Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

WC Build

  • 07-03-2012 1:40am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭


    Just placed this order with Specialtech. Other than the Rad(out of stock) and the GPU block(Purchasing from Adverts.ie) is there anything I'm missing?

    (1)Laing D5 (Alphacool VPP655-T12) Variable Speed 12V Pump.
    (2)XSPC Rasa CPU Waterblock Intel 1366, 1156, 1155, 775.
    (3)1/4" Thread Compression Fitting for 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Tubing x12.
    (4)Pulse Modding 99.9% Silver Kill Coil.
    (5)Primochill Myriad Dual Bay Reservoir with Laing D5 Housing.
    (6)Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD (13-19mm).
    (7)Akasa Apache Super Silent 120mm PWM Fan x3.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    The pump you've selected won't work with compressions out of the box. You can either add two clamps to your cart (cheaper), or you can add a replacement top for the pump that will work with 1/2-3/4 compressions (expensive, but will match the rest of your loop).

    If you want to go the top route, ST actually sells a bundle with a top. If it's not too late, you might be able to change the order to include this instead.

    http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-VPP655--Laing-D5-with-D5-High-Flow-Acetal-Top--VPP655D5-pid-13115.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Is there any other pump top i could use as the one you've linked to is out of stock. Cheers.

    Edit: Maybe this one here? http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-D5-X-Top-Rev2-for-Laing-D5-Pumps--Acetal-pid-7664.html

    Edit again!! My order shipped as I was in the process of doing up the support ticket so I won't be able to change it at this stage. Is there anywhere local I could get a pump top or the clamps? I'm also getting the Phobya 1080 Rad. Will this require any special fittings?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭deceit


    With that pump he wont need any clips, its a pain to get tubing on but once its on it aint coming off by itself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,924 ✭✭✭✭ShadowHearth


    Jesus, can we stop saying "WC" instead of water cooling? every single time ( even if i know what it stands for in here ) i go WTF?!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    @Nelios, yeah, that's the other WC top I would have recommended for you, it's the same WC pump top that I use.

    @Deceit, given that those clamps are only about 50c each, I'd get a couple and stick them on the pump. Better to be safe than sorry.

    (None of the above post was meant, in any way whatsoever, to be a jab at Shadowhearth)

    :D


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Ok so here's the final list. Is there anything else I need for connecting the GPU block or the Rad to the tubing or will the compression fittings do the job there. I've thrown in a few other fittings that i probably won't need but they're cheap so what harm.

    (1) Laing D5 (Alphacool VPP655-T12) Variable Speed 12V Pump.
    (2) XSPC Rasa CPU Waterblock Intel 1366, 1156, 1155, 775.
    (3) 1/4" Thread Compression Fitting for 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Tubing x12.
    (4) Pulse Modding 99.9% Silver Kill Coil.
    (5) Primochill Myriad Dual Bay Reservoir with Laing D5 Housing.
    (6) Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD (13-19mm).
    (7) Akasa Apache Super Silent 120mm PWM Fan x3.
    (8) Phobya 1080 Rad.
    (9) EK D5 X-Top Rev.2 for Laing D5 Pumps.
    (10) Zinc Plated Worm Drive Hose Clip for 3/4" (19mm) Outer Diameter Tubing. x4
    (11) EK-FC-580 GTX Acetal+Nickel water block.
    (12) 1/4" Thread High Flow Barb Fitting for 1/2" (13mm) ID Tubing x2

    I think that's it. Thanks again for all the help folks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Barb fittings? If you have the top for the pump you can just use compressions.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Yeah they're only a couple of Euro so i figured i might as well get them while I'm getting the other stuff. The ones you gave me a link to are out of stock so i went with these ones. I'm only getting 2 and I might never use them but at least I won't be left wanting for them at some stage in the future.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,924 ✭✭✭✭ShadowHearth


    Serephucus wrote: »
    @Nelios, yeah, that's the other WC top I would have recommended for you, it's the same WC pump top that I use.

