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Your Titleist SureFit settings

  • 26-06-2012 11:21am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 420 ✭✭


    I picked up a second hand 910f 4-wood last week and noticed it was set to D2 - low/draw.

    Turns out everytime I hit it I get a very low hook.:D

    On my day I'm a straight hitter so I'm thinking the best setting would be d4?

    Any feedback on what setting you have and what shape you like to hit the ball?

    1488.2010_2D00_910_2D00_chart_2D00_rh.jpg


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,759 ✭✭✭Dr.Silly


    I'm using the 910 D3 and my setting is set to B2. I love the club.

    I was actually thinking of getting the 910f to replace my poxy 3 wood.
    Are you happy with it ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,759 ✭✭✭Dr.Silly


    btw, I would try the C3 .. might sound good for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 420 ✭✭Jazzzman


    Dr.Silly wrote: »
    btw, I would try the C3 .. might sound good for you.

    yeah, good shout.


    Dr. Silly - early signs suggest it's a great club, especially once I take off the auto-hook;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,759 ✭✭✭Dr.Silly


    Jazzzman wrote: »
    yeah, good shout.


    Dr. Silly - early signs suggest it's a great club, especially once I take off the auto-hook;)

    cool .. what shaft is on it btw ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,238 ✭✭✭✭FixdePitchmark


    I'm at A1.

    Don't know if i will end up here, but want to know if I'm hitting it straight or draw ,not the club. Changing my game, so did not want the club shaping the ball. I guess there is no need for this club or shaft if you stay at A1 ?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,333 ✭✭✭Tones69


    IMO for people who are not pro or very low hcap and have a very very repeatable swing then the standard setting is prob the best, unless you have a constant tiny fade or tiny over draw u wanna straighten out then id leave her alone. Ive got my D3 set to 8.75* and my 910 F set at 14.25*


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 420 ✭✭Jazzzman


    Dr.Silly wrote: »
    cool .. what shaft is on it btw ?

    diamana 'ahina stiff


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 138 ✭✭liverbear


    I'm on B4 with my 910 D2. It allows me really attack with it. Still hit it with a draw inspite of the large fade bias in the setting. using tour xtra stiff shaft cant remember make off top head but its yellow


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,140 ✭✭✭✭TheDoc


    My 910 D2 got fitted as B3.

    Have been hitting the demo lovely

    Cant wait for mine to arrive now
    Also tempted to look into the 3wood

    Bit pricey


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,333 ✭✭✭Tones69


    TheDoc wrote: »
    My 910 D2 got fitted as B3.

    Have been hitting the demo lovely

    Cant wait for mine to arrive now
    Also tempted to look into the 3wood

    Bit pricey

    The 910F 3 wood is the daddy, love it


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,865 ✭✭✭TRS30


    TheDoc wrote: »
    My 910 D2 got fitted as B3.

    Have been hitting the demo lovely

    Cant wait for mine to arrive now
    Also tempted to look into the 3wood

    Bit pricey
    Tones69 wrote: »
    The 910F 3 wood is the daddy, love it

    Got the 910FD 13.5 and is a mini driver off the tee. 240 yrds GPS last night with little run.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭elberry


    A1 or B2 would be both worth trying. I don't know the deal with the fairway woods but with the 910 drivers the A1 and D4 settings are actually not square at all but 0.5 degree open which is totally ridiculous for an adjustable driver imo, 16 different settings and you can't set it dead square!!!
    B2 and C3 are 0.25 degree closed so is actually closer to dead square than the A1 setting. I don't have a fairway wood but with the D2 driver I can't keep the ball flight down, this thing launches far too high, even at the C2 setting with a 9.5 driver stiff shaft and the ball teed very low. Does the fairway wood launch high?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,238 ✭✭✭✭FixdePitchmark


    elberry wrote: »
    A1 or B2 would be both worth trying. I don't know the deal with the fairway woods but with the 910 drivers the A1 and D4 settings are actually not square at all but 0.5 degree open which is totally ridiculous for an adjustable driver imo, 16 different settings and you can't set it dead square!!!
    B2 and C3 are 0.25 degree closed so is actually closer to dead square than the A1 setting. I don't have a fairway wood but with the D2 driver I can't keep the ball flight down, this thing launches far too high, even at the C2 setting with a 9.5 driver stiff shaft and the ball teed very low. Does the fairway wood launch high?

    good post.

