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about to start my first brew... brewing for dummies?

  • 11-09-2011 11:55pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭


    hi all, I'm new around these parts, thought I'd start a thread seeing that I am sure i'm going to have loads of questions. I have read loads of threads on here watched craig on youtube, but the more i read/watch the more technical it gets. But, I suppose it depends on what you're looking for. My current beer of choice is Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse & I'd be delighted if i could brew something similar.

    As a prezzie I was given a 6 gallon young's brewing bucket with lid with lid and airlock along with Steriliser, a syphon, a hammer capper & 40 gold caps.

    I was also given a Brewferm Tarwebier beer kit, 500g of spray malt light & 1kg of brewing sugar.

    Weather permitting, tomorrow i am going to take a stroll to the local brew shop to get a paddle, a thermometer, a bottle brush & do i need a hydrometer? Is there anything else I need/you wouldn't do without? Should i get a better bottler?

    Next question, the water in my area (galway) is sh!te. I have read about people using bottled water, I was thinking about using (brita) filtered water, any thoughts?


    thanks for your patience with this nooob to brewing.


«1

Comments

  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Definitely get a hydrometer, spirit thermometer and trial jar. Hammer cappers are rubbish, I'd invest in a twin-lever, minimum. Assuming you have bottles already, that is: you don't want to find yourself skip diving because the beer is ready to be bottled and you don't have any to put it in. The plastic screw-cap ox-bar bottles are good, and cheap, if you need to buy bottles. A bottling wand is fairly essential too, and get a syphon clip.

    An extra bucket with lid is a good idea and will make bottling much easier. You don't need one with an airlock (you don't need an airlock at all, in fact -- they don't tell you anything useful).

    If I'm doing a kit I boil and cool my water the day before brewing. Even just leaving it out overnight is a good idea as it will evaporate off the chlorine. If you can be bothered with filtered water that'll probably give you better results.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭Yawns


    Hey guys no point in me starting a new thread for this.

    I want to brew my own beer so I ordered a kit Thursday which arrived today. Going with a Canadian Blonde cos I don't want to mess this up first time around and once I get going I plan to keep brewing.

    My water is a hard area but I have some filter jugs, that should be alright to use once filtered I imagine. I use it for the kettle when making tea etc and it does make a difference. No limescale buildup unless cartridge needs replacing. I bought Tesco filtered water for now and plan to reuse the bottles with jug filtered water. Should be fine I hope.

    My main questions are:

    When preparing, some instructions say to mix the stuff in the bucket and others boil it on the cooker. Is it just personal choice and once it's done with the appropriate hot water etc it prob doesn't matter? Or should I do the cooker way.

    Other query is, when leaving the wort to ferment, should it be in a dark place or would a corner of a brightly day-lit room be ok. I could provide a dark closet but it's just a matter of clearing it out first. The temp is fine in the closet and I even have an ideal height shelf for leaving the bucket on and have all my empty bottles underneath for time to fill etc so if I can leave it in complete darkness no bother I will.

    Hopefully things go smoothly for me anyway. When my delivery arrived, I was rushing out the door so on quick inspection I thought I was left without a lot of stuff so when I got back I was ringing the supplier. Luckily he got the amusement of telling me to check the trail jar box as that's where they put thermometer, hydrometer, bubble lock too :D Hope that's my silliness for this batch done and out of the way :D

    Wish me luck!


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Yawns wrote: »
    When preparing, some instructions say to mix the stuff in the bucket and others boil it on the cooker. Is it just personal choice and once it's done with the appropriate hot water etc it prob doesn't matter? Or should I do the cooker way.
    The kit is already boiled, you don't need to boil it again. If you wanted to raise the bitterness levels you could boil in some more hops, but there's no other reason to boil the kit.
    Yawns wrote: »
    should it be in a dark place or would a corner of a brightly day-lit room be ok.
    I'd say out of direct sunlight is best. You don't want it getting over 23C and there's also the danger of lightstrike. But you don't need to keep it in total darkness either.

