top coats of satinwood and I have very little problems with that floor.

I have also used the emulsion and laquer method now whoever came up with this should die in the slowest possible way. My bedroom floor is destroyed and I just don't know what to do about it now. Any ideas welcome.

Painting over varnish without sanding was your mistake, its like painting on glass. Sanding provides grip. I'm not surprised its been chipping all the time.
Right brand, wrong method.
Bedroom floor can easily be fixed with a couple of coats of eggshell..
Unless the hardwood is burning through the paint thats on it, then you'll need a coat of your favourite primer to stop that from happening 1st..

Its Behind You!

Hi all:

Could'nt source them brands, went with International Primer and Dulux Trade Eggshell.

Thorough sanding. Primer on yesterday, first coat eggshell this morning. Its looks fab! Second coat on tomorrow.

My daughter says its like something out of a catalogue. , it does too.

Thanks for all the advice folks....much appreciated..

NIMAN

Keep me updated on the progress (and some pics if at all possible), as I may be copying you if you think its a good job !!;)

How did you do the sanding?
Primer/paint application? With brush or roller?

Its Behind You!

Cant get into room as 1st coat still drying.

These photos dont really do it justice. hmmmm...should I have filled that gap
below the skirting?:(

Its Behind You!

@ Niman

I did the sanding with sand paper, medium. Didnt spend too much time on it, but did sand all the floor.

Used brush on floor. Didnt think about using roller.

DublinDIYguy

Its Behind You! wrote: »

Cant get into room as 1st coat still drying.

These photos dont really do it justice. hmmmm...should I have filled that gap
below the skirting?:(

Looks good, is it a colour or just white?
You can still fill them gaps, get a tube or 2 of caulk and fill it before painting but make sure you paint over the caulk cos it gets very dirty otherwise..
Is that oil eggshell you used or waterbased?

Its Behind You!

@ DublinDIYGuy

Oil based (he said nervously) is that the right one? It's white.

I'll get some caulk for sure.

The quality of the eggshell paint just seems so much better than the expensive "floor paint" I used on another job. Seems to be more substance to it. The tin seemed whole lot heavier than ur average 5litre tin too. Maybe I'm dreaming?

Got to echo Upsy-Daisy's recommendation for sentence to be served on those customer service advisors in paint shops who recommend emulsion and lacquer.

Mind you, if I ever needed to recreate a bar scene from the wild west in a hurry, it might be a technique that would come in handy, achieving that authentic beer/spit/dirty boots/smoke-stained look. Not nice in my hall tho.

Its Behind You!

@DublinDIYGuy....Oh st!t! I just re-read your posts, where you recommended using waterbased.

:eek:Boll**Ks! I'll know for next time.....

DublinDIYguy

Its Behind You! wrote: »

@ DublinDIYGuy

Oil based (he said nervously) is that the right one? It's white.

I'll get some caulk for sure.

The quality of the eggshell paint just seems so much better than the expensive "floor paint" I used on another job. Seems to be more substance to it. The tin seemed whole lot heavier than ur average 5litre tin too. Maybe I'm dreaming?

Got to echo Upsy-Daisy's recommendation for sentence to be served on those customer service advisors in paint shops who recommend emulsion and lacquer.

Mind you, if I ever needed to recreate a bar scene from the wild west in a hurry, it might be a technique that would come in handy, achieving that authentic beer/spit/dirty boots/smoke-stained look. Not nice in my hall tho.

Lol, it's bizarre that yous were both given that wierd advice. Must've gone to the same shop. Never heard that method before. I'd love to see a pic of that floor. I can only imagine the hardwood would burn through the emulsion and the lacquer on top to give it a greasy dirty effect. Now your a floor master you can do it properly .
The oil-based eggshell is fine, probably better but after you give it the finish coat tomorrow I'd suggest trying to wait a couple of days before moving the furniture in if you can. Reason being the paint will remain soft for a while. Dries on the outside but under the surface remains wet and soft so can be easily marked or dented.
Best of luck..

cardwizzard

Its Behind You! wrote: »

Hi all:

Could'nt source them brands, went with International Primer and Dulux Trade Eggshell.

Thorough sanding. Primer on yesterday, first coat eggshell this morning. Its looks fab! Second coat on tomorrow.

My daughter says its like something out of a catalogue. , it does too.

Thanks for all the advice folks....much appreciated..

Well done, you went the correct route IMO. Only thing is Dulux is still having problems with their white staying well white. Hard to believe.

The floor looks great and well done, hope you enjoy it and i'm sure a nice sense of satisfaction.:)

Its Behind You!

cardwizzard wrote: »

Well done, you went the correct route IMO. Only thing is Dulux is still having problems with their white staying well white. Hard to believe.

The floor looks great and well done, hope you enjoy it and i'm sure a nice sense of satisfaction.:)

For sure Card Wizzard, and I filled the gap below the skirting, looks brand new!

