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large beech tree

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  • 30-09-2011 10:54am
    #1
    crackcrack30
    Registered Users Posts: 1,160 ✭✭✭


    How much should it cost to just fell a large beech tree. I think it has had its day as it only holds about 30% of leaves in comparison to to its 2 sisters in the same field, the trunk is about 7 ft x 6ft + and its in the middle of a field, no point touching it with my 18 inch bar until its down....
    how much to fell?................


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    #2
    49801
    Registered Users Posts: 1,844 ✭✭✭49801


    if you dont want the timber you should be able to find a guy to fell it for the value of the timber with a bit of asking locally

    if you put your location up some others may be able to put you in touch with someone.

    dermot casey's would most certainly do it but know how to charge (to be fair it is a high cost business)


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    #3
    O.A.P
    Registered Users Posts: 1,376 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    crackcrack30 wrote: »
    How much should it cost to just fell a large beech tree. I think it has had its day as it only holds about 30% of leaves in comparison to to its 2 sisters in the same field, the trunk is about 7 ft x 6ft + and its in the middle of a field, no point touching it with my 18 inch bar until its down....
    how much to fell?................
    I doubt you will get a price from anyone without seeing the job first, every tree is different.


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    #4
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    crackcrack30 wrote: »
    How much should it cost to just fell a large beech tree. I think it has had its day as it only holds about 30% of leaves in comparison to to its 2 sisters in the same field, the trunk is about 7 ft x 6ft + and its in the middle of a field, no point touching it with my 18 inch bar until its down....
    how much to fell?................

    If you have a small bit of experience of using a saw, you should be able to get it down. Cut a wedge out of it on the side that you want it to fall. Then cut 360 degrees around the tree. An 18 inch bar will be under pressure, but if you give yourself lots of time, allowing the saw to cool half way through, ther is no reason why you won't get it toppled. Remember to have some wedges and a sledge on hand to open it up a bit for yourself and make it easier to saw the inner wood. Sometimes if I'm sawing a big tree, I have a long 2" rope which I got from a fishing trawler. I'll hook the tractor to the rope and the rope to the tree (up high) and put a strain on it. It works a treat!


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    #5
    crackcrack30
    Registered Users Posts: 1,160 ✭✭✭crackcrack30


    It looks to be biased to one side weight wise, how deep should i cut the wedge, what i'm afraid of is cutting my wedge, going all around (18')and the tree refusing to fall leaving it unsafe. its a monster of a tree and only gains respect when you stand well back to look at it , it would be worth a small fortune in timber ect.,
    How effective would wedges be to open a tree with this kind of weight and where can they be bought. My MF165 would look like a christmas decoration on the side of it if it went the other way:p...........
    P.S can large/long saws be hired?


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    #6
    Muckit
    Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    reilig wrote: »
    If you have a small bit of experience of using a saw, you should be able to get it down. Cut a wedge out of it on the side that you want it to fall. Then cut 360 degrees around the tree. An 18 inch bar will be under pressure, but if you give yourself lots of time, allowing the saw to cool half way through, ther is no reason why you won't get it toppled. Remember to have some wedges and a sledge on hand to open it up a bit for yourself and make it easier to saw the inner wood. Sometimes if I'm sawing a big tree, I have a long 2" rope which I got from a fishing trawler. I'll hook the tractor to the rope and the rope to the tree (up high) and put a strain on it. It works a treat!

    Ah Jaysus! H&S how are ya! Every man to his own, but felling a large hardwood tree is a job best left to a specialist. Many's a good man thought himself competent until he found out too late he wasn't :rolleyes:

    Small ash trees..... it's debatable, but I wouldn't advise anyone who isn't a skilled professional go near anything bigger.

    Remember you still have an amount of work to do AFTER the tree is felled if you that way inclined.

    Find the golden pages and make a few phone calls, It'I work out cheaper than a funeral.


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    #7
    MOC1972
    Registered Users Posts: 84 ✭✭MOC1972


    You would be nuts to go at that tree with 1 saw and a 18 inch bar.
    Most guys at this daily will only take on that work with 3 saws if 1 breaks down they have back up.
    Price would be in todays climate about 200 euros if they are traveling long distance maybe more that is for no problem trees as you said middle of feild no climbing.
    They will take it down and stay for a few hours to make your life easier by cutting the big stuff.

    Plaese get someone who knows what they are doing


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    #8
    Username John
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,237 ✭✭✭Username John


    I'd have to agree with the above comments and say get someone who knows what they're doing...

