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Film users and home developers - resources, tips, advice, help, ...

  • 03-04-2011 7:01pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 304 ✭✭


    ... shoulder to cry on!

    Hi,

    Looking at the random pics thread, there's at least 10, maybe more, regular film users posting pics. Given a couple of the recent film related threads; one a TLR camera which digressed into C-41, and the other on the inverting/rotating techniques, I asked a mod if it was OK to start this thread.

    As it says in the title, I'm interested in collecting resources, tips, advice, help and any titbits of information boardies are willing to share about film (regardless of format) and home development.

    For myself, I split my camera use 60/40 between film and digital - both have their charms. Digital give the instant result, while the magic of my bath, the chemicals and drying in the shower cabinet always give a surprise.

    I know that the search function can be put to good use if you're after a specific topic, but I'm thinking about a more central place to keep useful information.

    Comments welcome!

    Aidan


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 304 ✭✭aidanic


    To kick off at least one aspect of this thread:

    Formats
    Mostly 35mm

    Black and White
    Typically Fuji Neopan and Kodak Tri-X

    Colour Negative
    Anything really - as long as it's cheap. Kodak from Aldi!

    Slides
    Last year, a lot of Kodachrome (not all successful), and most of the time Fuji Provia 100f. Sometimes Provia 400, sometimes Ektachrome.

    Tanks
    I have a couple of Paterson tanks, one 3x35mm, and two 2x35mm. No leaks!

    Developers
    Tetenal C41 Kit 1L
    Tetenal E6 Kit 5L
    Rodinal

    Scanner
    Very lucky to own a Nikon scanner.

    Sources for stuff
    macodirect mainly. phototec sometimes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 582 ✭✭✭thefizz


    I buy a lot of supplies from macodirect and get stuff for other people to split carriage costs and beat the minimum order amount, so if I can help you any time I'd be happy to.

    Peter


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,319 ✭✭✭sineadw


    Not sure exactly what you're after, so for the moment, given lack of braincells at present, I'll copy your format. When i'm told otherwise i@ll correct :D

    Formats
    Any and all, from 110 to 5x4 (I'm also digital. They're photographs. A big part of me couldn't give a feck *what* they come from..)

    Black and White
    Usually HP5 or FP4, with a spattering of Foma, Pan-F and IR films.
    I LOVE the versatility of HP5 in latitude and pushing and pulling. I'm not experienced enough to actually know much about it TBH though. Foma is cheap and gives *gorgeous* contrast. Pan-f is beautiful if the light is strong enough. Efke Aura is very very beautiful in the studio or strong light with a red filter (not IR shots) but is a bit of a bugger to meter and focus.

    Colour Negative
    Anything really - as long as it's cheap. Kodak from Aldi! << agreed! I haven't dabbled enough in C41 to comment properly. I *still* have rolls of portra and ektar that have to be used from a long time ago..

    Slides
    Sensia.. mmmmmm..
    I also have some colour IR that is apparently processed in E6. And some LF slide from the 60s that's E3 :cool:

    Tanks
    Leaky pattersons at home. A Jobo in college for LF stuff.

    Developers
    Usually r09 spezial. Also ilfosol 3. Moving up to ID11 this week hopefully (better for pushing than the fine grain developers I've been told?)

    Scanner
    Just the ones in college. And of course the gorgeous Hassie and kodak ones in Rua Red. I bought a scanner last year and the bastard didn't work past XP.

    Sources for stuff
    Gunns mostly. Mako direct through thefizz (IR stuff). Barkers in cork occasionally. The college for the more noxious chemicals I can't buy anywhere :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭artyeva


    i'm slowly getting back into developing my own stuff after years of forgetting it all after college, just b+w for now. i can get 35mm colour developed cheap locally, but just last night i found a C41 tutorial/thread on another forum that i *can* actually understand so i think before the end of the summer i'm gonna give it a go.is gunns the best place to buy a C41 kit, or would online-plus-postage be cheaper?as for fillums, when i can afford them i like ilford hp5 or neopan. otherwise any cheap asian thing on offer on e-bay. shanghai, lucky, fomapan, any expired crap that i find or get given. the cheaper and nastier, and older the better. i have a few rolls of expired kodachrome too, that i'm gonna have a go at developing in b+w chems, and i have 8 rolls of [cheap] expired velvia 120 on the way that i'm gonna try and x-process meself once i get chems sorted.

    i've a 2nd hand paterson system 4 tank at the mo that leaks. it didn't bother me when it was just a few drips, i could handle covering it with an old cloth that i didn't mind 'ending up smelling like a cross between a cat litter tray that hasn't been changed in a month and a crypt'* but it's getting worse every time i use it so i'm on the hunt for another one. are any one brand better than any other i wonder?