I've learnt a lot from this thread even tho I've been throwing paint at walls for years...LOL!!

How did the birth go? Boy/girl? Hope all doing well!

NIMAN

Any chance of final pics of the finished job?

Its Behind You!

sin e!

Its Behind You!

north facing room so no natural light and I'm no David Bailey...

but you can really tell the difference when you walk on the boards, walking on firm substance, its so much better than the expensive flor paint I used before.

The egshell took really well to the primer...quality...go for it:D

cardwizzard

Nice job, well done:D.

Its Behind You!

You all might well notice that the wall with the rad has a bit of condensation left of rad and below rad.

Its a cold wall, single brick construction, was considerably damp from attracting internal moisture over the years prior to moving into the house, but with better regular ventilation, the problem has greatly improved, to virtually nothing.

Any tips on that welcome.

There is some sort of "insulating paint" on the market which I reckon is has to be rubbish.

In the meantime, is the best remedy to prime any previously moisture stained damp mark and re-emulsion?

Thanks all...

Its Behind You!

cardwizzard wrote: »

Nice job, well done:D.

Cheers Cardwizzard....what did you have, a boy or a girl? all doing well we hope:)

cardwizzard

Many thks for the well wishes all, for little man number 2. Both him and mam doing really well thankfully. Few days off so happy days.

There is a certain primer on the market that i'd use for water damaged areas, just can't think of the name of it......;)

Its Behind You!

2 boys! Happy days:D...congratulations to ye all, enjoy the great times ahead...:)

paddy147

cardwizzard wrote: »

Many thks for the well wishes all, for little man number 2. Both him and mam doing really well thankfully. Few days off so happy days.

There is a certain primer on the market that i'd use for water damaged areas, just can't think of the name of it......;)

Sorry to go off topic for a minute,but...........

Congratts on the new "little man" and glad to read that both little man and mammy are both doing fine.

Congratts again.:)

Its Behind You!

Nothing else for it folks...had half a 5 litre can of eggshell left...so whats a guy to do?

start re-decorating another room..:D

mizzogg

DublinDIYguy wrote: »

I presume your putting a colour on the floor rather than a woodstain cos of the emulsion idea. 1st of all don't use emulsion on your floor whoever suggested that is an idiot.
You'll have to prime the wood. Zinzeer make the best primers. After that I'd suggest using a good waterbased eggshell (farrow&ball or colourtrend) and give 2 heavy coats of this. Keep some of the paint as you'll prob need to touch up scraps or marks every yr or so but cos its waterbased it can be touch up easily enough.
Btw, they ppl in the paintshop won't recommend this as they'll want you to use expensive floor paint. Tell them it's for a hardwood cabinet. As long as your not planning on dancing on the floor in your high heels it'll be fine..

expensive floor paint! Farrow & Ball are prob the most expensive out there & over overly rated....... what ever colour you decide....after keying up the surface paint it with matt emulsion ....will act as a primer as well (on interior floors)....then 2 coats of waterbased floor varnish....simple as that

mizzogg

DublinDIYguy wrote: »

You obviously used the wrong type of Zinsser cardwizzard. I'm a painter&decorator by trade and I can guarantee that zinsser currently is the best primer on the market by far. And if you ask in any paintshop with a big range of paints ie: stillorgan decor, coolmine decor ect what is the best and easiest primer to use on hardwood they'll agree with me as Paddy above already did. I've done one hardwood floor,many banisters and kitchens and a serious amount of wooden doors and have always been happy with zinsser. You must fall into the bad tradesman blames his tools category as there is nothing wrong with that product.[/

zinsser is good but not the best out there for what has to be done to this floor......interior floor .... two coats of emulsion plus two waterbased floor varnishes is the cheapest way & will do fine .....I wouldnt ask any paint store which is the best cos all they do is recite the back of a tin

mizzogg

Its Behind You! wrote: »

@ DublinDIYGuy

Oil based (he said nervously) is that the right one? It's white.

I'll get some caulk for sure.

The quality of the eggshell paint just seems so much better than the expensive "floor paint" I used on another job. Seems to be more substance to it. The tin seemed whole lot heavier than ur average 5litre tin too. Maybe I'm dreaming?

Got to echo Upsy-Daisy's recommendation for sentence to be served on those customer service advisors in paint shops who recommend emulsion and lacquer.

Mind you, if I ever needed to recreate a bar scene from the wild west in a hurry, it might be a technique that would come in handy, achieving that authentic beer/spit/dirty boots/smoke-stained look. Not nice in my hall tho.

you obviously painted it wrong

mizzogg

Its Behind You! wrote: »

For sure Card Wizzard, and I filled the gap below the skirting, looks brand new!

I've learnt a lot from this thread even tho I've been throwing paint at walls for years...LOL!!

How did the birth go? Boy/girl? Hope all doing well!

