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Changing from dry dog food to raw/barf

  • 24-11-2011 7:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 146 ✭✭


    Following on from the orijen food thread, I am looking at changing our two on to raw/barf foods.
    We have two (mad) vizslas, Fizzy is 13 months, the young lad, Digger is 12 weeks, fizzy has been on royal canin from we got her and digger has been started on pro-plan puppy, I have just about enough dry food to do the two of them to after Christmas, and am looking to get them on to the same food so no better time to change over to raw/Barf.

    I think getting started is the hardest thing to do...maybe I'm just over thinking it, (or not thinking).. how much to feed? What to feed? What not to feed?? What can the pup eat? What's the difference between Barf and raw?
    Has anyone any experience with the above or can anyone recommend any good sites/books to look up.

    Thanks,
    K.

    (Apologies if this has been done to death here!)


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,047 ✭✭✭are you serious


    I was literally thinking of posting the same thread!! I went today to buy what I hope will be my(their) last bag of food now that I have made the decision that it will be the last bag.

    I am thinking the same thing that getting started is the hardest anyway...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭Bullseye1


    Excuse my ignorance but what is "barf"?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,047 ✭✭✭are you serious


    I suppose it should be put as B.A.R.F

    It stands for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, basically meat and bones and a few vegetables all put together to give the dog the best diet possible, no additives or extra's!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    When I was thinking of switching my lot over I bought a little book by Carina Beth MacDonald - Raw dog food
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Raw-Dog-Food-Making-Work/dp/1929242093/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1322167311&sr=1-1

    It's dead easy to read and breaks the raw diet up into easy information. Mine went on raw food the week after I read that and have been great ever since.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭Bullseye1


    I think I'll give this a try in the new year. I've enough dry food until then.


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    Dogsfirst who posts here has some super info on his site www.dogsfirst.ie. The site is under development but there is a link to a nice chunk of info on the whole home-made food area.
    I feel the usual barf recommendations are rather rigid and a bit off-putting as a result, but I find dogsfirst's approach is more relaxed, makes more sense (to me anyway!) and works well. I know many barf owners are moving towards this more relaxed, holistic approach, because it is easier. It also confirms that it's okay to lightly cook the food if you prefer, which I do.
    I think I've read it right anyway, maybe dogsfirst will come along and clarify!
    Great to hear you're all making the leap, you won't regret it!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭Bullseye1


    Is there any info on how to protect gums with this type of diet? Is it similar to dry food?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    I feed raw bones so crunching the bones helps keep their teeth and gums healthy. My lot's teeth are actually cleaner than they were on dry food.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭ppink


    Just for those of you considering feeding raw I recently got 30kg of raw chicken Pet food from a poultry company for €16. I was amazed at the quality of it, lots of meat, some bone.
    In the supermarkets a 1.3kg chicken is 3.49..so about 2.68/kg, from the factory direct it worked out at 53c/kg.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    ppink wrote: »
    Just for those of you considering feeding raw I recently got 30kg of raw chicken Pet food from a poultry company for €16. I was amazed at the quality of it, lots of meat, some bone.
    In the supermarkets a 1.3kg chicken is 3.49..so about 2.68/kg, from the factory direct it worked out at 53c/kg.

    Bloody hell that's good value! Does it come in one huge frozen lump though?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,158 ✭✭✭FoxyVixen


    ppink wrote: »
    Just for those of you considering feeding raw I recently got 30kg of raw chicken Pet food from a poultry company for €16. I was amazed at the quality of it, lots of meat, some bone.
    In the supermarkets a 1.3kg chicken is 3.49..so about 2.68/kg, from the factory direct it worked out at 53c/kg.

    Do they deliver? Would love more info how to get in touch with them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,047 ✭✭✭are you serious


    Where was that from ppink??


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 919 ✭✭✭Shanao


    The things that have put me off changing over to RAW are the price and trying to work out how much to feed. Does anyone have a general idea of how much it would cost to feed a 60kg 14month old, a 45kg 10month old, and a 10kg five month old pup a week? And how much each one would need a day? Although at the moment I'm considering doing a half dry half raw feed to see how they get on with that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭ppink


    I called them ahead of time and I'd say the took it out of the freezer as it was part frozen. 2 x 15kg packs fully sealed.
    I got it from Cappoquin poultry in Waterford but I would imagine any fo the poultry places would have it. I did collect it as it was my first time getting it and I wanted to see it. I was going to ask them if they could fire ona few packs to a truck coming my direction and I could meet them....not sure it they can do that though.