    Good luck!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭Yawns


    Thanks BeerNut.

    I have a few different places I could place it. The closet would have been great for leaving it fermenting, then bottling because of the height of shelf and I could stack a few crates of empty beer bottles. Oh well the joys of a spare bedroom and a computer room means I have lots of spots, just have to keep the kid away :D

    I'm actually so excited to get started but want to wait til the little lad is asleep cos he will be tempted to put his germs in I'd bet. Gonna sterilize everything anyway.

    1 more quick question. I can get a lot of beer bottles no problem and saw on the website that if I run em through the dishwasher, that it's an effective way of cleaning and sterilizing them. Anybody here try this or should I be putting a sterilizing solution into the bottles shortly before bottling with the brew?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Never done it, but apparently it does work. Just remember not to put any detergent in the machine.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭Yawns


    I'll also assume not to use rinse aid too. So I'll either let the dishwasher run empty of all rinse aid then wash them, then rinse and sterilize the bottles quickly prior to bottling. They will need to be cleaned anyway cos I'll be getting them from the local pub. Getting crates too so storage will be handy :D

    Also when it comes time for bottling, I have the coopers enhancer instead of using sugar, will I also use a little bit of that for carbonation in the bottles instead of the sugar?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Yawns wrote: »
    will I also use a little bit of that for carbonation in the bottles instead of the sugar?
    Doesn't matter. Table sugar is cheapest and works fine. I'd strongly advise getting a second fermenter to use as a bottling bucket so you can batch prime.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    BeerNut, thanks for the advice. Yawns, best of luck with your brew.

    I got a hydrometer and trial jar, 2 thermometer's (a 'stick' & a stick on), a paddle, bottle brush & carbonation drops. I didn't get a new bottler, i got 100 extra caps so i can see if i can use the hammer capper on bottles of water first.

    Had a good chat with the lad in the shop, even-though he admitted to being a beginner himself (the boss would be back in half an hour if i wanted extra advice).

    I'm just starting to sterilise everything now & thinking about my next steps. Please correct me where i'm wrong.

    I'm going to mix the contents of the brew kit with 750g spraymalt in 3 ltrs of hot water.
    I'm going to add ltrs of water & bring the mix to 23c.
    then add the yeast (with 150ml of 25c water)
    take a hydrometer reading (need to read up on this)
    put on the airlock.
    wait.

    have i missed anything or got anything wrong.

    thanks for your help.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    I'm going to mix the contents of the brew kit with 750g spraymalt in 3 ltrs of hot water.
    Yes. Stir it lots while doing this. You want it well dissolved, make sure the water is boiling.
    I'm going to add ltrs of water & bring the mix to 23c.
    Any temperature of 27 or under is fine. Again, stir stir stir so the mix is even and you get an accurate hydrometer reading. Take the hydrometer reading before adding the yeast.
    then add the yeast (with 150ml of 25c water)
    If you're rehydrating the yeast, take a sanitised glass and add ~100ml of water which has been boiled and then cooled to 27C (you can crash cool it in a bowl or jug of cold water - remember to sanitise the thermometer and anything else that touches the water or yeast). Add the sachet contents, let it sit for 10 minutes, then gently stir with the sanitised thermometer. Give it another 20 minutes or so to wake up, then pour into the wort.

    Alternatively, you can just throw the sachet contents straight into the wort at 27C.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    thanks for the quick reply. would your recommend adding the yeast without hydrating it. i've seen craig do this on youtube.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    BeerNut wrote: »
    stir stir stir so the mix is even and you get an accurate hydrometer reading. Take the hydrometer reading before adding the yeast.
    thanks & i forgot to add the instructions for my beerkit
    http://www.homebrewit.com/instructions_brewferm.pdf


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    thanks for the quick reply. would your recommend adding the yeast without hydrating it. i've seen craig do this on youtube.
    It's better to add it straight than mess up rehydrating it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    oh I only have 500g of spraymalt, I'll use this + 250g brewing sugar?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Should be all right.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    for future reference, the britta filter might not be the best way to go (unless the water is filtered in advance?) it's like chinese water torture waiting for each ltr of water (9 to go).