    *i read that on another forum and it did make me laugh.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭dazftw


    Do you guys rotate or invert the tank when you're developing!?

    I used to rotate and got horrible over exposed sides on the negatives... It's stopped since I started inverting.

    Also what gaps do ye leave in between agitation?

    I do it 10 seconds every minute.

    Network with your people: https://www.builtinireland.ie/



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 528 ✭✭✭Fozzydog3


    Cheap places for b+w film on the northside and to get developed ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 304 ✭✭aidanic


    artyeva wrote: »
    <snip> ... just last night i found a C41 tutorial/thread on another forum that i *can* actually understand so i think before the end of the summer i'm gonna give it a go.is gunns the best place to buy a C41 kit, or would online-plus-postage be cheaper?

    For me C41 is much the same as B+W. One extra round in the tanks with the stabiliser. It requires a higher temperature, but my experience is that the process takes some abuse with temperatures and timings. Others here (DQ/F) have made similar comments.

    B+W: 20C, Dev, Wash, Fix, Wash, Rinse aid
    C41: 38C, Dev, Wash, Fix, Wash, Stab, Wash, Rinse aid

    (and I rotate!)...

    I believe it's Gunnes where the others get the Fuji Hunt C41 kit. Much discussion here...

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056195823&page=2


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 304 ✭✭aidanic


    dazftw wrote: »
    Do you guys rotate or invert the tank when you're developing!?

    There's a whole thread given over to this religious discussion

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=70780311


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,624 ✭✭✭✭Fajitas!


    Formats
    35mm/120/4x5

    Black and White

    I can never find a B&W that I can stick to. I like Ilfords 1600 & 3200 offerings. I like Rollei's 25 offerings. In between, it can be everything and anything.

    Colour Negative

    For everyday walking around, Fuji 200 free film pushed a stop. For anything serious, Kodak Portra overexposed by half a stop. For mucking about, expired 800 speed Agfa.

    Slides

    Not Velvia - Anything but Velvia! Last few develops have been expired Kodak stock that came out remarkably nice!

    Tanks

    I have a few patterson ones I don't really use any more. I think I might have given a loan of them to someone ages ago though. I use Jobo ones atm in a Jobo processor.

    Developers

    Tetenal CE6 Kit 5L
    Fuji Hunt C41
    B&W... depends on what I'm shooting/what I want/what'll give me the best scan.

    Scanner

    The Flextight/Kodak scanners in RuaREd

    Sources for stuff

    Gunn's, Macodirect, 7Dayshop.


    Will hopefully be in a position to do developing runs for other people in the near future if anyone was interested.

    And of course the gorgeous Hassie and kodak ones in Rua Red
    Lies! It's not being used at all - Noone has booked it since I got it back up and running before Christmas!! Seriously, book time on it. It needs to be used. It's far better for every day use than the Flextight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,319 ✭✭✭sineadw


    Fajitas! wrote: »

    Lies! It's not being used at all - Noone has booked it since I got it back up and running before Christmas!! Seriously, book time on it. It needs to be used. It's far better for every day use than the Flextight.


    You have to book it? Eep.. I haven't used it in a while - the ones in college are handier for everyday stuff, but come June i'll be there a lot again.

    Oh, and I have a roll of colour IR that needs e6 dev. Will PM you now..


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,624 ✭✭✭✭Fajitas!


    Yep. And you have to get the holders from reception. I know the ones in college are handier, but the more use it gets, the more they know it's needed!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,319 ✭✭✭sineadw


    I didn't realise the kodak one had holders! I've just been lying it flat with no problems :rolleyes: Oops..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,624 ✭✭✭✭Fajitas!


