100w headlamp bulbs(H4)

I am sick of my standard h4 55w headlamp bulbs being shockingly dim on high beam.

So i bought 100w ones on ebay. I got white (5000k) ones: clicky

Any thoughts? will these melt my corolla?!

andyseadog

Deleted User wrote: »

I am sick of my standard h4 55w headlamp bulbs being shockingly dim on high beam.

So i bought 100w ones on ebay. I got white (5000k) ones: clicky

Any thoughts? will these melt my corolla?!

i'm now looking forward to being sick of having you blind me with your incorrect headlight bulbs.

60/55 watt bulbs are good and courteous enough for the rest of the driving public. why must you feel the need to blind us with your ignorance.

andyseadog

andyseadog wrote: »

i'm now looking forward to being sick of having you blind me with your incorrect headlight bulbs.

60/55 watt bulbs are good and courteous enough for the rest of the driving public. why must you feel the need to blind us with your ignorance.

I wondered who would flame first! Good job, i lol'd

But yeah, they are for track use only :cool:

Would a faulty alternator make all the lights in the car dimmer than they should be? Battery is new.

bazz26

High or full beams are normally 100w not 55w afaik. It's the dipped beams that are 55w.

dingding

You should put in a relay as there is a fair chance that you will burn out the switches.

Ardennes1944

bazz26 wrote: »

High or full beams are normally 100w not 55w afaik. It's the dipped beams that are 55w.

theyre both 55w. arent they?

CarMuppet

Not so sure about melting reflector and/or plastic housing. But do watch your wire diameter versus amps..

bofh666ie

Also if the car has cheap-ass mirrored plastic reflectors it'll burn those. H4 dual filament bulb are 55/60W btw.

dingding

dingding wrote: »

You should put in a relay as there is a fair chance that you will burn out the switches.

As far as i know the corolla already has a relay for the lights. Wont his protect the switch? No big deal if the relay blows can get another cheap.

The wire is good low gauge wire. Think it is 1.8/2 mm. Is that safe for carrying the higher current?

Matt Simis

Deleted User wrote: »

But yeah, they are for track use only :cool:

Would a faulty alternator make all the lights in the car dimmer than they should be? Battery is new.

You track at night....?
Obviously people will flame you, its not required and unsafe for you and everyone else on the road.
Its unlikely either your wiring, fuses or plastics will run twin 100w bulbs for any length of time. Might even cause a fire and invalidate your own insurance.
Get some of the +90% Halfords bulbs (still 55-65w) and then clean your headlamps and get an alignment done.

You can measure the voltage when the car is running to assess if the alternator is working correctly.

I would seriously consider doing an eye test too.

damo150

Will prob melt the plug on the back of the bulb after a bit of use.

Matt Simis

Matt Simis wrote: »

You track at night....?
Obviously people will flame you, its not required and unsafe for you and everyone else on the road.
Its unlikely either your wiring, fuses or plastics will run twin 100w bulbs for any length of time. Might even cause a fire and invalidate your own insurance.
Get some of the +90% Halfords bulbs (still 55-65w) and then clean your headlamps and get an alignment done.

You can measure the voltage when the car is running to assess if the alternator is working correctly.

I would seriously consider doing an eye test too.

All good advice! I might start with my eyes. Any idea how much the halford ones are? Can et the osram "nightbreaker" ones for 14, i think they claim +90% also.
Any ideas what i should use my 100w H4's for?

edit: Might just throw in a 40amp relay and chance it :pac:

si_guru

You are over loading the wiring. You should buy a fire extinguisher!

n97 mini

I had 100w/80w H4s in several cars. Never had any problems.

As the filament location correctly matches the reflector you won't blind oncoming drivers when you're on low beams. Unlike aftermarket HID kits.

NCT is also not a problem. They don't mind how bright your lights are as long as they're aimed and focussed correctly.

Anan1

Deleted User wrote: »

Any ideas what i should use my 100w H4's for?

Throw them in the bin. They look like cheap rubbish and they're painted blue - why would anyone looking for more light buy painted bulbs? How are your reflectors & lenses? Defects here will result in dim lights. Other than that, i'd recommend Philips Xtreme power bulbs - they're bright, they're good quality, and they won't make you look like a spotty 17-year-old.