    I did not feed it raw..I cooked it all, minced it and froze it (9 hours it took :(). will be looking at feedign raw next time.

    It is for pets, not humans but there were loads of chicken breasts and good meat in the packs I got:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    Ppink - were there any bones in it? Or just meat?

    Shano - Here's the guide I use
    feed 2 - 10% of your dogs body weight, puppies and small dogs can eat between 5 - 10%, working dogs can eat more than 2%

    I make my meals up like this
    60% raw meaty bones
    20% muscle meat
    10% organs
    10% veggies


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,412 ✭✭✭toadfly


    I have been thinking of doing this but have enough dry to last 6-8 weeks. Only problem is I go to my mams house 2 or 3 weekends a month and would be a pain organising food for the weekend. What about when they go into kennels then, would they have to go back on dry?

    Only have a standard fridge/freezer as well, how much meat would I need to keep?

    Ppink is it ok to get the half frozen chicken, refreeze and feed to the dogs?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭ppink


    Yes there were bones in it. It was not full of carcasses though, majority meat. I was unsure at first but for €8 I thought I would try it and see.

    Tilly I think you can order it fresh, mine had a kill date on it of only a couple of days before I got it. I cooked it and then froze again. Probably best if feeding raw to get it fresh and then freeze in smaller bags.
    I have a full height freezer and most of it is dog food:rolleyes:.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    Shanao wrote: »
    The things that have put me off changing over to RAW are the price and trying to work out how much to feed. Does anyone have a general idea of how much it would cost to feed a 60kg 14month old, a 45kg 10month old, and a 10kg five month old pup a week? And how much each one would need a day? Although at the moment I'm considering doing a half dry half raw feed to see how they get on with that.

    Hi Shanao,
    Look at this link, as it gives you advice on how to keep the costs down, and how much to feed.
    http://www.dogsfirst.ie/Nutrition/Recipe_Idea_and_Cost.html

    I go for about 3% of the dog's body weight per day. So, a 10kg dog would need about 300g per day, split as per recommendations given on the above link.
    Again, dogsfirst advises that if you give your dog a nice big bone one day, you take a dollop out of his daily ration for that day. If your dog has a particularly tiring day, add a dollop!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭Bullseye1


    Are Chicken bones not dangerous?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    Bullseye1 wrote: »
    Are Chicken bones not dangerous?

    Not when fed raw, no. However, I'd never let one of mine eat a bone unless I was there to supervise. I think some dogs need to learn to eat bones well: I have one here who'll bolt a bone, but another is a super efficient and safe eater. I have a new dog who won't eat bones at all! Any suggestions for this dogsfirst?:D


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  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 919 ✭✭✭Shanao


    Well at the moment its costing me 4.33 to feed the two big dogs a day. I would have to feed the big guy nearly 2kgs of raw a day and the bitch 1500g a day (Might have that slightly wrong but I think that's right). I think from the calculations there (if I have followed them right, have never been the greatest mathematician) it would cost me 5.74 to feed the 60kg dog a day and 4.30 to feed the 45kg a day...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Ronnie Beck


    I fed my dog (border collie) raw meat and bones in the morning and a half cup of quality dry food with cod liver oil from three months old for about six months. No problems there fit and healthy dog perfect teeth, coat etc.
    I then moved to a different part of the country and just fed him dry food and the oil. I noticed his teeth had built up alot of plaque particularly on the canines. I started him back on the raw meat and bones in the morning. He sleeps by the front door and the following morning about six o' clock I have woken to an awful smell and a large pile on the floor. The diarrheoa lasts for the rest of the day. I have tried three times to reintroduce him to raw meat and bones each time with the same result. The meats seems fine as the my other dog (7 months old) had no bad effects
    Any one had a similar experience or any advice.

    Cheers,

    I suppose this is a warning/question, it was pretty bad and i've a strong stomach (but luckily no carpet).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,047 ✭✭✭are you serious


    Ok I have done some calculations based on my 2 rotties.

    Buddy 14months he weighs in at roughly 48-50kg
    (last time I weighed him he was 46kg, he's grown a bit since then)
    Izzy is 4months she weighs in at 18kg

    Both are on Royal Canin Maxi Junior costing me €69.99 for a 15kg bag.

    Buddy's daily recommendation of food is 625g per day
    Izzy's daily recommendation of food is 420g per day

    I'm doing this per bag per dog.