    The holders make it easier to bulk scan. Bring some masking tape if your negs are rolled up, it'll save a lot of swearing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 288 ✭✭thedarkroom


    Formats
    35mm and 120
    Nikon FM2n and a second hand YashicaMat that I got on eBay just over a year ago

    Black and White
    Tend to stick mostly with HP5 and the odd trial with Fuji Neopan

    Colour Negative
    Never bother with it anymore. If I'm doing colour I go digital

    Slides
    I don't anymore

    Tanks
    Patterson

    Enlarger
    DeVere 203

    Developers
    Kodak D76 for negs and Ilford Multigrade for prints

    Scanner
    Nikon film scanner (Haven't used in ages)

    Sources for stuff
    Gunn's, Macodirect, 7Dayshop, Berminghams.

    On another note, I have a large collection of pdf files of manufacturer's data on films, papers, chemicals and other general info plus a few scanned books. If anyone wants a copy of it all on a disc then send me a pm of your address and I can post you a copy. Some of it would be several years old at this stage but still relevant.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,713 ✭✭✭DaireQuinlan


    Formats
    35mm/120 (though 120 isn't really a FORMAT per say)/8x10

    Black and White
    Tri-x. That is all. Though have to say Tri-x in diafine. That probably accounts for over half of my B&W. I'm continuously messing around with other films though. Ran a roll of efke aura a while back with mixed results, I have another roll waiting for dev that I shot 50/50 with a 25a and a blue filter. I want to see what the blue filter does for portraits, it's IR transparent, so with any luck there should be a blue component and an IR component to the image. we'll see ...

    Colour Negative
    Kodak kodak kodak. Ektar for the jazz, and 160/400 nc for everything else. Portra 800 for when I need that extra little bit of oomph. All home developed in Fuji Hunt chems.

    Slides
    Used to do quite a bit, until dev costs got that little bit too much. Still have to meet up with MB and grab a pile of 64t though for XPro.

    Tanks
    2 non-leaky JOBO tanks including a neat daylight loading one, one leaky paterson. <dalek> invert ! INVERT ! </dalek>

    Developers
    Fuji hunt c-41
    Kodak ra4 chems for experimentatoring and paper negs
    Diafine (for the tri-x)
    Rodinal
    DD-x for 90% of B&W dev.

    Scanner
    Nikon coolscan V

    Sources for stuff
    7dayshop/gunnes/ag-photographic/macodirect

    ag-photographic actually because I got stuff from them last year, guy who runs it is very responsive and sounds as a pound, and I'm waiting for them to get the new portra 400 in so I can put in a gigantic order for portra 160/400, ektar, tri-x, some more chems, and some ridiculously overpriced ilford direct positive paper in 8x10. That ought to do me for the year ...

    aidanic wrote: »
    ...

    (and I rotate!)...

    You see ? Having learned to my crushing dismay that all that talk of me moderating my own film photography forum was just a cruel prank, I can't ban you for that remark.

    ROTATOR :mad: Lets get him !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 582 ✭✭✭thefizz


    Formats
    120 (6x7)

    B&W Films
    Fuji Acros
    Kodak Tmax
    Efke IR 820C.

    Colour Negative
    Fuji Reala
    Kodak Portra NC & Ektar.

    Transparency Films
    Fuji Astia & Provia
    Ilford SFX (developed in Dr5 Chrome)

    Tanks
    Patterson

    Film Reels
    AP Compact

    B&W Film Developers
    Rodinal
    Rodinal Special

    B&W Papers
    Adox MCC
    Foma Fomatone

    Colour Paper
    Kodak Endura

    B&W Print Developer
    Agfa MC

    Toners
    Moersch Photochemie

    Colour Paper Developer
    Kodak RA4 Ektacolor

    Enlaregers
    Kaiser VPM7005 (B&W)
    Kaiser VCP7005 (Colour)

    Darkroom Timers & other gear
    RH Designs

    Sourses for stuff
    Gunn's & Macodirect.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,895 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Slides
    Used to do quite a bit, until dev costs got that little bit too much. Still have to meet up with MB and grab a pile of 64t though for XPro.
    do!
    like i said, i'm in the city centre every evening.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭artyeva


    aidanic wrote: »
    I believe it's Gunnes where the others get the Fuji Hunt C41 kit. Much discussion here...