Anan1

Anan1 wrote: »

Throw them in the bin. They look like cheap rubbish and they're painted blue - why would anyone looking for more light buy painted bulbs? How are your reflectors & lenses? Defects here will result in dim lights. Other than that, i'd recommend Philips Xtreme power bulbs - they're bright, they're good quality, and they won't make you look like a spotty 17-year-old.

The blue just filters out some of the yellow light spectrum on the ones i got. The light produced is just slightly whiter than standard. Just like the osram nightbreaker bulbs which also use a similiar blue filter to achieve "10% whiter light". Thanks for the advice.

I have decided i am going to use superbright 100+ LED bulbs instead. put out 300lumins, is that alot? Discuss/flame on!

12 element

Deleted User wrote: »

I wondered who would flame first! Good job, i lol'd

But yeah, they are for track use only :cool:

Would a faulty alternator make all the lights in the car dimmer than they should be? Battery is new.

You've done 3500miles in your track car?
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=71377840&postcount=15

n97 mini

Deleted User wrote: »

I have decided i am going to use superbright 100+ LED bulbs instead. put out 300lumins, is that alot? Discuss/flame on!

A 50 watt halogen bulb puts out roughly 1000 lumens. If they really are putting out 300 lumens, which is doubtful, they're equivalent to about a 15 watt bulb. Would you put 15 watt bulbs in your headlamps?

Anan1 wrote:

they're painted blue

This raises the colour temperature to a colour closer to white, and is quite common. It will filter out a slight amount of light, but it's not necessarily light that's making any difference.

andyseadog

personally speaking, the only non ignorant way to do this is to buy the likes of philips bluevisions or osram nightbreakers that are a proven quality bulb and yet don't cause an issue for other motorists. they are a little more expensive but you get what you pay for.

after that, i'd clean my headlamp lenses and get my lights focused. then if you still cant see, as was said, i'd book in for an eye test.

all this messing around with chinese produced ebay tat, you would have bought better quality in your local motor factors for a similar price and been done with this ages ago.

andyseadog

andyseadog wrote: »

personally speaking, the only non ignorant way to do this is to buy the likes of philips bluevisions or osram nightbreakers that are a proven quality bulb and yet don't cause an issue for other motorists. they are a little more expensive but you get what you pay for.

after that, i'd clean my headlamp lenses and get my lights focused. then if you still cant see, as was said, i'd book in for an eye test.

all this messing around with chinese produced ebay tat, you would have bought better quality in your local motor factors for a similar price and been done with this ages ago.

But look at all i have learned from this thread (even if i did approach it arseways).
Have bought some nightbreakers for 15. Im out €3 for the ebay ones...il put it down to experience!

E39MSport

Nightbreakers seem to have a good following too. Haven't tried them myself.

Let us know your impressions please.

dougie-lampkin

Having used a 55/60W version of those blue bulbs for ages, go for it OP! They had a much better output than the bulbs I replaced, especially on dipped beam. On full beam they were about the same, maybe because having a pure white light is disorientating (that's why 6000k+ HIDs are said to be dangerous). And they were cheaper than a replacement set of bog standard H4s in Halfrauds

100W won't melt any switches, your car has 30 amp relays on dipped and full beam. A pair of 100W bulbs puts out less than 17 A, so not even close to hurting the relay. Check your fuse rating on those lines. If the fuse is rated for higher than 17 A, then the wiring is also capable of supplying 17 A. What you might need to check however is the earth wire from the headlight plug. This may not be rated for the 34 A required if you have both filaments lighting.

And don't mind the naysayers on boards who'll have you believe that 100 W bulbs make you a murderer. Many people on the roads run 100 W bulbs, but nobody can tell the difference so they don't complain. So long as the bulb is intended for the housing (which they are), you could run 1,000,000 W bulbs and wouldn't be blinding anyone. The problem arises when people use HID bulbs in halogen reflectors. HID burners do not have the same dispersion as halogen bulbs, due to the spark that causes the light. This means the burner output does not match the reflector, scattering light everywhere and giving the horrible glare and terrible light dispersion on the road. This has nothing to do with the wattage of the bulb.

For even better light output, you could consider the HIDs designed for reflector housings. They're designated D*R to show they're meant for reflector housings. They're also fairly expensive, especially for H4 applications

Matt Simis

dougie-lampkin wrote: »

100W won't melt any switches, your car has 30 amp relays on dipped and full beam. A pair of 100W bulbs puts out less than 17 A, so not even close to hurting the relay. Check your fuse rating on those lines. If the fuse is rated for higher than 17 A, then the wiring is also capable of supplying 17 A.

