Landcruiser Questions

newmug

Hi folks.

My bog standard clutch in my 99 Landcruiser is nearly gone. Its been in it since new, has done 206,000 miles, and its time to retire it. I just hope I havent done damage by leaving it in so long.

So I asked my local Toyota main dealers, and my local motor factors about clutch prices, and specifically if they could come up with something a bit better than your bog-standard one, as I do a lot of mullucking and pulling and dragging with this yoke (previous owner never had a trailer on it, hence longer than usual clutch life). So here's what I got in response:


Toyota standard clutch E130, but E500 to fit.
Motor factors Blue-Print clutch, E350
Motor factors Exede clutch, E480


Now I know I'll get it fitted for way less with a non-main dealer mechanic, but which of these should I go for? I always thought Exede were for rallying etc., ie very jerky and best suited to high speeds?

CJhaughey

The Exedy clutches have 2 versions for 4x4's there is a Safari version and a normal version.
Safari is not available for the 90 series here, you might get one in Oz but postage will kill you.

Fishtits

I'm in the trade, needed a clutch for my Jap 4x4.

Rang several suppliers, the price difference was horrendous.

I could get a kit for 110 from the cheapest to 280 from Exedy.

You get what you pay for basically...

Exedy kit in my machine, Irish, solid flywheel. Made well, works a treat.

CJhaughey

Are you saying the OEM Toyota clutch is ****e?
My KZJ90 has 273k miles on the original clutch and its still capable of towing no problem.
I will replace it with another OEM clutch when it needs it.
Exedy are good, as are Blueprint, as are OEM for stock clutches. Uprated ones are a different story.

newmug

Fishtits wrote: »

Exedy kit in my machine, Irish, solid flywheel. Made well, works a treat.

Exedy are Irish? And thgis might sound stupid, but what do you mean by solid flywheel?

CJhaughey wrote: »

Exedy are good, as are Blueprint, as are OEM for stock clutches. Uprated ones are a different story.

What do you mean by "uprated"?

roryq69

I have an 07 lwb landcruiser and i think the outside temp gauge is reading wrong. Can anyone tell me where the sensor is so i can clean it or replace it if necessary?

roryq69

What grade oil goes in to the 4x4 transfer box in an 07 landcruiser? Is there anything i should be changing along with the oil?

101sean

Merged your threads Rory, there's a couple of 'cruiser experts on here so hopefully you'll get an answer.

I'll try and keep this thread going in a similar way the Defender and Discovery ones have for Landcruiser problems (don't think there will be as many posts though! :rolleyes:)

CJhaughey

I think the spec is 75w-90 for the transfer & gearbox. 80w-90 for the Diffs.
I would definately change the front diff oil while you are doing the rest.
I run the best synthetic diff oil I can find, its cheap insurance for the front diff which has a small oil capacity and works quite hard and hot.

CJhaughey

newmug wrote: »

Exedy are Irish? And thgis might sound stupid, but what do you mean by solid flywheel?

Exedy are Japanese, and solid flywheel means its not a dual mass flywheel that can give trouble after a while.

newmug wrote: »

What do you mean by "uprated"?

Uprated is heavy duty, stronger pressure plate and/or driven plate

redzerologhlen

I only have one reversing light in the back of my 00 swb landcruiser. I reckoned there should be 2 but the mechanic said there is only one in them. Just wondering if there should be 2 because theres very bad light off the one by itself...

greysides

redzerologhlen wrote: »

I only have one reversing light in the back of my 00 swb landcruiser. I reckoned there should be 2 but the mechanic said there is only one in them. Just wondering if there should be 2 because theres very bad light off the one by itself...

I've the same problem, there's only one. It's a complete disaster for reversing at night especially with the LWB.

Unbelievable in an otherwise well designed machine.

You could look into the possibility of putting an LED bulb into the vacant space.

If I had a Defender it would look well with a work light on the back but a LC won't and I don't want lights hanging down under the bumper. In fact, if I had a Series LR I'd have wired it up and installed myself already.

In time I may investigate the LED thing myself. I'd also put parking/brake lights in above too. Bloody penny-pinchers!!:mad:

redzerologhlen

greysides wrote: »

I've the same problem, there's only one. It's a complete disaster for reversing at night especially with the LWB.

Unbelievable in an otherwise well designed machine.

You could look into the possibility of putting an LED bulb into the vacant space.

If I had a Defender it would look well with a work light on the back but a LC won't and I don't want lights hanging down under the bumper. In fact, if I had a Series LR I'd have wired it up and installed myself already.

In time I may investigate the LED thing myself. I'd also put parking/brake lights in above too. Bloody penny-pinchers!!:mad:

Bollox anyway, was hoping it was just a bulb gone, the light is terrible out of it!!

101sean

Try LED bulbs as greysides suggests, should be brighter without the danger of melting the light unit.