    @Deceit, given that those clamps are only about 50c each, I'd get a couple and stick them on the pump. Better to be safe than sorry.

    (None of the above post was meant, in any way whatsoever, to be a jab at Shadowhearth)

    :D

    I see what you did there :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    I forgot to mention I have the 3Gb version of the GTX580. Will I need to get some extra thermal pads for the extra VRMs and Memory ICs?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Link to the card?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Nope, the 3GB EVGA card just uses higher density RAM chips, so the standard block has everything you need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Great, Cheers. Now it's time to play the waiting game!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,128 ✭✭✭game4it70


    If your going to mount the pump to that res you wont need the Ek top.

    Also there has been problems plasticizer leeching from that tubing lately but maybe only in USA.
    Large thread here about it.
    http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/severe-plasticizer-in-primochill-lrt
    Dont get the Masterkleer clear tubing as i did and it was cloudy within 2 weeks.:mad:

    You should only need 8 compression fittings if only using 2 blocks,the res with pump and the rad.
    Plan your tubing route before you order just in case you might need 45 or 90 degree fittings as would be a pain having to wait for a new order if there needed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Well my water cooling is all up and running.

    Just one quick question though.

    At idle my CPU temp is ~33°c and my GPU is ~22°c. On IBT my CPU reaches ~66°c. Given that my i5 2500k isn't overclocked yet are these not a bit on the high side? I'm using the XSPC RASA block and I've got the "in" and "out" connections the correct way around. The only thing is I have the block upside down (if you go by the logo on it) would this have a bearing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Nope, that won't make a difference. What sort of fans and thermal paste are you using? Did you screw down the block fully?

    Your GPU temperatures definitely sound about right though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    I'm using 3 Akasa Apache fans on the 1080 rad, thermal paste is arctic cooling MX-4 and the block seems to be as tight as it will go. Core #2 is down around 26°c at idle whilst cores #0 and #1 are around 33°c could it be that i don't have enough paste?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Doubtful. On average, nine out of ten people will have too much. I don't rally know how hot those processors get. Mine stays cooler than that, but mine doesn't half the bloody Northbridge integrated onto it. Hopefully one of the others will a WCed 2500K will post their temps. Mine is quite different, so it wouldn't help much, but it sounds within the realms of normality, so odds are you're not too far off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Well i decided to re apply the thermal paste. Then i discovered something unusual. Turns out this is an important step in the installation process. Who would of thought it!! :mad: Temps are now around 27.

    [IMG][/img]6980048779_f98f66c2ae_z.jpg IMG_20120313_194717 by neilos2012, on Flickr


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    LOL

    Just LOL

    Glad you got it sorted though. :)

    Now: Overclock that f*cker!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,979 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    temps are 27 at load?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Idle. Load will probably be about 55/45 CPU/GPU.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭deceit


    Them temps for sandybridge seem pretty warm.
    My 2500k at 4.7ghz never went over 59deg's running prime for 5hours so I would be a little concerned with the temps on that cpu.
    Put a mild overclock on it and see what it does too temps.
    Mine idled between 24-27degs and these figures where obtained from a 360 rad with push fans and also another 360 rad directly beside it so air had to be pushed through both.
    Edit:
    Just refreshed after I posted this, had it open from when I got in from work so never noticed the picture and posts below it :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Prime isn't nearly as stressful as IBT, so 66°C isn't so bad (great even, considering that was with MX-Plastic thermal paste :P) Give IBT a go for a better baseline. Five passes at max should do it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭deceit


    Serephucus wrote: »
    Prime isn't nearly as stressful as IBT, so 66°C isn't so bad (great even, considering that was with MX-Plastic thermal paste :P) Give IBT a go for a better baseline. Five passes at max should do it.