    So if I am right then this would mean;

    Buddy should get 24 days out of 1 bag exactly = €2.91625 per day
    Izzy should get just under 36 days out of 1 bag = €1.94416 per day
    (hers will change as she is still growing)


    Going off the dogsfirst method 3% of Buddy's weight is 1.47kg which in turn would mean he should get 1.47kg of food per day.
    Going off the dogsfirst method 3% of Izzy's weight is 0.54kg which in turn would mean she should get 0.54kg of food per day.


    So this would mean using the price as worked out by dogsfirst at €2.87 per kg (depending on where you source your produce of course)would then mean

    Buddy 48-50kg eats 1.47kg of fresh produce = €4.21 per day
    Izzy 18kg eats 0.54kg of fresh produce = €1.54 per day



    Don't know why I didn't do this earlier, seems like I would be losing money by changing over. The smaller dog owner would be saving money but unfortunately myself and other large breed owners would be paying more. I do actually intend on changing to buying the food on-line from maxizoo/zooplus or one of the usual's as I know it is even cheaper again to buy on-line.


    Seriously are my numbers right there? I stand to be corrected on any or all of my figures but I hope if they are indeed right this has helped anyone else out!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Ronnie Beck


    Your maths is spot on. I see what you mean about a larger dogs costing more. My dogs fully grown at about 26kg. that adds up to 65euro/month for the raw food or a quality bag of dog food. He's at about the break even point. I'd try going down to your local butcher or a wholesaler and have a chat. There alot of quality meat that goes to waste as offcuts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    Garkane, would you consider a half raw half dry food diet? Theres a guy at the shows that has chicken mince (with bones and all) for €3 for 5lbs of it. Ive fed it before and its good.

    He also does Carcasses and sometimes has wings too so thats something you could look into.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,772 ✭✭✭✭Whispered


    DBB wrote: »
    . I think some dogs need to learn to eat bones well

    I know you're talking about chicken bones but I was amazed here when Phoe wasn't able to eat the marrow out of a bone. Poor little mite would try to gnaw down into it instead of licking it out. It's taken him nearly 6 months to perfect holding it between his paws. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    garkane wrote: »
    Seriously are my numbers right there? I stand to be corrected on any or all of my figures but I hope if they are indeed right this has helped anyone else out!

    The maths is right but the ingredients in the Dog First webpage are expensive to me.
    They're quoting mince beef from lidl for €3.61/kg, you can get pet grade mince slightly cheaper from foodforpets.ie €3.50/kg

    Dog First quote chicken parts at €3.84/kg, I get mine for €1/kg from my local butcher, a different butcher used to give me them for 50c/kg but he wasn't able to store them in the fridge so had to collect every day so too much of a pain.

    I simply can't afford to feed fish to my lot so I use sea kelp supplement tablets but whenever I come across a fisherman while camping I beg the heads and bits off them.

    I grow veggies in the garden too, helps with the cost of veggies for the dogs dinner.

    You can do it cheaper if you shop around.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 850 ✭✭✭BullBauld


    I gave my 6mth old Airedale his first chicken leg yesterday evening.
    I held it for him to nibble on until it clicked that he was able to eat it, didn't take long for him to polish it off after that. He loved it.

    At times though I didn't know if it was pieces of chicken bones or his teeth hitting the floor :)

    I like the idea of a raw food diet. For some reason though the thought of going completly raw seems a daunting one. I'm not fully sure why.

    Going on figures above it would be cheaper at the moment as Rufus is 18kg, that might change when he gets bigger. If it ends up a bit dearer then not all bad as the quality of diet would make up for that.

    I will suss out local butchers and see do they do off-cuts/carcasses and take it from there.

    Thanks DogsFirst for info provided. Any more recepies please ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,047 ✭✭✭are you serious


    Thanks all for confirming I have not lost my average maths skills!! :)

    I am going to take a trip to Keypak in the next day or so up in Clonee as I know they have a trade counter to see what deals they have, surely they will have great offer there per kg.

    Andrea, I've just booked Buddy into the 4th and 27th December shows in Cloghran no doubt I will see you there and you can introduce me to this guy, cheers for that.

    I know dogsfirst was using prices he was getting from lidl and other places I had a feeling some of the prices could have been made cheaper, as far as I am aware lidl veg is cheaper than most other stores, or so i'm told when talking about food prices in work.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 854 ✭✭✭tacofries


    i worked in a place where we had to get dog food training. basically im too lazy to read of all what was posted and why your doing it, but the man doing it said dry nuts are better than the wet food as its better for teeth and the things which go into it. he advised to stay away from the cans . sorry if this is irrelevant but just thought i should let you know.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    garkane wrote: »
    I am going to take a trip to Keypak in the next day or so up in Clonee as I know they have a trade counter to see what deals they have, surely they will have great offer there per kg.