    edit> & feckit i never sterilised the britta jug, d'oh

    edit again > added boiled water, bottled water and more filtered water to my mix. temp is 26c & hydrometer reading is 1.042. I'm gonna feck in the yeast give it a stir & hit the laba (it's 3.30am)

    wish me luck I hope i haven't fecked it up.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭Yawns


    lol I'm pretty much the same :D

    I had hydrometer reading of 1.042 and temp of 26 when yeast added. I had 20 ltrs of water already purchased from Tesco so I can have these filled along with another 2 5l bottles in advance of the next brew. So far things seem fine, it's at a nice 22 now when I checked it before bringing the young lad to playschool.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    thanks yawns, it's nice to know there is someone else in the same boat.

    I checked this afternoon & airlock was already bubbling & there and there was a small layer of foam on top. it's at a constant 22c & is bubbling away in the corner (about every 5 - 10 seconds).

    there is a slight smell & my wort is darker than I thought it would be

    now I have to start washing and sterilising bottles.

    for sterilising I'm considering....
    oblivious wrote: »
    a mix of 30ml bleach and 30mls vinegar, in 20 liters will produce a no rinse solution, with really no residue

    It might be a silly question, but would 15ml of bleach/vinegar in 10ltr of water be the same thing?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 5,838 Mod ✭✭✭✭irish_goat


    It might be a silly question, but would 15ml of bleach/vinegar in 10ltr of water be the same thing?

    Exact same. :)


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Remember to add the bleach and the vinegar to the water separately. Don't mix them neat.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭Yawns


    Yeah I was wondering about the bleach and vinegar way myself after reading it. I popped my bottles into the dishwasher for now cos the hot water will also remove the labels so I am taking it handy enough.

    Green, my brew seems to be going the same as yours. A bit darker than what I expected but if yours is the same maybe we're doing it right. ( or wrong ) lol

    Altho I have to say I can't get a smell. Airlock is going every few seconds tho with a nice foam on top of wort. I noticed my temp hitting 20 - 21 there so I put a nice towel lightly around top and sides, leaving about a third of the bucket exposed. Will have to keep and eye on the temp, hoping to keep it at about 22 throughout fermentation.


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Yawns wrote: »
    A bit darker than what I expected
    Possibly because it's in a big bucket? It'll look paler in a glass, when you get that far :D
    Yawns wrote: »
    hoping to keep it at about 22 throughout fermentation.
    Still on the high side. 18 is ideal. I'd ditch the towel.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭Yawns


    lol true about colour beernut :D

    I am just a n00b at this :D So 18 would be more ideal? I thought 22 would have been fine for it. 22 for about 7 - 10 days fermentation. Or would 2 weeks fermenting at 18 be better?

    Oh and I know to check the Hydrometer for identical readings over a couple of days before it's even ready to be bottled but a few days after that should be fine right? So like 2 weeks fermenting would be fine before bottling. If I were to leave it 3 - 4 weeks before bottling would that be too long or effect the taste in anyway.

    My aim was 10 days or so fermenting at 22 - Then bottle and leave that for about 3 - 4 weeks before chilling some and tasting.

    But it should be 14 - 16 days fermenting at 18 - Then bottle for 4 weeks minimum. This would prob be a better option in your opinion right?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Yawns wrote: »
    I thought 22 would have been fine for it
    It's the upper end of fine. There's no point in taking steps to keep it at 22 if it's going to be 18-20 otherwise.
    Yawns wrote: »
    about 7 - 10 days fermentation
    Too short. Give it two weeks minimum, regardless of temperature.
    Yawns wrote: »
    If I were to leave it 3 - 4 weeks before bottling would that be too long
    No, and you could get away with another few weeks past that. 2-3 weeks should be plenty, though.
    Yawns wrote: »
    My aim was 10 days or so fermenting at 22 - Then bottle and leave that for about 3 - 4 weeks before chilling some and tasting.
    You can do that, but it's not optimum. And whtever you do don't bottle before fermentation has finished.
    Yawns wrote: »
    But it should be 14 - 16 days fermenting at 18 - Then bottle for 4 weeks minimum. This would prob be a better option in your opinion right?
    The bottles should be ready after 3 weeks, but otherwise, yeah.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭Yawns


    Great cheers for advice. Towel is off. Will prob leave for 2 - 3 weeks fermenting before bottling. Will leave for 4 weeks conditioning too then. I did pick up the big stockpot and am gonna order more equipment for batch priming etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    my brew's not bubbling anymore, should I be worried?

    being kept at 19c


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    should I be worried?
    I've been doing this homebrew forum thing for a good three or four years now. Never once has the answer to this question been "yes". Once fermentation has started, leave everything alone for at least a week. It's fine. If it's not fine, there's nothing you can do about it. But the chances are it's fine. Leave it.

    The airlock tells you nothing useful, ignore it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,259 ✭✭✭Shiny


    my brew's not bubbling anymore, should I be worried?

    being kept at 19c

    My airlock hasn't really bubbled since I finished my 2nd brew (on 11 now). I was terrified the first time I realised it wasn't bubbling but then I sniffed where the lid was threaded on and sure enough it was leaking out though the threads. I haven't been able to get a good enough seal since so I just ignore it now.

    I merely look into the transparent lid to see that the fermentation has started and then leave it for a couple of weeks. Everything will be grand! ;)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,255 ✭✭✭Yawns


    At least I'll know not to worry if mine stops bubbling :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,689 ✭✭✭joeKel73


    Next question, the water in my area (galway) is sh!te.

    Hey 3greenrizla's - another Galway based newbie here, we should exchange beers! Started just over a month ago.
    I'm just starting to sterilise everything now & thinking about my next steps. Please correct me where i'm wrong.

    I'm going to mix the contents of the brew kit with 750g spraymalt in 3 ltrs of hot water.
    I'm going to add ltrs of water & bring the mix to 23c.
    then add the yeast (with 150ml of 25c water)
    take a hydrometer reading (need to read up on this)

    put on the airlock.
    wait.

    I'm not sure how much it alters the reading but you're meant to take the hydrometer reading before adding (or "pitching") the yeast.
    take a hydrometer reading (need to read up on this)
    Here's the handiest calculator I found for calulating ABV from hydrometer readings, it compensates for the temperature at which the readings were taken.
    http://flavoursomedelights.com/Beer/Tips/alccalc.html

    I've half-made an Android app to do just this, I'll finish it off when I get time.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 250 ✭✭I_am_LOST


    Im very worried! My brew was getting cold so wrapped some towels on it. Checked on it today and part of the towel near the tap was wet and there was a small pool on the ground :( Its not coming out directly from the tap spout but rather oozing out of the part where it meets the fermenting bucket. It seems to have stopped now and lost hardly any beer but Im worried that since its obviously somehow loosened and its not a tight fit, air will get in and contaminate it? :(


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    I_am_LOST wrote: »
    Im very worried!
    Don't be.
    I_am_LOST wrote: »
    oozing out of the part where it meets the fermenting bucket.
    The big question you need to ask is: why did this happen? Check the seal before you ferment another batch in this. In general I think you're better off fermenting in a bucket with no tap.
    I_am_LOST wrote: »
    air will get in and contaminate it? :(
    Air getting in isn't a problem. A couple of days of fermentation will produce enough alcohol to kill most things, and a layer of CO2 on top of the beer will keep air away. Traffic from your leak will be one way.

    But... if you've sealed the bucket too tight that could be why beer burst out the tap hole. Make sure the lid is just on loosely, not sealed down tight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,259 ✭✭✭Shiny


    I_am_LOST wrote: »
    Im very worried! My brew was getting cold so wrapped some towels on it. Checked on it today and part of the towel near the tap was wet and there was a small pool on the ground :( Its not coming out directly from the tap spout but rather oozing out of the part where it meets the fermenting bucket. It seems to have stopped now and lost hardly any beer but Im worried that since its obviously somehow loosened and its not a tight fit, air will get in and contaminate it? :(

    I find that when I'm re-attaching the tap, after sanitizing, when I think I have it tight I can still get another full turn if I wrap a towel around the tap and tighten further.