    Any reason for the 0.5 deg open.

    Means - my setting is not helping me as I tend to slice driver .

    Was thinking A1 is all square. High launch with me too.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,759 ✭✭✭Dr.Silly


    elberry wrote: »
    with the D2 driver I can't keep the ball flight down, this thing launches far too high, even at the C2 setting with a 9.5 driver stiff shaft and the ball teed very low. Does the fairway wood launch high?

    There's so many stiff shafts to choose from, I'd imagine you have one which is not suited to you.
    The shaft has a huge input into trajectory.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭elberry


    Yes I am assuming it is mostly the shaft, but it can't be all the shaft either, I guess the head is high launching, the only way I can keep the flight down is to thin the shot a little. I have this thing teed so low now that it is almost like playing off the grass and it still launches crazy high. It is the kaili 65 stiff shaft with mid written on it which presumably means either mid-kick or mid-flight so is expected to have a reasonably low flight, and its set at 8.75 degrees now and 0.25 degrees closed. My misses tend to be right so its alot less work to keep a straighter shot now that I changed the setting. I hit alot of fairways with this thing, even in our windy weather and the very high launch which is the reason I keep using it, but with a lower flight I would certainly be hitting even more fairways and gaining at least 10 yards carry plus roll. Reshafting these things is expensive and without testing it I am wary of buying a shaft that mightn't work either. I am thinking I would prefer the D3 to the D2 as it is said to be less spin giving a lower ball-flight.

    I don't know why on earth these driver manufacturers make so many drivers with an open face, we all play our irons with a square face and most fairway woods with a square face, the 0.5 degree open face really put me off at address, i could still hit fairways with it but it was more work, the 0.25 degrees closed does look ALOT more square at address so for the other poster I would recommend trying it, its so easy to adjust these drivers its no sweat to change and change back again. Although personally I think every driver should come dead square as standard. I know some of the other major drivers come with slightly open face also, their theory being that some people miss on the left!!!!!! What a bunch of nonsense, of course some miss left, others miss right too!!! And you could say that about all the other clubs too, including putters, doesn't mean you should sell it with an open or closed face. If someone wants to buy an open or closed face thats one thing, but when you market a driver as fitting everyone because you have 16 different drivers settings and not even 1 of those is dead square then its just nuts.
    FixedPitchmark I was hitting it better when I changed it to C3, still ballooning them but very few misses right, only a few were going left off the fairway, but at C3 I aim down the right edge of the fairway to play a slight draw when I had been aiming down the left fairway with a slight fade or turning the club over a little to try to keep it straight.
    I will say this club is easy to control on the left-right side of things so it finds loads of fairways, tis a great club and for any high-handicapper struggling to get launch this thing is probably the best out there.
    I am thinking the shafts feels softer than a true stiff shaft, I don't like the idea of using a x-stiff, but I would like to experiment with one in this head, if I could keep the ball-flight down the driver would be the best ever.

    Anyhow, does the 3W also launch the ball high? Is the 3W also with an open face, or do they make it square for the A1 setting?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,333 ✭✭✭Tones69


    elberry wrote: »
    Yes I am assuming it is mostly the shaft, but it can't be all the shaft either, I guess the head is high launching, the only way I can keep the flight down is to thin the shot a little. I have this thing teed so low now that it is almost like playing off the grass and it still launches crazy high. It is the kaili 65 stiff shaft with mid written on it which presumably means either mid-kick or mid-flight so is expected to have a reasonably low flight, and its set at 8.75 degrees now and 0.25 degrees closed. My misses tend to be right so its alot less work to keep a straighter shot now that I changed the setting. I hit alot of fairways with this thing, even in our windy weather and the very high launch which is the reason I keep using it, but with a lower flight I would certainly be hitting even more fairways and gaining at least 10 yards carry plus roll. Reshafting these things is expensive and without testing it I am wary of buying a shaft that mightn't work either. I am thinking I would prefer the D3 to the D2 as it is said to be less spin giving a lower ball-flight.