You can get thin flush mount LED floodlights now, not particularly cheap though.

doctorchopper

is your back window tinted, that makes a big difference in the light too.

CJhaughey

Blame EU rules for the lights on the 90 series being poor, Japanese and ROW market vehicles have the body lights functional.
There is some EU directive that states that if the rear door is open and it obscures the lights then you must fit bumper mounted ones.
The body mount are mostly dummy lights the real indicators/stop/tail lights are in the bumper.
Check out Prados they have reflectors in the bumper instead!
High output LEDs are great for reverse lights, go to a commercial truck repair place for them.

redzerologhlen

doctorchopper wrote: »

is your back window tinted, that makes a big difference in the light too.

No, To be honest I normally use the mirrors when im reversing anyway, you can see feck all out the back window on a good day.

CJhaughey wrote: »

Blame EU rules for the lights on the 90 series being poor, Japanese and ROW market vehicles have the body lights functional.
There is some EU directive that states that if the rear door is open and it obscures the lights then you must fit bumper mounted ones.
The body mount are mostly dummy lights the real indicators/stop/tail lights are in the bumper.
Check out Prados they have reflectors in the bumper instead!
High output LEDs are great for reverse lights, go to a commercial truck repair place for them.

Thanks for that man. Would a normal motor factors have them bulbs?

101sean

The bigger ones may have but commercial/agri motor factors usually stock a better range and charge less.

Best place for them round my way is a little backstreet auto electrical repair workshop!

TrailerBob

I put tail lights into the blanks on mine a while back. makes a huge difference to visibilty of the jeep while towing trailers. It's pretty simple, as all the wiring is actually there behind the light units. Just need to drill out the plastic and insert a bulb holder. On the drivers side the foglight is now a 21/5w bulb, so it does both.




Next job is to put working lamps into the clear lenses at the top.

redzerologhlen

TrailerBob wrote: »

I put tail lights into the blanks on mine a while back. makes a huge difference to visibilty of the jeep while towing trailers. It's pretty simple, as all the wiring is actually there behind the light units. Just need to drill out the plastic and insert a bulb holder. On the drivers side the foglight is now a 21/5w bulb, so it does both.




Next job is to put working lamps into the clear lenses at the top.

Thats a fine looking job bob in fairness. I have seen an odd one with those lights working before and the werent the prado models. Often wondered how they did it, Never realised the lights were there. Where did you get the bulb holders for it as a matter of interest? Did you wire up a second reversing light to the other side??

TrailerBob

Got a pair from eBay actually, but a decent motor factors should have them, didn't do tge reversing lamp as I was thinking of connecting work lights off the reversing switch too.

CJhaughey

The dummy lights in the body have the holes already marked out to cut out!
Toyota rear bulb holders fit them, check a scrapyard/breakers.
Most people who fit them use a step drill to drill the hole and a stanley to cut the notches out.
The loom runs back to the lights so all you need is the lampholders.
If you want to be flash, you can buy the whole lamp loom
part numbers:
81555-60490 LHS
81565069490 RHS
all you need to do then is drill the holes and fit the bulbs.

greysides

Thanks CJ and Trailer Bob. Exactly what I needed to know. Is the story the same for the blank reversing light?

CJhaughey

You will have two reversing lights if you fit those looms.
Top of the cluster is indicators, middles are reverse and bottoms are taillights.
You may need to set the bumper mount up as a foglight.

greysides

Thanks CJ.

redzerologhlen

Do you have to take off the whole lamp to do this, there is no way I can get my hand in behind it to get it out..

CJhaughey

redzerologhlen wrote: »

Do you have to take off the whole lamp to do this, there is no way I can get my hand in behind it to get it out..

Only one screw on top and carefully pop the whole light unit out.

redzerologhlen

CJhaughey wrote: »

Only one screw on top and carefully pop the whole light unit out.

Thanks cj!!

dp639

Hi,
When we press down on the clutch pedal we are getting a squeaking from the underside of the vehicle. Whether or not it is in gear the result is the same. I took the front passenger wheel off and removed the plastic trim and can see the part moving back and forth near the housing for the clutch. There is a grease nipple at this location and I've put in some grease but so far it has made no difference?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

Slidey

I think this is a common noise, I hear it in a lot of them.

I once tried a shot of spray grease on the sleeve the release bearing slides on. It seemed to help it a bit. There is a rubber boot on the bell housing that allows you to get a bit of access.

You sure it was a grease nipple and not a bleed screw you were looking at?

dp639

Thanks Slidey,
Great seems like you have seen the same issue as I have.

I assumed it was a grease nipple as the gun fitted onto it. But if a bleed screw is the same as a grease nipple then yes maybe it was a bleed screw.

I'll take another look at it maybe tonight or tomorrow night and take a picture to show you where I am looking.