Says who? The Fuse maybe (or maybe not) rated higher for peak surges but the wiring would not be made to consistently deliver nearly 100% greater ampage. I have seen melted wiring myself on cars headlamps, it definitely happens.

Its a lot more likely that the headlights themselves will melt faster.

dougie-lampkin

Matt Simis wrote: »

Says who? The Fuse maybe (or maybe not) rated higher for peak surges but the wiring would not be made to consistently deliver nearly 100% greater ampage. I have seen melted wiring myself on cars headlamps, it definitely happens.

Its a lot more likely that the headlights themselves will melt faster.

Because the idea of a fuse is to protect the wiring. It should always be rated lower than the wiring itself. I'd imagine Toyota know this, being a multi-billion car company and all.

Matt Simis

dougie-lampkin wrote: »

Because the idea of a fuse is to protect the wiring. It should always be rated lower than the wiring itself. I'd imagine Toyota know this, being a multi-billion car company and all.

Surge vs consistant usage? Wiring also exposed to engine heat, shielded but not designed to carry 100% more amps internally (which exponentially increases heat/load) etc etc.

You are making a lot of assumptions. What Toyota "know" is they made the wiring to handle 65w bulbs with maybe 10% leeway.

n97 mini

dougie-lampkin wrote: »

Because the idea of a fuse is to protect the wiring. It should always be rated lower than the wiring itself. I'd imagine Toyota know this, being a multi-billion car company and all.

Excellent point. The fuse is designed to melt first. If it doesn't melt the wiring shouldn't melt. The earth wire is worth checking tho, like you said.

b318isp

dougie-lampkin wrote: »

So long as the bulb is intended for the housing (which they are), you could run 1,000,000 W bulbs and wouldn't be blinding anyone.

Facepalm, although I do agree about your HID comments.

dougie-lampkin

dougie-lampkin wrote: »

100W won't melt any switches, your car has 30 amp relays on dipped and full beam. A pair of 100W bulbs puts out less than 17 A, so not even close to hurting the relay. Check your fuse rating on those lines. If the fuse is rated for higher than 17 A, then the wiring is also capable of supplying 17 A.

Had a look. The high beam has individual fuses for each side and also individual fuses for low beams on each side.
The high beam fuses are 15amp each side and the low beam are 10 amp each side.

n97 mini

Deleted User wrote: »

Had a look. The high beam has individual fuses for each side and also individual fuses for low beams on each side.
The high beam fuses are 15amp each side and the low beam are 10 amp each side.

Ohms law, your high beam fuses are good for 150w bulbs. Low beam for 120w.

b318isp

n97 mini wrote: »

Ohms law, your high beam fuses are good for 150w bulbs. Low beam for 120w.

Small point: 15Amps @ 12volts = 180watts nominally

And Ohm's law requires resistance.

Also note that there may be less voltage than nominal AND a brief current peak as the filament lights.

neosmaster

n97 mini wrote: »

I had 100w/80w H4s in several cars. Never had any problems.

As the filament location correctly matches the reflector you won't blind oncoming drivers when you're on low beams. Unlike aftermarket HID kits.

NCT is also not a problem. They don't mind how bright your lights are as long as they're aimed and focussed correctly.

Same as...As long as you keep your headlights aligned you wont blind any oncoming traffic...I've never been flashed by oncoming traffic thinking I'm driving on fulls

dougie-lampkin

Matt Simis wrote: »

Surge vs consistant usage? Wiring also exposed to engine heat, shielded but not designed to carry 100% more amps internally (which exponentially increases heat/load) etc etc.

You are making a lot of assumptions. What Toyota "know" is they made the wiring to handle 65w bulbs with maybe 10% leeway.

What about surge vs consistent usage? Aside from there being no voltage spikes with halogen bulbs (apart from the resistance changing with heat, but it's not a spike or a surge), wiring will stand up to surges no problem. A surge of several ms will not increase wire temperature to the 100's of °C required to melt the plastic shielding. Otherwise the horn in your car wouldn't work due to the massive voltage spikes caused by the inductor in the horn.

Bottom line is, fuses *must* be rated lower than the wiring. That's why they're there, so the fuse safely melts instead of the loom causing a car fire. That's why I said to check the fuse. If they're rated for more than 16.7 A (assuming it's one fuse for dipped, one for high, if it's four fuses total then each should be rated for at least 8.3 A), then it follows that the wiring is also safe to take 16.7 A. No assumptions, apart from assuming that Toyota didn't allow an untrained monkey to design the loom for the 'Rolla.

