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Final build info. Would appreciate some feedback :)
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11-07-2011 4:09pm#1
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64GB is more than enough to install Windows 7 with your most common used programs and maybe even a game or two. So you could cut the SSD back and get a nice 1TB Samsung F3. And personally I would advise you to get a HDD with the build even if it's just 500GB or 250GB because they are so cheap and worth the piece of mind imo.
But having a 128GB SSD has it's benefits also. For one, the bigger your SSD the faster the drive is. But having that extra space on my boot drive I think is important as I would like to place ALL my programs onto it without worrying about space.
With your build you could cut back in other places to get the cash for a HDD if you did want to keep the bigger SSD. For example do you really need a z68 mobo? P67 would probably be plenty fine for your needs. And do you need the Extreme board, the Pro might do you.
Your Low latencies RAM is more expensive than it needs to be. Some PC3-12800 CL9 RAM would actually be faster than Low latency PC3-1066 CL7
And in real world usage you really won't notice any difference in the speed of PC3-1066 CL9 RAM
And again if you wanted to save money, your case is quite expensive. The Fractal Design R3 is a great case, it's cheaper and it's actually in stock :P
Or a very similar case, and it looks to be a good quality case(might need you to buy a fan or two for it, only cost about €5). http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=41084&agid=631
All just the opinions of someone who knows very little, but lot's to think about there
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Hi guys I know I've been thread hopping a bit here lately but as I'm still only new to this scene I just wanted to throw out as many questions as I could especially as everyone on here is so helpful. I've been humming and hawing over some components but after a lot of consideration and chopping/changing I've finally settled on a build I'm happy with. I know the SSD is pretty expensive but I decided that since I'm already putting so much money into it I want the best I can do.
Just looking for some confirmation that I haven't fudged anything up and all these components will work okay together. If all goes to plan I should be ordering in a couple of weeks. Thanks again for all the help, its been great!
Total build cost: €977.52 + €30 shipping
Intel Core i5-2500K Box, LGA1155 €173.55
Sapphire HD 6950 Dirt3, 2GB GDDR5 PCI-Express €220.36
Super-Flower Amazon 80Plus 550W €52.94
Cooler Master HAF Mini Windows 922M ohne Netzteil €104.03
LG GH22NS50 bare schwarz €19.22
ASRock Z68 Extreme4 (B3), Sockel 1155, ATX €147.89
8GB-Kit G-Skill Ripjaws PC3-10667U CL7 €62.09
Crucial M4 128GB SSD 6,4cm (2,5") €179.54
ASUS PCE-N10 €17.90
Power supply : they have a corsair 600W a bit cheaper than the amazon 550W . i'm not advising against the amazon , but i think the corsair has a better reputation
if you want to get more freedom of movement with your pc , try to add a 300 mbps usb wireless adaptor ,it costs 11 quid only the 1 u pciked is 150 mbps ,why usb !! to free a pci slot .
from what i know if you are a dedicated gamer , then you should have a proper cpu cooler .in that case get an i5 2500 without the "K" .as K stands for intel cooler ,(nothing to do with the performance )
asrock dont supply enough sata cables 2 with the extreme mobo
add 1 in case u want to get a HDD , they r very cheap €0.58 .
all the best0 -
Power supply : they have a corsair 600W a bit cheaper than the amazon 550W . i'm not advising against the amazon , but i think the corsair has a better reputation if you want to get more freedom of movement with your pc , try to add a 300 mbps usb wireless adaptor ,it costs 11 quid only the 1 u pciked is 150 mbps ,why usb !! to free a pci slot .
from what i know if you are a dedicated gamer , then you should have a proper cpu cooler .in that case get an i5 2500 without the "K" .as K stands for intel cooler ,(nothing to do with the performance )
asrock dont supply enough sata cables 2 with the extreme mobo add 1 in case u want to get a HDD , they r very cheap €0.58 .
all the best
No offense but you probably shouldn't be giving advice :P
The new Corsair CX series are nowhere near the quality of their other units. The SuperFlower Amazons are more efficient, quieter and better overall units.
The K does not stand for cooler, it means that the processor has an unlocked multiplier allowing for overclocking. The i5-2500k is particular is a fantastic overclocker.
USB wireless adaptors are a worse choice than PCI. The PCI will have more power available, produce much less load on the CPU. You also won't have to reinstall drivers every time you switch USB ports as is the case with a USB card. Some PCI-based cards also have the ability to offload processing data to the network card.0 -
I'm not sure if you're trolling, but I'm going to have to tear your post apart.
Firstly, the corsair isn't 80+, so you may not even be getting the same level of wattage you'd get with the SF Amazon.Power supply : they have a corsair 600W a bit cheaper than the amazon 550W . i'm not advising against the amazon , but i think the corsair has a better reputation
Bhuel, there's no broadband in Ireland above 100mb/s for consumers, so that's a tad useless. Probably won't be for another 5 yearsif you want to get more freedom of movement with your pc , try to add a 300 mbps usb wireless adaptor ,it costs 11 quid only the 1 u pciked is 150 mbps ,why usb !! to free a pci slot .