    I would say that the yeast and sediment that is settling at the bottom has blocked up the leak. Any of this that is exposed to air will go hard which will seal the leak further thus protecting your beer.

    What temperature are you at now?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 250 ✭✭I_am_LOST


    Thanks for the replies guys. Couldve sworn i fitted the tap tightly..maybe i didnt even put it together properly! :S Cant tighten it as the washer is on the inside if you get me

    Anyway, Beernut has solved my problem. I fitted the lid tightly as this is what i was told to do in directions Im following. Guess i should loosen it now then!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    thanks for everyones advice. FotoJoe, yeah I'll deffinatly be up for a swap if I manage to make a drinkable batch.

    So a couple more questions, My brew is on it's 8th day - is it about time to take a hydrometer reading? I'm off work on Friday i was thinking of bottling then. Is that a good idea or should I do what the hydrometer tells me?

    Any opinions on what I should do for my second brew? I would quite like something that I could share with my larger drinking friends, but something with a bit of depth & flavour.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    is it about time to take a hydrometer reading?
    Yeah, I'd be taking one every 2-3 days now.
    I'm off work on Friday i was thinking of bottling then.
    Day 11? Regardless of the hydrometer I'd give it at least a fortnight.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 250 ✭✭I_am_LOST


    I thought 1 week was usually sufficient for fermentation for kit brewing? Obviously go by the hydrometer readings but I'm on day 8 now and plan to take another hydrometer reading tonight. If it's the same as my one from yesterday, I was going to bottle. Yes, no..?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭merc230ce


    I_am_LOST wrote: »
    I thought 1 week was usually sufficient for fermentation for kit brewing? Obviously go by the hydrometer readings but I'm on day 8 now and plan to take another hydrometer reading tonight. If it's the same as my one from yesterday, I was going to bottle. Yes, no..?

    As I understand it (based on what I've read, not on my limited experience!) if you leave it to ferment for another week or two the yeasties get a chance to 'clean up' after themselves, getting rid of compounds that can cause off-flavours, after their main work of making alcohol is done. I left my first brew in primary for 3 weeks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    took the hydrometer reading - 1.014 & has a nice colour.
    BeerNut wrote: »
    Yeah, I'd be taking one every 2-3 days now.

    Day 11? Regardless of the hydrometer I'd give it at least a fortnight.

    why bother with taking a reading? is it not better to let the brew sit undisturbed?
    I_am_LOST wrote: »
    I thought 1 week was usually sufficient for fermentation for kit brewing? Obviously go by the hydrometer readings but I'm on day 8 now and plan to take another hydrometer reading tonight. If it's the same as my one from yesterday, I was going to bottle. Yes, no..?

    i've read that 7-10 days is enough/when your hydrometer reading is the same 3 day's in a row, but the longer you leave it the better & my kit says wait for a 1.010 reading.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    took the hydrometer reading - 1.014

    that reading might have been wrong, I have taken 2 since both reading 1.016 - i'm going to take another reading tomorrow and if it's the same i think i'm going to bottle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭3greenrizla's


    well i've got 30 bottles of beer sitting in the corner of the room (used 1.5 carb drops in 500ml bottles).

    didn't go that well though. I somehow lost the filter that goes on the end of my syphon, so I know my beer will have a lot of sediment & I don't think the last few bottles will be drinkable.