    My i5 is gone and has been replaced with an 8150, just waiting on raystorm bracket for amd, can give it a go on that see how it fairs :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Damn you, I might have taken that from you. :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    I'm in work for the night now so it'll be tomorrow before I can find out what my base temps are for my CPU. I spent an hour on BF3 on ultra earlier and the GPU only hit about 40°c, it was up in the 80's on air so I'm delighted with that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,979 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    agreeing with deceit here. my 2500K idles around 25-30 (depending on room temp, which is fairly warm) and after a few hours of BF3 i hit 60C.

    im running it at 4.6Ghz on a cheapish air cooler, with half a 6990 blowing into its fins.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Okay round two!!

    Idle temps are ~28°c room temp is ~22°c.

    Five passes on IBT on maximum and the highest I hit was 47°c and that was for a split second, average temps were between 38°c and 43°c. Thats a bit better than averaging 66°c don't you think!! Amazing what a difference a thin plastic film can make! :o

    The fans are hardly spinning at all at the minute so I'm going to set them up to spin a bit faster, hopefully I'll loose another degree or two.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭deceit


    With them teperatures there is no need to increase the fans, just adding noise for no reason.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Try turn the fans off, then see what your temps are. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Well I've started down the road of overclocking. It's a lot easier than i thought, especially with the ASUS UEFI interface. So far this are the clocks/ voltages I'm looking at. I haven't tested any of them extensively but I'm going to give the 4.6ghz a full stress test as it looks to be the best option. Any thoughts? I've given each of them 10 passes on maximum IBT and about 20 mins of small FFT's on P95.

    4.5GHZ/ 1.30v; max 58°c,
    4.6GHZ/ 1.35v; max 65°c,
    4.7GHZ/ 1.40v; max 70°c,

    The temps are from the IBT tests, P95 temps are about 10 degrees lower.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,979 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    Neilos wrote: »
    Well I've started down the road of overclocking. It's a lot easier than i thought, especially with the ASUS UEFI interface. So far this are the clocks/ voltages I'm looking at. I haven't tested any of them extensively but I'm going to give the 4.6ghz a full stress test as it looks to be the best option. Any thoughts? I've given each of them 10 passes on maximum IBT and about 20 mins of small FFT's on P95.

    4.5GHZ/ 1.30v; max 58°c,
    4.6GHZ/ 1.35v; max 65°c,
    4.7GHZ/ 1.40v; max 70°c,

    The temps are from the IBT tests, P95 temps are about 10 degrees lower.
    Your voltages are too high. 4.6Ghz should be achievable with under 1.3v
    Mines at 1.288v

    it will drop your temps down pretty dramatically too.

    I'd do 20 passes of extreme IBT, and play your most CPU intensive game for 2-3hours. if it passes all those, your good to go.

    i also wouldnt suggest ever going over 1.35v/65°C for long periods of time. games run alot colder than IBT though.
    some of the better chips do better voltages too. NMTK has an 2500K clocked @ 4.8ghz @1.22v


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    Even at 1.33v I'm getting BSOD at 4.6ghz so there's no chance of me getting it down to 1.3v. Are you using EFI BIOS? Maybe there's something I'm missing settings wise.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,979 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    Neilos wrote: »
    Even at 1.33v I'm getting BSOD at 4.6ghz so there's no chance of me getting it down to 1.3v. Are you using EFI BIOS? Maybe there's something I'm missing settings wise.
    yea. im using an Asrock Z68 Extreme4.

    what Mobo you using? is that fixed voltage or offset?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Could just be a really hungry chip too. You'd have to be pretty unlucky to get a chip that bad, but it probably plays a part.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,979 ✭✭✭Tea_Bag


    Serephucus wrote: »
    Could just be a really hungry chip too. You'd have to be pretty unlucky to get a chip that bad, but it probably plays a part.
    i dont think its that uncommon. looking at the stock voltages for the 2500K, shows it varies between 1.00v - 1.322v from chip to chip. i just havent seen one myself with a voltage over 1.2v stock.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Bloodwing


    I'm using the ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3. Voltage is set to manual and I'm inputting 1.35 as the cpu manual voltage. Other than that I've only changed the multiplier to 46 on all cores. I've also tried it with CPU spread spectrum enabled and disabled because apparently this can have an effect on stability.


Advertisement