"K" does not stand for "Cooler", it means you can overclock it, genius. So yeah, it's all about the performance.from what i know if you are a dedicated gamer , then you should have a proper cpu cooler .in that case get an i5 2500 without the "K" .as K stands for intel cooler ,(nothing to do with the performance )
HDDs normally come with SATA cables, so there's no reason to buy them.asrock dont supply enough sata cables 2 with the extreme mobo add 1 in case u want to get a HDD , they r very cheap €0.58 .
all the best
EDIT: bloody hell, that's not cool, man..0 -
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I don't known an awful lot about building as I'm only a beginner but I have to say I even noticed a lot of that didn't add up, no offence. I appreciate you're trying to help but I think I'm very happy with my set up now as I have it listed. Thanks for filling in the bits and pieces for me guys 0
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No worries! To be honest im not worried about oc at the moment but its handy to know for the future. Im going to get it prebuilt for me too so hopefully that will solve any cable issues. I think the extra 20 to have it put together is fine by me because i dont want to spend so much money and end up busting something. oh btw i dont need extra cooling do i? Until i move onto overclocking anyway. 0
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Power supply : they have a corsair 600W a bit cheaper than the amazon 550W . i'm not advising against the amazon , but i think the corsair has a better reputation if you want to get more freedom of movement with your pc , try to add a 300 mbps usb wireless adaptor ,it costs 11 quid only the 1 u pciked is 150 mbps ,why usb !! to free a pci slot .
from what i know if you are a dedicated gamer , then you should have a proper cpu cooler .in that case get an i5 2500 without the "K" .as K stands for intel cooler ,(nothing to do with the performance )
asrock dont supply enough sata cables 2 with the extreme mobo add 1 in case u want to get a HDD , they r very cheap €0.58 .
all the best
Cheers dude, that gave me a good laugh.0 -
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No you won't need it. The 2500K will get mild overclocks with the stock cooler, so unless you want to go over 4Ghz you will be just fine without getting a cooler.oh btw i dont need extra cooling do i? Until i move onto overclocking anyway.
Although, if money isn't a concern I would get an aftermarket cooler since OC'ing with the 2500K is very very easy all you need is a cooler and the fingers to press the buttons. This cooler should do very wellhttp://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=25731&agid=669 0 -
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Sorry to bump this thread again but I'm assuming that the "Rechner - Zusammenbau" option is the one that I need to select if I want it pre-built. I'm assuming so because it costs 20 euros. Even with the language toggled to english this isnt translated 0
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The HDD will be a different drive to the SSD. So if you install windows to the SSD the SSD will be the C: drive. Your HDD will then be assigned the next drive letter, so
If you want to put something on the HDD, you move it from a folder in the C: drive to a folder in the drive, simple as that.
With some of the folders in your User folder you can change the actual location of where they store their data. So for the Music, Pictures, Document, Downloads folder and a few others, you can right click the folder, choose the Location tab and pick a folder on the HDD to store the contents of that folder. This is useful as most programs will use those folders as default for storing some data, so moving these folders to your HDD in this manner means that you can save space on your SSD without interrupting or messing with any applications.0 -
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Just getting back to this since my machine will be delivered this week.I'd reset (1)CMOS settings first, then just tweak them around to see that everything is right. Main thing to look out for is that your hard drives are sorted - set to (2)AHCI for the HDD/SSD you plan to install to. Just make sure that everything is there as well.
RAM is usually set to auto which is ok, so you can sort this and other bits out later.
Next (3)install windows. With Windows 7 this is very straightforward. In the install, you can select custom settings to partition hard drives. Just set the partition size that you plan to install to and you can set up the blank spaces as you please in Windows later. If you are installing to SSD, you'll probably want to use all the space.
Inside windows, get yourself your (4)basic drivers - chipset from motherboard website and graphics from AMD/nVidia. You'll have a disc with these on them but they're usually a bit out of date. Windows 7 is very good at finding drivers, but they won't have everything, so see if there's anything that's not working right and check your motherboard disc/website.
(5)Install directX as well.
Then it's pretty much your programs, including virus scanners. ninite.com will help you with a few if you don't mind default folders.
(6)BIOS update utilities vary between manufacturers. Often there's a flashing program within windows. Recently I've seen update utilities available when you boot up/in the CMOS menu. You put in a USB key with the BIOS version you want and you can save the one you have and update to a new one.
You have to assess if you really need to update the BIOS. It's a lot less risky than before, but I wouldn't be in a hurry to update unless something isn't working right or there's a big benefit. Always do a quick check that the one you have or are updating to doesn't break anything!
(1)
(2)No real decent site to look at for this but I just enter the Bios (Press F2 on Start-up) and have a look round untill I find it or this Vid if anyone forgot before installing windows
(3)Will it set-up the recovery partition itself? If someone wanted to install Linux aswell as Windows how much space would you leave for it? Or Can you just set that when you are actually installing Linux? Any other reason to set a partition?
(4)Do driver updates need to be done in a certain order? I installed all the drivers on a new computer years ago and it had to done in a strict order or does Windows 7 do away with all that?
(5)DirectX
(6)Can this be done anytime?
Any other tips?0 -
I'll cover 3) and 6)
For installing Linux, I would leave it until after you have installed Windows and have everything working correctly. Main reason is the bootloader. If you install Linux then Windows, Windows will overwrite the Linux bootloader with it's own(which is actually fine) but the problem is, when you boot up, the windows bootloader ignores Linux and just goes straight into Windows.
You can create the Linux partition when you are going to start installing it, you don't have to do it at the same time as your setting up Windows, but it might be just a good idea to put aside a few gigs for it while your at it.
As for how big you need it, well Linux can run on a potato so it really depends on what distro your going to be using. On the website for the distro it should give recommendations. I have Ubuntu 11.04 on a 12GB partition and not even had to consider if I was running out of space yet. Still I only have 4GB free, but when your not installing games and the like 4GB is lot's of space
6) you can do it when ever you like.
Like Mono said, don't do it unless you have a good reason too. Usually it won't make any difference, to you. So unless it's an update to be able to use Ivybridge, or to get rid of some bug your probably better off not bothering.0 -
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Can't flipping wait. I had to swap over the coolermaster 912 because its not back in stock til september. I'm opting for the Cooler Master 690 II LITE Midi-Tower instead! 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdp_L5IxaNI
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