Radian binding problem

Ilyushin76

I having problems re-binding my radian glider with my spectrum dx5e.It binds ok but the elevator control is now on the left stick and the rudder works when I move the right stick up and down.I checked the receiver and all the parts are plugged into their appropriate slot.Anybody know what's wrong ?

Plug

Your defently sure they are not mixed up? It fairly tight for space were they plug in so it might be a bit hard to see.

Kashkai

Take out all of the servo plugs from the receiver and reinsert them one by one starting with the motor. Make sure you put them in the right way round. The servo wire from the rudder goes into the "Aileron" port (the rudder is normally on the left stick of the transmitter for most models but on the right stick for the Radian, hence why it is plugged into the aileron port instead of the rudder port) and the elevator goes into the "Elevator" port on the Radian so you have control of the moving surfaces through the right stick of your DX5e. This should get you back up and running. It would be a good idea to check that all the control surfaces are working in the correct direction once the rebinding is done.

Ilyushin76

Thanks for the replies,got it sorted.The rudder wire was in the rudder port.Is the elevator meant to go down when I move the control down or is it the opposite way it should go?

Bruthal

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Thanks for the replies,got it sorted.The rudder wire was in the rudder port.Is the elevator meant to go down when I move the control down or is it the opposite way it should go?

On 3 channel planes the rudder will be in the aileron socket. So it is a 3 channel (original) radian i assume.

The elevator should go up when you pull the elevator stick toward you on the radio.

Are you going to try flying this? It sounds like you would be needing assistance before trying it.

Kashkai

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Thanks for the replies,got it sorted.The rudder wire was in the rudder port.Is the elevator meant to go down when I move the control down or is it the opposite way it should go?

Push the elevator control forward (away from you) and the elevator should go down and the plane descends. Pull the stick back towards you and the elevator goes up and the plane climbs.

I know of someone who was so eager to get a new plane in the air that he forgot to check the elevator travel direction and so when he pulled back to climb,......... well lets just say it was a real short flight:o:D

Bruthal

My best one was taking off and forgetting to extend the 35mhz aerial:eek:. Also a short flight. A long time ago though, in the phoenix park.

Ilyushin76

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

Push the elevator control forward (away from you) and the elevator should go down and the plane descends. Pull the stick back towards you and the elevator goes up and the plane climbs.

I know of someone who was so eager to get a new plane in the air that he forgot to check the elevator travel direction and so when he pulled back to climb,......... well lets just say it was a real short flight:o:D

Thanks I had the transmitter set up for the trojan,the elevator control on the transmitter needs to be set in opposite way when flying the radian.

Ps I ordered the 160 mah batteries from hobbyking,10 for €15 delivered should keep me flying for a while

Bruthal

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Thanks I had the transmitter set up for the trojan,the elevator control on the transmitter needs to be set in opposite way when flying the radian.

Ps I ordered the 160 mah batteries from hobbyking,10 for €15 delivered should keep me flying for a while

Must be a micro trojan is it?

Kashkai

robbie7730 wrote: »

Must be a micro trojan is it?

Yes it is. I wonder where he bought it;)

Once he masters the micro Trojan, then he should look at buying its big brother which is a great introduction to warbirds.

Alternatively he could buy a DX6i which would allow him to bind his planes just the once and then it would be a matter of clicking some buttons on the transmitter to select which plane he wants to fly. It takes a lot of fiddling out of equation with having to bind a plane, make sure its control surfaces are set up correctly, re-trimming the plane each time etc etc etc.

Bruthal

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

Yes it is. I wonder where he bought it;)

Once he masters the micro Trojan, then he should look at buying its big brother which is a great introduction to warbirds.

Alternatively he could buy a DX6i which would allow him to bind his planes just the once and then it would be a matter of clicking some buttons on the transmitter to select which plane he wants to fly. It takes a lot of fiddling out of equation with having to bind a plane, make sure its control surfaces are set up correctly, re-trimming the plane each time etc etc etc.

Yea they are great them DX6i`s. I got one for my lad at xmas. If they think they are going to continue on in the flying, its definitely the way to go alright.

Ilyushin76

Think I will have to get invest in the dx6i alright.I brought the trojan for a flight after binding the radian and forgot to check the trims and the plane struggled to turn right ,luckily and I was flying in a big space and manged to land it without any damage.

I was flying a few days ago and the second led on the dx5e lit up,I thought this was a indication of low batteries so I put 4 new batteries into it and it still came on.Anybody know what's wrong?

Bruthal

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Think I will have to get invest in the dx6i alright.I brought the trojan for a flight after binding the radian and forgot to check the trims and the plane struggled to turn right ,luckily and I was flying in a big space and manged to land it without any damage.