    Not sure where I was reading it - but I saw the reasons for farm accidents last year, and I was surprised at the amount of them caused by chainsaws / tree felling. :eek:

    Reilg - you kinda sound like you know you're doing (or maybe I am being too kind) ;)
    But for someone who isnt experienced, I think it wouldnt be a good idea...

    Better to pay a bit of money to be safe, than to be a statistic...


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    #9
    Juniorhurler
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭Juniorhurler


    reilig wrote: »
    If you have a small bit of experience of using a saw, you should be able to get it down. Cut a wedge out of it on the side that you want it to fall. Then cut 360 degrees around the tree. An 18 inch bar will be under pressure, but if you give yourself lots of time, allowing the saw to cool half way through, ther is no reason why you won't get it toppled. Remember to have some wedges and a sledge on hand to open it up a bit for yourself and make it easier to saw the inner wood. Sometimes if I'm sawing a big tree, I have a long 2" rope which I got from a fishing trawler. I'll hook the tractor to the rope and the rope to the tree (up high) and put a strain on it. It works a treat!

    Exactly how I have always done it too


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    #10
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    Username John wrote: »
    Reilg - you kinda sound like you know you're doing (or maybe I am being too kind) ;)

    I've sawed enough trees in my time. I was trying to assertain if the op had experience of sawing. Its a tree in the middle of a field. If he has saw training done and has a small bit of experience, there really isn't anything that he can knock it down on - except himself.

    If he hasn't the training or doesn't have the confidence then he shouldn't really have a saw at all - They're quite dangerous you know!! I heard of a guy who cut off his big toe once. He was only trying to start the dam thing! If someone is at this level of safety then they shouldn't have a saw at all.


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    #11
    49801
    Registered Users Posts: 1,844 ✭✭✭49801


    if there is value in the timber and you are considering getting it planked....
    a fellow can come to the tree with a mobile planking unit. he should also have a great big saw and might fell it for you or would certainly know whom.
    other thing is if there is value in the trunk you might get a lot of waste felling it yourself compared to a fellow who knows what he is about.
    dont know the cost of a mobile planker though...


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    #12
    pakalasa
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    I was talking to a guy recently that gets timber from a tree surgeon he knows. The surgeon had just cut up a huge oak that was 21 feet in diameter at the base. There was even a dispute if the tree was protected or not. It took them 3 full weeks to cut up and cost 8,000 euro. It had to be logged from top down too as it was between buildings and so couldn't be felled. Some job eh? Apparantly there's only one guy in the country that can do this.


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    #13
    Username John
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,237 ✭✭✭Username John


    reilig wrote: »
    Username John wrote: »
    Reilg - you kinda sound like you know you're doing (or maybe I am being too kind) ;)

    I've sawed enough trees in my time. I was trying to assertain if the op had experience of sawing. Its a tree in the middle of a field. If he has saw training done and has a small bit of experience, there really isn't anything that he can knock it down on - except himself.

    If he hasn't the training or doesn't have the confidence then he shouldn't really have a saw at all - They're quite dangerous you know!! I heard of a guy who cut off his big toe once. He was only trying to start the dam thing! If someone is at this level of safety then they shouldn't have a saw at all.

    Hmmm, interesting response Reilg... ;)
    They are "quite dangerous" indeed...


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    #14
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    49801 wrote: »
    if there is value in the timber and you are considering getting it planked....
    a fellow can come to the tree with a mobile planking unit. he should also have a great big saw and might fell it for you or would certainly know whom.
    other thing is if there is value in the trunk you might get a lot of waste felling it yourself compared to a fellow who knows what he is about.
    dont know the cost of a mobile planker though...

    Beech is worth a fortune planked. There is huge demand for it for kitchens. It is soaked in bog for a week to allow the grains to stain, then it is kiln dried.
    However most guys with a mobile planking saw won't fell the tree for you because of insurance reasons.

    Biggest problem with a tree this size is that it is probably boast (dead in the middle). It has all the signs - especially when the op describes how it doesn't have as many leaves as the other trees close to it.


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    #15
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    Username John wrote: »
    reilig wrote: »
    Username John wrote: »
    Reilg - you kinda sound like you know you're doing (or maybe I am being too kind) ;)


    They are "quite dangerous" indeed...

    . . . . if you don't know what you're doing

    so are cars, tractors, bikes, etc.

