mooring

Ned_led16

wanna put a mooring down i have a spot:

Can u use an anchor also in case your worried about it?

Is it safe enough to just wack the concrete in to the tyre and put the chain end into the concrete leave it set for a week?? no steel needed.

does the spot have to be rocky so it wont drag - opposed to sand - best surface

fergal.b

1) If you use an anchor aswel you run the chance of them getting tangled plus a mooring works like a shock absorber where an anchor is fixed with no give.

2) You need the right amount of concrete for your boat eg 500 lbs for a 17 -20 foot boat and 1000 lbs for 21 - 24. There will have to be a swivel shackle at the block if you just put the chain in it will shorten as it twists up pulling the boat down, from the swivel you will need 1.5 times the maximum depth of the water of heavy chain then from that a lighter chain equal to the max depth up to the buoy.

3) Sand is best as the weight will sink in over time and hold fast where on rocks it will just move around. If there are rocks near make sure you check the swing of the mooring in all directions at low tide add in the draft of the boat,waves and swells to be sure of not hitting them also check the swing of any boat close to you at low tide so you don't end up hitting each other.

Ned_led16

u da man Fergal!

would a jeep tyre filled with concorette come to 500 lb approx - prob be grand eh

breghall

Ned_led16 wrote: »

u da man Fergal!

would a jeep tyre filled with concorette come to 500 lb approx - prob be grand eh

Wouldn't think so, 500lbs in approx 230kg which is nearly 1/4 ton weight, so you're looking more towards a lorry tyre than a jeep tyre IMO.

Ned_led16

(Q1) Where can i get 2 x 45 liter drums to float a tyre full of concorete?
in Cork?

(Q2) Mooring length whats the formula..is this right - where i wanna sink the tyre its 3m on low water and 4m of tide comes in i assume- then u plus 1... or do you do all that and multiply by 1.5

I reckon i have about 8m - 3.5 in chain and 4.5 in rope! i suppose if the length is too short i can always wack another shackle on and some chain eh

boats = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

ISAW

Are you using fore and aft or swinging?

If yu moor fore and aft you can run the lines to a tyre and another line from the other side oif a tyreand use that as a shock absorber.

think about hard plastic- like a hose or gas pipe or an old bicycle tube or fire hose - around the end that comes into the prow to prevent chaffing on the hull from a chain or to stop a rope fraying from rubbing against edges.

a rough idea of weight -concrete i think is about the same as stone i.e. about three times as dense as water
It can droip to two times depends on whether you add gravel or sand etc.
Look here
http://www.reade.com/Particle_Briefings/spec_gra2.html

so if it is 2.5 it will weigh 2.5 times e. g a 200 liter drum with a 2.5 mix will weigh 500kg
or 600 kg solid concrete.

so if you know how much water would fill it you can work out the weight water is 1kg per litre.

ISAW

Ned_led16 wrote: »

u da man Fergal!

would a jeep tyre filled with concorette come to 500 lb approx - prob be grand eh

Jeep tyre inside edge I = Pi r squared tiles avg thickness
Outside edge O = Pi R squared times ave thickness

r= radius to inside edge
R= radius to outside edge

the volume of water/concrete in the tyre is O-I
Times its specific gravity gives weight.

fergal.b

This may help you a bit. With the kind of weight you will be dealing with I think it would safer to pay a few quid for a trawler with an open back to drop the mooring for you.

Ned_led16

Yup a trawler would be a good idea! if done wrong your rsiking your life - hate to get snagged on the rope around the wrist! horror show! jaysus you dont want the little one growing up without a Daddy!

So whats the formula for length - low tide level + high water level plus 1?

fergal.b

If the water is 4m at high tide then you need 4m of light chain and 6m of the heavy.

breghall

[QUOTE

boats = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$[/QUOTE]

Boat = Bring out another thousand .......... or so i've always been told.

Brother in law in NZ says that down there the saying is " buy a boat and go .....broke":D

ISAW

breghall wrote: »

[QUOTE

boats = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Boat = Bring out another thousand .......... or so i've always been told.