I was flying a few days ago and the second led on the dx5e lit up,I thought this was a indication of low batteries so I put 4 new batteries into it and it still came on.Anybody know what's wrong?

That should not be a problem, they should be ok down to the red light, at which point landing would be required, but i would change them when the 3rd green comes on. I must do a check as to what voltage they are at when the 3rd green lights.

Ilyushin76

Thanks Robbie that's good to know ,they are rechargeable batteries which maybe why it goes straight to the second led ?

Did you ever receive anything from hobbyking that was delivered by swiss post?I ordered batteries and the tracking just says left country of origin and hasn't changed since Monday,just wondering how long they should take.

Kashkai

Don't hold your breath waiting on Hobbyking. Some of my orders have taken four weeks to arrive. They're still a hell of a lot cheaper than anyone else, if you don't mind waiting

FYI
My loss of control with my Radian happened when the batteries got too weak. The DX5 lights were on the second from the right, which is more than you're showing. I use energiser lithiums now as they last for months. The trouble with rechargables is that one minute, they're fine, the next you could lose power. The DX6i has a battery power indicator that let's you know how much juice is left in your tx's batteries. Spektrum advise changing the batteries once they get down to 4.8v.

You could do a range check to see if you have control out past 30 paces.

Bruthal

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Thanks Robbie that's good to know ,they are rechargeable batteries which maybe why it goes straight to the second led ?

Did you ever receive anything from hobbyking that was delivered by swiss post?I ordered batteries and the tracking just says left country of origin and hasn't changed since Monday,just wondering how long they should take.

I actually had rechargeables mentioned in my reply , asking if thats what you were using, but removed it because i then seen you had new batteries mentioned and assumed non rechargeables.

I used rechargeables in the dx5e all the time, without a problem.

Rechargables will drop to the second light(third from left) quicker than standard AA`s, as fresh off the charger they drop a little even when not in use, but they will then remain steady for longer at this position. But as soon as they drop to the 3rd light(second from left), you would want to land and recharge.

Another problem with nimh ones is they discharge a bit while not in use, so if you left it a week or 2, you should then recharge, even if you did not use since the last re-charge.

The rechargables have a nominal(middle between full charge and discharge) voltage of 1.2, but this is the minimum level i would let them go to before charging.

Bruthal

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

Don't hold your breath waiting on Hobbyking. Some of my orders have taken four weeks to arrive. They're still a hell of a lot cheaper than anyone else, if you don't mind waiting

FYI
My loss of control with my Radian happened when the batteries got too weak. The DX5 lights were on the second from the right, which is more than you're showing.

I think he means by the second light that its the 3rd from the left. The first to light with new batteries is the 4th from left, second is 3rd from left, or 2nd from right.

You lost control at second from right? Thats just 1 down from new batteries? They should of been fine at that.

Anyway all of them problems are gone with the DX6i, which has a regulator in it, and a proper volt meter. Im not sure about the dx5e with regard to a regulator.

Kashkai

Yup. My Rad sailed off by herself while I was on the 3rd light from the left or second from the right, whichever way you want to look at it (made me distrust the DX5 which is one if the reasons I bought the DX6i). Anyways I'm fairly paranoid about having fresh batteries in my tx and doing a range check before flight. I replaced the stock AR500 rx with a AR6200 with satellite to give a better all round reception. At the height and distance I fly the Rad, I want the best possible radiolink.

Bruthal

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

Yup. My Rad sailed off by herself while I was on the 3rd light from the left or second from the right, whichever way you want to look at it (made me distrust the DX5 which is one if the reasons I bought the DX6i). Anyways I'm fairly paranoid about having fresh batteries in my tx and doing a range check before flight. I replaced the stock AR500 rx with a AR6200 with satellite to give a better all round reception. At the height and distance I fly the Rad, I want the best possible radiolink.

I dont blame ye being paranoid with that outcome with only the second light in sequence from full being lit, there should be plenty of time with that lit. I would usually fly with that lit no bother, and land then with the 3rd in sequence lit.

Im not sure what the regulator situation in the dx5e is. If it does not have one, then its range would diminish with the battery reduction, but it would have some output for longer.

Its important to note therefor, that the range check distance in a radio like the dx6i or any radio with a voltage regulator wont diminish as the battery level reduces, it would just suddenly stop working, so a low battery will still give full range check distance.

The range of these spektrum radios is a lot further than you would think though. I have heard the range check button diminishes the output power by 1000 times. If true, the real range would be about 30 times the range check range anyway. I seen one of the radios work at over 4kms.