EDIT: Just read the OP's post about the fuse sizes, as I suspected, Toyota have allowed over a 200% safety margin over the original bulbs with fuse and wiring size. Your 10% leeway claim is looking a bit off there.

Wiring is also not exposed to engine heat unless you leave your loom draped across the exhaust manifold. The ambient temperature radiated by the engine is no worse than leaving your wiring out in direct sunlight on a hot day. And exposed sections of the loom are covered in plastic tubing to further insulate it.

b318isp wrote: »

Facepalm, although I do agree about your HID comments.

Why facepalm? It's true. Increasing the brightness of a bulb doesn't alter its position in the focal point of the reflector, so long as the bulb housing hasn't changed position. So long as the bulb tip is shielded from the front to prevent it blinding people, you could theoretically have any brightness of bulb in a reflector housing. The problem is when Chinese crap is used which hasn't been properly designed, and doesn't line up 100% with the reflector bowl's focal point. This is where the bulb's brightness comes into play, the brighter it is, the worse the scatter effect. It's not that HIDs simply don't work with standard reflectors, they do. But only when you get quality name-brand ones that have had millions spent on R&D.

bryaner

n97 mini wrote: »

Excellent point. The fuse is designed to melt first. If it doesn't melt the wiring shouldn't melt. The earth wire is worth checking tho, like you said.

Suffering Jaysus..:rolleyes:

Matt Simis

Perhaps I worded it poorly. What I have seen and replaced personally is the wiring harness in my E31 BMW. Its true the metal in the wires was intact, but the engine heat (vastly more than direct sunlight.. not sure what you mean by that) combined with enclosed heatlight heat combined with age meant the plastic on the wiring itself degraded. The fuses never blew and are no doubt rated something crazy, but it was irrelevant as the plastic itself dried and cracked with heat. And this isnt e31 specific, Ive seen early signs of plastic cracking in other cars.

Now in my case that was with stock bulbs.. this effect could only be accelerated with near 100% over rated bulbs, which not only consume more power through the lines, but also generate more heat, especially at the point where the wiring converges, the headlamp.*


However, flying in the face of everything I just wrote (:) ) , I did find this article, while not car specific, found that high wattage bulbs did not always generate more heat than low wattage bulbs for a number of reasons:
http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/html/watts-heat-lights-lamp-heat-output.html

Now Im intrigued if these 100w bulbs can output appreciably more light while not melting plastics.. Its a pity they dont do only slightly uprated bulbs (ie 80w).

b318isp

dougie-lampkin wrote: »

Why facepalm? It's true. Increasing the brightness of a bulb doesn't alter its position in the focal point of the reflector, so long as the bulb housing hasn't changed position. So long as the bulb tip is shielded from the front to prevent it blinding people, you could theoretically have any brightness of bulb in a reflector housing.

So you can't see headlight outside its mask or cut off? You can't see headlights from a distance, well after their beam has reached the ground? You can't see a torch unless it is pointing its beam towards you?

My dipped headlights point downwards, but I can still see them on while standing up. I'd imagine if I put in 1MW bulbs that this would only seem brighter.

I don't know what %age of light gets scattered from a headlight, but increasing the power of the lamp will also increase the amount of scattered or indirect light. Then add in reflections from a wet road surface...

bryaner

dougie-lampkin wrote: »

What about surge vs consistent usage? Aside from there being no voltage spikes with halogen bulbs (apart from the resistance changing with heat, but it's not a spike or a surge), wiring will stand up to surges no problem. A surge of several ms will not increase wire temperature to the 100's of °C required to melt the plastic shielding. Otherwise the horn in your car wouldn't work due to the massive voltage spikes caused by the inductor in the horn.

Bottom line is, fuses *must* be rated lower than the wiring. That's why they're there, so the fuse safely melts instead of the loom causing a car fire. That's why I said to check the fuse. If they're rated for more than 16.7 A (assuming it's one fuse for dipped, one for high, if it's four fuses total then each should be rated for at least 8.3 A), then it follows that the wiring is also safe to take 16.7 A. No assumptions, apart from assuming that Toyota didn't allow an untrained monkey to design the loom for the 'Rolla.