Brother in law in NZ says that down there the saying is " buy a boat and go .....broke":D[/QUOTE]

i like " a boat is a hole in the water into which you pour money"

Tabnabs

breghall wrote: »

[QUOTE

boats = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Boat = Bring out another thousand .......... or so i've always been told.

Brother in law in NZ says that down there the saying is " buy a boat and go .....broke":D[/QUOTE]

Is that NZ with one of the highest boat/population ratio in the world?!

Ned_led16

I think the harbour master in Kinsale said that you take low water and add high water multiply by 1.5 and plus 1 - unless i m mistaken.

3 Lw
+
4.2 hw
x
1.5
+1

= 11.8m

2m is quite a 25% discrepancy between your calculation and mine fergal - is just a diff of opinion or whats the craic-

On low water if u use a 10m calculation of length from your mooring buoy to the concorette block on the sea bed - that mooring will swing a circle circumference of ?

Yup its a swinging mooring

Ned_led16

ok lads i bought sand but should i really mix with gravekl or will a few stones and rocks do - dont wanna do a 2 hr round trip to change sand for gravel - or will it be worth while in the long run

also the fekin magnetic trailor lights fell off - the bit broke that connects to the van so i bought a new one fror 3 squids! there are 6 inputs on the circular stainless stell yoke that goes intop the van - but there are 5 input wires color coded not numbered - so unless i figure it opn line b4 someone posts ! nice wan

thanks wise ones from the novice
after all this help ill have to pass on all the knowledge to fellow boaters down the line when i know what im doing!

fergal.b

Go with a concrete mix not sand and cememt as it will just crack and break apart, you can put a few stones in but not too many as they can also cause a weak spot if they are too close together.

or

ISAW

Ned_led16 wrote: »

On low water if u use a 10m calculation of length from your mooring buoy to the concorette block on the sea bed - that mooring will swing a circle circumference of ?

Yup its a swinging mooring

i think the lowest/highest tides of the year are 9th april and 17th Oct.

so get a move on or take your time.

Ned_led16

ISAW wrote: »

i think the lowest/highest tides of the year are 9th april and 17th Oct.
so get a move on or take your time.

The concorette has been hydrating since Sundy night - and we might drop it wed if its hardened enough! the s[pot is marked! my buddys a rock climbing instructor and power boating instructor so hes gonna help tieing the barrells and cut the line and drop it!

I was told the floor is very sandy and prone to slips:
What i should have done was put 4 handfulls of straight sand in the bottom of the tyre or a washing machine lid so it creates a vacume when it hits the ground!!! dam it but good for anyone else in the process!

As thats to late i was told to connect a half anchor 3ft chain and a shackle so it doesnt slip on the floor bed by a local.

It interesting spotting locations for it - my old fella is in his sixties and id like to keep him dry getting to the boat - as there is no marina or wharf etc it might be a high tide job or else maybe i should pick up those waders in lidl for 20 squids...ok grand get wet but its good keep passengers dry and comfortable

Ned_led16

so im not sure about dropping the mooring with an anchor attached to it - as it might not sit right on the sea bed

I was thinkinng instead ...what do u think....
As the local lad said the moorings slip as the bed is sand until it sets after a year ... how about just dropping the anchor and connecting to the mooring also? with at least 10 m length?? is there anything wrong with that??

thanks in advance

Daibheid

Ned_led16 wrote: »

so im not sure about dropping the mooring with an anchor attached to it - as it might not sit right on the sea bed

I was thinkinng instead ...what do u think....
As the local lad said the moorings slip as the bed is sand until it sets after a year ... how about just dropping the anchor and connecting to the mooring also? with at least 10 m length?? is there anything wrong with that??

thanks in advance

I heard this advice years ago about a mooring in Oysterhaven. The short steep chop can jump the mooring block just enough for the waves to walk it along. You're right about dropping hte lot together- Murphy's law says the anchor will land under the block or in the wrong place. You want it set out to seaward into the prevailing wind/tide. The best way is to set it afterward by hand. If the mooring moves it will really set iteself then, if it doesn't then you never needed the extra insurance.