    I learned a few things.
    Washing mouldy bottles is a pain in the hole. Starting NOW i am going to wash bottles after I use them & not let them build up.
    Siphons can be started with a (sterilised) turkey baster.
    A siphon clip would have been very handy (along with a filter) & is on my must get list.
    there was no issue with the hammer capper, I found it handy enough.
    the process took 3 - 4 hours I expect this time to go down with experience though.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭calvin_zola


    Hi all, I started my Coopers stout brew recently and thought I would share some photos of it considering the invaluable advice I have received of Beernut, Saruman et all.... So here goes -

    I started my yeast starter on Tuesday evening. Boiled 1 cup DME with 3.5 cups of Water for 10 mins, reduced this to a heat of 21C and stirred it up, added the yeast, stirred it up. Covered with cling film and a rubber band so as to allow Co2 to escape......
    CZs_homebrew5.jpg

    It began to froth at the top and C02 was escaping so I left it over night -
    Next day it was still going fine afaik -
    CZs_homebrew4.jpg

    So after sanitizing everything the next day i decided to make a hop tea with progress hops so as to add a oatmeal flavour to the stout..

    CZs_homebrew6.jpg

    Mixed up all the beer kit ingrediants, added the hop tea/water

    CZs_homebrew8.jpg

    Cuppa Tae

    CZs_homebrew7.jpg

    Topped it up to the 25 litre mark with Icy water, mixed it up, temperature was bang on 22.... threw in the yeast starter..... And stored in the corner of the bedroom

    CZs_homebrew9.jpg


    Took a hydrometer reading after adding and stirring in the yeas.. 1.045 at the start beer category of it...

    Airlock is bubbling away since and the temperature is at 21celcius constant....

    CZs_homebrew10.jpg

    After an hour or so I had relised I had sealed the fermenter with the laddle still inside it lol :rolleyes: removed it, Hopefully it wont have contaminated it, I had it proper sanitised before hand.....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭calvin_zola


    Also I'll be photodocumenting my homebrewing at -

    http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc55/decky_eire/HomeBrewing/My%20first%20ever%20brew/

    password - homebrew

    If anyone is interested

    All the best!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭calvin_zola


    Hi guys my 3 weeks fermenting for this is up so i thought that Id upload this pic and ask for some advice

    CZs_homebrew16.jpg

    I think the sample should be in the yellow 'bottle' section of the hydrometer before I bottle, is it still to early to bottle??


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Looks ready for bottling to me. The numbers are the only thing that matter. When the gravity is consistent for a few days, fermentation is finished.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭calvin_zola


    cool cheers again Beernut, hopefully can get to doing this tonight or Monday , excited now!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭calvin_zola


    BeerNut wrote: »
    Looks ready for bottling to me. The numbers are the only thing that matter. When the gravity is consistent for a few days, fermentation is finished.


    actually the gravity is at 1.160..... is this bad I was under the impression it should have been around 1.080 in order to bottle or else there will be excess sugar


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭merc230ce


    Something's not right about that reading I'd say. Try taking a reading of plain water at 20deg - it should be 1.000 - and that might show you that either your hydrometer is faulty (equipment malfunction) or you're reading it wrong (pilot error ;-)


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    actually the gravity is at 1.160
    If you mean 1.016, that's a little on the high side but well within the finishing zone. It'd be rare to get a beer down to 1.008 unless you used loads of table sugar and not much malt.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭calvin_zola


    merc230ce wrote: »
    Something's not right about that reading I'd say. Try taking a reading of plain water at 20deg - it should be 1.000 - and that might show you that either your hydrometer is faulty (equipment malfunction) or you're reading it wrong (pilot error ;-)

    its not quite at 1.000 about 4 millimeters over it...... which would make my beer at 1.011... New hydrometer methinks lol
    BeerNut wrote: »
    If you mean 1.016, that's a little on the high side but well within the finishing zone. It'd be rare to get a beer down to 1.008 unless you used loads of table sugar and not much malt.

    no bothers, I think its actually at 1.011, so i'll leave till monday and get it bottled

    thanks lads


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭calvin_zola


    couldnt resist and capped a bottle of this after 10 days. Im so pleased with the outcome, a rich burnt taste which I attribute to the hops and a nice substantial head on it. Hopefully it will be even better tonight after the 3 weeks bottling is over


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