You will also learn that the caulk that you filled the gap with will split & look unsightly....sooner rather then later

Its Behind You!

mizzogg wrote: »

you obviously painted it wrong

Any suggestions as to how I might have painted it wrong Mizzogg?

Its Behind You!

mizzogg wrote: »

You will also learn that the caulk that you filled the gap with will split & look unsightly....sooner rather then later

Thanks for your observation there Mizzog, I look forward to that.

Do you have any suggestions as to how the filling job should have been done?

mizzogg

Its Behind You! wrote: »

Thanks for your observation there Mizzog, I look forward to that.

Do you have any suggestions as to how the filling job should have been done?

yes dont fill it, attach a strip of wooden beading to the bottom of the skirting boards & paint it.

mizzogg

Its Behind You! wrote: »

Any suggestions as to how I might have painted it wrong Mizzogg?

I dont know how you painted it but from what youve said , you must of painted it wrong.....attched are some pics of one I done in the way I said ....in a day !
Ive painted loads using this method also painted them to resemble all types of marble all types of wood & never had any complaints or problems. Been back to a few to do other work over ten years later & its still perfect

Its Behind You!

To be fair Mizogg, I dont think it was the way I painted it.

Maybe my standards/expectations were too high? Or there was some sort of chemical reaction between the paint/varnish and the underlying timber floor boards?

I don't rush anything. Floors were well cleaned/prepared, 2 coats of quality white emulsion 2, coats of water based floor varnishes were applied. And I left a day between each coat.

But I tell ya, they looked liked they had been nicotined stained for decades.

Now I used the same varnish on same sanded boards and the result was 1st class. (4 years ago, still looks brand new).

You mentioned that you have done 1 hardwood floor? Is that all? or am I missing something here?

Have you used the 2 emulsion/2 varnish white on sanded 70s floor boards before?

Very tidy job there on those photos, nice work.

mizzogg

Its Behind You! wrote: »

To be fair Mizogg, I dont think it was the way I painted it.

Maybe my standards/expectations were too high? Or there was some sort of chemical reaction between the paint/varnish and the underlying timber floor boards?

I don't rush anything. Floors were well cleaned/prepared, 2 coats of quality white emulsion 2, coats of water based floor varnishes were applied. And I left a day between each coat.

But I tell ya, they looked liked they had been nicotined stained for decades.

Now I used the same varnish on same sanded boards and the result was 1st class. (4 years ago, still looks brand new).

You mentioned that you have done 1 hardwood floor? Is that all? or am I missing something here?

Have you used the 2 emulsion/2 varnish white on sanded 70s floor boards before?

Very tidy job there on those photos, nice work.[/QUOTe

Ive painted too many floors to count...the one in my pics is Id say 50s/60s

Did you use lacquer over the emulsion? if so the paint will react & often "craze" or bubble when lacquer is applied to it. Thats what I mean by painting it wrong......the painting of your floor in the pics you have posted is fine & well painted ...apart from the caulk hee hee

Having said all that, these old floors look really really elegant if you scrub the dirt outta them with a old cheap recipe of things that funnily enough, you'd find in your food press ( wont harm its natural patina ) & then varnished.... just as quick but also adds warm & richer look/feel to your room.

DublinDIYguy

mizzogg wrote: »

I dont know how you painted it but from what youve said , you must of painted it wrong.....attched are some pics of one I done in the way I said ....in a day !
Ive painted loads using this method also painted them to resemble all types of marble all types of wood & never had any complaints or problems. Been back to a few to do other work over ten years later & its still perfect

You've been back to a few jobs over 10 yrs later and they are still perfect? Still perfect??
That statement discredits everything else you say imo..
What have you done (in a day) in the pics? Looks like you painted the floor black and varnished over it then took 2 pics before its even dried and all the problems start. If emulsion paint could look perfect on a floor with water based varnish over it ten yrs later you think only you would know and all the manufacturers in the world would still be recommending other (proper) ways to paint floors. Emulsion should never be used on a floor. dulux, farrow & ball, zinzeer and many other paint manufacturers spend millions on research to find the best methods but what do they know mizzogg can paint floors that stay perfect for over ten years.
By the way I don't want to startle you but in your first pic there's some bogey in a hoodie peering through the window..

DublinDIYguy

mizzogg wrote: »

expensive floor paint! Farrow & Ball are prob the most expensive out there & over overly rated....... what ever colour you decide....after keying up the surface paint it with matt emulsion ....will act as a primer as well (on interior floors)....then 2 coats of waterbased floor varnish....simple as that

You usually get what you pay for, Farrow & ball are the most expensive for water based eggshell but name a better water based eggshell. And there are far more expensive paints made especially for flooring. That are better than all methods we've mentioned, but they come in 2packs and need to be left for about 3 days to dry properly..
Farrow & Ball may be expensive but nobody can deny they are one of the best paints on the market. Take cost out of the equation and I reckon most would choose f&b over the rest.