    I don't know why on earth these driver manufacturers make so many drivers with an open face, we all play our irons with a square face and most fairway woods with a square face, the 0.5 degree open face really put me off at address, i could still hit fairways with it but it was more work, the 0.25 degrees closed does look ALOT more square at address so for the other poster I would recommend trying it, its so easy to adjust these drivers its no sweat to change and change back again. Although personally I think every driver should come dead square as standard. I know some of the other major drivers come with slightly open face also, their theory being that some people miss on the left!!!!!! What a bunch of nonsense, of course some miss left, others miss right too!!! And you could say that about all the other clubs too, including putters, doesn't mean you should sell it with an open or closed face. If someone wants to buy an open or closed face thats one thing, but when you market a driver as fitting everyone because you have 16 different drivers settings and not even 1 of those is dead square then its just nuts.
    FixedPitchmark I was hitting it better when I changed it to C3, still ballooning them but very few misses right, only a few were going left off the fairway, but at C3 I aim down the right edge of the fairway to play a slight draw when I had been aiming down the left fairway with a slight fade or turning the club over a little to try to keep it straight.
    I will say this club is easy to control on the left-right side of things so it finds loads of fairways, tis a great club and for any high-handicapper struggling to get launch this thing is probably the best out there.
    I am thinking the shafts feels softer than a true stiff shaft, I don't like the idea of using a x-stiff, but I would like to experiment with one in this head, if I could keep the ball-flight down the driver would be the best ever.

    Anyhow, does the 3W also launch the ball high? Is the 3W also with an open face, or do they make it square for the A1 setting?



    You sound like me last year,i tried everything, shafts, teeing it down etc etc teeing it low will add more spin to it and it will fade even more, tee it up properly and get a nice smooth in to out swing going.

    Im a strong hitter and am a high baller too but since ive gotten 2 lessons and practiced the correct grip and allignment i have gotten rid of my slice, started getting my weight onto my front side ive been getting a lovely mid flight with a little draw! Trust me, fiddling with shafts and degree will not fix a high fade/slice, to a certain small degree yes but it wont fix your problems.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,238 ✭✭✭✭FixdePitchmark


    elberry wrote: »
    Yes I am assuming it is mostly the shaft, but it can't be all the shaft either, I guess the head is high launching, the only way I can keep the flight down is to thin the shot a little. I have this thing teed so low now that it is almost like playing off the grass and it still launches crazy high. It is the kaili 65 stiff shaft with mid written on it which presumably means either mid-kick or mid-flight so is expected to have a reasonably low flight, and its set at 8.75 degrees now and 0.25 degrees closed. My misses tend to be right so its alot less work to keep a straighter shot now that I changed the setting. I hit alot of fairways with this thing, even in our windy weather and the very high launch which is the reason I keep using it, but with a lower flight I would certainly be hitting even more fairways and gaining at least 10 yards carry plus roll. Reshafting these things is expensive and without testing it I am wary of buying a shaft that mightn't work either. I am thinking I would prefer the D3 to the D2 as it is said to be less spin giving a lower ball-flight.

    I don't know why on earth these driver manufacturers make so many drivers with an open face, we all play our irons with a square face and most fairway woods with a square face, the 0.5 degree open face really put me off at address, i could still hit fairways with it but it was more work, the 0.25 degrees closed does look ALOT more square at address so for the other poster I would recommend trying it, its so easy to adjust these drivers its no sweat to change and change back again. Although personally I think every driver should come dead square as standard. I know some of the other major drivers come with slightly open face also, their theory being that some people miss on the left!!!!!! What a bunch of nonsense, of course some miss left, others miss right too!!! And you could say that about all the other clubs too, including putters, doesn't mean you should sell it with an open or closed face. If someone wants to buy an open or closed face thats one thing, but when you market a driver as fitting everyone because you have 16 different drivers settings and not even 1 of those is dead square then its just nuts.
    FixedPitchmark I was hitting it better when I changed it to C3, still ballooning them but very few misses right, only a few were going left off the fairway, but at C3 I aim down the right edge of the fairway to play a slight draw when I had been aiming down the left fairway with a slight fade or turning the club over a little to try to keep it straight.
    I will say this club is easy to control on the left-right side of things so it finds loads of fairways, tis a great club and for any high-handicapper struggling to get launch this thing is probably the best out there.
    I am thinking the shafts feels softer than a true stiff shaft, I don't like the idea of using a x-stiff, but I would like to experiment with one in this head, if I could keep the ball-flight down the driver would be the best ever.