    Let us know how you get on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭ppink


    garkane wrote: »
    Thanks all for confirming I have not lost my average maths skills!! :)

    I am going to take a trip to Keypak in the next day or so up in Clonee as I know they have a trade counter to see what deals they have, surely they will have great offer there per kg.

    Andrea, I've just booked Buddy into the 4th and 27th December shows in Cloghran no doubt I will see you there and you can introduce me to this guy, cheers for that.

    I know dogsfirst was using prices he was getting from lidl and other places I had a feeling some of the prices could have been made cheaper, as far as I am aware lidl veg is cheaper than most other stores, or so i'm told when talking about food prices in work.

    Will be interested to see how you get on there in Keypak.

    Yes Lidl do those super 6 offers weekly if you have dogs that will eat it. I am restricted to mainly carrot and small amounts of everything else but sometimes their carrots are on for 49c /kg.

    I think there is a poultry farm in cavan too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,189 ✭✭✭boomerang


    tacofries wrote: »
    i worked in a place where we had to get dog food training. basically im too lazy to read of all what was posted and why your doing it, but the man doing it said dry nuts are better than the wet food as its better for teeth and the things which go into it. he advised to stay away from the cans . sorry if this is irrelevant but just thought i should let you know.

    Tacofries, I think what he said is a gross over-generalisation. First of all, you have to take the quality of the ingredients into account. A tin of lightly-cooked green tripe is going to be much better for a dog than a cup of Bakers' Complete, for example.

    Another school of thought now that is gaining ground is that wet food is better for the dog as there is less toll on the kidneys. A life-long dry food diet has been linked to chronic renal failure in older cats. Cats (and dogs) in the wild don't a lot of fresh water - they get enough moisture from the fresh prey they eat. So cats in particular don't necessarily drink enough water to compensate for the dehydrated, dry food.

    Also, what scientific evidence there is that dry food is better for the dog's teeth has been drummed up by... Yes, you guessed it, the dry dog food companies like Royal Canin! If you look at the research papers they base the advertising on, you'll find that the improvement in oral condition when feeding dry v. wet is minimal. If was really concerned about the effects of diet on my dogs' teeth, then I'd go over to a BARF/raw meaty bones diet. My friend's GSD is nearly 4, is fed raw and has the pearly whites of a newborn puppy :)

    My dog is on a soft food diet as I have to home-cook for her. (She has kidney disease.) I can't give her raw bones anymore as they are too high in phosphorous. She's no longer on Orijen as the very high protein content is too much hard work for her kidneys. Now she gets standard amounts of protein in her diet, with an emphasis on highly bio-available protein such as eggs and lamb. She gets raw mince, boneless tinned fish and cooked carbs like potato, rice, carrots. Her teeth are immaculate. I give her Plaque Off in her food every day and rub dog toothpaste on her teeth. :)

    Edited to add: Just read the booklet at that link (www.dogsfirst.ie) and there are some inaccuracies in there, from my own general reading on dog nutrition. Take any info on the web by raw/BARF enthusiasts with a pinch of salt, and read around the subject as much as you can.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Ronnie Beck


    I am going to take a trip to Keypak in the next day or so up in Clonee as I know they have a trade counter to see what deals they have, surely they will have great offer there per kg.

    Was just down with my local butcher. I should mention first I buy all my own meat there and he has always given me a "few bones for the dags". He was more than happy to help, nice guy.

    1.20/kg for meaty bones, muscle and organs as toomanydogs said before. He gave me a bag a beef hearts today for the same price.
    He`s gonna make up 7 frozen 1.2 kg bags for me to pick up every second friday evening(the day he cuts most of his meat). That plus rice/spuds, veg and fish oil. Sorted.
    Each bag will last the two dogs (20 and 25 kg collies) one day on the 3% rule. 28 days@1.20/day= 33.60 per month. Was paying 70/month before for two bags of purina beta active.

    Support your local business:D.


    Please tell me if you see anything wrong with this? First time trying it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,189 ✭✭✭boomerang


    That sounds fantastic :) Nice Mr. Butcher! :P

    I'd space out the offal to one or non-consecutive two days a week - it's very rich.