Kashkai

My DX6i shows the battery power level (with fresh batteries) around the 7.2v mark. The Spektrum manual says the batteries should be replaced whe they get down to 4.8v. I don't think the led indicator lights were working correctly in my DX5 because (as you may remember;)), you gave me my first flight lesson in February 2010 and I was still using the same batteries in August 2010 when the Rad sailed away. That was pushing it considering I was flying for about an hour, 2 - 3 times a week, every week. Just to be sure, I also replaced the receiver with an upgraded one with a satellite rx.

I understand what you're saying about the range check being "fooled" by weak batteries. However, I do the range check to make sure the receiver is working ok and I go out to over 40 paces to make sure.

I've heard that the Spekkie radios can work at extreme range but when I had my flyaway last August, the Rad was only a couple of hundred feet up and just 100feet out in front of me. I was standing on a hill with clear line of sight so it wasn't a case that it flew below a ridgeline or the signal was blocked by trees.

I guess the moral of the story is if you are using a DX5e, make sure your batteries are fully charged (if rechargable) or you have a fresh set of alkalines in your tx, and do a range check to make sure your rx is working correctly. Finally, make sure the control surfaces are operating in the correct direction. This is especially important if switching between planes where the sliders under the on/off button may need to be reversed. These are just some of the reasons why a DX6i makes life so much easier;)

Bruthal

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

I understand what you're saying about the range check being "fooled" by weak batteries. However, I do the range check to make sure the receiver is working ok and I go out to over 40 paces to make sure.

I wouldnt say it gets fooled as such, i was just saying that passing the range check wont mean the batteries are good. A 3.3v regulator such as the dx7 has, needs 3.3v or more into it to give out the steady 3.3v to power the actual transmitting circuit, so when the batteries for example reach 4v, they are well discharged, but while still above the 3.3v, the range check will still be full, but the batteries will be quickly running down, and the transmitting will just suddenly stop, and drop from full to nothing, rather than gradually diminish.

I've heard that the Spekkie radios can work at extreme range but when I had my flyaway last August, the Rad was only a couple of hundred feet up and just 100feet out in front of me. I was standing on a hill with clear line of sight so it wasn't a case that it flew below a ridgeline or the signal was blocked by trees.

Yes they have a range of several km`s, but your one must of had battery indication problems by the look of it as you say. If the tx aerial is pointed directly at the plane, the receiver can lose the signal even at just a few hundred meters. It can be shown during a range check.

Try it with the aerial perpendicular to the plane, and again pointing the aerial straight at it. Its to do with the radio transmission polarity. The signal area is shaped somewhat like a huge apple of a few km`s diameter, with the upper foldable part of the aerial as the core, so no signal is transmitted from a line exactly in line with where the aerial is pointing

Ilyushin76

Thanks for the replies lads.The are new re-chargeable batteries sorry for the confusion.

I was having a look for the spectrum dx6i and found one in leitrim but he wont ship to Ireland only the uk.I will try to get one in an auction as the seem to appear quiet regularly.Can the dx6 be connected to the dx5 to teach someone else how to fly?

The shipping time with hoppyking seems to be extremly slow alright,the parcel hasn't moved since last Monday.I ordered an neck strap last week off ebay and had it today from Hong-Kong.

Bruthal

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Can the dx6 be connected to the dx5 to teach someone else how to fly?

Yes it can. We often use the dx5e as the second radio for others to have a go at flying.

Kashkai

You can buy a trainer cord to connect a DX5 and DX6 together. I use one to teach my girl how to fly my Radian and Supercub. If she gets into bother, I just have to release the trainer switch on my DX6 and I have instant control. Best way to teach someone how to fly.

How much are you willing to spend on the DX6i Illyuishin? I know a guy (not me!) who was selling one a while back. Don't know if he did sell it.

I understand what you mean about the cone of silence that comes from the tip of the tx aerial. It's the same principal that I was taught when I graduated as an air traffic controller in the late 80's. This not only affects radio waves but also radar because if a plane flies over a radar, it becomes "invisible" until it moves out of the cone of silence. The higher the plane, the bigger the dead space above the radar (think of it like an inverted pyramid).

Bruthal

Yea i have the same if i fly directly overhead of the ground station for video reception. If i am doing a high overhead flight i would lie the video tx aerial flat or at 45 degrees instead of vertical. but i would then also have to watch for the rotation of the plane compared to the polarity of the patchBut we dont rally do that, so we keep it vertical.

I forgot about your air traffic controller training. The odd time when the radian orientates so the video tx aerial points at the ground station patch aerial, the signal goes, just for an instant, or may fade a little.

The spektrum trainer cord is just a lead with mono 3.5 jack plugs on it. They can be easily made or got on ebay etc.

