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Should Cooker Isolator switch always be left ON??

  • 05-07-2011 08:35PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 139
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    Hello,

    Should I leave my cooker isolator switch ( big red switch on wall) on all the time - I've got into the habit of turning it off all the time , but notice that the cooker fan ( or something) runs after cooking, and wonder if turing it off after cooking may stop a full cooling going down after cooking.

    I know some people just turn cooker off and leave isolator on at all times and others , like me, turn it off.

    Which is better Sparks???

    Cheers


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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 M cebee
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    don't use the isolator for switching(control) of cooker anyhow

    i was taught to switch everything off when not in use-so that's what i do


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,909 meercat
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    my advice is to let the over run fan to keep going until it turns off automatically
    there will be different views on your cooker switch though
    personally i would leave it on all the time
    this will enable your timer(clock)to stay at the correct time
    my opinion would be that the cooker switch is an isolator to turn power off during emergency or when maintaining it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    Leave it on id say anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,909 meercat
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    3 quick replies here lads
    any more?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    All 3 at the same time as well.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 M cebee
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    and only 1 right answer:pac:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    Not at all, meercat got it right as well:pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,909 meercat
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    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Not at all, meecat got it right as well:pac:

    cheers robbie


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 M cebee
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    2011 will be along shortly to make it 2-2(not:pac:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,864 stimpson
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    I've always thought it was there if a repairman needed to work on the oven. If the oven is off it's drawing a tiny amount of current - why bother turning it off at the switch?

    My mother turns off everything with a light and unplugs whatever she can and it drives me mad.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    M cebee wrote: »
    2011 will be along shortly to make it 2-2(not:pac:)

    I was just thinking that myself. Maybe send him a PM bribe:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,909 meercat
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    3-1 i think


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    stimpson wrote: »
    I've always though it was there if a repairman needed to work on the oven. If the oven is off it's drawing a tiny amount of current - why bother turning it off at the switch?

    The only current the oven should draw when its off at its own controls is what the clock uses, which will be tiny. The clock will reset if switched off at the wall isolator.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,230 Solair
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    Ireland and the UK are the only countries I've come across in Europe where cooker isolator switches are used. So, the ovens are clearly designed to be safe just fully switched off.

    Just bear in mind that ovens are often very hot after use, and they rely on fans to keep the control systems cool.

    If you are switching off the isolator, listen to your oven and make sure that there are no cooling fans running before you cut the power.

    It's safe enough to cut the power if the oven is cool/cold.

    If it's still hot, it's generally a bad idea as there's a slight possibility that you could damage the controls due to residual heat.

    I always switch off the cooker and oven isolators before I go to bed. It's probably a better idea to do so. At least there's no risk of accidentally leaving the oven on!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 239 meemeep
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    I went through a phase of "turn everything off at source". So I started turning off the oven at the wall switch also - oven broke down in a couple of weeks and had to buy a new one - un-repairable. Co-incidence? maybe, but the cost on the electricity bill would have been miniscule compared with the cost of a new oven:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,230 Solair
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    meemeep wrote: »
    I went through a phase of "turn everything off at source". So I started turning off the oven at the wall switch also - oven broke down in a couple of weeks and had to buy a new one - un-repairable. Co-incidence? maybe, but the cost on the electricity bill would have been miniscule compared with the cost of a new oven:)

    It's possible you overheated it by turning it off when it was still in cooling mode. They can take anything from 30 mins to an hour to be fully cooled. There are thermostatically controlled fans, usually in the top of the oven that blow air out across the control circuits.

    Older ovens were a lot less fussy about being shut off as they didn't have any electronics on board at all.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    Solair wrote: »
    It's possible you overheated it by turning it off when it was still in cooling mode. They can take anything from 30 mins to an hour to be fully cooled. There are thermostatically controlled fans, usually in the top of the oven that blow air out across the control circuits.

    Older ovens were a lot less fussy about being shut off as they didn't have any electronics on board at all.

    Id say there is a good chance thats exactly what happened here.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,662 2011
    Mod ✭✭✭✭


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    M cebee wrote: »
    2011 will be along shortly to make it 2-2(not:pac:)

    I was just thinking that myself. Maybe send him a PM bribe:D
    LOL

    There are arguements to switch appliances off at the isolator when not in use. Personally I don't agree with them. I feel the isolator is for maintenance purposes only, so I leave them switched on.