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056195823&page=2

    cheers, will have a goo.
    Tanks
    2 non-leaky JOBO tanks including a neat daylight loading one, one leaky paterson. <dalek> invert ! INVERT ! </dalek>

    so should i look at finding a jobo to solve the leakiness then? i've only ever seen the single reel, or the 5 reel ones on e-bay, from sellers that only deliver to the UK. i'm looking for one that'll take 2x35 or 1x120, assuming they make that size.
    Fajitas! wrote: »
    Slides
    Not Velvia - Anything but Velvia!

    oh. what's so bad about velvia? have i bought a pig in a poke? :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,713 ✭✭✭DaireQuinlan


    artyeva wrote: »
    so should i look at finding a jobo to solve the leakiness then? i've only ever seen the single reel, or the 5 reel ones on e-bay, from sellers that only deliver to the UK. i'm looking for one that'll take 2x35 or 1x120, assuming they make that size.

    are they actual paterson tanks ? or those AP knockoffs ? I'm guessing here that not ALL paterson tanks leak all the time, no-one would actually buy them if that was the case ? The one I have came with a single reel that you can click to either 120 or 35mm, if it's clicked down to 35mm then you could fit another 35mm reel onto the spindle AFAIK.
    oh. what's so bad about velvia? have i bought a pig in a poke? :o

    Not at all. Velvia is a little too saturated for some peoples tastes though. I prefer a little more ... subtlety ... in my colour :-) Astia is a good slide film in that regard, or for negative film, the portra NC films. I have a couple of rolls of a limited release of a slide film called 'Fortia SP' which is just nuts. It's actually MORE saturated than velvia.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,030 ✭✭✭jpb1974


    are they actual paterson tanks ? or those AP knockoffs ?

    The AP tanks are better in many respects than the Paterson. I bought one recently and it's a lot less prone to leaks than the Paterson (of which I have two) which leak constantly.

    Worth noting that the AP film reels are way, way better than the Paterson equivalents.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 582 ✭✭✭thefizz


    I have both patterson and AP tanks and neither of them leak. I also have the new AP film reels (Compact version) and find them great, better than any other brand I have used.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,713 ✭✭✭DaireQuinlan


    jpb1974 wrote: »
    The AP tanks are better in many respects than the Paterson. I bought one recently and it's a lot less prone to leaks than the Paterson (of which I have two) which leak constantly.

    Worth noting that the AP film reels are way, way better than the Paterson equivalents.
    thefizz wrote: »
    I have both patterson and AP tanks and neither of them leak. I also have the new AP film reels (Compact version) and find them great, better than any other brand I have used.

    yeah maybe mine is just old or something, I've had it for a few years. It leaks through the threads though, not the top. Might be time to toss it and get a new one.

    Anyone here have any experience with stainless steel tanks ? I know of people who swear by them, much much easier to get the film onto the reel. I've never to date actually completely failed to get a film on, but I've come close to tossing the thing across the bathroom, turning on the lights and yelling "TAKE THAT" on more than one occasion. Though I'd still have to use the Jobo/AP tanks for C-41 ...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 582 ✭✭✭thefizz


    I hear a lot of folks complaining about the AP gear but I suspect they are using the older Classic tank and reel (which is still being made) but the newer Compact tanks and reels are the business.

    The Compact reel has a huge lip (if that describes it right :rolleyes:) which makes feeding the film in at the start so easy. Try one and you'll never go back to patterson.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭artyeva


    the tank i have is an actual paterson. it's a super system 4, with the big black lid. it leaks from the side, where the funnel bit clicks in, and at the top, where the snap on lid goes on. i've never stored it with the lid on, which i've read can 'stretch' it, but then again it was 2nd hand [albeit in very good nick, almost unused looking] when i bought it so the previous owner could have dropped it off a cliff or drilled microscopic holes in the thing for all i know. i also pop off the lid between chems to let any gas [realise yes, this is not the right term] that accumulates from agitation.