Ilyushin76

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

How much are you willing to spend on the DX6i Illyuishin? I know a guy (not me!) who was selling one a while back. Don't know if he did sell it.

I don't really know Dave the seem to be retailing around 150 online.If he still has it for sale and the price is right I would be interested.

What type of velcro were you using on the batteries for the trojan?

Kashkai

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

I don't really know Dave the seem to be retailing around 150 online.If he still has it for sale and the price is right I would be interested.

What type of velcro were you using on the batteries for the trojan?

I checked with him and its sold Eoghan. However I found a place selling a new one for £99 +shipping which comes to £113 in total http://www.rcpitstop.co.uk/index.asp?function=CART&ECD=2967&productid=

I've bought lots from this guy and he's very reliable.

If you want to save a quid then there's these guys:http://www.modelmaniacsonline.co.uk/basket.php

They are a little slower with delivery but they get there in the end;)

You could try fleabay but I'd be wary about buying second hand from someone you don't know in case the tx has been dropped for example. What about a local club that might have a member selling one (and you could go back to if there's a problem with it)?

With regard to the velcro, I bought some in Hickeys drapery shop in Dublin but it didn't stick too well so I bought a 1 metre roll from Hobbyking (for a euro!) which sticks too well as its a bitch to get off:D. Still its cheap and has all sorts of uses such as sticking receivers in a plane so they can be easily transplanted to another, sticking a camera to a wing and of course for sticking the battery so it doesn't move. A guy I know had his battery "eject" itself from his plane yesterday. Luckily the plane crashed with very little damage. A loose battery can quickly bring a plane down by upsetting the centre of gravity.

Ilyushin76

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

I checked with him and its sold Eoghan. However I found a place selling a new one for £99 +shipping which comes to £113 in total http://www.rcpitstop.co.uk/index.asp?function=CART&ECD=2967&productid=

I've bought lots from this guy and he's very reliable.

If you want to save a quid then there's these guys:http://www.modelmaniacsonline.co.uk/basket.php

They are a little slower with delivery but they get there in the end;)

You could try fleabay but I'd be wary about buying second hand from someone you don't know in case the tx has been dropped for example. What about a local club that might have a member selling one (and you could go back to if there's a problem with it)?

With regard to the velcro, I bought some in Hickeys drapery shop in Dublin but it didn't stick too well so I bought a 1 metre roll from Hobbyking (for a euro!) which sticks too well as its a bitch to get off:D. Still its cheap and has all sorts of uses such as sticking receivers in a plane so they can be easily transplanted to another, sticking a camera to a wing and of course for sticking the battery so it doesn't move. A guy I know had his battery "eject" itself from his plane yesterday. Luckily the plane crashed with very little damage. A loose battery can quickly bring a plane down by upsetting the centre of gravity.

Thanks for the links.I will try flying the radian some evening and see how I get on.If it goes good I will order the dx6i if not I will stick with dx5 and the trojan for a while.There isn't much point in a second remote if I can only fly one plane .

I got the batteries from hobbyking this morning and stuck some velcro I had lying around the house on them and it kept peeling off.I will order some from hobbyking ,hopefully their quicker this time.

Kashkai

Its a bit of a lottery with Hobbyking when it comes to delivery. I've gotten stuff inside two weeks but have waited up to five weeks for an order.

The DX6i is a far superior tx to the DX5e and I'd heartily recommend that it be your next investment if you stay with this hobby.

You might be interested to know that Hobbyking have just released a new range of warbirds that sit between the micro planes like your Trojan and the Parkzone range of "full size" warbirds. They are getting great reviews, they look very nice and they are very cheap, around €46 (plus delivery but if you're ordering velcro anyway.....?;):D)
Me109
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17945__Messerschmitt_BF109E_w_Stand_650mm_PNF_.html

Spitfire
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17946__Spitfire_MkIXC_w_Stand_650mm_PNF_.html

Focke Wolf 190
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18081__FW190D_Focke_Wulf_650mm_w_Stand_PNF.html

And there's a Ju87 Stuka on the way soon.

Have to admit that I'm tempted to buy one as I'll be ordering some new batteries anyways:D

coolwings

I looked at those warbirds and was interested for a bit.
Then I noticed the battery .... a 2S 600-800.
That sounds more like like indoorfly rather than parkfly power, considering Irish weather requirements I mean, or maybe designed for a continental country like France, Spain, with no wind.

What did you have in the Trojan?

Kashkai

coolwings wrote: »

I looked at those warbirds and was interested for a bit.
Then I noticed the battery .... a 2S 600-800.
That sounds more like like indoorfly rather than parkfly power, considering Irish weather requirements I mean, or maybe designed for a continental country like France, Spain, with no wind.

What did you have in the Trojan?