Cheers!

dp639

Hi,
No more squeaking clutch. I pulled back the boot and got some WD into it as shown in the photo.

You can also see the grease nipple in the photo - or maybe its not a grease nipple.

Thanks for the top tip on the release bearing!

Cheers!

Slidey

That's the bleed screw!

You put the oil on the slave cylinder. Not the place I was thinking. I took a pic of a landcruiser box yesterday for ya but it was the newer model box going by your pics.

dp639

Cheers,
Yes I thought when you wrote about the boot on the bell housing that I was in a slightly different place to you. I could hear the squeak was definitely coming from what I now know is the slave cylinder.

Would I have caused any harm attempting to put grease into the bleed screw? That bleed screw is used for what exactly?

Mine's a 2003 by the way.

Once again, many thanks.

Slidey

No harm, the bleed screw was closed so it will have done nothing.

The rubber boot to the very right of your picture, if you pull that aside you might be able to see the shaft the bearing slides on. I'll get a pic the next time I have a model the same as yours in on the lift.

Make sure you put the boot back in its place on the slave cylinder to stop crap gettin in there

hjoeboy

Apologies if this has been asked before but Im looking at trading in my 03 pajero against an 06/07 landcruiser. I know some of these were re called, but not all.The one Im looking at has not had the injectors done.

So my question is should it have had them done and why wasnt this one re called? Will they give trouble down the line?

Also, what are the clutches like on these? This one has 69k miles on it.

Anything else to look out for?

Cheers!

hiluxman

so far as i know the injectors seals leaked carbon deposits which get carried by the oil to the sump and eventually block the gauze in the oil pump and starve the engine of oil, i could be wrong but i think this is what happens

if you bring it to a toyota dealer and ask them to check it for recalls, if its due a recall they will do it for free, if its not due a recall this problem doesnt apply to ur 'cruiser

I always found the clutches to be good but it depends how hard you are on it, 69k miles is very small miles for a cruiser

hjoeboy

thanks for the info. Yea as far as i know, this man has a second car so the jeep was only used for tipping around hence the low mileage. She needs 4 new tires though but so does my pajero!

I think I'll go for it. Im a bit unsure about moving from a swb to a lwb though, more awkward???

101sean

Suspect you'll soon get used to it and the ride will be a bit better.

TrailerBob

SWB is a bit jumpy alright. LWB is a better drive, especially if there's a bit of weight over the rear axle. Commercial can be a bit crashy over the bumps when empty but still pretty civilised for a proper 4x4. Not a bad handler either, again, relatively speaking.

richiet

Just for info,

I had heard about a recall on the Landcruiser oil strainer/injector issue so I called into my local Toyota dealer. Mine is an '05 with 137k kms so wasn't sure what they'd say. They said they were replacing the oil strainer and inspecting the injectors.

It was done today. Oil strainer replaced, new injector seals, oil change with new oil filter.

Worth checking out if you have a Landcruiser.

stevie_b

Is a little bit of sideways play in the clutch pedal normal? (clutch pressure is fine, and it is driving fine). Can this be 'fixed'?

vetstu

Are the front doors of the LWB and SWB 07 models the same size. Looking for wind deflectors and the lwb ones are a bit cheaper.

colm_mcm

Far as I remember, theyre all the same. Get ones that stick on the outside, as oppose to jam in the rubbers, as the european cruiser has auto up windows, which aren't compatible with those type deflectors

vetstu

colm_mcm wrote: »

Far as I remember, theyre all the same. Get ones that stick on the outside, as oppose to jam in the rubbers, as the european cruiser has auto up windows, which aren't compatible with those type deflectors

Thanks for that.

I have the ones that jam in on the auris at the min and they work grand with the auto up windows, theres a slight nudge at the very top, but no bother otherwise.

newmug

Hi all. I have a 90 series Landcruiser. The turbo gives this annoying whistling noise constantly. Is that normal? I've never driven another Landcruiser so I dont know if its normal or if there's something wrong with mine.

blue5000

Just to go back to clutches, does anybody else change up gears on their cruiser without using the clutch? I nearly always do it, just jab the accelerator before taking it out of gear, then quickly change gear with foot off the accelerator. Old habits die hard:cool:. I don't do it with a trailer though.

Slidey

Can you not do it coming down as well? :cool:

blue5000

Ya but it's a bit harder to do. I'd have to rev it again when in neutral after pulling it out of the higher gear. It doesn't always change as smoothly as going up a gear.

101sean

Driven Land Rovers with blown clutch hydraulics for fair distances without too much bother apart from the odd crunch. Old fashioned truck drivers would think we're all amateurs though

Any one any thoughts on Newmug's whistling turbo before it gets forgotten?

blue5000

could be not enough or no oil getting to the turbo bearing, is there any oil leak near it?