    What they'll be getting is incomparably better than the Beta. :P

    Edited to add: With them eating raw muscle meat and raw offal they have a slightly greater risk of contracting worms than a dog fed on cooked food. I would worm them regularly with a product that does ascarids, nematodes and platyhelminths (that's roundworm, lungworm, whipworm tapeworm to you and me.) Read the product info to be sure. I think Zantec or Drontal do all of the above.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Ronnie Beck


    offal? sorry I'm not a butcher

    on the parasites I read somewhere that if the meat is frozen for ten days+ it kills off the worms

    What do you mean by regularly?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    offal? sorry I'm not a butcher

    Offal as in the internal organs but particularily the likes of liver and kidney, they're very rich. The likes of hearts, lungs and tripe are nearly considered muscle meat for the purposes of raw feeding.
    on the parasites I read somewhere that if the meat is frozen for ten days+ it kills off the worms

    Freezing for 30 days will kill pretty much anything, pork must be frozen for 30 days minimum [/QUOTE]
    What do you mean by regularly?

    It's recommended to worm every 3 to 6 months, so stick to every 3 months to be on the safe side. I haven't seen a single worms with my lot since I started on raw food so it works for me.

    It's great to have a relationship with your butcher, unfortunately me being veggie I don't so can't get favours! I pick up a 15 - 20kg bag of meaty bones every week but then have to chop and seperate it out. (the chopping is only because I hate to see them wipe big bits of bones up and down the kitchen floor :eek:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,189 ✭✭✭boomerang


    Just on the presence of worms - I used to look in my dogs' poop after they'd been wormed, to see if there were any worms or worm segments. I was always a proud mother when I didn't see any, thinking they mustn't have had worms then. :D

    Wrong! :eek: The likes of Drontal actually cause the worm to disintegrate in the intestine, so you won't see worms being passed out. Only with the likes of Parazole, which paralyses the worms, might you see something coming out the other end. :p


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭chris139ryan


    Was just down with my local butcher. I should mention first I buy all my own meat there and he has always given me a "few bones for the dags". He was more than happy to help, nice guy.

    1.20/kg for meaty bones, muscle and organs as toomanydogs said before. He gave me a bag a beef hearts today for the same price.
    He`s gonna make up 7 frozen 1.2 kg bags for me to pick up every second friday evening(the day he cuts most of his meat). That plus rice/spuds, veg and fish oil. Sorted.
    Each bag will last the two dogs (20 and 25 kg collies) one day on the 3% rule. 28 days@1.20/day= 33.60 per month. Was paying 70/month before for two bags of purina beta active.

    Support your local business:D.


    Please tell me if you see anything wrong with this? First time trying it.

    them prices are excellent in comparison with the dry food, might call down to my local butcher to see what deals he can give me


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    boomerang wrote: »
    Wrong! :eek: The likes of Drontal actually cause the worm to disintegrate in the intestine, so you won't see worms being passed out. Only with the likes of Parazole, which paralyses the worms, might you see something coming out the other end. :p

    That I didn't know! Now I'm wondering what my wormer does. Would help if I remembered the name..... think it's Zantec or something???


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,189 ✭✭✭boomerang


    Zantec has precisely the same ingredients as Drontal. :)

    (Incidentally I also wormed myself this year because I have had so much contact with wormy pups and kittens. Was congratulating myself that it had "no visible effect" until I found about the above. Yeuch!)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 360 ✭✭DogsFirst


    garkane wrote: »
    Ok I have done some calculations based on my 2 rotties.

    Buddy 14months he weighs in at roughly 48-50kg
    (last time I weighed him he was 46kg, he's grown a bit since then)
    Izzy is 4months she weighs in at 18kg

    Both are on Royal Canin Maxi Junior costing me €69.99 for a 15kg bag.

    Buddy's daily recommendation of food is 625g per day
    Izzy's daily recommendation of food is 420g per day

    I'm doing this per bag per dog.


    So if I am right then this would mean;

    Buddy should get 24 days out of 1 bag exactly = €2.91625 per day
    Izzy should get just under 36 days out of 1 bag = €1.94416 per day
    (hers will change as she is still growing)i


    Going off the dogsfirst method 3% of Buddy's weight is 1.47kg which in turn would mean he should get 1.47kg of food per day.
    Going off the dogsfirst method 3% of Izzy's weight is 0.54kg which in turn would mean she should get 0.54kg of food per day.