I used 180mah batteries in the micro Trojan.

I agree that the smaller planes are limited by the wind but if you're competent enough, they can provide you with a challenge to your skills flying them in the wind.

Bigger planes is where I'll be going next in this hobby but a small plane that you can carry round in the boot of your car for a quick impromptu fly has it's place too.

coolwings

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

... but a small plane that you can carry round in the boot of your car for a quick impromptu fly has it's place too.

I'm totally with you there!
My 1 metre fixed wing, or 1.5 metre take apart wing planes are always the ones I get most flights out of.
Bigger is nice, but requires more setup and pack away time.

Ilyushin76

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

Its a bit of a lottery with Hobbyking when it comes to delivery. I've gotten stuff inside two weeks but have waited up to five weeks for an order.

The DX6i is a far superior tx to the DX5e and I'd heartily recommend that it be your next investment if you stay with this hobby.

You might be interested to know that Hobbyking have just released a new range of warbirds that sit between the micro planes like your Trojan and the Parkzone range of "full size" warbirds. They are getting great reviews, they look very nice and they are very cheap, around €46 (plus delivery but if you're ordering velcro anyway.....?;):D)
Me109
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17945__Messerschmitt_BF109E_w_Stand_650mm_PNF_.html

Spitfire
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17946__Spitfire_MkIXC_w_Stand_650mm_PNF_.html

Focke Wolf 190
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18081__FW190D_Focke_Wulf_650mm_w_Stand_PNF.html

And there's a Ju87 Stuka on the way soon.

Have to admit that I'm tempted to buy one as I'll be ordering some new batteries anyways:D

They look tempting alright think I will wait awhile before I buy another plane.The dx6i will probably be my next investment.
I flew the radian and had a much better time flying it after I had flown the trojan.Only problem was it turned left alot quicker than it turned right,I moved the rudder trims and it helped but it still was still not great.The fuselage seems to be a small bit bend after I crashing it and glueing it back together.I thought this might be causing the problem but I am not sure.I think I will try and get a new fuselage (which seem to be quiet hard to locate) and see if it fixes the problem.

Kashkai

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

They look tempting alright think I will wait awhile before I buy another plane.The dx6i will probably be my next investment.
I flew the radian and had a much better time flying it after I had flown the trojan.Only problem was it turned left alot quicker than it turned right,I moved the rudder trims and it helped but it still was still not great.The fuselage seems to be a small bit bend after I crashing it and glueing it back together.I thought this might be causing the problem but I am not sure.I think I will try and get a new fuselage (which seem to be quiet hard to locate) and see if it fixes the problem.

The DX6i would be a great investment as its a big step up from your DX5e and will let you do so much more with regard to setting up your planes. My problem is that I now have 8 planes and one heli which leaves me with just spare slot on my DX6i for another plane and after that, I'll either have to delete a plane (which is a pain as I'll lose all the programming) or buy a new tx.

With regard to the Radian, is the rudder dead straight when its on the ground? If not, then manually adjust it by opening the clevis and straighten the rudder. If it is straight, then yes your plane is out of true, but it could be the wings as well as the fuze. You could try balancing it on the recommended centre of gravity to see if it tips one way or the other and then add a little weight to the opposite side to counteract this. These planes are finely balanced and it doesn't take much to throw them out of true. However if she's not turning herself when in flight, then just use the trim tab on the rudder to get her straight again.

I put a few links to shops that have Radian fuzes in stock on another thread but you might want to move quick as the Radian has now been discontinued:(

Ilyushin76

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

The DX6i would be a great investment as its a big step up from your DX5e and will let you do so much more with regard to setting up your planes. My problem is that I now have 8 planes and one heli which leaves me with just spare slot on my DX6i for another plane and after that, I'll either have to delete a plane (which is a pain as I'll lose all the programming) or buy a new tx.

With regard to the Radian, is the rudder dead straight when its on the ground? If not, then manually adjust it by opening the clevis and straighten the rudder. If it is straight, then yes your plane is out of true, but it could be the wings as well as the fuze. You could try balancing it on the recommended centre of gravity to see if it tips one way or the other and then add a little weight to the opposite side to counteract this. These planes are finely balanced and it doesn't take much to throw them out of true. However if she's not turning herself when in flight, then just use the trim tab on the rudder to get her straight again.

I put a few links to shops that have Radian fuzes in stock on another thread but you might want to move quick as the Radian has now been discontinued:(

The rudder is straight when its on the ground but needs a bit of trim to straighten it.I brought it up for another flight awhile ago and after about 5 minitues I seen a piece falling from the radian :eek:which turned out to be the propeller.I was quiet high and managed to land it.I attached a picture of t what is left.I am not sure why it happened.I had a look at the links might get the one from ebay.I will get the propeller set first anyways and see if it still flies.