    So is everything in life. If you aren't trained, don't have the experience and the confidence, then get someone who has


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    #16
    crackcrack30
    Registered Users Posts: 1,160 ✭✭✭crackcrack30


    reilig wrote: »
    Username John wrote: »
    Reilg - you kinda sound like you know you're doing (or maybe I am being too kind) ;)


    If he hasn't the training or doesn't have the confidence then he shouldn't really have a saw at all - They're quite dangerous you know!! I heard of a guy who cut off his big toe once. He was only trying to start the dam thing! If someone is at this level of safety then they shouldn't have a saw at all.

    You have helped me before relig and you are defo not on my ignore list (yet:D) but yes I dont think I have the confidence for this one but this Dosn't mean I shouldnt have a saw though........


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    #17
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    pakalasa wrote: »
    Apparantly there's only one guy in the country that can do this.

    Mick Lynch & Sons Mullingar I presume.
    They are the only ones that I know of that would have the hoists, crane and saws with the ability to do it.


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    #18
    tvo
    Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭tvo


    Definately get someone who knows what the re doing when it comes to knocking it. once its on the ground it should be safe to tackle if you have some saw experience. if you have more than one to knock or a neighbour has one to knock you might be able to get some discount from an expieranced saw operator


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    #19
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    crackcrack30 wrote: »
    reilig wrote: »
    Username John wrote: »
    Reilg - you kinda sound like you know you're doing (or maybe I am being too kind) ;)


    You have helped me before relig and you are defo not on my ignore list (yet:D) but yes I dont think I have the confidence for this one but this Dosn't mean I shouldnt have a saw though........

    Make sure you come back and tell us if the tree falls on top of who you get. It would serve as a Health and Safety lesson to all of us :D:D:D:D

    Joking aside, if a feller sees you coming to him with the above job, he's going to think "handy money for a 20 minute job" and he will charge you well. Most tree surgeons only get calls to remove trees that are close to houses, power lines and roads. Ordinary fellers won't have insurance for a one off job - they are usually contracted to do felling and covered by the insurance of the the person who contracts them. You risk be liable if you use an ordinary feller and tehre is an accident (big or small).

    You'll have to splash out on someone with insurance so.


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    #20
    pakalasa
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    reilig wrote: »
    Mick Lynch & Sons Mullingar I presume.
    They are the only ones that I know of that would have the hoists, crane and saws with the ability to do it.
    Don't know the name, but almost sure they are Cork based.

    OP,
    I've knocked a few trees myself over the years. I normally climb the tree first and put a rope up high, like Reilig described. If the rope is high enough, one person can easily pull it. But 7'6" at the base, I'd leave one that big to the professionals. Better safe than sorry!


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    #21
    barryoc1
    Registered Users Posts: 160 ✭✭barryoc1


    How bout getting in a local guy with a big tracks machine digger to have a look. I was knockin trees at home a few years back and i was afraid of some of em falling the wrong way. My local contractor has a 21 ton digger and he dug out the roots and the ground at the side he wanted it to fall, then went to the other side, dug out roots and gave it a push. Great job. It was so quick and easy i was sorry i wasted my time knocking the ones that were falling the right way.


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    #22
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    I supprised at the reaction that I got to my post about felling it. We have felled trees on our farm for years - some the size that the Op described. Its something that has just always been done as both my house and the parents are fully fueled by wood.

    Both myself and the old man have chainsaw certificates. Mine is up to date, his isn't as he doesn't saw anymore. All safety precautions are taken (as described with the wedges and the stay rope to the tractor). Clear areas for sawer safety (to jump to no matter what way the tree is falling) are always made before starting sawing. Its just a way of life around here. Does nobody else do this?? I can't see what a tree surgeon would do differently or more safely.


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    #23
    O.A.P
    Registered Users Posts: 1,376 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    It is probably rotten up the middle and he says it leaning or most of the weight is on one side. That tree sounds like it could split up the middle (barber chair) on a man .


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    #24
    lakill Farm
    Registered Users Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    Reilig, is there a course just designed for farmers/diy?

    i had a tiny bit of saw experience and last year called a local expert and he wanted 800 to know 2 trees on the side of the road.