    So this would mean using the price as worked out by dogsfirst at €2.87 per kg (depending on where you source your produce of course)would then mean

    Buddy 48-50kg eats 1.47kg of fresh produce = €4.21 per day
    Izzy 18kg eats 0.54kg of fresh produce = €1.54 per day



    Don't know why I didn't do this earlier, seems like I would be losing money by changing over. The smaller dog owner would be saving money but unfortunately myself and other large breed owners would be paying more. I do actually intend on changing to buying the food on-line from maxizoo/zooplus or one of the usual's as I know it is even cheaper again to buy on-line.


    [SIZE="2"]Seriously are my numbers right there? I stand to be corrected on any or all of my figures but I hope if they are indeed right this has helped anyone else out![/SIZE]

    Hi folks,

    The larger the dog the less the dog needs. And it is only an approximation, your rottie (and 50kg breeds in general) are less active requiring significantly less food.

    Also your vet bills will plummet. Check out the savings on "canine health concern". But this is longterm and never sways the doubters!

    But yes, you have a bit of work to do to reduce that food bill. An earlier poster said they could get chicken for 1/kg!! While i weep for the life of the chickens produced for this price, it proves there is so many ways to make it cheaper. My mix I reccomend to those dipping their toe is not the cheapest, its the mist accessible lidl mix, its up to you after that.

    I can do it lots cheaper, I buy mackerel and herring by the kilo from a fish factory. I buy my free range chicken carcass from an abbatoir one every two months. I'm currently getting free range turkey necks for nothing.

    An earlier poster highlighted you can get pet grade beef, this is absolutely not recommended. Pet grade meat is necessarily denatured as it leaves the abbatoir so humans can't get it cheap and reintroduce to human food chain. It is denatured with creosote amongst many other poisons. You wouldn't give it to the mother in law.

    My food is costing me around 1.30 per kg, beat that!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 360 ✭✭DogsFirst


    boomerang wrote: »
    tacofries wrote: »

    My dog is on a soft food diet as I have to home-cook for her. (She has kidney disease.) I can't give her raw bones anymore as they are too high in phosphorous. She's no longer on Orijen as the very high protein content is too much hard work for her kidneys. Now she gets standard amounts of protein in her diet, with an emphasis on highly bio-available protein such as eggs and lamb. She gets raw mince, boneless tinned fish and cooked carbs like potato, rice, carrots. Her teeth are immaculate. I give her Plaque Off in her food every day and rub dog toothpaste on her teeth. :)

    Edited to add: Just read the booklet at that link (www.dogsfirst.ie) and there are some inaccuracies in there, from my own general reading on dog nutrition. Take any info on the web by raw/BARF enthusiasts with a pinch of salt, and read around the subject as much as you can.

    Hi boomers, away at moment so must be brief (which will be unusual for me!).

    Thanks for the comments. Could you help us out and perhaps highlight the inaccuracies in the booklet you found? While it us only a quick little general guide for newbies, I lecture on canine nutrition to vets here and abroad. While i am absolutely a raw enthusiast, it has taken me many years of intensive research to get here. Thus it is vital the info I am putting our is on the money.

    Re your dogs kidney disease, how far gone is she? Every study conducted to date shows that even dogs with close to end stage kidney failure (90% collapse) can deal adequately with high protein contents, such as orijen and above, and this isn't just carnivorous dogs with meat adapted kidneys, it is also the case in human kidney patients (bar a few rarer conditions). The key to your dogs ruined kidneys is likely to be protein quality, not quantity. So when you say cook the food for her, denaturing the protein (think cooking eggs), not only making it more antigenic for the carnivore thereby creating extra work for the kidneys with the increase of possible immunoglobulins, but more importantly you are reducing the digestibility of the protein, which is very much recommended against for dogs (and humans) with kidney disease. Thus cooked protein (all dry food) is not recommended for kidney patients. Only highly digestible (thus raw animal protein) is recommended for your dog.

    You're spot on with cutting out the chewable bones in her diet. To be clear to readers though, bones are not the cause, undoubtedly your girl was dry fed pre kidney failure and it wasn't the edible bones that caused the problem. These are a vital part of a dogs nutrition, more than just the best toothbrush.

    See previous posts on kidney disease for recommended reading, or simply type "protein + kidney disease + dogs" into Google scholar.

    Seems thus post wasn't so short after all......


    Hope it helps!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 360 ✭✭DogsFirst


    offal? sorry I'm not a butcher
    on the parasites I read somewhere that if the meat is frozen for ten days+ it kills off the worms

    Freezing for 30 days will kill pretty much anything, pork must be frozen for 30 days minimum
    What do you mean by regularly?