Bruthal

That looks like it was caused by the nut coming loose on the fromt of the prop holder. I usualy use a little superglue on the threads of that.

Ilyushin76

robbie7730 wrote: »

That looks like it was caused by the nut coming loose on the fromt of the prop holder. I usualy use a little superglue on the threads of that.

Thanks Robbie, is there any-point looking for it or would I be better off just ordering another one?

Bruthal

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Thanks Robbie, is there any-point looking for it or would I be better off just ordering another one?

It depends where is was, as in what type of ground, but it would be very hard to find, you really would of had to have someone watch it right till is came to the ground and then walk directly to it.

Once you left the area it would be very hard to go back and find it.

Ilyushin76

robbie7730 wrote: »

It depends where is was, as in what type of ground, but it would be very hard to find, you really would of had to have someone watch it right till is came to the ground and then walk directly to it.

Once you left the area it would be very hard to go back and find it.

I have a general idea where it landed.I seen it falling but had to watch the plane so didn't see it hit the ground.I had a look after it fell off but couldn't find it.Are these the parts I need to get 1 and 2 ?

Kashkai

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

I have a general idea where it landed.I seen it falling but had to watch the plane so didn't see it hit the ground.I had a look after it fell off but couldn't find it.Are these the parts I need to get 1 and 2 ?

Yup, they're the parts you need. I'd suggest buying them from RCPitstop.co.uk as he has them for in and around the same price and his service is excellent, e.g. I bought a micro Sukhoi XP, MSR heli and a new motor for my Me109 last Wednesday and I received them Friday.

That tiny black screw in picture two is the cause of you losing the prop and spinner. That is the grub screw which holds the prop and spinner assembley onto the motor shaft. The vibration of the prop coupled with the high rpms causes it to loosen over time and you know now what happens then;). As Robbie suggested, a drop of Uhu glue (commonly known as threadlock) on the grub screw prior to insertion will hold it in place in future.

Saying that, you might be lucky finding the prop and spinner as I'd say they probably windmilled to the ground like a mini heli when it came loose. It has low mass and so the impact with the ground wouldn't have been great, unless it came down on a rock or concrete.

You're really not having much luck with your Rad lately are you? Good job you have a nice micro Trojan to fall back on;):D

I'll be heading down your way next week for a holiday. Where is a good place to fly in west Clare? Or are the landowners as protective of their fields as they are in Kildare where I live:rolleyes:

Bruthal

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

That tiny black screw in picture two is the cause of you losing the prop and spinner. That is the grub screw which holds the prop and spinner assembley onto the motor shaft.

I doesnt look like that was the cause here, the front nut came off the hex spinner holder by the look of it in his photo. The hex bit thats held with the grub screw is still on the shaft. Superglue any screws in is the way alright.

i usually use bits of insulating tape folded around the prop leading edges to perfectly balance the blades also, which reduces vibration, which improves performance and reduces the chance of parts working loose.

The improvement can be felt by running full throttle with the plane in hand, and trial and error fitting of small squares of tape around the prop leading edge and re testing.

The original blades on the early radians used to snap in flight, due to a flaw in them, so the sons radian has an aeronaut prop and spinner setup on it. The collet clamp for fitting to the shaft is far better than the grub screw setup of the stock one.

Kashkai

Where did you buy the aeronaut prop? My Rad's prop is looking a little ragged round the edges. Its one of the original Parkzone props - the ones that are known to snap off :eek: - and I should replace it before something nasty happens.

Bruthal

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

Where did you buy the aeronaut prop? My Rad's prop is looking a little ragged round the edges. Its one of the original Parkzone props - the ones that are known to snap off :eek: - and I should replace it before something nasty happens.

here are the actual parts i used. Radian has great climbing performance with this, as the prop is a bit bigger.

prop blades
http://www.gliders.uk.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AERO7234%2E31

hub yoke
http://www.gliders.uk.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AERO7242%2E24

spinner (white)
http://www.gliders.uk.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AERO7251%2E50

collet adaptor (motor shaft clamp 4mm)
http://www.gliders.uk.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AERO7124%2E04


The above is far better than the stock setup, and are the actual parts suitable for the radian. I had 3 prop breakages in flight on the original props. It is more serious than the loss of the complete prop, as it will quickly wreck the front of the radian with one blade missing if it was high enough that you dont hear the problem.

The radian props now are fine, but the above aeronaut system is better, eliminating that grub screw setup with the far better collet setup.