    Anyhow, does the 3W also launch the ball high? Is the 3W also with an open face, or do they make it square for the A1 setting?

    Could it be designed open due to driver position in arc of swing (forward in stance) ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭elberry


    Could it be designed open due to driver position in arc of swing (forward in stance) ?

    No. Many drivers are designed open, particularly what they call "Players Drivers" as opposed to Game Improvement Drivers, because some manufacturers claim that many of the better golfers tend to miss more fairways left than right. The Ping i15 and the Mizuno MP-650 are both a degree open-faced as are many of the others, I think Cleveland drivers have an open face, I am not sure about TM, I have never owned a TM driver but MANY of the other popular drivers have an open face as an assistance against hitting it left. With these adjustable drivers you can then reset it closed if you prefer etc, but the open face isn't to do with arcs or any swing-types, is just designed to be anti-left. It definetly worth trying with the 0.25 degrees closed setting unless your main misses do tend to be left.
    Tones I appreciate the advice, I have tried every type of setting, I do keep it a fraction lower when I tee it lower, when I tee it up I am launching this like a wedge, I tend to hit my irons fairly high anyway but never have I launched a driver as high as this. I would say that I am still carrying this driver over the 270 yard marker most of the time, we have a flat 295 yard par 4 that I have often carried the ball to the centre of the green and if I hit a ball with roll it goes through the back. I am always short of the green with the D2. I used play off a fairly low handicap once upon a time. We have a par 5 that I often played a right good drive+6 iron without wind, have been on once with driver wedge and strong wind assistance, my very best drive to date with the D2 has left me 3 iron to the green and that was a real cracker of a drive that I was expecting to leave me with 5 or 6 iron. I am very happy with how accurate this is, which is why I accept the yardage loss, but with either a different shaft or maybe the D3 head I would expect to regain all that lost yardage and still be quite accurate. The club also feels very light with the Kaili 65 shaft. Without wanting to sound overly confident or arrogant, I would say there is nothing wrong with my grip or technique because I am hitting every other club so well at the moment, broke par a few times recently, with this D2 I would add, it does improve scoring and shows length is less crucial than accuracy. I am wondering should I reshaft, or just give up on it and go for the D3, I have heard many say the D3 is 15+ yards longer for the very same reasons we were losing yards, cos the D2 spins it more. Gaining the yards back and keeping the current D2 accuracy of course is the holy grail all golfers are searching for and either way its an expensive experiment.

    Did you end up reshafting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,865 ✭✭✭TRS30


    Lowering the loft will make the club face more open. So lowering the loft and making the club lie flatter can lead to more shots being lost right (right hander).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,333 ✭✭✭Tones69


    elberry wrote: »
    No. Many drivers are designed open, particularly what they call "Players Drivers" as opposed to Game Improvement Drivers, because some manufacturers claim that many of the better golfers tend to miss more fairways left than right. The Ping i15 and the Mizuno MP-650 are both a degree open-faced as are many of the others, I think Cleveland drivers have an open face, I am not sure about TM, I have never owned a TM driver but MANY of the other popular drivers have an open face as an assistance against hitting it left. With these adjustable drivers you can then reset it closed if you prefer etc, but the open face isn't to do with arcs or any swing-types, is just designed to be anti-left. It definetly worth trying with the 0.25 degrees closed setting unless your main misses do tend to be left.
    Tones I appreciate the advice, I have tried every type of setting, I do keep it a fraction lower when I tee it lower, when I tee it up I am launching this like a wedge, I tend to hit my irons fairly high anyway but never have I launched a driver as high as this. I would say that I am still carrying this driver over the 270 yard marker most of the time, we have a flat 295 yard par 4 that I have often carried the ball to the centre of the green and if I hit a ball with roll it goes through the back. I am always short of the green with the D2. I used play off a fairly low handicap once upon a time. We have a par 5 that I often played a right good drive+6 iron without wind, have been on once with driver wedge and strong wind assistance, my very best drive to date with the D2 has left me 3 iron to the green and that was a real cracker of a drive that I was expecting to leave me with 5 or 6 iron. I am very happy with how accurate this is, which is why I accept the yardage loss, but with either a different shaft or maybe the D3 head I would expect to regain all that lost yardage and still be quite accurate. The club also feels very light with the Kaili 65 shaft. Without wanting to sound overly confident or arrogant, I would say there is nothing wrong with my grip or technique because I am hitting every other club so well at the moment, broke par a few times recently, with this D2 I would add, it does improve scoring and shows length is less crucial than accuracy. I am wondering should I reshaft, or just give up on it and go for the D3, I have heard many say the D3 is 15+ yards longer for the very same reasons we were losing yards, cos the D2 spins it more. Gaining the yards back and keeping the current D2 accuracy of course is the holy grail all golfers are searching for and either way its an expensive experiment.