    there was an AP and a jessops both on e-bay the other day, i'll see if the AP one is still available. I'd prefer one where the lid [uppermost bit] screws on rather than pops on, i'm guessing that would stop ANY leakyness-ness. the jobo seem a wee bit expensive for my taste at the moment.
    Not at all. Velvia is a little too saturated for some peoples tastes though. I prefer a little more ... subtlety ... in my colour :-) Astia is a good slide film in that regard, or for negative film, the portra NC films. I have a couple of rolls of a limited release of a slide film called 'Fortia SP' which is just nuts. It's actually MORE saturated than velvia.

    phew. i like that oversaturated-ness, tis one of the reasons i decided to try slide in the first place. i'm going to have a go at x-processing some of them so i'm not expecting miracles. most of the fun for me is the process, actual results are a bonus :p do you have any shots from the Fortia SP yet? can i have a goo?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,713 ✭✭✭DaireQuinlan


    artyeva wrote: »
    phew. i like that oversaturated-ness, tis one of the reasons i decided to try slide in the first place. i'm going to have a go at x-processing some of them so i'm not expecting miracles. most of the fun for me is the process, actual results are a bonus :p do you have any shots from the Fortia SP yet? can i have a goo?

    If you do a tag search for 'fortia' on my flickr you'll find some. AH GOD THE GREENS ! MY EYES !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭artyeva


    If you do a tag search for 'fortia' on my flickr you'll find some. AH GOD THE GREENS ! MY EYES !

    *lush* :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 630 ✭✭✭Nisio


    A few people have put up what scanner they have, does anyone have one that gives good results for under 300 yoyos (for 35mm btw) ? I had a look at those dedicated nikon ones on eBay; may have to wait 10 or so years for the second hand price to drop!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,627 ✭✭✭uprising2


    aidanic wrote: »
    ... shoulder to cry on!

    Hi,

    Looking at the random pics thread, there's at least 10, maybe more, regular film users posting pics. Given a couple of the recent film related threads; one a TLR camera which digressed into C-41, and the other on the inverting/rotating techniques, I asked a mod if it was OK to start this thread.

    As it says in the title, I'm interested in collecting resources, tips, advice, help and any titbits of information boardies are willing to share about film (regardless of format) and home development.

    For myself, I split my camera use 60/40 between film and digital - both have their charms. Digital give the instant result, while the magic of my bath, the chemicals and drying in the shower cabinet always give a surprise.

    I know that the search function can be put to good use if you're after a specific topic, but I'm thinking about a more central place to keep useful information.

    Comments welcome!

    Aidan

    Why the shoulder to cry on?..

    It's about 12 years or so since I developed any film so bear that in mind.

    I almost exclusively developed and printed B+W, I tried C41 and E6 processing at home, had/have a jobo temperature bath, but both were not worth the hassle, my C41's had a cast, E6 I forget for a good reason:o.

    This site has a few tutorials and hints and tips:
    http://www.guidetofilmphotography.com/photography-film-processing.html

    http://www.guidetofilmphotography.com/dodging-burning-darkroom-techniques.html


    If you can ignore this fella's hair he explains a multiple exposure printing technique,



    More video's.

    If your film camera has a multiple exposure function you can block half/some of the lens, and invert it for the next exposure and have some fun before you even get to develop the negative, it's all so simple with digital , but a little more difficult and rewarding with film, here's a simple example:
    rgaynor2.jpg

    Always take notes, every time, film type, developer, time developed for, actual temp(my 20 degrees was always room temperature), these notes can save you a lot of time.
    It's trial and error, the zone system would be something I'd advise you to look into if you havent already, can be complicated but as you grow to know each film/developer combination results you can visualise your final print, although, 1 negative can produce hundreds of different prints depending on the processing used.

    Also experiment with slightly longer or shorter developing times, although this can be expensive and the results unknown until you get around to developing it.

    My favorites were agfapan 25 and panf 50 and microphen, and lots of errors, but I love the fineness, or if it took my fancy iso800 pushed a few stops gave good noticable grain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,030 ✭✭✭jpb1974


    A few people have put up what scanner they have, does anyone have one that gives good results for under 300 yoyos

    Check out the Epson V500. It handles 35mm and 120.