    Freezing doesn't kill bacteria and is 50/50 to kill nematode eggs. This freezing for 30 days is as much unnecessary as it is unusual. Raw feeders can't be mass freezing meat for 30+ days, carefully labelling each bag! I can only assure you all that nobody else in the raw world is doing that.

    Parasites (worms or bacteria such as salmonella or campi) are of no consequence whatsoever to a healthy dog. Read earlier posts but with lysozyme in their saliva, strong stomach acid of pH1 and rapid system, its extremely difficult for any worms. Dogs coevolved with these baddies, they are scavenging carnivores, if a few worms could get in then scavenging days old corpses or burying a bone and eating it months later (septacemia) would lay it out.

    Freezing raw fish us necessary for 1day (their worms can pose a problem and freezing eliminates them), raw beef and chicken is absolutely fine for your dog. Raw pork us not recommended as the pork we mass produced is now riddled with some nasty pathogens that will even get at your dog.

    If I could add a personal observation, raw fed dogs don't get parasites to the same degree as "others". At this many non believers are rolling their eyes! But healthy wild dogs don't suffer fleas or worms unless on the way out, and raw feeders don't seem to worm. Probably the move to raw stregthens the dogs digestive process and certainly bolsters the immunity no end.

    And worming is very hardcore for the system (flea drops are particularly nasty chemicals, as neurotoxins you are advised to wear goggles and gloves, if it gets on your skin wash off immediately, you then put a load on a pup). Just another its ok for them scenario without any grounding in good health practice.

    And its so ridiculousy expensive. Now and again perhaps but every 3months, absolutely not.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,189 ✭✭✭boomerang


    I don't like feeding cooked protein; she mostly gets raw: eggs, minced lamb, green tripe, frozen fish fillets like haddock and whiting. She gets braised liver occasionally, tuna once a week (for variety) and roast chicken/turkey meat on the very, very rare occasions I cook for myself. :D The carbs though are cooked, and are there to bump up the calories. She gets a moderate amount of protein - roughly a gram of protein per pound bodyweight, with an emphasis on high bio-availability. I have no problem feeding a dog a protein-rich diet - I think it's especially important for oldies, so long as they can handle it. The problem with a CRF dog is that meat (even if de-boned) contains a lot of phosphorous, and reducing phosphorous to protect kidney function is a primary goal when feeding a dog with renal insufficiency. When I'm making up recipes for her, I don't worry if it works out very high in protein - it's the phosphorus level I'm watching. So she gets low-phos carbs like sushi rice and potatoes, so I can bump up the meat content as much as possible.

    I'm a firm believer in the theraputic value of raw meaty bones for dogs. :) But they are extremely high in phosphorous, which is why she can only have a bone once in a blue moon now.

    She has been fed on exclusively dry foods in the past, including Orijen, but has also been fed raw and most recently (before her diagnosis) Robbies, which is a moist food. My other dog gets half and half Robbies and "Green Dog" dry food and is doing great - touch wood no kidney problems so far. (She's 8 and has bloods and urinanalysis done once a year as part of her annual check up.)

    Thanks for the input. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    DogsFirst wrote: »
    Freezing doesn't kill bacteria and is 50/50 to kill nematode eggs. This freezing for 30 days is as much unnecessary as it is unusual. Raw feeders can't be mass freezing meat for 30+ days, carefully labelling each bag! I can only assure you all that nobody else in the raw world is doing that.


    Freezing pork to kill paracites was one of the most common pieces of information that kept coming up when I was researching feeding raw, and as pork is only a small part of the diet I found it easy to label it and freeze for 30 days!
    Here's a few links a quick google search threw up so you can forgive people for thinking it is necessary to freeze pork.

    http://www.njboxers.com/faqs.htm#pork
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raw_feeding (bacteria, viruses, paracites)
    http://www.irishdogs.ie/articles/5-common-myths-about-feeding-dogs.html (myth 3)
    DogsFirst wrote: »
    Now and again perhaps but every 3months, absolutely not.

    Are there any studies to show effectiveness of worming tablets v's potiental chemical harm to the dog? Given that I've a 2 year old at home I'll keep worming every 3 months until I see studies showing effectivness of worming v's time!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,634 ✭✭✭TooManyDogs


    boomerang wrote: »
    The problem with a CRF dog is that meat (even if de-boned) contains a lot of phosphorous, and reducing phosphorous to protect kidney function is a primary goal when feeding a dog with renal insufficiency.