    Did you end up reshafting.

    If those figures are correct then you're at nothing playing that shaft. You'd be fit into an X flex in driver for sure, but theres so many to choose from ul have to get custom fit. Im around the 265/270 carry mark myself and I played the RIP ALpha 60 X in my R11 and it gave me a lovely flight. Currently playing the Project X 6.5 tipped half an inch in my 910 D3 and also it fits me nice. The D2 head prob doesnt suit ur swing either, its higher launching and higher spinning head than the D3, so something to think about there

    Something doesnt add up though, one post ur saying ur suffering with balooning fades, the next ur saying but theyre still carrynig 270?? Then you're saying uve often broke par and used to play off a very low handicap, dont see how a driver with 0.5 degree open face would cause you such grief to be honest, hard to know though as i dont know you or your game etc so really just clutching at straws


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭elberry


    Tones69 wrote: »
    If those figures are correct then you're at nothing playing that shaft. You'd be fit into an X flex in driver for sure, but theres so many to choose from ul have to get custom fit. Im around the 265/270 carry mark myself and I played the RIP ALpha 60 X in my R11 and it gave me a lovely flight. Currently playing the Project X 6.5 tipped half an inch in my 910 D3 and also it fits me nice. The D2 head prob doesnt suit ur swing either, its higher launching and higher spinning head than the D3, so something to think about there

    The fades were because I had it at the so-called neutral A1 setting but 0.5 degree open face and played for the slight fade, so saying "suffering with fades" isn't exactly right, I should have said the open clubface was forcing me to either play a fade that would launch far too high or try turn the face over a little bit to square it and hit a straight shot that launches far too high. Will probably go for a fitting somewhere, will have to travel for that but in the longrun it probably costs less than experimenting with things that end up in the garage rather than the bag. I have tried using my previous drivers to keep the flight down but nothing hits it as accurate as the D2. X-flex has crossed my mind with these lighter shafts but all my other shafts have always been stiff. I am thinking you are probably right, the D3 is looking attractive to me even though I said I wouldn't be spending anything more on clubs this year, but when you start finding a bit of good form it can change the focus!
    Have you noticed any issue with accuracy D2 v D3? Why did you change the R11?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,333 ✭✭✭Tones69


    elberry wrote: »
    Tones69 wrote: »
    If those figures are correct then you're at nothing playing that shaft. You'd be fit into an X flex in driver for sure, but theres so many to choose from ul have to get custom fit. Im around the 265/270 carry mark myself and I played the RIP ALpha 60 X in my R11 and it gave me a lovely flight. Currently playing the Project X 6.5 tipped half an inch in my 910 D3 and also it fits me nice. The D2 head prob doesnt suit ur swing either, its higher launching and higher spinning head than the D3, so something to think about there

    The fades were because I had it at the so-called neutral A1 setting but 0.5 degree open face and played for the slight fade, so saying "suffering with fades" isn't exactly right, I should have said the open clubface was forcing me to either play a fade that would launch far too high or try turn the face over a little bit to square it and hit a straight shot that launches far too high. Will probably go for a fitting somewhere, will have to travel for that but in the longrun it probably costs less than experimenting with things that end up in the garage rather than the bag. I have tried using my previous drivers to keep the flight down but nothing hits it as accurate as the D2. X-flex has crossed my mind with these lighter shafts but all my other shafts have always been stiff. I am thinking you are probably right, the D3 is looking attractive to me even though I said I wouldn't be spending anything more on clubs this year, but when you start finding a bit of good form it can change the focus!
    Have you noticed any issue with accuracy D2 v D3? Why did you change the R11?