Ilyushin76

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

Yup, they're the parts you need. I'd suggest buying them from RCPitstop.co.uk as he has them for in and around the same price and his service is excellent, e.g. I bought a micro Sukhoi XP, MSR heli and a new motor for my Me109 last Wednesday and I received them Friday.

That tiny black screw in picture two is the cause of you losing the prop and spinner. That is the grub screw which holds the prop and spinner assembley onto the motor shaft. The vibration of the prop coupled with the high rpms causes it to loosen over time and you know now what happens then;). As Robbie suggested, a drop of Uhu glue (commonly known as threadlock) on the grub screw prior to insertion will hold it in place in future.

Saying that, you might be lucky finding the prop and spinner as I'd say they probably windmilled to the ground like a mini heli when it came loose. It has low mass and so the impact with the ground wouldn't have been great, unless it came down on a rock or concrete.

You're really not having much luck with your Rad lately are you? Good job you have a nice micro Trojan to fall back on;):D

I'll be heading down your way next week for a holiday. Where is a good place to fly in west Clare? Or are the landowners as protective of their fields as they are in Kildare where I live:rolleyes:

Thanks Dave I ordered them from rcpitstop.Will put glue on the screws when I put it together.I was actually looking at the sukhoi on ebay but decided not to get it.How does it fly compared to the micro trojan?

I'm lucky I have the trojan alright,it hasn't caused me any problems and has survived a few bad landing attempts with the landing gear on .I got the velcro for the batteries today from hobbyking but it doesn't have tape on the back.I used super glue to stick it to the batteries but it wasn't very strong.I used gorilla glue now which I hope will be better.

I'm surprised though that the nut came lose as this was only my second real flight with it.Is it a complicated job to transfer the parts over to another fuselage?

There is not too many places to fly in west Clare that I know of.I just go to a field near my house to fly.

Kashkai

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Thanks Dave I ordered them from rcpitstop.Will put glue on the screws when I put it together.I was actually looking at the sukhoi on ebay but decided not to get it.How does it fly compared to the micro trojan?

I'm lucky I have the trojan alright,it hasn't caused me any problems and has survived a few bad landing attempts with the landing gear on .I got the velcro for the batteries today from hobbyking but it doesn't have tape on the back.I used super glue to stick it to the batteries but it wasn't very strong.I used gorilla glue now which I hope will be better.

I'm surprised though that the nut came lose as this was only my second real flight with it.Is it a complicated job to transfer the parts over to another fuselage?

There is not too many places to fly in west Clare that I know of.I just go to a field near my house to fly.

Hi Eoghan

The Sukhoi is a mental little plane that has made me look quite foolish trying to master it:o. Good job there was no one around to see me fighting to get control of it:D. She is definitely the hardest plane I have to fly so perhaps you should leave it a while longer before you get one;). I'd leave the landing gear off the Trojan. It'll not only save weight and thus extend flight time, but she looks better and you'll land better with a gentle belly flop.

The velcro I ordered from Hobbyking comes with backing paper that you peel off and then you stick the velcro to the plane/battery. This is the one I bought:http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9374. Its super strong and doesn't budge when peeling the battery out of the plane.

Its very easy to transfer parts over to a new fuselage. I can talk you through it via pm if you get a new fuse. I had to do it last year after I crashed my Radian following a silly attempt at a loop too close to the ground. It only took about 20 minutes from start to finish to get the new fuse kitted out.

How are you getting on with the flying? Hope the little mishaps aren't putting you off. Remember, there are two types of rc flyers, those who have suffered mishaps and those who soon will:D

Ilyushin76

Prosperous Dave wrote: »

Hi Eoghan

The Sukhoi is a mental little plane that has made me look quite foolish trying to master it:o. Good job there was no one around to see me fighting to get control of it:D. She is definitely the hardest plane I have to fly so perhaps you should leave it a while longer before you get one;). I'd leave the landing gear off the Trojan. It'll not only save weight and thus extend flight time, but she looks better and you'll land better with a gentle belly flop.

The velcro I ordered from Hobbyking comes with backing paper that you peel off and then you stick the velcro to the plane/battery. This is the one I bought:http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9374. Its super strong and doesn't budge when peeling the battery out of the plane.

Its very easy to transfer parts over to a new fuselage. I can talk you through it via pm if you get a new fuse. I had to do it last year after I crashed my Radian following a silly attempt at a loop too close to the ground. It only took about 20 minutes from start to finish to get the new fuse kitted out.

How are you getting on with the flying? Hope the little mishaps aren't putting you off. Remember, there are two types of rc flyers, those who have suffered mishaps and those who soon will:D

Thanks for the help Dave.Unfortunately I ordered the wrong velcro which has no sticky side.I used gorilla glue and it worked perfectly.