    £145 on Amazon.co.uk -

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Epson-Perfection-Scanner-6400dpi-Density/dp/B000VYYSEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1301992134&sr=8-1

    I've made very good 8x10 prints from my scans that I was pretty pleased with. All in all it's a good machine for the money.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 milo1973


    Formats
    135 and 120

    BW:
    Neopan (love this, very clean images)
    HP5+, (nice but a bit contrasty for my tastes, suits certain situations)
    Tri-X (this is a new adventure, just picked up a few rolls of 120 to stick through my Bronica, say 'Hi' of you see me dicking around on the street with it)

    Developers
    Rodinal
    Ilfosol 3

    Colour -ve
    I don't really like it much, but if I have to, Kodak Portra, Fuji Reala, or if I'm stuck Superia.

    Colour +ve
    Fuji Provia 100

    On colour: I develop everything and have a decent scanner, but haven't tried colour developing just yet as I'm not sure I can keep the temperatures on target. The quality of processing available for C41 and E6 is in my opinion highly variable but generally pretty poor, and expensive.

    Have a Durst enlarger that will be pressed in to service one a darkroom setup can be arranged. B&W only!

    For film, go here http://www.fujilab.co.uk/catalog/ or Ebay, there are a number of ebay shops selling bricks of Ilford, Kodak, Fuji

    Or just drop in to Gunns, they have everything.

    For equipment, well, there are loads of places, but by the time you pay the paddy tax, it gets expensive. Again, Gunns offers generally the best value for money in my view.

    Honestly, I don't really know what I'm doing, but its fun.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,713 ✭✭✭DaireQuinlan


    milo1973 wrote: »
    For film, go here http://www.fujilab.co.uk/catalog/ or Ebay, there are a number of ebay shops selling bricks of Ilford, Kodak, Fuji
    .

    Actually apropos of nothing, I would never even CONSIDER buying from fujilab. It's Fuji's own factory outlet, and yet 7dayshop SOMEHOW manages to sell practically everything considerably cheaper. I've never quite figured that out ...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 milo1973


    Actually apropos of nothing, I would never even CONSIDER buying from fujilab. It's Fuji's own factory outlet, and yet 7dayshop SOMEHOW manages to sell practically everything considerably cheaper. I've never quite figured that out ...

    Fair enough. 7Day it is then :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭artyeva


    jpb1974 wrote: »
    The AP tanks are better in many respects than the Paterson. I bought one recently and it's a lot less prone to leaks than the Paterson (of which I have two) which leak constantly.

    Worth noting that the AP film reels are way, way better than the Paterson equivalents.
    thefizz wrote: »
    I have both patterson and AP tanks and neither of them leak. I also have the new AP film reels (Compact version) and find them great, better than any other brand I have used.

    is this the one you guys have? this looks like a clone of it? i can see how it would be easier to load alright, specially 120.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 582 ✭✭✭thefizz


    Yes thats the one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 617 ✭✭✭telecinesk


    For what its worth:

    Camera Hasselblad & Kiev88 Ukraine copy. Nice to see them beside each other.

    Film: 120 , usually Fomapan100 or Ilford SFX processed in Fomatol because its easy ,cheap, and temp tolerant!

    E6 currently batch of Colour infrared under trial, but processing difficult where Im located, usually send abroad.

    Scanner : Epson V750 (works best with linux xSane), the enclosed software is v bloaty and too slow.

    Enlarger: Sold

    Gave up on 35mm years ago. Shame, but dont have space for everything or the time.

    Digital only in emergency or work related, avoid as much poss.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭artyeva


    so my spanking new shiny AP compact tank arrived, and so far i've put both 35 and 120 through it and yeah, the reels are waaaaaaay easier to load. much less faffing about. the tank itself hasn't leaked so much as a drop yet so i'm happy, though it is a bit slower in pouring out the chems. so thanks so much for the recommendation :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,319 ✭✭✭sineadw


    telecinesk wrote: »

    E6 currently batch of Colour infrared under trial, but processing difficult where Im located, usually send abroad.

    .

    You around dublin by any chance? I had some aerochrome developed in E6 today for 8 quid, no issue with infrared light in the tanks :) They take posted films too. PM me if you want details..


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