    This also saves setting the time on the oven clock repeatedly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,429 .G.
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    stimpson wrote: »
    I've always thought it was there if a repairman needed to work on the oven. If the oven is off it's drawing a tiny amount of current - why bother turning it off at the switch?

    My mother turns off everything with a light and unplugs whatever she can and it drives me mad.


    I do the same,little bit of OCD on my part:D

    anything that draws current is costing me money so off it goes:)


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,839 slave1
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    Oven controls accessible to little people, switch therefore never left on unless in use


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,857 paddy147
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    I prefer to look at low energy usage bills.

    So,If its not needed or in use,then its allways switched off in my house.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    Having the oven switched off for the entire 2 month billing period, versus having it on at the wall isolator but never actually using the oven will cost around 95 cent every 2 months. There may be better places to make energy savings for a household.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,857 paddy147
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    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Having the oven switched off for the entire 2 month billing period, versus having it on at the wall isolator but never actually using the oven will cost around 95 cent every 2 months. There may be better places to make energy savings for a household.


    As a well known supermarket and their saying goes..................."every little helps".


    I was refering to anything that is electrical related in my house,not just an oven.If it doesnt need to be on,then its switched off.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,662 2011
    Mod ✭✭✭✭


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Having the oven switched off for the entire 2 month billing period, versus having it on at the wall isolator but never actually using the oven will cost around 95 cent every 2 months. There may be better places to make energy savings for a household.

    €0.95 is about 5 units
    Obviously this running cost will depend on the type of oven that you have.

    In my case I would be very surprised if my oven would cost €0.95 a year (oven not used, and isolator on). The only item being powered in my case is the clock.

    paddy147
    As a well known supermarket and their saying goes..................."every little helps".
    That could be argued, however constantly switching isolators can dramatically reduce their lifespan. What you save in electricity bills may well be offset by the cost of replacing cooker switches!

    In the greater scheme of things I don't any saving could possibly be noticed by anyone (with the exception of the odd anorak :D:D).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    2011 wrote: »
    €0.95 is about 5 units
    Obviously this running cost will depend on the type of oven that you have.

    In my case I would be very surprised if my oven would cost €0.95 a year (oven not used, and isolator on). The only item being powered in my case is the clock.

    The clocks use about 3.5 watts from measurements i have done on a couple of ovens with isolator on, and nothing but the clock going, thats about 5 units per bill. I was surprised it was that much myself. It could well be lower on other ovens. But its still very small. The hand manual button pressed in where you hear the click made little difference either.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    paddy147 wrote: »
    As a well known supermarket and their saying goes..................."every little helps".
    The predictable answer there:pac:. If you saved 45 cent a month shopping with them, would it be worth it?:D

    I was refering to anything that is electrical related in my house,not just an oven.If it doesnt need to be on,then its switched off.

    This thread is about ovens though. Any ovens i seen need their clock reset every time its switched on, and while this does not matter to many, it would indicate the ovens are designed to be left on. The isolator is then needed to isolate the appliance to allow safe maintenance etc.

    Id say 2011 is right as well, i did real actual tests of an oven or 2, and i was surprised they were using between 3 and 4 watts(17ma load), and its likely newer or different ovens use a fair bit less for their clocks.

    Maybe the 17ma is a fair bit out of phase 2011, and so its not registering on the meter:D:D. Or there was a bit of earth leakage..... I would of thought the same as yourself about using practically nothing, and this is likely the case on most ovens. Get your ameter out there and test, i put the probes of the meter into each terminal of the cooker MCB then switched MCB off the last time i did it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,426 DublinDilbert
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    Yea many of them clocks use a capacitor / resistor to drop the voltage, so it would be mostly out of phase.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 Bruthal
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    Yea many of them clocks use a capacitor / resistor to drop the voltage, so it would be mostly out of phase.

    Yes indeed, so in reality there is 17ma i measured alright, which in phase would be 4 watts, but probably less than 1 watt of power used and metered.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,662 2011
    Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Yea many of them clocks use a capacitor / resistor to drop the voltage, so it would be mostly out of phase.


    ....and the customer is charged for units which means they pay for kilowatt hours rather than KVA hours (which in practice is always the lesser of the two).


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,426 DublinDilbert
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    2011 wrote: »
    ....and the customer is charged for units which means they pay for kilowatt hours rather than KVA hours (which in practice is always the lesser of the two).

    Yep, until smart maters come in :-)


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