    Instead i hired a teleporter, i spent the sat paintig the hat shed roof and sunday knocking th trees. Dad bro use to work at timber years ago. He spent 10 mins making a path to safety plan and 5 mins knocking the trees. Gave a small pull with the teleporter into the field

    Cost me 200e for teleporterand 100 cigs


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    #25
    crackcrack30
    Registered Users Posts: 1,160 ✭✭✭crackcrack30


    I've droped many trees myself your way and I'm no coward if anything I enjoy the challange, but nothing of this size, I'd probably have it tackled if I had a 20-24 bar, but wouldnt have the work for it (bar) 99% of the time.

    I agree with you, it would be easy money for someone who does it regularly.............thanks for advice cc30......


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    #26
    blue5000
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,624 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    49801 wrote: »
    if there is value in the timber and you are considering getting it planked....
    a fellow can come to the tree with a mobile planking unit. he should also have a great big saw and might fell it for you or would certainly know whom.
    other thing is if there is value in the trunk you might get a lot of waste felling it yourself compared to a fellow who knows what he is about.
    dont know the cost of a mobile planker though...

    OP says the trunk is 6x7. I think it's too big for a mobile saw. It would have to be cut lengthwise with a chainsaw first into large 2x2 slabs.

    Hey OP whats the hurry? It's in the middle of a field, storm might knock it?

    I'd go for the suggestion above with the track digger, knock it and cut the stump off, if it is rotten then its firewood. If not I've a pm sent to ya.;)

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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    #27
    Username John
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,237 ✭✭✭Username John


    reilig wrote: »
    Both myself and the old man have chainsaw certificates. Mine is up to date, his isn't as he doesn't saw anymore. All safety precautions are taken (as described with the wedges and the stay rope to the tractor). Clear areas for sawer safety (to jump to no matter what way the tree is falling) are always made before starting sawing. Its just a way of life around here. Does nobody else do this?? I can't see what a tree surgeon would do differently or more safely.

    So it would appear you do seem to know what yer doing Reilg! ;):D

    We have always cut our own timber at home as well - I dont have a chainsaw certificate. Being honest - I didnt even know such a thing existed until I read your post. :o
    I must look into it. They do say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing... :(

    But for big trees, we would have gotten a professional in to fell them. But I suppose thats little consolation when my big toe is gone starting the saw to cut up the light branches... ;)


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    #28
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    lakill Farm wrote: »
    Reilig, is there a course just designed for farmers/diy?

    Not really. Its the same course for everyone. There is a basic 2 day maintenance and light cutting course. There is a 5 day maintenance, cross cutting and small tree felling one (Its the basic course). Higher than these is a 3 day large tree felling course. There used to be renewals, but by the time I got to renewal stage on my cert, there was anew course - so i did the felling large trees course with Treecare Ireland. I did my original course as part of my work years ago. But I decided to continue to maintain it just in case I may need it in the future.

    EDIT: Free basic Chainsaw training here: http://www.treecareireland.com/workshops.asp

    No excuse for anyone not being properly trained. ;););)


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    #29
    Muckit
    Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    I can't see any problem with a person having done a 5 day practical training course on the subject, tackling the felling of a tree provided they've the proper equipment to do it.

    I don't however think that anyone with 'a small bit of experience' with a chainsaw should be contemplating felling a tree based on limited advice given on this forum!


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    #30
    Bizzum
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,034 ✭✭✭Bizzum


    reilig wrote: »
    I supprised at the reaction that I got to my post about felling it. We have felled trees on our farm for years - some the size that the Op described. Its something that has just always been done as both my house and the parents are fully fueled by wood.

    Both myself and the old man have chainsaw certificates. Mine is up to date, his isn't as he doesn't saw anymore. All safety precautions are taken (as described with the wedges and the stay rope to the tractor). Clear areas for sawer safety (to jump to no matter what way the tree is falling) are always made before starting sawing. Its just a way of life around here. Does nobody else do this?? I can't see what a tree surgeon would do differently or more safely.

    To answer the question you asked Reilig, Yeah I do the same as yourself. I'm trained to do it too. I think thats the big difference.
    In the case of the OP perhaps get in someone that has the confidence and equipment to do the job safely for you, particularly as the tree may be dozey(as only a third of it produces leaves) and can hinge erratically.


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    #31
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    Muckit wrote: »
    I can't see any problem with a person having done a 5 day practical training course on the subject, tackling the felling of a tree provided they've the proper equipment to do it.

    I don't however think that anyone with 'a small bit of experience' with a chainsaw should be contemplating felling a tree based on limited advice given on this forum!
    If he has saw training done and has a small bit of experience
    .


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