    My neighbour has done massive research into raw diets for her elderly CRF dog and what she's doing is slowly (based on blood work) reducing the meat content and replacing with chicken/lamb fat. It's higher in calories but has very little phosphorus in it so when his blood results take a bit of a hike she'll replace a little more just to keep as much protein there as possible but also to make it a bit easier on the kidneys, she's having great results.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,189 ✭✭✭boomerang


    DogsFirst wrote: »
    If I could add a personal observation, raw fed dogs don't get parasites to the same degree as "others". At this many non believers are rolling their eyes! But healthy wild dogs don't suffer fleas or worms unless on the way out, and raw feeders don't seem to worm. Probably the move to raw stregthens the dogs digestive process and certainly bolsters the immunity no end.
    And worming is very hardcore for the system (flea drops are particularly nasty chemicals, as neurotoxins you are advised to wear goggles and gloves, if it gets on your skin wash off immediately, you then put a load on a pup). Just another its ok for them scenario without any grounding in good health practice.
    And its so ridiculousy expensive. Now and again perhaps but every 3months, absolutely not.

    +1 :)

    Although I would argue that dogs that are fed a very good commercial diet can have an equally strong immune system to deal with the pesky critters. My own two are golden oldies now and have never had fleas, mange, scurfy coats etc. I do think nutrition is the cornerstone of good health in our dogs and it amazes me how little time in vet college is devoted to it!

    There is definitely a danger in over-using wormers and flea-control products. They do take a toll on the dog's liver and kidneys, and there is also the very real risk of the parasites developing immunity with repeated applications/dosings. (Just read the small print!) My own vet feels there is no real need to routinely give worming products, anti-flea products or vaccination boosters to healthy, adult dogs and cats. Key word there though is healthy. It would be dangerous to suggest that you shouldn't bother worming/defleaing/vaccinating your pet at all. Talk to your vet and tailor the programme to your pet's needs and their exposure to risk. If you have kids or you're pregnant, then that has to be factored in too.

    I compromise and worm my dogs at least every 12 months (neighbour's unwormed dogs pooping all over our shared green area) never give them flea products (they've never had fleas) and just vaccinate annually for leptospirosis now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,189 ✭✭✭boomerang


    My neighbour is slowly (based on blood work) reducing the meat content and replacing with chicken/lamb fat. It's higher in calories but has very little phosphorus in it so when his blood results take a bit of a hike she'll replace a little more just to keep as much protein there as possible but also to make it a bit easier on the kidneys, she's having great results.

    That's really cool, TMG. :) I'm a bit concerned about giving too much fat to Boo, in case it sparks off a bit of pancreatitis. The home-cooked diets for CRF dogs suggest things like using chicken skin, cream cheese etc to bump up calories while keeping phos low, but the few times I've made up recipes with a bit more fat than she's used to, it's made Boo sick. She loves her green tripe on a Saturday though. :D

    Your neighbour sounds like she's having great success with it, and fair play to her. Every dog is different. :)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 360 ✭✭DogsFirst


    boomerang wrote: »
    I don't like feeding cooked protein; she mostly gets raw: eggs, minced lamb, green tripe, frozen fish fillets like haddock and whiting. She gets braised liver occasionally, tuna once a week (for variety) and roast chicken/turkey meat on the very, very rare occasions I cook for myself. :D The carbs though are cooked, and are there to bump up the calories. She gets a moderate amount of protein - roughly a gram of protein per pound bodyweight, with an emphasis on high bio-availability. I have no problem feeding a dog a protein-rich diet - I think it's especially important for oldies, so long as they can handle it. The problem with a CRF dog is that meat (even if de-boned) contains a lot of phosphorous, and reducing phosphorous to protect kidney function is a primary goal when feeding a dog with renal insufficiency. When I'm making up recipes for her, I don't worry if it works out very high in protein - it's the phosphorus level I'm watching. So she gets low-phos carbs like sushi rice and potatoes, so I can bump up the meat content as much as possible.

    I'm a firm believer in the theraputic value of raw meaty bones for dogs. :) But they are extremely high in phosphorous, which is why she can only have a bone once in a blue moon now.

    She has been fed on exclusively dry foods in the past, including Orijen, but has also been fed raw and most recently (before her diagnosis) Robbies, which is a moist food. My other dog gets half and half Robbies and "Green Dog" dry food and is doing great - touch wood no kidney problems so far. (She's 8 and has bloods and urinanalysis done once a year as part of her annual check up.)

    Thanks for the input. :)

    Oh sorry about that, when you said home cooked i literally thought you were cooking it, but you mean home preparing, good on ya!


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