EDIT: Just read the OP's post about the fuse sizes, as I suspected, Toyota have allowed over a 200% safety margin over the original bulbs with fuse and wiring size. Your 10% leeway claim is looking a bit off there.

Wiring is also not exposed to engine heat unless you leave your loom draped across the exhaust manifold. The ambient temperature radiated by the engine is no worse than leaving your wiring out in direct sunlight on a hot day. And exposed sections of the loom are covered in plastic tubing to further insulate it.



Why facepalm? It's true. Increasing the brightness of a bulb doesn't alter its position in the focal point of the reflector, so long as the bulb housing hasn't changed position. So long as the bulb tip is shielded from the front to prevent it blinding people, you could theoretically have any brightness of bulb in a reflector housing. The problem is when Chinese crap is used which hasn't been properly designed, and doesn't line up 100% with the reflector bowl's focal point. This is where the bulb's brightness comes into play, the brighter it is, the worse the scatter effect. It's not that HIDs simply don't work with standard reflectors, they do. But only when you get quality name-brand ones that have had millions spent on R&D.

So why are there electrical house fires even though mcb's are fitted? Answer constant low overloading of the specific circuit leading to melting of wires and fusion..

bryaner

Matt Simis wrote: »

Perhaps I worded it poorly. What I have seen and replaced personally is the wiring harness in my E31 BMW. Its true the metal in the wires was intact, but the engine heat (vastly more than direct sunlight.. not sure what you mean by that) combined with enclosed heatlight heat combined with age meant the plastic on the wiring itself degraded. The fuses never blew and are no doubt rated something crazy, but it was irrelevant as the plastic itself dried and cracked with heat. And this isnt e31 specific, Ive seen early signs of plastic cracking in other cars.

Now in my case that was with stock bulbs.. this effect could only be accelerated with near 100% over rated bulbs, which not only consume more power through the lines, but also generate more heat, especially at the point where the wiring converges, the headlamp.*


However, flying in the face of everything I just wrote (:) ) , I did find this article, while not car specific, found that high wattage bulbs did not always generate more heat than low wattage bulbs for a number of reasons:
http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/html/watts-heat-lights-lamp-heat-output.html

Now Im intrigued if these 100w bulbs can output appreciably more light while not melting plastics.. Its a pity they dont do only slightly uprated bulbs (ie 80w).

Don't even question yourself man, I've seen many melted plugs and sundries over the years over silly bulbs..

n97 mini

b318isp wrote: »

Small point: 15Amps @ 12volts = 180watts nominally

Oops, my bad. Did the maths off the top of my head whilst watching TV.

n97 mini

bryaner wrote: »

Suffering Jaysus..:rolleyes:

That's a technical term, yeah?

b318isp

bryaner wrote: »

So why are there electrical house fires even though mcb's are fitted? Answer constant low overloading of the specific circuit leading to melting of wires and fusion..

Agreed. MCBs are on the supply side and will not protect a fault at rating lower than the MCB. A 20A MCB may not trip for a partial short circuit on a lighting circuit, for example.

n97 mini

Matt Simis wrote: »

Perhaps I worded it poorly. What I have seen and replaced personally is the wiring harness in my E31 BMW.

Matt, maybe BMW didn't get something quite right? I have run 100/80's in three cars (all Japanese) and have had not melted anything.

n97 mini

Matt Simis wrote: »

Its a pity they dont do only slightly uprated bulbs (ie 80w).

They do. You just won't find them in Halfords. I'm using 80w HB4's at the moment.

bryaner

n97 mini wrote: »

Matt, maybe BMW didn't get something quite right? I have run 100/80's in three cars (all Japanese) and have had not melted anything.

For how long?

I'd guess not much longer than a year or so.

n97 mini

bryaner wrote: »

For how long?

I'd guess not much longer than a year or so.

Long enough to prove that they were not going to be a problem, at all, ever.

bryaner

n97 mini wrote: »

Long enough to prove that they were not going to be a problem, at all, ever.

Just what I thought..;)

Matt Simis

n97 mini wrote: »

Matt, maybe BMW didn't get something quite right? I have run 100/80's in three cars (all Japanese) and have had not melted anything.

Well, Im talking about a 17year old car here and with stock bulbs, so I dunno if you could say its normal for plastic to badly degrade or not over such periods (and with normal load bulbs).

n97 mini

Matt Simis wrote: »

Well, Im talking about a 17year old car here and with stock bulbs, so I dunno if you could say its normal for plastic to badly degrade or not over such periods (and with normal load bulbs).