I am going to order the radian fuselage from the US tomorrow and will sent you a pm when I get it for help putting it together.Do I need to order any other parts or can I get the rest of the parts from my original radian?

I am getting on good now flying the trojan with no crashes when flying without the gear.I put on the gear and done a few takeoffs and landings on my driveway .It was quiet hard landing it has there is trees at one end and telephone lines on the other.I aborted some of the landings and had a few crashes into trees but no damage done to the trojan.I think I will stick to belly landings in the field anymore:D.

It was only my second real flight with the radian when the propeller fell off.I was doing well flying it but had as I was saying previously I had problems with the rudder controls.I was amazed at how slow it could fly and it must have took me over ten attempts before I managed to land it as it kept gliding.:D

Kashkai

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Thanks for the help Dave.Unfortunately I ordered the wrong velcro which has no sticky side.I used gorilla glue and it worked perfectly.

I am going to order the radian fuselage from the US tomorrow and will sent you a pm when I get it for help putting it together.Do I need to order any other parts or can I get the rest of the parts from my original radian?

I am getting on good now flying the trojan with no crashes when flying without the gear.I put on the gear and done a few takeoffs and landings on my driveway .It was quiet hard landing it has there is trees at one end and telephone lines on the other.I aborted some of the landings and had a few crashes into trees but no damage done to the trojan.I think I will stick to belly landings in the field anymore:D.

It was only my second real flight with the radian when the propeller fell off.I was doing well flying it but had as I was saying previously I had problems with the rudder controls.I was amazed at how slow it could fly and it must have took me over ten attempts before I managed to land it as it kept gliding.:D

You'll just need the fuse Eoghan. The new fuse should come with the control rods for the elevator and rudder pre-installed. Then its just a case of fitting the horizontal stab (or elevator if you want to call it that) to the tail and taping in place. I'd also invest in some blenderm 3M surgical tape to reinforce the rudder and elevator control surfaces as the rudder on my new Radian fuse was almost detached when I bought it. The blenderm tape is designed to hold fast to human skin even when its moving and flexing and so won't come loose from the Radian foam. My tape is still in place 16 months later. Here it is http://www.brchobbies.com/?page=search&sort=priceDesc&resultPage=0&search=blenderm

Remove the servos from the old fuse and stick them in the new fuse by using some silicone (the stuff you'd use to seal round sinks, showers etc). This is better than gluing the servos in because if you need to replace a servo in the future, it'll be easier to remove than if it was glued in place. Connect up the control rods to the correct servo. You might find it easier to unscrew the servo arm to fit it on the control rod 'z' bend.

Remove the rx from the old fuse and use velcro to stick into the new fuse. Run the antennae lead up into the cockpit and stick in place with some tape. Insert the esc in its bay using some velcro but not too much as it needs to have airflow over it to keep it cool. Too much velcro and it will overheat, the rx will lose power and shut down and bye bye plane:(.

Then put the motor in, connect up the prop and spinner and route all your leads to the rx and insert therein.

Once this is done, connect up the battery to let the servos centre themselves (make sure you've reset the trim tabs on your DX5e to neutral) and then connect the control rods at the tail.

Then check to see if the control surfaces are operating correctly and do a test run on the motor.

Job done. Simples;):D

The Rad does fly slowly but she can glide for what seems an age and she can be hard to get down to the ground sometimes. I've had to abort lots of landings where I was quickly running out of room to land.

The micro Trojans wheels are really designed for smooth surfaces like an indoor sports hall. Any kind of rough surface will trip it up. Thats why I hand launched her and belly landed her. She's so light though that she can flop down without damage. My new Sukhoi XP is the same which is a good job as some of my "landings" were actually controlled crashes where I knew I was losing her so I just chopped the throttle and let her land in long grass which cushioned the fall. If I can master her, I'll have earned my wings:D

Ilyushin76

Thanks for the very informative post Dave.Can I just pull out the servos from the old fuselage ?

Bruthal

You can catch the radian out of the air to shorten landings. I nearly always catch them. Not the cularis though.

Bruthal

Ilyushin76 wrote: »

Thanks for the very informative post Dave.Can I just pull out the servos from the old fuselage ?

Yea you can, then clear away any residue from them. You should keep the old fuselage because pieces can be cut out of it to fix any dents or damage you may get on the new one. Im repairing one now, and could so with a piece of the foam.

Ilyushin76

robbie7730 wrote: »

Yea you can, then clear away any residue from them. You should keep the old fuselage because pieces can be cut out of it to fix any dents or damage you may get on the new one. Im repairing one now, and could so with a piece of the foam.

Thanks Robbie.It seems strange they stopped making the radian and supplying the parts for it when there seems to be a big demand for it