    I havent hit the d2 but basically the differences are, d2 higher launching/spinning but slightly easier to hit. I prefer the smaller head and lower spin/launch. If u wanna come for a round with me you can try my project x shaft

    I still think that getting ur swing more on the inside will sort it out more so than fiddling with settings


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭elberry


    I was listening to more feedback on the Titleist surefit drivers and it was suggested a few times that the shafts play to a softer flex in the Titleist than in a fixed head driver so maybe I will have to demo an X-flex, did anyone have the same issue with the fairway woods?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭elberry


    Tones69 wrote: »
    If those figures are correct then you're at nothing playing that shaft. You'd be fit into an X flex in driver for sure, but theres so many to choose from ul have to get custom fit. Im around the 265/270 carry mark myself and I played the RIP ALpha 60 X in my R11 and it gave me a lovely flight. Currently playing the Project X 6.5 tipped half an inch in my 910 D3 and also it fits me nice. The D2 head prob doesnt suit ur swing either, its higher launching and higher spinning head than the D3, so something to think about there

    Something doesnt add up though, one post ur saying ur suffering with balooning fades, the next ur saying but theyre still carrynig 270?? Then you're saying uve often broke par and used to play off a very low handicap, dont see how a driver with 0.5 degree open face would cause you such grief to be honest, hard to know though as i dont know you or your game etc so really just clutching at straws

    I got the X-flex shaft and it does feel alot better, I was afraid it would feel like the X-flexes of old which were very demanding. I got an Oban Kiyoshi, does feel more solid through the shot, hit a 280 yarder straight into the teeth of the wind today, wish they all went like that!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,238 ✭✭✭✭FixdePitchmark


    Lads - went from a draw setting to A1 position.

    Am I imagining things - or could a ball go further in a fade position on this club.

    Was doing this to make sure my release had not got lazy due to draw setting.

    But ball travelling much further ? - could be imagination. Felt it was a way better connection over 20 drives - any idea - maybe that lie angle suits me - confused. Is it the lie that changes ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭dan_ep82


    I changed mine to A1 over B2 with the pull I've had lately and found very little difference in trajectory.

    I did hit it further than my average today but I think its just down to better form.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,238 ✭✭✭✭FixdePitchmark


    With the draw setting - I found very little draw - but that could be just me.

    It was more a pull.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭dan_ep82


    With the draw setting - I found very little draw - but that could be just me.

    It was more a pull.

    Similar, but I think it was because I was OTT and it was just squaring the face for me.

    It was in the A1 setting today and I was playing most a draw/straight bar a few dog legs right where I tried a fade ( and succeeded :D )

    If anything I seem to be getting a better launch angle, on the B2 setting I found I was launching it lower


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭rollotomasi


    This is an interesting technical report about adjustable drivers:

    http://wishongolf.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/adjustable-hosel-drivers.pdf


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,238 ✭✭✭✭FixdePitchmark


    Before I read that article - to add - I put the driver on draw setting about 6 months ago - and felt I had lost a good bit of distance over last while.

    I was thinking must be swing - but I'm beginning to think it was driver setting - will see.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭kieran.


    Bought a D3 9.5 910 recently and after about 2000 balls on the range I really think the A1 is the best by some way for initial launch, ball flight control and dispersion. Everything is better in A1 IMHO


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,238 ✭✭✭✭FixdePitchmark


    I've got the 910 d2 - I think ? The hosel on the 913 is a different concept ?

    I was struggling with a slice - so went away from A1.

    Interesting looking at that piece that the Titliest - 913 never has a closed face in any position.

    I'n hindsight - well even at the time , I was questioning the idea of changing the setting at all. Particularly if you are getting lessons or working on your game. You are sort of fooling yourself with the variability of the feedback from ball flight.

    That r1 - is some machine - number of settings on it (lol)


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