Just FYI I have run 100/80s for an average of 3 years per car. First car was 14 years old (a 1985!), second was 4 years old and third was also 4 years old.

80w HB4's in the current car are there 2 years or so. Car is a 2004.

dougie-lampkin

Matt Simis wrote: »

Perhaps I worded it poorly. What I have seen and replaced personally is the wiring harness in my E31 BMW. Its true the metal in the wires was intact, but the engine heat (vastly more than direct sunlight.. not sure what you mean by that) combined with enclosed heatlight heat combined with age meant the plastic on the wiring itself degraded. The fuses never blew and are no doubt rated something crazy, but it was irrelevant as the plastic itself dried and cracked with heat. And this isnt e31 specific, Ive seen early signs of plastic cracking in other cars.

Now in my case that was with stock bulbs.. this effect could only be accelerated with near 100% over rated bulbs, which not only consume more power through the lines, but also generate more heat, especially at the point where the wiring converges, the headlamp.*


However, flying in the face of everything I just wrote (:) ) , I did find this article, while not car specific, found that high wattage bulbs did not always generate more heat than low wattage bulbs for a number of reasons:
http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/html/watts-heat-lights-lamp-heat-output.html

Now Im intrigued if these 100w bulbs can output appreciably more light while not melting plastics.. Its a pity they dont do only slightly uprated bulbs (ie 80w).

Looms do of course degrade after many years of use, some of the exposed parts of my Mini's loom are looking a bit tatty and the copper inside is corroded in places. I've upgraded all the circuits where I've added any extra load (most of them then :pac:), and the headlights are now running off two dedicated relays straight off the battery. Standard they were running through the switch in the cabin :eek:

My point about sunlight is, the ambient temperature in the engine bay isn't going to be much more than what you'd be exposed to in direct sunlight on a hot day. You can stick your hand into the engine bay after a long drive so long as you don't touch the engine itself, it doesn't get hot enough to worry the loom.

My point was that the wiring on a new car is well up to the task of 100W headlights, as you can see by Toyota's safety margin on the wiring. However, I'd be worried about the heat dissipation caused by a hotter bulb itself on a modern car for sure. I'm lucky in that my lenses are glass, and the reflector bowl is air cooled from behind, modern cars don't have these design flaws :pac:

b318isp wrote: »

So you can't see headlight outside its mask or cut off? You can't see headlights from a distance, well after their beam has reached the ground? You can't see a torch unless it is pointing its beam towards you?

My dipped headlights point downwards, but I can still see them on while standing up. I'd imagine if I put in 1MW bulbs that this would only seem brighter.

I don't know what %age of light gets scattered from a headlight, but increasing the power of the lamp will also increase the amount of scattered or indirect light. Then add in reflections from a wet road surface...

Have you ever used one of those massive power torches, the 100 million candle power ones or whatever they are. They can project a beam of light several miles away, as a tightly focused circle. If you stand in the beam and look at the reflector, it'd burn the retinas out of your face, yet you can look at them indirectly not a bother. Indirect light is not focused light. And a wet road surface is not the same as a reflector, unless you drive on glass.

1 MW was clearly an exaggeration, it's theoretical. Ideally you'd use a projector housing for anything that powerful, to totally eliminate light scatter. Still totally "theoretically" possible in a reflector housing however, if you could power it and dissipate the heat produced. Besides, wattage does not equal light output. New HIDs are 35W and have vastly better output than old 55/60W halogens.

bryaner wrote: »

So why are there electrical house fires even though mcb's are fitted? Answer constant low overloading of the specific circuit leading to melting of wires and fusion..

12V DC is a lot different to 240V AC. It's far easier to have something go wrong when you have 240 volts of AC I'd imagine.

Then again I know feck all about house electrics, and my auto electrics knowledge is based on my own experience and what I've read. Haven't damaged anything yet after several years of quite drastically modifying the electrics, so can't be too far wrong

n97 mini

bryaner wrote: »

Just what I thought..;)

You seem to be quite opinionated on the subject. Tell us what you experience of running 100w bulbs in your car is?

bryaner

n97 mini wrote: »

You seem to be quite opinionated on the subject. Tell us what you experience of running 100w bulbs in your car is?

I've seen plenty of damage over the years while working alongside an auto electrician.

n97 mini

bryaner wrote: »

I've seen plenty of damage over the years while working alongside an auto electrician.

Ok, good man.